Stereo Upgrade

[IndyMatt]

I am wanting to add an amplifier to my exsisting factroy installed kenwood/sirrus sound system. Im going to mount the amp on the divider inside the battery compartment. Any recommendations as to where I should ground the amp? How about the +12v? I want to avoid anything that puts drain on the battery when not in use. I am contemplating using the same +12 that the head unit is on so the draw will be eliminated when I turn off the accessory dash switch. Can I ground directly to the battery? Or is it better to ground a wire at the main motor mount ground? The ground on the motor mount runs directly to the negative battery post, so does it matter? Any suggestions would be helpful.

[99 LAUNCH]

I installed a second battery in mine and added a isolater. The isolater charges both batteries when motor is running and seperates the batteries when motor is off. The second battery I added only runs my stereo system . I have two amps, one 12" sub, two 6x9's, two 6.5's, and two 6.5 tower speakers. I have not had any poblems. Run the ground directly to the battery and the same for you're power wire.

[Surfside Dan]

any amp should be wired directly to the battery. It will not drain any power unless it is on. The blue wire on the back of the deck turns the amp on and off when the stereo is turned on and off.

You should have a 4-6 or minimum 8 guage wire run directly to the battery with a fuse inline.

[IndyMatt]

With any marine application, I wouldnt be comfortable unless I could isolate the draw. I am familiar with car audio, and know all about the instant on (blue wire). Any time you have a source attached to a battery, there will be a minimal draw, even if only enough to complete the ground. Thats why the eng of your +12 lead sparks when you touch it to somthing metallic. I agree that in car audio applications you connect to the battery with a low guage wire for the purpose of reducing resistance and increasing available voltage. The same would be true in a marine application. However, if your not using your boat daily like you would your car... you will be overtaxing the electrical sytem. I hate the idea of installing a second battery, but that probably is the only way to truely isolate the source. Im also not very happy with my mounting options in regards to the two 10" subs I wanted to install. I want somthing integrated into form and function, not just an inclosure tossed into one of the compartments. With that being said, I may just stick to the original plans of upgrading all my factory stuff and skipping out on the extras.

[Salty87]

why no love for the second battery? in a true marine application, you'd have at least 2 along with dual bilge pump, blowers, etc.

[IndyMatt]

I dunno... somthing, somewhere tells me I should reserve some room for skis, wakeboards, ropes, fenders, vests, anchor and of course the extra case of beer.

Im still curious about replacement 6.5 to 6.75 speakers. There is another post on here but I can always use suggestions if anyone has any luck.

[Salty87]

i've been watching that thread too. i'm looking to replace my infinity's 6.5's, i wouldn't recommend them. they sounded good but lasted the shortest of 3 sets of 6.5's i tried.

i like my secod battery, doubt i'll have another boat without two. it is worth it's weight in wake and much more.

[IndyMatt]

There is a speaker mentioned on one of the other postings. Its a marine application, 6.5" by audiobahn. I forget who left the post, but they swear by them. They look pretty cool but as to sound... who knows. They are priced lower than most of the more 'name brands' but some reviews would be appreciated if anyone knows.

[silvtongdvl]

Stay away from the audiobahns - don't last at all. I built tower enclosures for a friend and he used them. 3 sets in as many months.
Look at MB Quart - they are 6 3/4" and sound great. I wouldn't buy less than the reference series. Try www.ikesound.com and other dealers - e-bay has lots of dealers selling them at a reduced price compared to your local hi end shop. I have gone 2 seasons with my MB's and they are still going strong.
~S~

[IndyMatt]

Great... Thanks!! Ill do some surfing today and see waht I can find.

[DKJBama92Mariah]

IndyMatt,

When there isnt +12v going to the blue remote turn on lead, the amp WILL NOT draw off the battery. There is an relay in the amp the cuts the circuit when not in use. DO NOT attempt to hook an amp to a switched 12V power source. Chances are if you do, the amp will pull too much and either blow a fuse or melt the wires. The only safe way to do what you are suggesting is to install a heavy duty relay on the +12v lead of the amp that is triggered by power from the ignition. Doing so would be quite pointless because the relay in the amp already does the same thing.

Cheers,
DKJ

[IndyMatt]

Thanks for the info & your right... there is a relay that regulates 12v draw inside the amp. However, the relay's purpose is to protect the amp from voltage irregularities and spikes during startup, switching on and off and possible ground loops. The point is, and the thing that Im trying to get around is that the only way to truely isolate the power source is to run from a second battery. If I used my boat every day, I wouldnt worry as to the regular cycle and charge of the battery. There is always some draw (minimal) when electrical components are attached in line wether they are in use or not. That is the whole point of disposable annodes on I/O applications where you have increased water to metal contact. If there is any doubt about this, apply a voltmeter to the gound of one of your components (with the battery installed of course) and you will see a small current. Thats also why when you have several electrical components attached to one system, its not uncommon to get an accelation whine through your stereo when running your motor. Its causing a ground loop and needs to be isolated.

~Anyway... thanks everyone for the replys. I think im going to upgrade my factory speakers and stick with my factory Kenwood/Sirrus head unit for now.