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jasun
09-07-2012, 07:41 PM
Any one know what a DIY Stringer Job would cost on a Saltare or similar boat?

Just looking for those who have done it and what they spent in materials for stringers and floor...


I have a decision to make on the boat I just bought.

Mounts are strong, but found in front of the motor on the passenger side, there is a spot where the glass has come off and the stringer is wet.

Any help is appreciated.

TitanTn
09-09-2012, 05:54 PM
A lot of that answer depends on you. What type of materials are you going to use? The general consensus is that it'll cost between $2,000 and $3,500 if you do it yourself. Between $4,000 and $7,000 if you pay someone else to do it. The good news is that unless you're going to take off work and knock it out in a month, the project will be spread out and so will your costs. Search this forum about stringer jobs and you'll find lots of advice, cost estimates, times estimates, etc.

jasun
09-09-2012, 06:21 PM
Perfect! Thanks for the info! I see you have the exact same boat so if I need any help, ill know who to call!! ;-)

jasun
09-10-2012, 03:05 PM
Another question... how many cubic feet is under the deck that needs foam?

Jetlink
09-10-2012, 03:53 PM
Another question... how many cubic feet is under the deck that needs foam?The answer is zero... Foam is the nemesis of these old classics. Most people that do a full cap off restoration on these boats go no foam on the rebuild. I will be joining that club when the time comes for my rebuild on the comp.

jasun
09-10-2012, 03:57 PM
This will probably bring up some interesting responces but what about swim noodles?

Do you not do foam so that it does not get soaked again?

I am interested to see what everyone thinks!

wotan2525
09-10-2012, 04:47 PM
Cost can be anything you want it but $2500 is probably a fair place to start. Once you start with the stringers you'll want all kinds of new stuff. I just always plan on replacing anything I take apart with new/rebuilt items. In the case of floor/stringer, you have to take everything apart so you might as well start with everything new when it goes back together. Start saving!

docdrs
09-10-2012, 04:52 PM
i believe foam is need fro any boats under 21 ft for USCG cert. Towboat mani's put foam in to meet stricter NMMA cert.

Jetlink
09-10-2012, 06:11 PM
i believe foam is need fro any boats under 21 ft for USCG cert. Towboat mani's put foam in to meet stricter NMMA cert.

If that is the case then it really only applies to comp and conbrio owners I think as sunsports and up are longer than 21 feet. In this case, the owner having a saltare they wouldn't be subjected to the rule either.

TitanTn
09-10-2012, 08:05 PM
It's actually defined as boats "under 20 feet." So even a 20' foot boat is not required by USCG standards. But your point is well taken. It's certainly not required for a Saltare, and most doing the restoration do not reinstall the foam. Installing noodles is a common aluminum boat rebuild process. In my opinion, their boats are light enough to be positively affected by the noodles. I just don't see noodles keeping a submerged, fiberglass boat afloat.

http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2007/julqtr/pdf/33cfr183.220.pdf

jasun
09-10-2012, 09:14 PM
@titanTN

Did you put the foam back in?

Iknow the noodles probably wont help it float, but will it help add to sound dampening?

TitanTn
09-10-2012, 09:25 PM
@titanTN

Did you put the foam back in?

Iknow the noodles probably wont help it float, but will it help add to sound dampening?

I didn't do a complete cap-off restoration. Mine didn't need it. The foam I pulled out was not replaced though. Based on my experience, and what I have read here on this forum, you won't miss any sound-deadening characteristics by not replacing the foam. Most guys that do a cap-off do not replace the foam and no one has regretted it from what I've heard.

wotan2525
09-10-2012, 11:17 PM
I added the foam back and regret it. I added it back to add structure for the flooring and to keep everything "tight." It was a dumb thing to do. It's probably holding water right now.

CornRickey
09-10-2012, 11:40 PM
Can you imagine the cost to recover a boat on the bottom of a deep lake? I'd foam it and glass the crap out of it.

jasun
09-11-2012, 10:44 AM
Has anyone got any expanding foam left? I say we put this to bed once and for all and do a test.

cadunkle
09-11-2012, 12:22 PM
Can you imagine the cost to recover a boat on the bottom of a deep lake? I'd foam it and glass the crap out of it.
That's insurance problem. CG does not require it. If it's over a certain depth I'd imagine they just leave it. Nothing to be gained by pulling out a wet wood boat if the cost is substantial (more than the cost to repair).

CornRickey
09-11-2012, 06:29 PM
There's no way the EPA would allow a boat with hydrocarbons to be left on the bottom of a lake around here. I would also question if the Insurance company would not question as to why the boat sank and if it was altered as much from factory specs trying to not cover it.

TallTex
09-12-2012, 06:14 PM
Another question... how many cubic feet is under the deck that needs foam?

I would use Aero Marine products in rebuilding, restoring a boat project, use one of their fillers to their epoxy resin to use in most any application, thin to thick, two part foam is closed cell so it never absorbs water.

http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/boat-foam.htm

jasun
09-13-2012, 08:08 AM
This is from US Composite's website on the 2lb foam:

2 LB Density Urethane Foam
(U.S. Coast Guard Compliant Marine Foam)
Common Applications: Our 2LB density marine foam is recommended for void filling in nonstructural applications. This product can be poured underneath decks and inside cavities where a lightweight flotation foam is needed to provide buoyancy. This foam has been tested in accordance with U.S. Coast Guard Regulation # 33 CFR 183.114 . This foam is approximately 95-98% closed cell which resists absorbing water, however continuous water submersion can eventually lead to loss of buoyancy over a period of years. We recommend this product strictly for flotation applications. If looking for a liquid foam for sculpting or casting we recommend using at minimum our 3LB or 4LB density. More questions? [Try our

I like the idea of leaving the foam out

devovino
09-21-2012, 10:54 AM
I anticipate doing some stringer ballast work this winter to my Saltare, and had not anticipated putting the foam back in. I also plan on putting in under floor ballast system, and wonder how much air vs. foam had the ability to not only displace water, but provide buoyancy? I plan an making a closed system under the floor that will be full of air when empty, and should provide buoyancy as much as foam does, until it fills with water, which is inevitable and at that time becomes a insurance issue as you stated above. Either way, just a comment as I am forward thinking.

TitanTn
09-21-2012, 11:18 AM
Look at these photos: http://www.facebook.com/ken.helfrich.5/photos

Especially the ballast tank and floor album. The bottom line is that there's not much room for ballast under the floor, but it has been done. And none likely any better than this guy.

devovino
09-24-2012, 11:07 AM
Yeah Titan, I followed this dudes thread for a in fact he was my inspiration in installing under floor ballast. However my our Saltares are a bit bigger than his rider, and I plan on "remodeling" from under the rear seat, all the way back to the transom to provide more room for weight (Cross that bridge when I get there) but I should be able to get a good amount of weight. So either way Kfelcher did an outstanding job, and have taken a lot of notes and have some solid plans on what I am planning on installing this winter, time permitted......