I need pictures, lots of pictures.

[haugy]

Okay guys, I need a favor from the old and the new crew.

From the old schoolers, primarily the Saltare drivers I need pictures of your boat in the resto process. Mainly looking for gutted empty boats, with and without engines, no floors just stringers, no stringers, etc. I need as many as you've got.

From the new schoolers, I need V-drive pictures and engines. I need pictures of engines, front and back, V-drives from every angle you've got. Engine bays and storage hatches. Anything you can think of from keel to stern involving driveline.

If you have any pictures that fit into these categories, or you think they do, please post them up. I need reference material, lots of reference material.

I would really appreciate it. I know I'm the resident boat nazi, but this would pretty much put me in the hotseat so y'all will be able to rip on me for ages.

[csuggs]

Are you thinking what I think you're thinking?

I'll see what I have for you tomorrow! :p

[sybrmike]

Finally, that GE turbine, Vdrive, surface piercing prop job we've been waiting for. Or was it the Caterpillar drive retrofit from the Red October sub? Can't wait to see what happens. I'll try to dig some more up, but here's a few to start...

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[sybrmike]

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[Jetlink]

Wait, Haugy, a Saltare owner (unless he purchased something new under the radar) mentioning the word V-Drive in the same sentence as Saltare... Hell must have really frozen over. Let me know if you want a sea ray looking seat for your boat as well dude! Hahahaha!!!

[sybrmike]

11377 11378 11379

[Jetlink]

Haugy, you should look at swapping out the 454 for a good old Pratt and Whitney PT-6-42A motor or the like... Those engines usually put out 750 SHP (shaft horse power) in a derated form.

[haugy]

Mike, thanks, any of the motor in there before you put the seats in? I'm trying to get some size references. Any chance you know what angle our driveshafts sit at coming into the transmission? I don't have an angle gauge anymore (apparently running them over is bad for them).



Are you thinking what I think you're thinking?
I'll see what I have for you tomorrow! :p

Nothing is definitive yet. I'm an engineer at heart from a military family. I don't do anything without a plan first. But I may be coming into a time where if I'm going to do anything big, it will have to be now or never.


Wait, Haugy, a Saltare owner (unless he purchased something new under the radar) mentioning the word V-Drive in the same sentence as Saltare... Hell must have really frozen over. Let me know if you want a sea ray looking seat for your boat as well dude! Hahahaha!!!

Hey hey hey, let's stay focused here. I only use Supra parts, and if they aren't Supra to start, I will modify them so they look like Supra when I'm done. :p


Haugy, you should look at swapping out the 454 for a good old Pratt and Whitney PT-6-42A motor or the like... Those engines usually put out 750 SHP (shaft horse power) in a derated form.

454's have tons of hidden power in them. Ya just gotta know where to squeeze.

Thanks for the pictures guys, please keep them coming. Really hoping to get some V-drive pictures in here as well.

[haugy]

Mike,

Do you have any pictures of right before you put the floor on? And more of the floor?
What size wood did you use for the engine mounts? 4x4?
Once you made your cut outs for the exhaust, what is the pipe that runs hidden in the stringers made of?
Do you have any pictures of the stern of your boat with no stringers, stringers, rudder, etc? I'm trying to see the clearance above the rudder assembly. As well as how much depth and room I truly have back there. 454's are tall.

I noticed you went no ski pole (or at least in the pictures) did you have to redo the mount for that as well? What is the mount made of? Mine would have to be relocated.

[chrisk]

I can't wait to watch this happen, good luck

[haugy]

Alright, I grabbed a bunch of pictures from Salty87's refit as well. I'm putting them in here so I have once thread to reference.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/overhead.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/P9240075.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0291.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0218.jpg

[haugy]

More

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0289.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0301.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0386.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0393.jpg

[haugy]

Last batch

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0484.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0518.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/DSCF0107.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/IMG_0521.jpg

[haugy]

Anybody know the dimensions of their fuel cells in the Saltare? I don't think any of my reference material has the dimensions LxWxH of the tank. Only that it's 40 gallons.

[haugy]

Another picture for me to be able to reference in one thread.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/230_2_120.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/2001v-drive164.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/2001v-drive161.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/customcj7/2001v-drive166.jpg

[wotan2525]

I thought it was 44-46 gallons?

Anyway, I've never seen those photos of the foam put in before the floor. That's a different way of doing it! I've only seen it done where the floor is installed, then holes are drilled in it and foam pumped in (that's the method that I used.)

[haugy]

You're probably right on the gallon capacity, but I'm good with whatever it is. My question now is can I fit it down the center keel without it covering my drain plug, but being far enough forward for a V-drive to reach the shaft. My thoughts are no.

I would like to build a custom made one for the bow to offset weight, but don't have the skills to do it, or now any companies that can. $$$$ being the factor here. The more I can use from the boat already, the better the chance I have of actually starting this project.

[chrisk]

Where's the original thread for that Nautique you're showing pictures of there? Also, I know your first priority with your builds aren't watersports as much as just restoration, but you should consider building ballast tanks into the stringers like JHelfrich did for that Rider he sold on here a while back. Would be really cool to see an 80's Salty V-Drive with in-floor ballast. I know you've probably thought of every possibility for this build and then some so have patience with me (and others) giving our input, this is a dream project of mine.

[chrisk]

Great photos of stringers, floor, and in-floor ballast install here: http://suprarider.shutterfly.com/pictures

I know it's not a Salty, but it can be inspiration, none-the-less.

[sybrmike]

Do you have any pictures of right before you put the floor on? And more of the floor?
Don't think I have any with all the cross bracing installed :(, but here's some more just prior to the engine...

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What size wood did you use for the engine mounts? 4x4?
I built up a stack of 6-8 pieces of 3/4" ply set on edge like the stringers with layers of glass between each

Once you made your cut outs for the exhaust, what is the pipe that runs hidden in the stringers made of?
I reused the stock stainless steel pipes - actually just heavy wall tubing (~.083"?). Originally, the pipes were locked in place by the poured foam. Since I went back foamless, I cut the openings fairly tight to the pipes (a little too tight at first & couldn't get the hoses connected) & then went back and wedged EPDM weatherstripping in the gap to keep the pipes from rattling.

Do you have any pictures of the stern of your boat with no stringers, stringers, rudder, etc? I'm trying to see the clearance above the rudder assembly. As well as how much depth and room I truly have back there. 454's are tall.
Coming up

I noticed you went no ski pole (or at least in the pictures) did you have to redo the mount for that as well? What is the mount made of? Mine would have to be relocated.
I remain pylonless - wasn't gonna be too functional in the original location with the new interior layout & couldn't come up with an elegant solution for putting a pylon behind the new bench seat. So, I went with a TitanII tower - stainless tubing, heim joints, and reinforced the hell out of the underside of the cap at the mount points. So far, still no movement or cracks while pulling 3 person tubes or shortline slalom.

[sybrmike]

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[sybrmike]

Rudder

11391

[chrisk]

Who were your questions directed toward, Mike?

[haugy]

Where's the original thread for that Nautique you're showing pictures of there? Also, I know your first priority with your builds aren't watersports as much as just restoration, but you should consider building ballast tanks into the stringers like JHelfrich did for that Rider he sold on here a while back. Would be really cool to see an 80's Salty V-Drive with in-floor ballast. I know you've probably thought of every possibility for this build and then some so have patience with me (and others) giving our input, this is a dream project of mine.

Actually yes, ballast is going to have to be a key component in this design. Another reason I want the fuel in the bow if I can work it. The total weight of engine, tranny, and v-drive will be about 780lbs, all in the stern. In order to counter that weight I'm either going to have to run the full in the center of the boat with a bow bag or weights. Or put a custom built 40gallan cell (250lbs of fuel) into the bow to offset the weight.

My initial thought is to to put the fuel center keel, and then have an adjustable weight system in the bow to work it how I want it without it being permanent. Hydraulic trim tabs will really help control a lot of this as well. But as for wakeboarding ballast, I will have the design so I that I can add two bags near the engine sides which would easily put it 1200lbs in the stern. And then with maybe a 500lbs bag in the bow that should help balance it out.

Blue Nautique V-drive conversion in detail thread (http://nautiqueowner.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15448&PN=1&title=2001vdrive)


Great photos of stringers, floor, and in-floor ballast install here: http://suprarider.shutterfly.com/pictures
I know it's not a Salty, but it can be inspiration, none-the-less.

Are his ballast tanks fiberglassed into the sides of the floor? Is that what I'm seeing there? I'm not sure I'll go that same route.

[wotan2525]

My gut tells me no on fitting the gas tank in the center, in front of the prop-shaft but behind the fill plug. Measure this area and we'll know how "close" you are.

It can't be that hard to locate a fuel tank (or 2) that would work, though. Here's a west-marine page with a TON of options. I'd just put one on each side of the bow. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_27595_-1?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=27595&cid=sc_googlepla&gclid=CNf-rMnUjbMCFYYWMgodTTYAJg

[haugy]

My gut tells me no on fitting the gas tank in the center, in front of the prop-shaft but behind the fill plug. Measure this area and we'll know how "close" you are.

It can't be that hard to locate a fuel tank (or 2) that would work, though. Here's a west-marine page with a TON of options. I'd just put one on each side of the bow. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_27595_-1?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=27595&cid=sc_googlepla&gclid=CNf-rMnUjbMCFYYWMgodTTYAJg

Same here, I don't think it will fit. Yeah Moeller has a bow tank that holds 39 gallons, so I'm going to measure that out. If I do put a bow tank, finding a good spot for an overflow/breather vent will be tricky. As well as a fill point that doesn't stand out or look bad, and is easily accessible.

I'd rather not do two tanks for a variety of reasons, one is the plumbing alone. It would have to be very solid and easily accessible in case of leaks or problems. Two hoses and connections equals twice the leak points. As well as once one tank is empty, I'd have all the extra weight to one side at that point and the boat would constantly lean until it balanced out.

[wotan2525]

I'd rather not do two tanks for a variety of reasons, one is the plumbing alone. It would have to be very solid and easily accessible in case of leaks or problems. Two hoses and connections equals twice the leak points. As well as once one tank is empty, I'd have all the extra weight to one side at that point and the boat would constantly lean until it balanced out.

Actually, I would do it in a very simple way. Just connect one hose from the bottom of 1 tank to the bottom of another and call it done. That way you can put your pickup and gauge on either side and it will always be the same level. Motorcycle tanks are commonly done this way to keep fuel balanced from the left side to the right side.

[haugy]

Actually, I would do it in a very simple way. Just connect one hose from the bottom of 1 tank to the bottom of another and call it done. That way you can put your pickup and gauge on either side and it will always be the same level. Motorcycle tanks are commonly done this way to keep fuel balanced from the left side to the right side.

But I would need a protected hard line across the tanks I would think. I don't think having rubber hose that dips down or does any turns would keep it level....?

[DAFF]

As long as the fluid heights stay above the hose it will gravity feed to a equalibrium. Filling both tanks with one fill tube might get tricky and time comsuming.

As for project Valtare gut the old girl and have the Trans engine ready to go. From there you can build as you go around the new powerplant. Personally the hard thing will be the interior. Lots of time with plywood, foam and vinyl are in your future. NTM this will be where you spend lots of the budget..... Unless you have the patience to learn to sew too. I have been on the hunt myself for a industrial sewing machine. I figure having one in the basement will be benificial to my building projects.

[haugy]

Okay, I spent a lot of time in the boat this weekend. Just sitting in her while drinking a beer in the shop, and then one last run on Sunday before winterization.


I can't do it. I just can't gut the ole girl. She's in too great of shape now to do it to her. The history of this boat, and where it came from to what it is now. I just can't destroy her for my personal wants. I've been kicking ass to get it in this shape, and the stringers and floor are in great shape.

I can't take a Rolls-Royce and swap in a diesel because it's more convenient. That's just wrong. I'm too much of a die hard to do that to this boat. Not to mention, I'd be the biggest hypocrite this site has ever seen. I could no longer give you guys hell for not keeping these girls stock.

So I shall save my Saltare from the knife. To keep her original (except the tower). She will stay this way until fate takes her away from me.....................however.

I will not pass up on another free Saltare like before. Unfortunately work/time/etc would not allow me to go and get that one 10hrs away from me. But I won't do that again. I won't cut up a perfectly good boat. I just won't. But I will cut up a boat that is already dead, and in need or resurrection.

Yes, I will happily bring one back from the dead, in a more amazing way. It will be the "Spawn" of Supras (comic book reference).

So now I watch and wait for that perfect opportunity of a boat that is dead, beyond dead, that is looking for help. Challenge Accepted.

[TitanTn]

Good choice Haugy. I've heard you approach this topic several times and I'm glad you haven't embarked on the journey yet. I'm a little sentimental too, and I hate to see a perfectly solid classic cut up to mimic something modern. But something that might be headed to the graveyard... watch out!

[chrisk]

Should be fairly easy to find a terrible Salty but a great canvas right now I would think?

No sense, in ending the thread while people have ideas, something to keep our brains stirring through the boring months...

Haugy, yes I was suggesting fiberglassing the ballast tanks into the floor like Jhelfrich did. I know there are plenty of cons to this, but also the convenience is off the charts as well. Saves you storage, bag problems, etc.

Also, I would do everything I can to get the gas tank in the middle of the boat. The one thing I really don't like about my DD is that if I drive her for a whole day the wake changes so drastically because 30+ gallons of gasoline get drained out of the back of the boat. Having that weight in the middle would still change the wake, but not as drastically. Plus, you would obviously have ballast bow and stern so you'll be able to easily customize the wake to the situation. I'd go 4 bags and 4 reversible pumps. Each bag in a "corner" of the boat and the pumps would give you complete control.

[sybrmike]

Selfishly disappointed (I really wanted to see this done), but understandable. I don't feel guilty for changing mine up a bit, but like you said - I was bringing one back from the grave so any reincarnation was better than letting her continue to rot. I hope you find the right shell and time to do this someday...

[jzelt]

Yeah! Save the one that works so you can use it while you Frankenstein another from the grave yard. 2 boats saved...

[Wylietunes]

Im in awe of the projects illustrated in this thread. Awesome work!

[Moose]

Any new developments on making this project a reality. I'm looking forward to seeing a v-drive conversion on an old supra. Mine is probably due for some floor and stringer resto in the next few years and v-drive has rattled around in my brain a couple of times.

[villain]

im not sure where haugy stands, but this is one of my dream projects. i guess step one would be to find a salty for about 4-5k. the biggest thing would be to make sure the prop shaft through hole didnt need re plunged. i have done this a few times with old school flattys, but turning over a 23' hull might be a bit of a challange.