Soft spot in floor

[Robby05]

Well we've had the boat for 2 years now, the guy neglected it pretty hard before we got it. The price was really right so I new it was going to need some love. Carpet was wasted. Finally decided to replace it this year and check out the floor issue. I was suprised at how much damage was done to the floor board. When I ripped out the floor board there was standing water between the stringer and the exhaust pipe. Wondering how to check to make sure the stringer is okay? Looks like I have a project on my hands. The floor on the other side of the boat seems solid. Should I break it open also just to inspect? Any input would be great. Thanks.
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[TitanTn]

The odds are not in your favor. Most likely you're looking at needing stringer replacement. You can drill low into the stinger and see if you pull out mush or dry wood. Do it in several places. You an easily epoxy the holes closed later, but I'm guessing it won't matter...

Nice looking Comp! Definitely worth saving.

[Robby05]

O yea its worth saving. Got it for next to nothing and its my first ski boat. Love how the thing drives and haven't found a better looking boat in the water than a comp. Here's a thought, what if I band-aid the floor repair and tackle the stringers over the winter. Feels pretty solid around the motor mounts. Could I risk having a bad structure failure or something down those lines. Really want to do a full resto on the boat. Would like to use it while the weather is nice.

[TitanTn]

Can you tighten the motor mount bolts? If you can tighten them down without them spinning (not biting into anything), then yeah, I'd say you can do a temp repair for the rest of the summer and tackle this over the winter. And you're right, the Comp is a beautiful boat.

[michael hunter]

The band aid sounds like a plan to me . As long as the stringers around the engine are solid try to make the season. Where are you how long is your season?

[Robby05]

Located in Spokane, Washington. We usually run into late September. First year with the boat the weather was mild in the fall. We were waterskiing into the first week of October :)

[Robby05]

Who knows what time it is ?!!!! I do its STRINGER time !!!!!:grin: Did some expolritory surgery on the beast today. Wasnt too suprised at the damage after reading the threads about the soft spots in floors of these boats. Well it looks like we wont be on the water this year. The rot in the stringers is up to the motor mounts. I was suprised at the amount of water under the floor and how the foam is like a sponge. What is the purpose of the foam? Gonna have to clean out the garge we have a real project on our hands. Got some big plans for the interior and engine. Going to rebuild the engine while it is out. Does anyone have any input on power combos to make some more power out of the 351. Also I have a spare 454 in the garage. Any thoughts on setting the big block in the boat? Ill take lots of photos and keep everyone updated on the progress.
Thanks for the input,
Luke
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[TitanTn]

Sorry man. But it's not too surprising.

You'll find several different opinions on why there is foam, but the punchline is that you don't have to go back with foam. Some have theorized that it helps with sound deadening, rigidity, and/or flotation. Guys have gone back without foam and not had any issues with sound or rigidity. No one has tested the flotation question, but the general consensus is that the foam isn't going to float the boat. So do some reading and see where you fall in the "do I foam or not" camp.

My opinion on the engine, is to tweak on the 351 if you'd like more power. I don't think you'd want the extra weight of the 454 and the manifolds that go with it. You can get plenty of power out of the 351, and by changing the prop you can get as much stump pulling power as you want.

You're in the right frame of mind...lots of pics and updates!

[Robby05]

Thanks for the info Titan. Probally going to leave to 454 for another project. What secures the stringers to the floor? Are the just held in place by the fiberglass? Another question is how do I prevent water from getting under the floor in the future? Im not too upset about the whole deal. Kinda like projects like this. Keeps me away from doing all the honey-do's if you know what I mean.

[DAFF]

Pull the cap and remove one side of stringers at a time. Once you start and get a feel of how fibreglass works the project will turn out to be fun and a little itchy. PS thanks for saving onother from the grave.

[TitanTn]

Thanks for the info Titan. Probally going to leave to 454 for another project. What secures the stringers to the floor? Are the just held in place by the fiberglass? Another question is how do I prevent water from getting under the floor in the future? Im not too upset about the whole deal. Kinda like projects like this. Keeps me away from doing all the honey-do's if you know what I mean.

There's an epoxy mixture called peanut butter that secures the stringers to the hull. Another alternative is PL Premium, but it can get expensive. Once the stringers are gooped to the hull, you'll use fiberglass to wrap from the hull to the stringer. Do a search on this forum and you'll find lot of rebuild examples with pictures. You can also check out this guy's Youtube channel. http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL02C318B574CD948D&feature=plcp

He goes through an entire stringer rebuild and videos the whole process. There are many variations on how to do this, so do some checking around. Once you get into it, you'll see its not really that complex of a job. It just takes time.

As far as keeping water out again, this is why most guys don't go back with foam, and they cut limber holes in the stringers to allow any water to drain into the bilge area. The original design was flawed and lasted 25 years. With some minor changes you can easily make it outlast you.

[bens250ex]

Look at my tread . Just completed my stringer job a couple months ago on my comp. Get familiar with uscomposites.com they got best prices on fiberglass supplies. Let me lay a couple questions to rest for you 1. Use Douglas fir lumber for new stringers 2. Use epoxy resign if you really love the boat. 3. Don't put foam back in it. 4. Take precise measurements of everything .

[Robby05]

Thanks Ben, just answered the questions I was pondering last night.

[86 century]

The foam is there in so the boat will meet the coastguard regs on flotation when it was new.
You are in no way required to put it back it.

Was thinking the other day about if making the area between the stringers into ballast tank would be worth wile.
If you built the stringers out of some type of composite like the post '92's what could it hurt.

Or is there not enough room to mess with.

The coastguard says any vessel under 20' must have a positive buoyancy factor meaning if the boat is swamped its not suppost to sink.

[Robby05]

Gonna resurrect this thread because its finally time to dive into the boat. Was working over in North Dakota for the last year & a half or so. Didn't have the time to mess with the boat. Now that Im back home for good I cant stand seeing the ole girl just sitting next to the garage. Hopefully have the cap off in the next two weeks. Ill post pics & probably a ton of questions.

Another question is a ballpark $ figure on the stringer replacement? Im doing all the labor just curious on the price of supplies.

[lively]

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[Robby05]

Thank you !!!