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smee17
06-12-2012, 07:48 PM
I hit a stump and damaged the prop and drive shaft. I got quoted around $1450. Around $550 for drive shaft, $140 for rebuilt prop and 6 hours of labor + tax gets me to the total. He said they normally charge 8 hours labor.

Thoughts?

2006 Supra 24 SSV

bens250ex
06-12-2012, 10:33 PM
Rebuild on prop is right on, shaft is a little high I just ordered one for my boat today from skidim for $350. You could do it yourself and knock labor out. Not that big of a deal. Is your strut still straight though?

docdrs
06-12-2012, 10:34 PM
400 new driveshaft, 400 new prop and do it yourself in 2-3 hours max. How is the strut? Plus you should have the alignment checked. All diy projects if your inclined. Otherwise the price is not out of line

wotan2525
06-13-2012, 10:48 AM
Prop shaft can (possibly) be straightened. Strut certainly can. At least pull the parts yourself and have them checked/repaired. A little DIY will save you a bundle on this project and you'll feel closer to your boat when done. ;)

CornRickey
06-13-2012, 11:39 AM
I replaced my shaft strut bushing and switched to a dripless packing on my dd. It wasn't difficult but the strut bushing was a pita. I'm thinking a vdrive would be a real pita especially if you have to drop the rudder to pull the shaft. I would depend on a straightened shaft. After the time spent removing and installing, spent the money on a new shaft. The reason I replaced mine is that it sheared off just aft the strut. The prop wasn't damaged in the previous years . The shaft looked like it was fractured previously and let loose. We didn't hi anything when it happened. I'm thinking it was fatigued due to being off a little.

vvfdfirefighter
04-20-2014, 08:26 PM
Alright, here's the question. I've got a 2000 launch that seems to have a bent shaft. Had an underwater strike which took out the prop and rudder. Now the skag look straight but the boat vibrates pretty good in gear and looking at the shaft seal it looks to be wobbling. So how do I take the shaft out? Disconnect from tranny and pull out through the bottom? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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ssa
04-20-2014, 08:57 PM
On my 95 after you unbolt the coupler from the trans there's a large nut inside the coupler you need to remove then place a socket in between the trans flange and the prop shaft that will press against just the shaft. Then use either some short all thread rod or long bolts with nuts placed back through the coupler and flange and tighten them equally and it will pop the coupler off the shaft. If your rudder is out you can then remove the shaft with the prop on or if the rudder is still in you'll need the prop off. You'll also want the packing nut loosened.

vvfdfirefighter
04-20-2014, 09:09 PM
On my 95 after you unbolt the coupler from the trans there's a large nut inside the coupler you need to remove then place a socket in between the trans flange and the prop shaft that will press against just the shaft. Then use either some short all thread rod or long bolts with nuts placed back through the coupler and flange and tighten them equally and it will pop the coupler off the shaft. If your rudder is out you can then remove the shaft with the prop on or if the rudder is still in you'll need the prop off. You'll also want the packing nut loosened.

Thank you ssa! I figured that was the case but it's always nice to ask before. I also found this video that goes through pretty much anything one could think of when it comes to prop shafts, alignment and bushings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc


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ssa
04-20-2014, 09:19 PM
Yeah that's a great reference. I watched that earlier this winter before I removed all my running gear and did some repairs and repainted everything. Currently I'm waiting on new strut bearings so I can reinstall my shaft and do the alignment.

vvfdfirefighter
04-20-2014, 09:22 PM
I'm in the process of getting this done, weather permitting, on my 2000 launch and 87 Marauder!

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CJD
04-21-2014, 12:44 AM
While your removing the shaft, it's a good opportunity to replace the seal packing and hose...and take a close look at the cutlass bearing.

vvfdfirefighter
04-21-2014, 06:28 AM
While your removing the shaft, it's a good opportunity to replace the seal packing and hose...and take a close look at the cutlass bearing.

Thank you, I'm figuring I'll replace the packing to the drip free style while I have it out. I'm going to replace the bushing and bearings as Well. No use not too since I'll already have the shaft out

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chris young
04-21-2014, 09:09 AM
How timely! I just pulled my shaft this weekend to dye check and inspect it since I lost my prop. I figured I'd replace the strut bearing and shaft log hose while the whole thing was apart, but I wasn't sure how to get it out, I've heard it can be a pain. I felt around for set screws but couldn't find anything, I was planning on looking this up on the net but if anyone has some suggestions for getting that sucker out I'm all ears!

CJD
04-21-2014, 09:30 AM
Of course the log seal hose is just double clamped, so I guess you are talking about the cutlass bearing.

There are several good you-tube videos showing the removal of the old bearing. It is a plastic bearing inside a bronze sleeve. Most of the videos recommend using a hack saw to cut most of the way through from the center into the sleeve in a couple locations around the bearing. This loosens the sleeve enough to drive it out. Make absolutely sure there is no set screw...as most of the time there is one.

The new bearing can be pressed in using a length of all-thread rod with large washers and nuts to pull it in place.

chris young
04-21-2014, 11:24 AM
Thanks, right after I posted I found a few good references, but it's always nice to hear from someone who's done it on the same boat. When I looked at mine, I didn't notice that it was in a sleeve, but it appears all the nitrile bearings are, so I'll have to look closer.

Cheers

ssa
04-21-2014, 01:21 PM
The shell on mine was thin enough I took a thin center punch and drove it in at the edge between the bearing and strut and it basically tore the bearing shell. It took probably 5 minutes to remove both of them.

chris young
04-21-2014, 02:47 PM
Has anybody tried these? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2032B They're a bit cheaper and they appear to be better.

ssa
04-21-2014, 04:45 PM
Those are what I ordered they weren't in when I ordered everything else at the beginning of last week but they got them in Friday and there on there way now. In a week or so maybe I'll able to give some feedback on them.