Need a rebuild kit for a 351 windsor

[tallnfast]

I plan on doing a full rebuild on my motor this winter.

does anyone know or have a link to a rebuild kit for this motor?

i went to skidim.com but couldn't figure out what i needed.

i assume i need a rebuild kit for marine application?

any advice would really help

also i don't know what rotation i have or how exactly to tell

i know my left from my right but don't know if it's looking forward or rear?

thanks!

[cadunkle]

The only marine components you need are whatever touches raw water and may contain metal. Typically head and intake gaskets. Go on summitracing.com and look up rebuild kits there for a 351w. A quick look didn't turn up may marine rebuild kits there, so you'll likely have to buy all your components (pistons, rings, bearings, etc.) individually.

Head gaskets: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-17060/
Intake gaskets:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-17360/

Everything else can be standard automotive parts. I would recommend forged pistons, given the severe duty of a marine application. Measure you bore taper before ordering pistons adn rings, so you know how far you have to bore and what size to order. Raise the compression some, to around 9:1 if factory is below that. Around 8:1 - 8.3:1 dynamic compression is a good target to run pump 87-89 commonly available on the water. Your engine is standard rotation. Only parts the matter for rotation are crank (knurling on rear main seal area) and cam (valve timing). Since you are standard rotation you can run any normal automotive cam. If you change the cam (I would) you should keep it very mild but go with a nice modern lobe profile grind. Should be looking for 5000-5500 RPM peak on cam depending on whatever else you may do to the engine.

I would port the heads while it's apart... It's free power. Do your port work before having the valve job, in case you nick a seat. Might be worth port matching the exhaust and possibly cleaning up the exhaust ports in the manifolds for a little more power. Probably not worth touching the intake since you'll be at or below 5500 RPM. A Edelbrock Performer would be more or less same at stock, but lighter. If you slalom primarily you may want to go aluminum to lose 20-25 lbs... If you do wake sports, you want the extra weight of iron engine components so don't bother.

[tallnfast]

thanks so much candunkie
about how much should something like this all cost me if i do a lot of the work by myself and with the help of a mechanic friend i know?

thanks again, anything else you would recomend me doing while i'm already doing this much?

tallnfast

[92SupraComp]

just by a full rebuild kit from summit. they are around $200-$300. they include all new rings, seals, gaskets, etc. every thing you need to REBUILD. not modify. if you want to modify thats a whole nother project.

[cadunkle]

92SupraComp, those are re-ring kits, not a full rebuild like the OP said he wanted. If you're going to re-ring you need to disassemble the engine and measure the taper in the bores. .007" is absolute max to re-ring and I feel even that is pushing it (the rings will wear fast and burn oil, with that much taper). If you're doing a full rebuild, not just a freshening up, it makes sense to do some performance work, it'll give more HP and better fuel economy.

tellnfast, depedning on how extensive you go it could run anywhere from $1500-2500. Figure $700-$1000 in machine shop work (in my area) depending on what you bottom end and heads need, but machine shop prices can vary widely by region. Keep in mind for a small block new performance heads are cheap, around $1000 or less. So if your heads need a lot of machine work and parts, it may make more sense to buy some mild performance heads ready to run for a few hundred more.

While the engine is out, replace the damper plate. Cheap insurance since they don't last forever. One piece oil pan gaskets are freakin' awesome... Totally worth the extra $20. Put good gaskets in it, oil leaks in a boat suck.