Broken bolt riser to exhaust manifold

[LFADAM]

I tried using an Easy Out and it snapped immediately. This thing is literally welded into the Manifold. Any advice? Im thinking I just have to drill out a new hole and re-tap the threads. Any caution against doing this? I know it will be hard to get through the hardened bolt extractor. Attached is a picture 9161

[DKJBama92Mariah]

I broke an easy out off in a bolt one time in the timing cover of a Land Rover. Drilling through the hardened ez-out will not be an easy task, I'd dare say impossible without a drill press. Unless you have a drill press in your shop, I would just pull the manifold and carry it to a machine shop.

[wspeedin]

Adam, your boat is completely useless now and I suggest you bring it down to charlotte and drop it off with me.

Thanks,
Will Speed

[LFADAM]

I broke an easy out off in a bolt one time in the timing cover of a Land Rover. Drilling through the hardened ez-out will not be an easy task, I'd dare say impossible without a drill press. Unless you have a drill press in your shop, I would just pull the manifold and carry it to a machine shop.

I dont have a drill press...Im hoping I can drill a tiny hole in the screw just to the side of the Easy Out and get an awl or something under the Easy Out and pry it out. I literally only got 1/4 of a turn on the EZ out so probably not more than a millimeter of the tip is stuck in there. Im hoping I can pry it out and re-do this hole because I dont know how to remove the manifold, nor do I have the time/money to have a machine shop fix this.

It seems that redrilling and threading a new bigger hole is pretty straight forward...only problem I can forsee is the tap breaking while rethreading...then I would be where I am now but with a bigger hole. I would be careful not to drill the new hole any further down to make sure I dont punch through anything I shouldnt, but does anyone know if there is more metal under the screw hole on the manifold or if I would punch a hole into a water/cooling chamber or exhaust? Thanks

[DKJBama92Mariah]

I dont have a drill press...Im hoping I can drill a tiny hole in the screw just to the side of the Easy Out and get an awl or something under the Easy Out and pry it out. I literally only got 1/4 of a turn on the EZ out so probably not more than a millimeter of the tip is stuck in there.

You may be able to make that work. Woundn't hurt trying. It certainly would be easier than having to pull the manifold. I learned the hard way that you should NOT chuck an easy out into a drill, use only a handwrench to turn it.


Im hoping I can pry it out and re-do this hole because I dont know how to remove the manifold, nor do I have the time/money to have a machine shop fix this.

Manifold is not hard to pull once you get the risers out of the way. 8 bolts and one hose is all it it. Reassembly only requires a new gasket set. Just have a helper there to support the weight of the manifold while you remove the bolts holding it to the head. I wouldn't think a machine shop would charge you more than 30 or 40 bucks to remove that bolt and chase the threads. If they can't get the bolt out, they can drill it out and retap the hole to a bigger size for you or perhaps instal a helicoil so you can keep the same size bolt.



It seems that redrilling and threading a new bigger hole is pretty straight forward...only problem I can forsee is the tap breaking while rethreading...then I would be where I am now but with a bigger hole. I would be careful not to drill the new hole any further down to make sure I dont punch through anything I shouldnt, but does anyone know if there is more metal under the screw hole on the manifold or if I would punch a hole into a water/cooling chamber or exhaust? Thanks
You will not break they tap if the hole is drilled to the appropriate size for the tap and you use a hand tap handle to do the cutting. Of course use cutting lube on the tap while cutting the threads.

My main worry would be trying to drill it out with a hand drill. Both the bolt and the ezout itself are harder than the cast iron manifold. Also like you mentioned, the ezout is harder than the drill bit itself. I would be very worried about the drill slipping or getting out of square with the manifold and hogging out the hole in the manifold rendering it useless. That is why I suggested using a drill press. If i were to try such a thing with a hand drill, I'm pretty confident I'd just end up making a mess and having to buy a new manifold anyway.

[lively]

i have two old long tube 3" if you want to buy them ? say 50.00 + shipping 8179963051

[ahyshka]

If you can get a small chisel to hit the top of the ez-out to unscrew it from the broken bolt. If you are successful, drill thru the broken bolt with a small drill bit keeping lots of pressure at a slow rpm. (helps to center punch to keep drill bit from skating). Then repeat gradually upsizing in drill bit size. Eventually the bolt will break loose and should literally unscrew with ease.
a lot easier said then done. Maybe start with a #40 then go to a #30 then #20.

[LFADAM]

Thanks for all of the replies. I think I am going to go out and try ahyshka's method first tomorrow. DJKBama92 is scaring me with the drilling a bigger hole with a hand drill, but I may try it anyways, especially if lively is talking about 2 exhaust manifolds for 50 bucks. I dont know what a " old 3" long tubes" are but Im assuming you are talking about the manifold.

Again, if I accidentally drill too far in this hole, what is below? A good amount more metal, or will I punch through to somewhere I dont want to be. Anyone know?

[DKJBama92Mariah]

I think lively is talking about the 3" long tube risers, not the manifolds. The different parts we're talking about can be found here, along with prices http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1158

[DKJBama92Mariah]

Don't let me discourage your from trying to do it on your own. That is not my intention, just want you to be fully informed. I hope you can get it out yourself. The key will be getting the ezout out of the bolt. If you can get that done, it's probably doable with a regular drill if done like ahyshka has suggested.

Is there enough of the bolt left to where you could dremel it down enough to get a pair of vice grips on the ez out?

I'm sure there's a water jacket down there somewhere below the bottom of that bolt hole, I've no clue how far it is though. Try this on for size though. You can use the other open bolthole as a gauge to see how deep it is, and then wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit at that depth so you'll know how deep to go.

Edit to add. Before you start drilling. Stick a rag down the big center port in the manifold. You don't want any metal chips falling down there and getting into the cylinders through the exhaust valves.

[lively]

I have the manifolds and risers the manifolds have a crack I'n them and the risers just need to be cleaned .. And that's 50 a piece on the exhaust products . New they are 109.00 for the risers and 170.00 for the manifolds .. I bought new ones a few weeks ago
So 608.00 shipped to my door for my new stuff .. But I would be certain that bit will want to walk off the ezout and off to the side of the center

[LFADAM]

Thanks-I did the rag thing already but Im sure a little bit of debris got in when I pulled it out, should I try to vacuum that out before starting it or do you think it is negligible and will burn off/be expelled?

There isnt any nub left on the bolt that I can dremel out but I am pretty confident that I can get this easy out removed. So little of it is in there...Im more worried about the redrilling/threading. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Thanks

[DKJBama92Mariah]

Go to an auto parts store and buy a can of stuff called PB Blaster. It's awesome for breaking up corrosion on stuck fasteners.

As far as the little bit of debris that got down the manifolds is concerned, you'll most likely be fine. The exhaust should blow it out when you fire it up.

[haugy]

Get a counter rotating drill bit. Get one that is half the size of the bolt. That way it can penetrate easily, but it's strong enough to cut.

By using a counter rotating drill bit, you turn the drill on to counter rotate (left, opposite of normal drilling). This allows it to cut into the bolt, while creating vibrations through out, and also allows the bolt to break free if it works itself free by moving with the bit in the counter rotation movement versus tightening from drilling the other direction.

Then work your bits up on size. It will eventually break free or pull out. I do this all the time. Works great when an ease out won't work.

[wiatowski]

Thanks-I did the rag thing already but Im sure a little bit of debris got in when I pulled it out, should I try to vacuum that out before starting it or do you think it is negligible and will burn off/be expelled?

There isn't any nub left on the bolt that I can dremmel out but I am pretty confident that I can get this easy out removed. So little of it is in there...Im more worried about the redrilling/threading. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Thanks
when you get the bolt out you could also put a helicoil kit in... I've done that many times for exhaust bolts in heads. I've had one on my truck once where I've snapped an easy out off and 2 hardened drills in the same hole.Used a diamond bit dremmel to clear the hole.

[LFADAM]

Well I failed miserably. I broke 4 bits trying to drill tiny holes around the broken easy out. Then I had it exposed enough to get at it, and I started working it side to side with a chisel and somehow it got pushed twice as far down, so now it is literally impossible to get at. Time for the marina to deal with it. They think they can get it out (maybe they have a diamond tipped drill)...I just hope they can fix this thing SOON. Thanks for the help, unfortunately Im still an amateur boat mechanic and dont have the tools I need to do the job right.

[wiatowski]

do you have a torch? or a welder? or both?

[LFADAM]

Neither. I am in college (this is our wakeboard club's boat, I am president so therefore I am repairman). I have wrenches, ratchets, a drill, and pliers. Thats about it (and most of that I borrow from friends)

[lively]

take it to a muffler shop have them blow through the hole , it just cast iron.. just make sure he has steady hands .. probably 10$ in labor and 3 min to blow through .. easy

[wiatowski]

take it to a muffler shop have them blow through the hole , it just cast iron.. just make sure he has steady hands .. probably 10$ in labor and 3 min to blow through .. easy

That's what I'd do... If you had the tools I'd say weld a nut on it and then heat around the boltand turn it out.... about a hundred ways to skin this cat. :)

[bens250ex]

What college you go to ?