Floors off...but now what??

[cavilry]

I will try to get some photos to help with this, but I am looking for some advice.

I just pulled the floor out of my 1990 Supra Sunsport as there were a few soft spots (all in spots NOT above the stringers) to find some mixed results. The stringers are all 95% structurally sound. The only places where there were some issues were where there was wood attached to the stringers running perpendicular to the length of the boat that had started to rot. A small amount of this made it to the stringers running parallel with the length of the boat but nothing too deep before finding very solid wood.

We then spoke with a well-respected local shop that gave us some advice. We were told that the "damage" to the stringers was very minimal and that the stringers that mattered (that the engine was attached to) were in great shape, so not to worry. He said that if we wanted to, we could clean up the few little spots on the stringers, add some support, glass or epoxy it, add some foam, put a new floor on, and be good to go for many years to come. He did say that since we had done so much work already, he would charge $1,500 to replace the stringers, but he said it really was not necessary. What are your opinions?

Do the repairs that he mentions seem reasonable and effective? Do you agree with his recommendations? Where do you find and how difficult is it to apply the fiberglass over the wood? My father is a wood worker and I have been around it my whole life so that does not concern me, but I am just trying to figure out how effective it would be...

Thank you all SO much for any feedback you can supply!

[cavilry]

This isn't with the floor off, but with the carpet, tank, and seats out.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee263/rockandride6/Supra/photo-40.jpg

[jet]

I did a floor top only on mine like a 6-7 yrs ago. i had a soft spot in the floor where you normally climb in the boat, so I took off the floor only fix one lil board and recapped it. It was quick and easy fix and no engine to take out. Im redoing mine now and the floor was still fine 99% dry.

[Salty87]

there are cross-supports that run between the stringers to support the floor. the factory notched the stringers for the cross-supports and doomed them to rot at those spots. it's a poor design. fiberglass cloth doesn't make 90 degree corners very well.

poured flotation foam is a bad thing. i think you'll still want to remove it all for a proper inspection of all of the stringers. once that foam is removed, don't let anyone pour any more. it locks in moisture.

it's possible to fix the stringers just at the notches. many of us did not notch the new stringers. you might consider redesigning the cross-supports. it all depends on what you have to work with if your current stringers are worth saving.

fiberglassing takes time and patience. you can't rush it. it's not hard though if you can follow directions.

[Okie Boarder]

Don't forget that the front end of these boats can trap a lot of water too. You might try seeing what inspection you can do of the stringers up front...there are a few places you can access them to see. If you find the main stringers are good except at the intersections, you can probably cut out the bad spot, scab in some new wood, then build on it from there. If there is any doubt of issues on the main stringers, or issue up front under the playpen area, etc. you would probably serve yourself best by looking at replacing everything. A partial replacement is ultimately only buying you time. Even if the wood in there isn't rotted, it is dried out and old. Although the strength doesn't totally come from the wood, it seems like it adds to the integrity. The other thing to consider is that these boats were built a certain way for weight limits. With any compromise in structural integrity that you don't truly improve upon, you have an increased risk of issues if you start running ballast weight, which most people like to do.

[cavilry]

We are going to jump into the boat this weekend again and try to make some final decisions on the route to go. Right now we are leaning towards "spot repair" so to speak. After digging all around the stringers and into them, we have not found any spots that have rotted all of the way through, just an inch or so down into the stringer. None of the rot goes more than about 6 inches along the length of the stringer either (luckily).

As I mentioned, my dad is a wood worker so I am going to have him look at it and see what he thinks about the structural integrity of the wood.

For the floors, we will be using some marine-grade plywood I am thinking...is this the way to go? What is the best way to seal the floors? Not that I want to drop thousands on sealing it, but what would be the best, no-compromise method?

[mapleleaf]

I think that if you're laying over your old floor, marine ply might be a tad on the expensive side especially if a stringer job is in your future. I guess it all depends on how long you want to keep that boat. PT ply would be my choice if i planned on doing stringers a yr or two down the road. Top that with some outdoor carpet from Lowes and you'd be back and ready on a good budget. That, however, would be a bandaid at best. I'm sure these aren't easy decisions as you wanna be on the water this yr!
PS I found something in my basement you might be looking for, measurements were good bud.....

[cavilry]

Really??? Nice! Let me know :)

We aren't actually laying over the old floor, that has all been ripped out now. I think we will be doing the spot repairs where necessary, with a little bit of structural additions per my (way smarter than myself) father's advice and guidance. Haha.

We will see how it goes. I will do my best to document the progress. Most likely not everyone will agree with how it's done but I think it will come out with a strong finished product that should last quite a few years.

[Salty87]

Most likely not everyone will agree with how it's done but I think it will come out with a strong finished product that should last quite a few years.

few 2 rebuilds have been done the same but at the same time...few 2 boats appear to be the same from the factory back then either. nobody's counting, lol.

do what ya gotta do to get it done. don't pour foam back in, add some drainage, you could be good to go for a long time.

[cavilry]

Welp, after further investigation of the floor and stringers, I think we are electing to have them done. If the guy can really do the stringers for $1,500, and the floor for a relatively reasonable amount, we are going to have him do so. We have removed the interior, 99% of the floor, and are going to remove the foam for him so hopefully he won't be charging too much...now to figure out how to pull the engine. :)

[riveredge]

Pulling the engine is easy compared to the rest of that job... fuel line, water hose, exhaust hoses, wire harness, battery cables (- to block, + to starter), coupler to driveshaft, motor mount bolts, that's it! If I recall, you can pull the engine and transmission together... last few times I did it I only needed the engine out. You can use a chain between the two big lift eyes, with a good hoist, or a tractor, forklift, chain hoist to a rafter your garage, something like that.

[zalamander]

In the sunsport there is also a flat board in the front of the bilge area that traps A LOT of water, you may want to see about removing that as well. See Pics.8958 This is it after I removed the board.
I dont have a pic for it yet, but I left it out and use that space for my 500lb fat sac.

And yes... pulling the engine is small potatoes compared to the rest of the work involved w/ floor & stringers.

[zalamander]

9046
9047
Here are pictures of same bulge area after.

[wspeedin]

9046
9047
Here are pictures of same bulge area after.

Zalamander, where do you fit a 500 lb sac in that area? Can you take a picture of the sac sitting inside the bilge? maybe one of it full and one of it empty?

[zalamander]

Sorry it took me a while, couldn't remember where I stashed the fat sacs during the rebuild. After looking at them, I was wrong :( what I have is one of the 260# Side sacs (x2=520#) ... http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-side-sacs.html
This is the sac I'm gonna get this year for that space, it's 580#... http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-rear-seat-sac.html
Should fit that space better, and I'm going to remove the ski pole. If anyone is interested it is a custom made Stainless replica ski pole holder. I also have two pieces of 5' PVC pipe that I drilled holes in and lay on either side of the bilge pump so that water can flow around the fat sac, and they keep the weight of the fat sac from dislodging the bilge pump.
Here are my pics...91139114911591169117