Warm starting issue

[Hagman]

I have a warm starting issue. The 351 will start easily cold. When it is a operating temp the motor can be turned off and restarted with just the touch of the key. But if it sets for more then 5 to 10 min. I will need to grind the starter for at least 5 seconds.
10571

[csuggs]

Sounds familiar - many have been having similar issues including myself. I'll be interested in seeing what everyone has to say.

[haugy]

Here's a scenario I'm also familiar with. I got mine fixed on the Mariah, now dealing with it on the Salt.

Here's a question. When you start it hot, does it help to pump the throttle? Mine does. I can turn and turn the key and it would take about 7-8 seconds before it starts and would run a little rough till I gave it some gas to flush out the carb. But if I start it, and give it a lot of gas, it fires up and runs fine. This would lead me to believe my fuel is boiling or evaporating out of the carb overflow vents over time.

I think my carb floats need to be adjusted up a bit to allow the engine to run a tad bit more rich. This should provide more fuel to the intake upon starting to allow it to fire up. My Mariah would always start on the first turnover, but she also had the slightest rich smell.

I can't see the problem being anything electrical as long as your points and plugs are good.

Anyone else with other ideas? Since Csuggs won't chime in with his. :D :D

[kvand347]

I agree with Haugy's theory. Mine runs very similar. Pump the gas twice after sitting for awhile and she starts up. No pumps and she will just turn and turn. Haugy if you adjust your float and it fixes your problem, please let us know!

[Salty87]

never hurts to clean/tighten battery connections & block ground. cables original?

[haugy]

Salty, on my end (don't know about the OP's) but it's not electrical. My starter, cables, plugs, wires, etc are all new. And you can tell when you hit the starter on my boat, it hits and turns like there is no compression, no resistance.

That's why I'm going to try and address the fuel issue. I'll keep ya posted KV

[DAFF]

5-10min rest always would double pump by instint, including my older trucks. I think it is just a carb thing combined with evaporation. Double pump activates the accelerator pump and gives 2 fresh squirts of fuel. Tap the key anf vrum.

[CornRickey]

After a couple minutes of sitting, take a look at the venturis. See if there dripping. Also try touching a 12vlt source to your coil while cranking, bypassing the resistor (if you have one) If that helps then you have a heat/resistance issue in your harness or your starter might be going south and drawing more amps than when cold.

[OUI]

Make sure your timing is correct. If it's too far advanced it will have a hard time starting when it's warm/hot.

[haugy]

Make sure your timing is correct. If it's too far advanced it will have a hard time starting when it's warm/hot.

Interesting, I haven't checked my timing this year. I shall do that and come back with results.

[csuggs]

Here's a scenario I'm also familiar with. I got mine fixed on the Mariah, now dealing with it on the Salt.

Here's a question. When you start it hot, does it help to pump the throttle? Mine does. I can turn and turn the key and it would take about 7-8 seconds before it starts and would run a little rough till I gave it some gas to flush out the carb. But if I start it, and give it a lot of gas, it fires up and runs fine. This would lead me to believe my fuel is boiling or evaporating out of the carb overflow vents over time.

I think my carb floats need to be adjusted up a bit to allow the engine to run a tad bit more rich. This should provide more fuel to the intake upon starting to allow it to fire up. My Mariah would always start on the first turnover, but she also had the slightest rich smell.

I can't see the problem being anything electrical as long as your points and plugs are good.

Anyone else with other ideas? Since Csuggs won't chime in with his. :D :D

Haugy - I was hoping someone would say exactly what you said and what I'm seeing on this thread because that's what I think it is too. Mine is acting just like yours. It's def not electrical in my case, gotta be the fuel. If I give it a couple shots, she starts. OUI mentioned the timing issue. I know we advanced mine soon after I purchased the boat, but I don't recall where we set it. What are some of you guys setting your timing at?

[tstruth]

Hey guys,

I have the same problem. I thought it might be a overheating issue. Changed impeller and still the same. Set points and timing 6 BTC. Still the same. New coil, still the same. Cold she starts instantly. When hot I pump a couple of times and she kicks over. I would guess it's a carburetor issue.
Rebuild in the fall.

[CornRickey]

I'm not getting the idea of adjusting the floats so it runs richer?

[CornRickey]

Try running a 12 volt source up to the coil disconnected. Then it acts up touch it to the coil and see if it makes a difference. These older boats build up resistance when they get hot you may not be getting a strong spark.

[Hagman]

OK I’ve been watching this thread hoping someone would come up with something NEW.
I have tried.
New pcv valve
Adjusting the chock form rich to no chock
Bypassing the resistor to the coil ,new coil
Electronic points
Timing changes
Wedge plate to level up the carb
Changing the float levels up and down
Adjusting the idle air rich to lean
New carb
Extra fan in the engine compartment
½ thick plywood carb gasket to keep the carb cooler ,,that works pretty good at cooling the carb but didn’t help the starting any.
I had a 1978 Ford Van with the same Engine and carb that I put over 150,000 miles on over about 10 years never touched it, that would start most every time with just a touch of the key.
Well I’ve been dealing with this for over 26 years it’s probably a issue that’s not going away with out going to EFI. Thanks guys
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