Winter Wiring Project

[csuggs]

I am planning a project for this winter that I wanted to do last winter but the "honeydo" list got in the way. With everything else being new or restored on the boat, I want to attack the wiring as the "final" item that hasn't been gone through. I also want to add a second blower forward of the motor to force fresh air into the bilge instead of simply relying on the exhaust blower. And finally I may add a sub-woofer and a couple of tower speakers to my existing MB Quart stereo.

So I "bit the bullet" and ordered a new wiring harness and 10' extension with connectors from skidim as well as a new 3" blower. The wiring harness was a little pricey, but since the original is 27 years old and because of the fact that I only want to do this once . . . I went for it.

Here's a current pic of what things look like up under my dash:

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/DSC03463a.jpg

I may decide to change from push-button switches to toggles, (not rockers) because I just like toggles better, so I will need to find some high quality toggles. All of them should be SPST on/off switches with the exception of the "Manual Bilge" switch which I think should be a momentary switch. Any ideas on this? Here's how my dash is laid out.

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/DSC03163.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/DSC03164.jpg

[csuggs]

In the above pics of the dash panels I think I will wire the red indicator lights to work when the switches are on (they are not connected now), but the amber warning lights I think I will just remove and plug the holes with black plastic hole plugs.

[csuggs]

I currently have 2 batteries on the boat, both of which are relatively new (one cranking and one deep cycle). Presently they are wired to a Perko switch so that the alternator only charges the battery that is selected for use (or both if the switch is in the both position). The trouble with that is that I normally run the boat on the cranking battery and then turn the switch to the deep cycle battery when sitting in a cove if I want to run the stereo. While the switch is easily accesible from the driver's seat, would it be better to just run the engine and gauges off the cranking battery and the stereo and bilge pump off the deep cycle? Then charge them through a battery isolator of some type that would automatically determine which battery needed charged . . . . I don't quite know how this works. Has anyone here done this and have some advice or suggestions?

Here's a pic of the current battery setup which is all below the center OB seat right next to the driver.

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/DSC03158.jpg

[wotan2525]

I've gone out with wire cutters and my multi-meter several times to start tracing and cutting the dashboard wiring. Every single time I chicken out. It's just SUCH a mess back there.

I admire your courage, but if it currently works, I'd leave it as is. Your dashboard looks great and if you're not planning on a completely new dash (doesn't sound like it) I just don't see much benefit.

Your batteries, however, need a new system. I've used the BlueSea Add-A-Battery system in my boat and a couple of friends boats and I like it a lot. It has a perko-style switch that has ON-OFF-ALL. The isolator makes sure that the starting battery gets charged before it kicks over to the "house" batteries. If you have a charging/battery problem, you can flip over to the ALL position and still start the boat. It's never failed me and I haven't been stranded due to dead batteries since I installed that system and an on-board charger.

[csuggs]

Thanks Wotan, I'll check out the Blue-Sea thing. That sounds like what I'm after, especially if you've had good luck with it. The dash wiring doesn't bother me a bit. I used to trouble-shoot and rewire industrial machinery controls (both 12V and 120V). Everything on the dash is working with exception to the hour meter which works intermitently. Also, there are a few "live" open-ended wires under there that I've grabbed a time or two.

[Jetlink]

Wotan, the dash wiring wasn't all that bad when I went through the comp. And I had to end up replacing stuff and tying it at the correct spot too. Took me two days of a weekend to go from zero to hero. How bad is yours?

[sybrmike]

Don't let the wiring intimidate you - it's really not that bad once you get started. Although, that original style dash is so good looking, I'd hate to put even a fingerprint on it. I'm a mechanical, not electrical, engineer & yet I managed to rip out all of this

11326

and completely reconfigure and rewire my dash to end up with this without a pre-built harness. You'll be fine...

11327

Yes, a voltage sensing relay, VSR, would automate your manual switching. I installed a SurePower 1314 (instead of a BlueSea) & battery switch. The only time I touch it is to switch to All Off so the dual bank battery charger can independently charge each battery.

[csuggs]

What harness did you buy? All new wiring from engine to dash?
I bought the harness and extension from skidim, it's a PCM harness. So, yes it will be all new wiring from motor to dash.

[csuggs]

I'm curious. I shoulda asked before...so you're replacing all the way to the fuel sender, transom lighting and rear exhaust as well? Bow light?

No. The lights, fuel sender, etc was all replaced during the rebuild because it was easier to do then . . . And probably because it got messed-up during the rebuild. I'm replacing the engine harness and all control wiring. So everything from the engine to the dash and everything under the dash will be new.