hotgrips
07-15-2012, 01:12 AM
The original coil checked out ok on an ohm-meter at 8060 ohms and 1.9 ohms. I bought a new one anyway at NAPA - same type meant to use with external resistor, and it checked out at the same ohms anyway. Still no spark. removed the grey tach wire, no benefit- no spark. Created seperate ground from ignition coil body to ground - again no spark. Carefully removed distributor points plate and inspected and cleaned the centrifigal advance mechanism in the distributor, though that would not cause a "No spark" condition. All looked ok there.
QUESTION: There are two wires going to an electric choke on the carb, that has nothing to do with spark does it? (I didn't think so).
The negative and positive terminals on the ignition coil continue to both read positive 12.5 vdc. Puzzle on that one.
The starter motor will turn over normally regardless of whether it is in Neutral, Forward, or Reverse. Could I have fitted my wires to the wrong terminals on the starter relay? Does it matter which of the heavy two cables go on the starter relay. It seems it doesn't matter since they are an "open circuit" circuit and when the starter relay is energized it simply touches the two large wires together, sending 12vdc to the starter motor. Could I have used the wrong small terminal on the starter relay? Would that matter? One of the small terminals on the starter relay has no wires on it, as I recall just like when the boat was before. Anything I could have messed up with wires on the starter relay that would cause a "no spark" condition?
I continue to remove items from the Supra Mariah as I restore it. The only rotten wood was the small plywood section ahead of the engine. Though today I did find another bad piece of wood in the carpeted tray beneath the Teak wood between the rear seats. That carpeted piece was very tight in position, and I thought that I needed to remove the rear seats ahead of the fuel tank to get it out. So I removed them and had a chance to do more inside inspection. All looks fine. Some of the fuel line hose clamps have rusted apart but I have a supply of those on hand. Discovered the carpeted piece behind the engine just lifts out, gaining access to the driveshaft all the way to the fuel tank. Able to inspect all that underneath the seats and all looks perfect. Had to remove the rear platform for some fibergla work, as one year my wife manage to catch the stainless steel bar with our tractor and rip it off the platofrm, along with some chunks of fiberglas. Any ideas on an alternative to replacement of the platform's SS grab bar? I straightened the bent one out reasonably close to original.
Jim in NH
QUESTION: There are two wires going to an electric choke on the carb, that has nothing to do with spark does it? (I didn't think so).
The negative and positive terminals on the ignition coil continue to both read positive 12.5 vdc. Puzzle on that one.
The starter motor will turn over normally regardless of whether it is in Neutral, Forward, or Reverse. Could I have fitted my wires to the wrong terminals on the starter relay? Does it matter which of the heavy two cables go on the starter relay. It seems it doesn't matter since they are an "open circuit" circuit and when the starter relay is energized it simply touches the two large wires together, sending 12vdc to the starter motor. Could I have used the wrong small terminal on the starter relay? Would that matter? One of the small terminals on the starter relay has no wires on it, as I recall just like when the boat was before. Anything I could have messed up with wires on the starter relay that would cause a "no spark" condition?
I continue to remove items from the Supra Mariah as I restore it. The only rotten wood was the small plywood section ahead of the engine. Though today I did find another bad piece of wood in the carpeted tray beneath the Teak wood between the rear seats. That carpeted piece was very tight in position, and I thought that I needed to remove the rear seats ahead of the fuel tank to get it out. So I removed them and had a chance to do more inside inspection. All looks fine. Some of the fuel line hose clamps have rusted apart but I have a supply of those on hand. Discovered the carpeted piece behind the engine just lifts out, gaining access to the driveshaft all the way to the fuel tank. Able to inspect all that underneath the seats and all looks perfect. Had to remove the rear platform for some fibergla work, as one year my wife manage to catch the stainless steel bar with our tractor and rip it off the platofrm, along with some chunks of fiberglas. Any ideas on an alternative to replacement of the platform's SS grab bar? I straightened the bent one out reasonably close to original.
Jim in NH