Boat Sank!!!

[duckseatfree]

Soooo. My boat sank.

This happened last year around October. It seems there was a slight tear where the platform is supported and my pump died while I was gone. Long story short...it sank. Good thing is that it only partially sank. I had it tied to the dock and the water level was low so it held the boat up a bit.

Water did get inside and in the engine. I had it towed immediately (when I notieced) and the engine was picked and winterized immediately. I also had a new starter put in it. The shop that did the work told me that the engine was in great condition still and ran great before they winterized it.

I plan on getting 2 new batteries, since they were surrounded in water, and a new solenoid.

I am also going to restore the entire thing (stingers, wiring, interior, etc.) over the spring/summer but want to make sure the engine is in great working order before I do. I don't want to do all the work and then find out that the engine is shot.

Any suggestions as to how to summerize the boat and any precautions I should take?


"86 Sunsport 351 pcm"

9241

[DAFF]

I'm thinkin the perfect balast rather than sank.

As for the engine if it still turns over and all the fluids were changed in the fall all should be good.

[haugy]

Do your own fluid changes.

Then remove all your spark plugs, and spray engine fogger down into each cylinder. Then with the plugs still out, turn the engine over repeatedly. This will help prime the oil pump and get the cylinders lubricated. Plus, if you had any doubts about moisture, having the plugs out will let you know there is no moisture in it.

After that, she should fire right up. We've rolled vehicles, and the engines filled up with coolant. After flushing it out we'd start them right up.

[duckseatfree]

Awesome! Thanks guys.

I'll probably give it a shot this weekend.

Once I get it running (hopefully), its makeover time for the boat. I'll start a separate thread for the remodel.

[duckseatfree]

Do your own fluid changes.


What about the transmission. I haven't changed the tranny oil before. I'm guessing I should go ahead and do that now?

[DKJBama92Mariah]

What about the transmission. I haven't changed the tranny oil before. I'm guessing I should go ahead and do that now?

That would be a good idea if the shop didn't do it last fall.

[duckseatfree]

Ok, so I'm finally going to start with this project. Got a little busy with a new job.


Do your own fluid changes. Then remove all your spark plugs, and spray engine fogger down into each cylinder.

Haugy...any particular engine fogger I should use?

Thanks for the great tips by the way.

[DAFF]

I hope the engine isnt scrap. Wet rings and engine internals will cause a quick death.... Does it still spin??

[duckseatfree]

I hope the engine isnt scrap. Wet rings and engine internals will cause a quick death.... Does it still spin??

It still ran back in October when the mechanic pickled the engine (I misspelled that earlier, I said "picked"). It was pickled immediately after it was towed but I haven't tried since then - I start today after work.

I took the time last night to make an inventory of what I'm going to do with the engine tomorrow (if I can do it all).

New solenoid
New breaker
New wiring (mainly cables that run to the battery, but the others as well.
New tranny Oil
New Oil
New spark plugs
New fuel filter
New alternator (doesn't really need it but I might as well get a new one).

This should keep me busy for the night. After I get it running again I'm going to start tearing down the floors and replacing the stringers. Since I know I won't be able to do it all at once I think I'm going to try to do it in sections, kind of like oldman did last year (or was it 2 years ago?).

[haugy]

Oh buddy.........you haven't done this yet? Oh man, can we say rust?

Okay, take everything I said regarding the oil changes and fogger, and double it. That engine is going to have rust in places you aren't even familiar with. Once you get all the wiring re-done and start to tackle the engine, I'd recommend something along these lines.

1) Change the oil
2) Remove the spark plugs
3) Engine fogger (any kind, a couple cans), and spray the hell out of each cylinder. Once one is sprayed heavily take a large wrench and do a half turn on the crank. This will allow the piston to move and help spread the fogger around. Also freeing up anything rusted. Respray that cylinder before moving to the next one. Repeat for all 8 cylinders.
4) By now you should have put about 4 full turns on the engine, do about 8-9 more by hand, not with the starter to ensure everything is loose and freely moving.
5) Use the starter to prime the engine oil and fuel.
6) Reconnect everything, and start. It's going to smoke pretty good burning up the fogger and rust.
7) Use SeaFoam. If you haven't used Seafoam before, it's the only thing I use for stuff like this. There are videos on it, and how to use it. While the engine is running, and warmed up, pour a half of a can into the carb bowls slowly until the engine chokes out and dies. Then let sit for 10 minutes. Pour the other half of the can into the oil fill (crankcase). Wait another 10 minutes, and fire it up to run for about 10 minutes. It will smoke pretty good, no worries.
8.) Once that's done, re-change the oil to remove the rust debris, seafoam (can thin the oil), and any other contanimants in the oil.
9) Check spark plugs. Seafoam is designed to clean them up, so they should be fine. If any oil is on them, rechange.

I know there are guys in there that will say that's overkill, and it's somewhat true. I've started 40yr old engines with just new oil and fuel, but if you want to clean up the insides, and go about it gently, that's what I would do.

[duckseatfree]

Thanks Haugy!

It's been a while since I did this. Do you know what oil weight I should use? This is what the manual says...
32°F(0°C)to 90°F(32°C) - SAE 30W “SE”
90°F (32°C) and Above - SAE 40W ”SE



Last couple of times I summerized the engine I used seafoam (the stuff is magic!) so I'm quite comfortable with the stuff.

I prefer overkill over buying a new engine! Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


EDIT: I think I forgot to mention that this is an '86 Sunsport with a 351.

[kvand347]

Thanks Haugy!

It's been a while since I did this. Do you know what oil weight I should use? This is what the manual says...
32°F(0°C)to 90°F(32°C) - SAE 30W “SE”
90°F (32°C) and Above - SAE 40W ”SE



Last couple of times I summerized the engine I used seafoam (the stuff is magic!) so I'm quite comfortable with the stuff.

I prefer overkill over buying a new engine! Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


EDIT: I think I forgot to mention that this is an '86 Sunsport with a 351.

SAE 30w if you can find it. I use Valvoline Racing VR1 20w-50.

[docdrs]

If this engine was pickled , ran and then winterized is this not necessary? Was the starter and alternator pickled as well? I believe you will know when you try and fire it up.

[riveredge]

Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like the motor was already taken care of by a shop in the fall regarding the sinking. This would eliminate the need to do any major, unusual things at this time, beyond an oil change, tranny oil change, filters, and spark plugs, cap/rotor, that type of stuff. By "pickled" I assumed you meant "dried out and brought back to running condition" after the partial submersion.

edit: didn't see the response above when I clicked on "reply" but anyway, ^^ that.

[Hematoma]

I'm with the guys above, sounds like the shop should have done this already. After winter break I just pull the plugs and squirt Marvel Mystery oil in each hole, spin motor by hand afew times and let her rip.

[duckseatfree]

I agree with you guys that normally all I would really need to do is the regular spring tune up. But since it sank, although the shop did pickle the engine, I want to take every precaution that I can to ensure it's fine. I would rather over due it than have something go wrong and going through the trouble of dealing with the shop again.

As for using SAE 30w, I always thought that was for small engines...am I wrong on that? Or is it that because we don't run the boats during winter that we don't need the added polymers (like 5w30 or 10w30)?



EDIT (addition): I noticed last night when I checked the oil that it had a slight smell of an additive (the same smell seafom has). Is that common when a shop winterizes a boat? I usually winterize the boat myself so this was new to me.

[kvand347]

I agree with you guys that normally all I would really need to do is the regular spring tune up. But since it sank, although the shop did pickle the engine, I want to take every precaution that I can to ensure it's fine. I would rather over due it than have something go wrong and going through the trouble of dealing with the shop again.

As for using SAE 30w, I always thought that was for small engines...am I wrong on that? Or is it that because we don't run the boats during winter that we don't need the added polymers (like 5w30 or 10w30)?


EDIT (addition): I noticed last night when I checked the oil that it had a slight smell of an additive (the same smell seafom has). Is that common when a shop winterizes a boat? I usually winterize the boat myself so this was new to me.

Regarding your oil choice, I would be most concerned about the Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP) level in the oil you use. Most of the older boats on here are running a hydrolic flat tappet motor that needs the high levels of ZDDP to work correctly. Most conventional oils on the market contain low levels which will eventually wipe the lopes on your camshaft...I know because it happened to my '75 corvette. Like I said, VR1 racing oil contains both the increased level of ZDDP and the polymers in a mulit-weight oil.

[wotan2525]

Zinc is important to old motors. I always add a zinc additive to my BBC.

[haugy]

Okay, I've been around motors all my life, and I've never once heard the term "pickled".

I even called my 52yr old engine building buddy with a shop, and he hasn't either.

So in your definition OP, what did the shop do to be "pickled"? That will decide whether or not my previous post is useless to do or not.

[duckseatfree]

I'll have to call the mechanic to be exactly sure but from my understanding they:
Clear all the water from the engine
change the oil several times
used treated gasoline
have it fogged
winterize the boat
I'm sure there are other steps that I'm forgetting but it's been a while since the guy told me.

I think the term "pickled" might be the term insurance companies use thus not common mechanics? Not sure...just a guess on that.

[docdrs]

Generally they will fill the engine thru the intake mani / carb with diesel fuel or kerosene to displace the water then drained , run then oil changed and run again

[haugy]

Well, if that's true then all I would do is new plugs and still do the seafoam treatment. Then change the oil. I don't trust anyone, so if I didn't change it myself, I don't assume it's been done.

Then you would be good to go.

[TitanTn]

Generally they will fill the engine thru the intake mani / carb with diesel fuel or kerosene to displace the water then drained , run then oil changed and run again

This is the most common definition of pickling an engine. You hear this term in the marine industry as it relates to submerged engines. Very common.

[duckseatfree]

Well, if that's true then all I would do is new plugs and still do the seafoam treatment. Then change the oil. I don't trust anyone, so if I didn't change it myself, I don't assume it's been done.
Pretty much why I'm doing this. Can't ever be to safe.

Thanks docdrs and TitanTn.

I took time last night and replaced the wires and cables (I needed to do that anyways), new solenoid, new fuel filter, and changed the tranny oil. It's amazing how little I did yet it seems I was outside forever! I plan on doing the seafoam treatment and an oil change tonight to see if I can get it running again.

[riveredge]

This is the most common definition of pickling an engine. You hear this term in the marine industry as it relates to submerged engines. Very common.

Or put a couple quarts of diesel in with the engine oil, for the same reason - to help remove moisture. But yeah, common term when referring to submerged engines...

[haugy]

Ahhhhh, happily I have yet to submerge an engine completely (in a boat). So that was a new one on me. :D

[duckseatfree]

Okay, new question.

Anyone what AMP the breaker needs to be? I'm thinking I need a new one. Also, where can I get the breaker block?

[riveredge]

Which breaker? Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors are my favorite online sources for parts like that...

[duckseatfree]

Which breaker? Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors are my favorite online sources for parts like that...

Sorry, stupid question...I got it.

So I tried to get it started and no luck - no power anywhere. Turns out my battery was dead (I had gotten a new one a while back) so I'm charging it and hopefully it will be fully charged this afternoon. Once I get the engine going I'll have to start a new thread for the restoration process to add to the nice collection already on here :D