Quick help needed.

[selle92]

I know for a fact I don't have a wrench/socket large enough, and I'm at work so I can't check the size.

what size nut holds on the prop. Would like to stop on my way home and pick up a socket to remove my prop and want to avoid a 2nd trip tonight.

any help?

[Juice75]

I'm not sure if it varies much, but the one on my Comp is 1 1/16", or a 27mm will work too.

[selle92]

Thanks. That sounds about right. Just wasn't sure.
If all fails, will see if they have a larger size socket kit that has a bunch. I don't own anything over 1inch...

Thanks for the info!.

have you removed your prop? I've hear heat and a puller, then my neighbor who has a comp said I probably could get it off with a light bang and no puller.

Going that route first, puller later if it won't budge.

Does it matter if it's in gear to help the prop rotating? Mabye a peice of 2x4 or something between the back hull and prop to stop it from spinning?

Don't even know where to begin.

[Juice75]

Well, you're on the right track. And if you don't want to buy a whole socket set, it looks like the only two variations of prop nut sizes are 1 1/16 and 1 1/4.

I've taken my prop off a couple of times. I had to use a puller, heat and a hammer to get the original prop off. That sucker was stuck! But my new prop comes off with a couple of taps from a rubber mallet. Here's a couple of things to try.

1. Prop nut removal - like you said, wedge a 2x4 or 4x4 between the prop and the hull to keep it from rotating. Don't rely on the transmission!!! You could end up doing more harm than good.

2. Prop removal - Try putting a piece of wood against the back of the prop, and tap all around the edges with a hammer. Make sure you don't just pound on one side, as you might wedge the prop on there. If it doesn't come off, there is a prop key (thin rectangle piece of metal) that fits into the prop/shaft. Use a small punch or screwdriver, and tap the key up towards the front of the boat. Then repeat the hammer and wood process. You can also use a torch to heat up the prop if all else fails.

3. As a last resort, use a prop puller. Or you could take it to a shop and have them do it. Most shops will charge you $10-25 to remove the prop. That's if they aren't too busy to even talk to you.

Good luck, and I hope some of this helps.

[selle92]

that helped a ton. Figured that was basically what I was thinking of doing. Didn't think about the key/screwdriver thing, but probably would have tried that once I got around to it. Turns out was stuck at work and didn't get there last night anyways. Will give it a go today, however, it sucks cause its finally a great day to be on the lake, and I'm going to be out of commision for a bit. Oh well, better to do it now that tweak the boat.

Thanks!

[Mike]

Our group just automatically uses a prop puller. Works like a charm.

The notion of hammering away or heating seems risky compared to using a purpose built tool.

Mike

[selle92]

THanks Mike.

I checked around to see if someone on the lake that ski's had one to use. Kinda a cheap b@stard, and didn't want to buy one.

Tried the light hammering route, and it didn't move. Didn't want to crack to hard, so I bought a cheapy harmonic puller the next day. Worked like a charm. Guess it's a good investment since no one on the lake has one and I have it for the "just in case" next time.

Btw. 1 1/16 is the correct size of the end nut (just an FYI for others).

PS. Get the Deep Socket if buying... the smaller one didn't reach the nut with the socket wrench attached.

Out of commission til Tues. :(

[selle92]

Hey Juice, or anyone else.

so, Should have the prop back today or tomorrow.

Figured install back on will be cake, but do you know if there is a torque recommendation for putting the nut back on? I don't want to overdo it, but figured with the nut I have (self locking rubber insert thing), it should be pretty snug, but not overly tight. Just didn't know if there was a torque spec for it.

Suppose it shouldn't matter too much. I'm pretty anal and will check it every few times out anyways, plus the codder pin will be there for backup.

[Juice75]

Hey Selle92,

I don't know what the torque spec is, but I do have one tip. Without the key in the keyway, slide the prop all the way on the drive shaft, and mark the shaft (on the backside) where the prop stops. Then, take the prop off and reinstall with the key in the keyway. Make sure the prop slides all the way back up to the mark. This ensures that the prop is seated on the shaft, and not on the key.

Aside from that, get the nut good and snug, throw in a cotter pin, and you'll be good to go!

[selle92]

THanks. Exactly what I did last night. I did a google search on prop mounting and found a nice little site with tips: one being-marking it first helps without the key in. However, I have a nice little lake scum line that worked just as well and was already on there. Clean underneathe where I took it off, and dirty where the prop should stop. Got her on and snugged up good and popped the cotterpin in. Went in to change quick and it started to rain. Freaking weather!- will have to get out tonight to see the difference.