Hit a rock, cracked through the hulls core structure.

[Graeme]

Hit a rock idling forward, hit the fins, caused gelcoat cracks, and one crack inside the hull. Then hit hull, scraping away some gelcoat/fillcoat, then hit the driveshaft, the caught the lip of the drive strut, forcing a shear crack along the back edge of the mounting, that went right up through the wood core. There is the problem.

Does anyone have any infor on how this is constructed? Engineering drawings or anything? Is the keel solid wood?

[Graeme]

9898989999009901

[Jetlink]

Ouch seems like an understatement in this instance, holy cow man, that looks like a significant amount of damage.

[wotan2525]

Ouch! Insurance?

[lively]

It's all glass bud ,

If u have no insurance then this can be repaired by any DIY , the fins will need to be straightened and you will need a new drive
Shaft unless u have a good machine shop nearby that can put it on a lathe to see the runout clearances ..

As for the hull you can repair this ! And very simply if you make a plan and stick to it ...
You will need 2 gal of polyester resin or epoxy . Witchever u choose .. And some 1.5 chopped strand mat , 1708 stich mat , and
Some woven roving .. All you need to do is remove strut and grind the areas that are damaged .. And glass new layers into the
Voids .. If you research how to fiberglass and really take notes ( like how to repair cracked fiberglass ) you will see that most of
The work is the grinding and getting it clean .. Dont be shy when u add layers .. 1708 is very strong and I used it on my hull .. It had a hole the size of a quarter and I layered 25 oz of new fiberglass and it is solid as a rock !


YouTube is ur bestfriend if u want to learn to fiberglass .. Just take ur time to research before u decide to take it to a repair shop , that right there total prob 3500 at a shop .. If you did it and replaced parts .. Maybe 800.00 ... Spend less ( learn more )
My motto ..

[DAFF]

Do you plan on fixing it yourself or insurance??

All in all fibreglass work is not that difficult but time consuming. I would start on removing the strut and the twisted drive shaft to remove the stress on the bottom of the boat. From there I think the alignment issue with the strut will be much less dramatic. With a grinder pick up a sanding disk with the flap design and start to remove the old gel coat and open up the wounds. Rule of thumb the repaired area needs to be 2.5 times the damaged area. This way you can layer in the new glass from small to big, criss crossing the woven material at 45deg to each other.

On the inside of the strut layered into the glass is a piece of plywood which more than likely is cracked too. This needs to be cut out and replaced with new. I think a better part of a weekend and you will back in the water.

[Graeme]

No insurance, only liability coverage.

There is definately would there, you can see the core structure is wood, and it has come up inside. Stiffness is a problem, since it is on the keel, and by the strut. thinking of cutting everything out and rebuilding the core, then rebonding new layers using a 12 to 1 bevel.

New drive shaft, prop, fins and bushings are the very least of my worries...I just wish I could take it to a shop and say fix it!

[Salty87]

buy Full-Throttle's hull

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10671-1986-Sunsport-project-in-western-Mass.

[lively]

The actual (hull) is fiberglass , the base for the strut , rudder have a 1/2" wood base and the edges are cut at 45 degree angles
To let the glass lay smooth .. But to do it properly you will need to remove wood base completely and glass from inside the boat
Then do all the finish work on the bottom side .. And new wood base and glass it all in ..

But I would buy alot of beer and whiskey and some little Helpers to lend a hand ..
And some baby powder for those itches from grinding glass .. Good luck and take pics along the way

[Graeme]

Well I can't seem to find a company that wants to take the job, so I have a friend who works on military aircraft, and works with glass a lot, he's coming over tonight and we're gonna decide how to fix this.

[Okie Boarder]

Definitely repairable and most of the info given so far is what you need to know. Where are you located?

[bens250ex]

deff fixable but done correctly it will take a little time. Cut the bad stuff out and then work from there. What is your location?

[jet]

I would normally say yes repair it, if it was in a more flat area or on a less important area, but thats in a really important area and the hardest spot to do. Like salty said, you could find a donor boat really messed up and cheap because you only need the under half so it could be a shell $400-$500?? and then exchange them out. I would be on the lookout for a donor boat for sure!

[jet]

OK, changed my mind. After the intial SHOCK wore off and I looked again (yes, I like seeing train wrecks) it is more cosmetic than structure. Its not as bad as my7 feelings were for you when I saw it. lol. Go for it!

[Salty87]

it is repairable but will take some time. working with interior/engine/etc in the way will be a pain. will you have to remove some of the floor to get access? what shape is your floor in? stringers?

be a shame to put a bunch of time/$ into her and still have original stringers. redo the stringers in a solid hull w/your topcap and you're like new. lively can hook you up with a painter, lol.

either way you go...that sucks. hate to see/hear it.

[cadunkle]

Sorry to hear it man. It's only fiberglass with some wood backing where the hardware mounts. It can be fixed and probably looks worse than it is. Best of luck in your repairs.

[wiatowski]

buy Full-Throttle's hull

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10671-1986-Sunsport-project-in-western-Mass.

this is a good idea!

[DAFF]

Sorry to hear it man. It's only fiberglass with some wood backing where the hardware mounts. It can be fixed and probably looks worse than it is. Best of luck in your repairs.

I agree 150%... Do not cut out the bad areas just grind out the bad areas 1/4" down or do untill you hit the green coloured structural glass. It is amazing how alittle resin and fabric will add so much structural integrity.

grind area of impact to 250% of damaged area...
paint resin hardener on the bottom of the hull in the region of repair...
place glass on the resin....
paint again with resin hardener...
repeat 5-8 layers.....

Do this on the inside too!!!

Smooth out imperfections using a short hair fibreglass then boardfile using 80grit...
When you get it close then add body filler and boardfile again going up the grit chain....
prime and paint.

[Graeme]

First off, why hasn't Full throttle's boat sold? If I can get down there I promise I will buy it. The trailer alone is worth more.

I am in Nova Scotia Canada right now, and there just isn't a huge market for these boats here, hence not much expertise in repairing them. On that note, a guy from work and I are going to do the repairs.

He usually works on military aircraft, and does a lot of very precise work, and he is very confident he can fix it, but he said it could take up to 40 hours of his time, so I am just gonna pay him for it.

We looked at the gash, and it's basically nothing. Easy fix.

Going to grind out all the cracks, and attempt to save the strut mounting surface to keep the alignment. Build it up from the bottom. May remove the plywood square, or keep and add a plywood layer, depending on what we seeing when we open it up.

Other cracks in the gelcoat will be ground down to ensure there is no damage to the structure underneath.

I am ordering all the mechanicals, and doing all that work. And the Gelcoat. Might need to do research on that.

I have had a few bad spots on my stringers, which I partially replaced under the drivers seat, but I want this boat on the water. If I don't get boarding soon I am gonna lose my mind. I just do touch ups here and there.

And I will post pics!

[lively]

Get r done son !!

[wiatowski]

First off, why hasn't Full throttle's boat sold? If I can get down there I promise I will buy it. The trailer alone is worth more.

Agreed! I wish I had the extra grand kicking around I would have bought it already.... Hey Maple thought you were thinking about it... what are you waiting for man. Maybe I should try to convince my father-in law to buy it.... hmmm.

Where in Nova Scotia are you? I've got friends in Grand Pre and Wolfville.

[Graeme]

1000 bucks...I should just drive down and get it.

I'm about half an hour from Wolfville in Kingston NS. Posted to Trenton this summer, so I will have to drop by and check out the job you did on your 86. Mine is an 86 too...

[Graeme]

10022100231002410025

Just a few pics showing the repairs so far.

[Graeme]

Can anyone tell me what product is used on the bottom, over the fibreglass and under the gelcoat that feels like body fill or ceramic? I need to source this somewhere.

Also, what is the product used on the inside of the hull, that is thick and grey sortof like a bondo type material?

[Salty87]

probably just thickened resin. you can buy silica or glass beads or pull chopped strand mat apart into little pieces. i've read that some use sawdust too. glass beads makes the resin weaker. chopped strand mat is the cheapest/most convenient if you're using poly resin as you should already have it on hand. the little pieces melt into the resin and thickens it. watch your pot time of course.

i'm sure back in the day the factory didn't use anything fancy.

[lively]

Man u got that glass work going !! I would use some woven on that as well and lay up atleast 40 oz of glass (1/4) " thickness and spread ur glass 1" out every
Layer u put on or it will come back to haunt you ... keep up the great work!