Trailer Buddy Help

[CornRickey]

I've had my SSV for over a month now and have been out 4 or 5 times. My trailer is a tandem boatmate trailer with a trailer mate auto patching mechanism. Everytime I have a problem with getting the bow high enough for it to latch. I have left it back from the latch and once off of the ramp used the winch to bring it up and the angle is off. It pulls the boat forwArd when it needs to pull it up a little for the eyelet to go into the mechanism. I even shimmer up the front edge of the cront bunk about 1/4 inch. It helped a little but didn't solve the issue. The trailer is in new condition and the bunks are solid.

I've messed with different depths of the trailer on the ramp and the shallower the better but I have to almost floor it to get it to latch and it kind of slashes into the pad instead of riding up onto it.

So what does everyone else do with these?

[Salty87]

i don't have one but lots of people have complained. i think many have taken them off.

seems a deeper trailer would work better but whatdoiknow? had a buddy with one, mastercraft, worked pretty well.

[tg0824SSVGG]

Many have complained, some have whined ... I still love mine, and have replaced the rubber part. It's all about the depth and proper angle.

Those that hate it will ALWAYS hate it, those that love it may learn to hate it, but there will always be a small part of them that thinks it is AWESOME!.

Keep practicing. I love that I never get out of the truck at the ramp ... click, and I am off to the top!

[CornRickey]

I want to love it. What's your technique?

[CornRickey]

i don't have one but lots of people have complained. i think many have taken them off.

seems a deeper trailer would work better but whatdoiknow? had a buddy with one, mastercraft, worked pretty well.
The other day the ramp was empty so I messed around a little. I sunk the trailer to get it to the level of the eyelet but it was obvious that that wasn't the way to do it. The whole trailer was under water with the tow vehicle at the watering.

[CornRickey]

I shimmed the front of the front bunks and feel any more would require to shimmed the rest. Anyone try this method?

[Salty87]

The other day the ramp was empty so I messed around a little. I sunk the trailer to get it to the level of the eyelet but it was obvious that that wasn't the way to do it. The whole trailer was under water with the tow vehicle at the watering.

how far do you normally back in?

sweet spot for my trailer/tow rig combo is the rear tires of the truck 3" or so past the waterline.

[jeffreyk573]

Corn,
I had about the same problem it sounds like your having. I have a 24SSV, and it was a nightmare trying to put this boat back on the trailer. What I did to pretty much eliminate the problem was buy a ball mount with more of a drop. Completely changed the angle of how the boat comes up on the trailer. I had tried trailer deeper in the water(almost lost both truck and boat), that didn't work. Trailer not deep at all, boat way too heavy to just winch. I had been trying to use a 2"drop on my 3/4 ton Dodge. It was just too high. Very simple fix. I have to say that my boat buddy doesn't work at all, and I probably wont fix it. Hope this helps.

[CornRickey]

Good idea!. I'm not using a drop from my 95 F250. The boat trailer is level when it tow. I'll switch to my drop hitch. That makes sense. I never have gone by how far my tow vehicle was to the water due to differences in ramp and angles. I have always gone by how far my trailer fenders were in the water. I'll give it a try...

[tg0824SSVGG]

I back in the get the bunks wet - then I pull forward until the top of the fenders are about 2" underwater. This is the part where it varies depending
on the steepness of the ramp - most people tend to go in too deep. It's a "concert" between truck driver and boat driver - both need to learn to recognize
when it's lined up correctly and have signals if not.

When it works, it's a beautiful thing - back down, boat on - drive away to go secure the rest of the attach points -- people staring, I love it .

[CornRickey]

wet bunks go without saying. You try to do it once dry! My wife isn't confortable yet (its only been 12 years with boats) backing in or loading the boat so its a one man show for me. I think the drop hitch is the ticket though for my situation. My SN likes to have just the top of the fenders underwater. I have bow stops on it so I ride on just short of them, through the turnbuckle on and drive up, then winch it tight. If I don't then the rub rail get screwed up when the bow rides up on the stops.

[jclose8]

Almost everyone that has issues with a boat buddy backs their trailer in TOO FAR. The boat needs to be able to ride up on the bunks so that it raises the nose of the boat to the proper level. You will have to power it up a bit, but with practice it won't be a ton (definitely not the obnoxious Bass boat power load style).

Another reason to have it out of the water a bit is so that the boat can self center more easily. The bunks are positioned so that they integrate perfectly with the chines on the hull. I come in really slow until I feel the boat center itself, then I give enough power to move forward and just meet the release on the boat buddy. You pretty much have to go all at once, though. If you go halfway up and then stop, it's virtually impossible to get the boat moving again. You might as well back up and try again.

It's worth it to learn. The thing is awesome when used as intended.

[Diggs]

Your backing your trailer in too deep. Back the trailer all the way in as others above had said. Get the bunks wet and then pull the trailer up right to the point you see the fenders cresting the water. This will work at most ramps. The issue is many people are scared to drive up their bunks. They are meant to be driven on. Do the above and it will set in perfect every time. I know some with the 24SSV may have a valid complaint and changed their trailers, but I have never seen another Supra not line up perfectly. They are a love / hate thing and once you figure it out you will love it.....

[Diggs]

Oops did not go to second page and read Jclose8 statements. I agree 100% obviously.....

[CornRickey]

I'm hoping a drop hitch will help but not really confident it will. I have tried as posted in the last and the boat is almost fully supported by the bunks (100% in the front) and the bow just rams into the hitch about 3 inchs to low. I have to force the bow up causeing the bumper to leave marks on the gell coat.

[Diggs]

It has nothing to do with your drop hitch.... (well could but you are talking minute measurements with a drop hitch) Bottom line is your trailer is too deep.... Look at what you said above..... Your front is on the bunks. If your rear is still floating you will be higher in the back and still ramming your boat buddy. Pull your trailer out further, get the entire boat on the bunks and drive up the bunks. You will hit perfectly every time. It is next to impossible to miss it if you are completely on your bunks. Make sense? Hope that helps.

[haugy]

:D :D :D

Winch, bow roller, done. No marks, no stuck latches, no damaged fiberglass.

[tg0824SSVGG]

Whatever loads your boat hoagy -- only 2 times with my monster 24SSV have we "missed" and not had a good load, and those were both at ramps
way steeper than we normally use - so we didn't get it just right. I love it - but can understand why some don't. Do whatever makes you have fun - if loading
causes stress, then change the way you do it, even if that means taking the buddy off and putting on a roller - life's too short to let a trailer mess it up.

[haugy]

my monster 24SSV

Exactly. Come try that in a low bow running classic. Cruuuunch. There is a reason the older boat trailers had the wedge poles for the bow. Not nitpicking or hating, like you said, go with what works.

[Bkrobz]

I didn't like mine at first and was going to switch it out then had a buddy show me how his worked one day. I've never looked back and it works great. Makes for a quick launch. I'll launch and retrieve by myself, never get wet, and be quicker than others without it.

I have an 07 22ssv and I don't know how much the trailers vary but I'll back the trailer in until the tips of the front bunks are just water level. My trailer fenders are typically a couple inches under but this varies ramp to ramp. I have noticed that it has always worked for me by gauging my trailer depth by the front bunks no matter what ramp I'm on. The bunks center the boat and it takes just a little power to get it to latch. The only time I've had issues is when I forgot to set the latch... whoops.

Just be gentle until you are used to it. I've see others give it too much power and the latch still works, but it jerks the truck and the boat. Definitely makes me nervous. It does help to make sure the mechanism is well lubed and working smoothly and you want to replace your bunk carpeting if it gets thin anywhere.

Good Luck.

Oh yeah, also keep people out of the bow. It drives up much easier if there is less weight up front.

[CornRickey]

Thanks guys. I had my buddy get it on the trailer today so I could have a better view of trailer depth and angle. It clicked the first time.

[CornRickey]

I've been working on this and it seems that the more "flat" ramps give me the most issues. I'm thinking the friction on the hull is the issue. Has anyone put on the friction strips you see in Overtons?

[HIFLYR]

I back in the get the bunks wet - then I pull forward until the top of the fenders are about 2" underwater. This is the part where it varies depending
on the steepness of the ramp - most people tend to go in too deep. It's a "concert" between truck driver and boat driver - both need to learn to recognize
when it's lined up correctly and have signals if not.

When it works, it's a beautiful thing - back down, boat on - drive away to go secure the rest of the attach points -- people staring, I love it .

You saved me!!! I read your post when I made the deal for my 07 24SSV last week and was able to load up with minimal problems the first time and by the 3rd time it was no big deal. Still looking forward to my marine railway into my boat house being finished next month then loading on the trailer will be a thing of the past.

[Rusty Griswold]

There is a post out there from a few years ago where someone had the diagram of taking off the boat buddy lowering about 2inches and putting on a roller. That is what I did and that solved my issue.

[CornRickey]

I was looking at doing that, just lowering the mechanism a couple inches. What I did was put 3/8 ply under the front bunks and halfway down the middles. It made a huge difference.

[HIFLYR]

There is a post out there from a few years ago where someone had the diagram of taking off the boat buddy lowering about 2inches and putting on a roller. That is what I did and that solved my issue.

Why did you have to lower it? I went and bought a 3 inch poly roller today and was going to swap it out this weekend just to eliminate the hassle.

[jzelt]

The reason to lower it 2" is because just replacing the buddy with a roller, you still have to postion the trailer just right.
I lowered it 2" and should have done it years ago when we bought it. Only issue is the hook now goes under the roller when winched up, so you have to float the boat, then loosen the strap, push the boat back some and unhook it when launching. But loading the boat looks like we did with others we have owned. No messing around with trailer depth at ramps we had issues at with this boat in the past.