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sydneyACE
06-18-2012, 01:41 AM
Ok, so my boat has been really hard-starting (starter motor has lots of difficulty spinning it fast enough to fire), but I've just been dealing with it. Every once in a while, if the battery gets too low, it just wont turn over. We originally though the starter was going-out so I took that out and had it tested. It seemed to be working fine though. My brother who is a way better mechanic than I am suggested the timing was too far advanced which makes sense. So on Friday, in-preparation for this weekend, we put the timing-light on it and retarded the timing some. Worked like a charm. The boat started nice and easy, and the starter said "thank you". We ran it on the hose for a while and everything was looking good for Saturday.

Well, Saturday came and I got to the lake, launched the boat, and she fired right-up like a dream, on the first crank. I motored away from the dock and stopped to check under the cover to see that everything was alright. (I had just had the impeller go-out on the last outing so I was a little paranoid.) Sure-enough, I looked, and the pump wasn't drawing any water out of the lake and the manifolds were getting really hot. (I have clear hoses on the water system.)
Very discouraged, I tried checking everything I could think-of to get it to pump. It pumps ok when I disconnected the hoses running from the thermostat housing to the exhaust manifolds, but when I hook them back-up it stops pumping.

Long-story short, I tried everything I could think-of, checked everything I could think-of (obviously checked the impeller), and couldn't figure it out.
My genius brother (on a hunch) tried something though that fixed it. He advanced the ignition a little again. Bam! Intantly started pumping water again. I know it has something to do with exhaust back-pressure, but couldn't believe what a big difference a few degrees of timing can make. Cylinder pressures must still be high-enough when the exhaust valves start to open that it's creating lots of pressure in the exhaust system. (Which overwhelms the raw-water pump with lots of pressure in the exhaust manifold water-jackets, and stops the flow.)

Sorry for the wall of text. I seem to do that every time.

TL;DR: (summary)
My boat was very hard starting (cranked too slowly). Solution, retard the timing slightly.
Raw water pump not pumping enough to cool the exhaust or pick-up water from the lake. Solution, we advanced the ignition timing just a bit because we must have retarded it too much before. (Operator error on an adjustable timing light.)

**Has anyone else ever noticed how adjusting the timing affects the cooling flow? I was very surprised.**

Anyway, I'm just happy I got to get-out and have some fun today without toasting an impeller... even though it was windy most of the day...
I did get some pics for you all though. I will post them up soon!

86 century
06-18-2012, 03:38 AM
The only flaw in this is the exhaust pressure would not change with secondary ignition.

wiatowski
06-18-2012, 04:27 AM
did you put the timing light on it in the water???
Timing should never be done while on the hose... not the proper back pressure. I think.. and don't quote me on this I'll have to check the manual.... timing and idle for that matter, should always be set while on the water and in gear.

michael hunter
06-18-2012, 08:50 AM
127 posts and nothing on your profile? What year, engine, and model do you have ?

sydneyACE
06-18-2012, 12:18 PM
127 posts and nothing on your profile? What year, engine, and model do you have ?

LOL! Sorry, I keep forgeting to fill that in. I'm gonna do that now.

It's a 1984 Rider XL (as far as I can tell the "XL" means it came with a Chevy 350 instead of the 351 or the 454).
Now it's running a Chevy 400 small-block. (Basically identical to a 350 but with slightly larger bore and stroke.)

For all the nitty-gritty, you can check-out my thread in the "Pride and Joy" section. It's called "Travis' 1984 Rider" or something like that.
I haven't posted there in forever, so I will bump-it so it's easy to find.

sydneyACE
06-18-2012, 02:57 PM
did you put the timing light on it in the water???
Timing should never be done while on the hose... not the proper back pressure. I think.. and don't quote me on this I'll have to check the manual.... timing and idle for that matter, should always be set while on the water and in gear.

Yeah, I've heard that before. Unfortunately we forgot the timing light when we went to the lake. I don't know how much difference it would make but it might be worth a try. There is more back-pressure when in the water because the engine has to force the exhaust against the water-pressure of the lake. How much that will effect timing, I'm not sure. My distributor has a mechanical and vacuum advance. Back pressure wont effect the mechanical advance, but I see how that could effect the vacuum a little bit.

Honestly, I'm at the point where I plan to just fine-tune it based on results.
Too much advance and it wont start easily. Too far retarded and there is too much back-pressure (assumption) for the cooling system.
I plan to just tweak-it until it starts easilly and still flows water. :)

Basically, I was just posting in-hopes that someone can tell me how the timing affects the cooling flow so much. I never would have thought that it would make a difference.

CornRickey
06-18-2012, 09:10 PM
Sorry, I don't believe the two are related. Nothing changes except the rpms when timing is adjusted asbit related to the raw water and main pumps. Maybe you had a bunch of impellor pieces blocking the pump and while he was adjusting it it passed the clog and started flowing.

DAFF
06-19-2012, 11:01 PM
Sorry, I don't believe the two are related. Nothing changes except the rpms when timing is adjusted asbit related to the raw water and main pumps. Maybe you had a bunch of impellor pieces blocking the pump and while he was adjusting it it passed the clog and started flowing.

I agree, two seperate issues solved by the timing for the starting and the flow by the piece of the impeller falling back down allowing everything to flow again. I would inspect the T stat area for rubber pieces.

sydneyACE
06-20-2012, 12:13 PM
I agree, two seperate issues solved by the timing for the starting and the flow by the piece of the impeller falling back down allowing everything to flow again. I would inspect the T stat area for rubber pieces.

I appreciated the insight guys. I know it seems crazy, but the timing actually does affect the back-pressure enough to stop the flow.
I took-apart EVERYTHING when I was trying to diagnose the problem. I knew full-well that there were pieces of the old impeller stuck in-there. I took-off all the hoses, took the risers off the manifolds, took the thermostat housing off and thermostat out, to be sure that everything was clear of pieces.

How can I be sure the timing is actually affecting the cooling-flow?
With the distributor hold-down bolt finger-tight, engine running, you can slowly twist the distributor back and forth, and litterally watch the water stop/start flowing. As I said, it was VERY surprising to me as well.

cadunkle
06-20-2012, 12:41 PM
Did you change the thermostat? Retarded timing will make an engine run hotter and advanced cooler. Try running with no thermostat to test flow? Timing will not affect coolant system flow. You have a blockage somewhere or a raw pump/circulating pump problem. Might be worth pulling the risers and checking for obstructions there.