saltare fuses?

[wotan2525]

Finally got my 454 back togther.... installed new lifters and pushrods, may need to tear back down and do the cams. I also installed new fuel lines and filters. I was just cranking it for a few minutes trying to get it to start -- I figure the new filter needs to be pressurized and the fuel lines filled -- I probably cranked it for about 90 seconds, then i stopped, went and adjusted the timing slightly, then went back only to find the whole boat was electrically dead. No gauges, no lights, nothing turns on when i turn the key. The master breaker on the back of the engine isn't tripped, but there must be more fuses somewhere, right?

Help!

Rob

[Salty87]

hey wotan,

sounds like that boat just won't cooperate, i'm sure you'll get it a straightened out.

nothing works....stereo, lights, amp meter? did you try the main breaker above the tranny?

the neutral switch wouldn't prevent everything from turning on, i'm thinking your key switch is acting up.

any chance you unhooked something when you adjusted the timing?

[DKJBama92Mariah]

Hey Rob,

I cant think of anything else that would cause it besides the ignition switch that Salty mentioned. I dont know about your boat, but I know mine has a circuit breaker directly above the ignition switch that pops out when it trips. If you can, crawl under the dash, take a multimeter, and see if you are getting 12v to the ignition switch. If you are, then turn the key to "run" and see if you are getting 12v on the switch output that powers everything. Here is a link to a site listing all the different wiring colors and what they go to. These colors are pretty much standard for most any boat. http://www.brokeboats.com/biacolors.html
If you arent getting any voltage on the purple wire with the key in the run position, but you have power going into the switch, you know the switch is fried. This is a possibility. The current running through the switch to activate the starter solenoid for such a long period of time could have melted something in the switch.

If you have power going into and out of the switch, then just start working your way from the switch to the components that are powered by it, testing the voltage at every component along the way. If there is not power at the switch, then just go the other way and test the voltage at every component between the switch and the battery. There is a fault somewhere, it may just take some work to find it.

One thing you should know though. You should not operate the starter continuously for more than 30 seconds, and your should give it a 2 minute break to cool between starting attempts. Otherwise you run the risk of destroying your starter.

If you don't have a multimeter, i HIGHLY recommend the Fluke 73-III. It is a little pricey, but it will be the last one you EVER buy. I've had ones made by Sperry and Sears and the were pieces of crap. I finally broke down and spend some money on a quality meter. Sears has them for $134.99. That's about the best price I found anywhere on a new one. Here is a link to the Fluke on the sears website. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=03 481337000

Post back with your results and let us know what you find out.

Good luck and happy testing.

Cheers,
DKJ