PCM Protec Ignition issues???

[Supra+]

1991 Supra TS6M 351W PCM 518 total hrs Electric Protec Ignition (Coil Packs No Distributor).
Okay So the boat starts and idles fine jumps up to about 2200 rpms no problem but after that its like its in limp mode and wont allow anymore RPMS. misfires the more fuel I give it. As long as i stay at or below 20mph (2100 rpm) engine runs fine and strong. Once I give it any throttle or fuel past that it starts to rev limit. I have heard of this problem and just wonder what to do to fix it. Any and all input would be greatly appriciated.

[jeffreyk573]

You have three different sensors that send info back to the Pro Tec module. Any one of these can send your ignition into "limp mode", which is what you describe. I had this system on my 92 Saltare. I suggest that you call Vince at DIM(skidim.com). He is practically a genius on how rotten this ignition system is. He helped me a lot, and I'm sure he can walk you through troubleshooting your problem. Good Luck

[kreckley]

Vince is very helpful but their kit is 2x more than it should be I converted my 92 saltare 454 for 330 including the 60 for wires and it was easy. I boat on a large lake in Ky that is not a place where you want to get stranded. The computer is not your friend. Get it simple with conversion and enjoy the boat. This conversion will take an hour. Been there

[Supra+]

Vince is very helpful but their kit is 2x more than it should be I converted my 92 saltare 454 for 330 including the 60 for wires and it was easy. I boat on a large lake in Ky that is not a place where you want to get stranded. The computer is not your friend. Get it simple with conversion and enjoy the boat. This conversion will take an hour. Been there

Yes I will ounce it dies completely which i am sure will be soon. I did figure the problem out...it was the thermostat sensor putting it in "limp mode" I hate to go backwards with a retro but at the same time I like simple versus complicated. I have all the Oscilloscopes to work with electric ignition and sign waves and timing and blah blah but I dont want to spend the time it takes to work on complex electronics I would rather be skiing On the Snake res. Now I just have to kick my kids butt for getting in the boat and leaving the bilge pump on. .............it melted the switch :mad:

[kreckley]

I understand the feeling of going backwards because that was the way the boat was delivered. But who says the new tech at the time the boat was built IS better than the old ttried and proven. I see in my field moving to some newer materials that on paper look better but don't perform better. The final goal for me is great power, good running, and reliable motor I can fix on the spot without guessing about the complex issues. Those things were brought from automotive to improve safety, possibly efficiency and complexity so you can't work on it. If your car quits, call your friends or wife for a ride. Stranded on a big lake sucks and those folks may not have a boat to rescue you. I don't mind my hotrod burning fuel. In fact it is now more fuel efficient now with NO computer and a using a 60000volt coil. OUCH! Never smoother

[92SupraComp]

if you convert. just by a D.U.I. they are built well and have marine grade units. they are around $380 and are very simple to do. you should look into them.

[cbrian2]

i had the same problem after i bought mine new, i removed all the junk and installed a marine mallary dist and coil. boat has ran perfect since.