Rudder Packing/Refurb?

[wotan2525]

I say something like this every spring but AFAIK, the rudder is one of the last remaining original parts on my boat that hasn't been rebuilt or replaced. I didn't mess with it when I replaced the stringers and I've never greased or serviced it in anyway (todays the first day I even realized it had a grease zerk... whoops!)

I know it leaks but the "solution" has always been to keep the batterys charged and the bilge pump functional.

This year as part of my spring mainteannce/upgrade program I am tackling leaky swim platform brackets and rudder packing. And..... it's not making much sense to me.

Here's what I've got (and pardon the dirty bilge.... I had a super bad a oil leak a few seasons ago and this part of the bilge has never been accessible to clean. It will be clean before it goes back together.)

http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120507_200054.jpg

I thought I'd knock the rudder out.... not quite that easy, is it?

http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120507_200728.jpg

So -- Do I need to remove the rudder? I assume that's going to mean pulling out some jacks and woodblocks. Can I replace the seals without that?

And... does anyone have a rough procedure for removing and replacing those seals? They all seem pretty dried out and not too happy to be removed.

[sybrmike]

Yeah, I had to use a jack and blocks to rock the hull over to get the rudder to clear the prop guard. Replaced the original worn out packing unit with a zerk & o-ring style. Dental picks (harbor freight) might help get the old o-rings out, but looks like that's gonna happen in pieces regardless. I'd think you could take the rudder to a good auto parts or Ace hardware to match up new o-rings.

[wotan2525]

So do I fit the seals to the rudder or do I need to completely remove the housing?

[lively]

So do I fit the seals to the rudder or do I need to completely remove the housing?really depends on where its leaking , through the rudder
housing itself , or just the oring and grease seals ... i like doing things one time so if it was me i would bust it loose and 5200 it back together .. just my 2 cents

[wotan2525]

Looks like TitanTN documented this procedure pretty well, here --> https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10163-Repairing-a-older-style-rudder-port

I'm undecided about whether I'm going to pull the port out or not. AFAIK, that doesn't leak. We'll see what it looks like once it's cleaned up.

And... I'm very particular about where I use 5200. This job (since it may eventually be removed) will be reserved for 4200.

[lively]

Looks like TitanTN documented this procedure pretty well, here --> https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10163-Repairing-a-older-style-rudder-port

I'm undecided about whether I'm going to pull the port out or not. AFAIK, that doesn't leak. We'll see what it looks like once it's cleaned up.

And... I'm very particular about where I use 5200. This job (since it may eventually be removed) will be reserved for 4200.its just 5200 dont be scared lol

[spudski67]

Sorry to hijak, but where the heck is the grease zerk? Ive looked everywhere (at least as much as I can see without removing gas tank/rear seat) in my 1990 sunsport.

Ian

[wotan2525]

Look at my first photo and you can see it sticking out the left side of the rudder port. It's impossible to see with the tiller arm attached (which is why I didn't know about it, either!)

[DAFF]

Mod Alert!!!!
I'm thinking that someone needs to put on a greasable remote on their rudder port. Not a hard mod at all, just add some flex line and new zirk on the end mounted to a point which is EZ to get to. This way the rudder can have a drink of grease now and then keeping a nice and tight water seal and making steering much smother.

[sybrmike]

Spudski - you may not have zerks on yours. Late 80's/early 90's was a transistion time & Supra used some rudders with packing & some with zerks. My 89 had had a packed rudder.

[bens250ex]

Napa has the seals there about 5 bucks and you need 2 of them I'll try to find part number but I'm not at home so might take a day or so. Napa also can match you up a oring.

[wotan2525]

Sweeeet!! Let me know when you find the part #... I'm going to try and jack her up enough to get the rudder out tonight.

[bens250ex]

part number is 11060 it is made by SKF. Take your old oring out and take it with you when you go to get the seals and they can match it up for you.

[wotan2525]

Thanks! I'm headed in there this afternoon with the entire port to get the right 0-rings, seals and zerk fitting.

My top port and bottom port fit together VERY VERY tight (like.... you need a hammer to get them apart/back together. Is this normal?

[bens250ex]

I think it is, i had a hell of a time getting mine off

[wotan2525]

I think I got it all taken care of. NAPA had the grease seals, o-ring, snap-ring, and new grease zerk that I needed. Grease seal seemed to be a pretty tight fit (and I bent one of them banging it in) but I think after all was said and done it all went together correctly.

It will for sure be better off than what I had before!

[bens250ex]

Yea needless to say I bent a couple when I had to do it in the boat. It was a lot easier using a press but that was when I had it out doing the stringers.