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View Full Version : 1987 ts6m WOT RPM issues and hard starting when hot



rook
06-05-2012, 06:13 PM
I just purchased a 87 ts6m w/ a 351W. I love this boat but after about 6 times on the river I think it has a couple of small issues that need sorting. First off the boat runs well and smooth and gets out of the hole fast. However, at WOT I am only getting about 3400 rpms and around 38 mph. This is ok but I know it has more. I live and operate the boat at sea level and where I bought it was around 4000 feet. I think that means some adjustments must be made but I dont know what needs tweaking or if this is even part of the problem. I really dont know where to start and have heard that it could be prop pitch but right now it has a 13 X 13 and I think thats what it came with.

Additionally, I have had problems re-firing the boat after running for a while and shutting down. I had the carb rebuilt and then took it out and to my dismay had the same problem. It shocked me last weekend because I was sure it was the power valve, but again the boat was at operating temp, I turned the key off after idling a bit, and it acted like it was flooded. It starts back up only after letting it sit a bit. I have looked into an electronic ignition module for the distributer but I have a hard time shelling out the money since it runs pretty good.

Any help would be awesome

rook
06-05-2012, 06:42 PM
Some additional notes:

-Motor was rebuilt in 2009 so I am assuming I have good compression but I will check that if need be (am I looking for around 150 per cyl?)

-plugs and wires were replaced in 2009 as well, what gap should they be at?

-boat has the exaust plates not the flappers (I know people have had problems with the medal fin set up but I just dont know if it would cause that much of a loss at WOT)

rook
06-05-2012, 08:48 PM
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A couple pics of this boat....I love it...nicest looking boat in my neck of the woods

rook
06-05-2012, 09:09 PM
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and a few more

86 century
06-06-2012, 03:35 AM
Thats a cool looking sun deck.

I would start by pulling the plugs to see how they look.

You can find a chart to tell you how its burning.

Wile you have the plugs out check the compretion and get her fired up make sure the timing is where it should be.

bens250ex
06-06-2012, 07:50 AM
Mine use to have a problem starting when hot so my buddy check the timing and made a small adjustment now she fires up good at all temps.

michael hunter
06-06-2012, 07:56 AM
CSuggs is having a similar problem with hot starts . He said if he puts ice on the coil it will start immediately . You may want to give it a try if the coil is going bad it could explain the low rpms.

rook
06-06-2012, 10:39 AM
Thanks for the replies. I will pull and check the plugs and re gap if need be. I had it running in the driveway last night and checked the timing. It was right at about 10 degrees of advance at idle. I ran it up to about 3000 rpms and it was still at 10 degres. Is this correct, or should I be getting more advance at higher rpm's? I guess it advances mechanicly as I cant see any vacume lines going to the distributer so maybe its due for a good cleaning? I did check the coil while it was running and it was not any hotter than anything else on the engine so I am assuming its ok. I also noticed that after I shut the thing down it continued to drip fuel into the carb at a pretty good rate. I am assuming this is the reason for the flooding issue and I would guess that I need to adjust the floats. Any helps or tips would be great and again thanks for the input.

sydneyACE
06-06-2012, 01:35 PM
By the sounds of it, I think you discovered both issues (maybe).

The timing should advance at higher RPM. If it's staying at 10*, then that would seem to be why you are loosing power at high RPM.

If it is dripping fuel into the carb after shut-down that is most-likely what is causing the hard-start. Again, you are right, the floats should be adjusted.

rook
06-06-2012, 03:03 PM
thanks for the input. My next question is what would cause the distrbuter to not advance. Is there a trick to free it up or should I start looking fo a new one. If I install pertronix guts inside the distributer will it cure the non-advaning problem?

86 century
06-07-2012, 02:50 AM
If you pull the cap and rotor there are waights that will move as the rpm increases.

Give a look and make sure they move free and snap back when released.

rook
06-07-2012, 12:30 PM
Does anybody have a part number for the correct pertronix kit for this boat?

CornRickey
06-14-2012, 10:53 AM
Nope. The Petronix replaces the points plate above the mechanical advance. At least this is how it was on mine. It's pull the points (if it has them) plate and take a look/see. It might be just a corrosion thing needing a little cleaning.

OUI
06-14-2012, 04:34 PM
It's a mechanical distributor. It has weights and advances when you accelerate. They can stick or get rusted and the weights wont swing out and advance the timing. It's always a good idea to spray a little WD-40 into the screen doors on the bottom half of the distributor. Some screens are on the side and some on the underside of the distributor. Spray some in there and let it sit for a while. Then start it up and give it some revs. Depending on how bad it's rusted, you may need to spray some more and give it more time, or you could be good to go. If you're dripping gas you need to adjust your floats.

Crowther
06-14-2012, 05:50 PM
Have you checked the electric choke and make sure it is opening and closing properly.