1985 Supra Comp TS6M

[Supra_Comp]

Hi All,

In the process of putting in new floors/foam and an engine replacement in my 85. My Comp does not have the original captains chair and it is getting tired (not very comfortable any more!)

Does anyone have leads on a seat that would fit my boat? Anyone know if the new models fit? ANyone have one for sale that is in good shape that doesnt have too many funky 80's color schemes!?

Also, what is the best option for carpet? I have used Home Depot's indoor/outdoor stuff before (can't beat the price) but everything else I find is at least $2.50 CAD/sq ft. Any other alternatives?

Any info is appreciated!

Also....here's a photo couple of photos of the motor out and the foam being ripped up.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130209-00121_zps90746cbe.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zps94ef585a.jpg

[TitanTn]

I'm sure there are a lot of seats that will fit, but I can't give any specific recommendations. Good luck on the project, it looks like you've got a good start. You mentioned new floors/foam, but didn't happen to say anything about the stringers. I assume you're replacing them too?

Keep us updated with photos.

[Supra_Comp]

The stringers for the most part are pretty solid. There is only a couple of spots that are soft (near transom and foot well near drivers seat). I am replacing the crossbraces on the stringers as they were bare wood and were soaked/rotten.

I was looking at your photos. How did you glass in the floors where it goes underneath the section of the deck that becomes the interior (where the speakers usually go)? That is my biggest area of concern as I want to have those tied in properly.

Also, how did you get to the transom like that, cut out the rear storage compartment?? How did you re-install? This would make working back there way easier!

[suprasam]

He did what most people do.....a cap off restoration. If your going into and you know parts of your stringers are soft and you have the time you might as well do the whole thing, almost a waste not to at this point I would think. Once the cap is off the locker goes with it and gives you space to get to the transom and the bow sections. Good luck.

[TitanTn]

Actually, I didn't do a cap off. My stringers were solid except for under the engine where the PO had screwed brackets into the stringers to hold the fuel and water lines. Water wicked into the stringer there and rotted it under the engine. I had no water anywhere else and testing the stringers in other locations brought out dry wood.

So I repaired the stringers under the engine, replaced cross-members under the floor, and tabbed in a new deck. I added cross members under the dash and tabbed them between the stringers and the hull. I then matched up the deck and fiberglassed the new to the old. The end result is very strong and it's held up very well.

I'm not sure how your rear storage is built into the Comp, but in my Saltare, it simply can be unscrewed and lifted out. Every winter I've found some reason to tear it down to just the deck and work on something, and yes, it's very handy.

Although I didn't feel compelled to do the full, top-off restoration, I still encourage you to make sure you know the condition of your stringers. It's certainly better to fix all issues once than to go through similar processes twice.

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks Titan.

I did some investigation and for the most part the stringers are in good shape and I did have my marine mechanic do a second inspection on them.

The rear storage area in my comp is glassed in (looks like factory molds). I may have to cut the bottom section out create a bolted connection so that I can take it out in future as I have had the gas tank out before and it was near impossible to do it leaving the storage compartment in.

Still, how did you fiberglass your floor boards? Did you just put resin over top or did you use fiberglass mat? On my comp, the floor boards went underneath the section that was part of the deck and had a thin layer of glass which tied them into the hull.

Did you glass the floors into the hull? What was your method.

BTW...nice boat! Same color scheme as my Comp TS6M.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/P8060118.jpg

[TitanTn]

Nice photo!

You definitely don't use just resin. You need actual fiberglass too. I recommend using 1708 fiberglass for structural work like joining the deck together. Don't be scared to use plenty of resin as it will soak it up and needs to be fully saturated. It's not hard to use more fiberglass and resin than the factory did, and that's not a bad thing.

As far as attaching to the hull, I left a small tab of the original deck and fiberglassed back to that. I was able add more fiberglass to the hull joint than what the factory did, and I'm confident that it's stronger than it ever was.

[Supra_Comp]

Ok good to know. I had to rip the floor out right to the hull because it was all rotten through and it wouldn't of been a strong structure at all so know I have to figure out how to glass the floor boards back into the hull (original looked like just a single layer of matt/resin). This might be tricky!

I phoned Supra in Texas and they told me that the rear storage locker was bolt-in on certain models but for the Comp is was fiberglass construction. Looks like I am cutting it out!

[Supra_Comp]

Update....

Part of the stringers are coming out. Rotten through in a few sections so I will be cutting in new pieces. Will post pictures once the boat is in its net temporary housing.

[TitanTn]

You gotta keep feeding us photos...;)

[Supra_Comp]

Here's one just to keep you guys looking....

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/666441.jpg

[Supra_Comp]

Updates. More foam and floor coming out. Alost had to cut out the ski locker to get out the junk under the gas tank, will be building a new custom removable locker.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zpsc9ba2b0e.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zps636eaa17.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zps5103ac1f.jpg

[TitanTn]

Congrats on your progress. I just shake my head every time I see the quality of fiberglass work from the 80s.

[Supra_Comp]

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

[TitanTn]

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

The stainless backing plates worked well. My platform is very stable, and I think reversing the direction of the bolts helped too. If I had to do it over again I'd make the plates much larger. It doesn't hurt to overbuild this area as it takes a lot of pressure and the factory didn't build a beefy transom.

I used a hardened enamel paint. The right thing to do is to used bilge kote http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119 but I felt that my bilge would see MUCH less oil, water, etc than a bilge from a cruiser and the extra expense wasn't justified. So research and make your own decision.

I got my carpet from Ingles Carpet in Dalton, Ga, the proclaimed carpet capital of the world. The quality is excellent and the price was too. I'm local so I just picked it up, but there are several forum members that has purchased over the phone and the carpet was shipped. It's worth comparing against any local options you have, but I've been very pleased. I would definitely get some true marine carpet versus anything at the big box stores. The difference is worth it and the cost is minimal. I think I paid about $120 for all my carpet and glue. http://inglescarpetinc.com

[Supra_Comp]

Great info, thanks Titan.

So parts of my stringers are solid and others are rotten. Would it be best to cut out the bad sections and glass in new? Or just replace the whole stringer with fresh timber? Kind of a dumb question but its worth asking.

Also I assume that the pieces that crossed between stringers....it would be best to make those go right to the hull and glass them in for extra support? I think I saw Jet and Titan do it on their builds.

[TitanTn]

I really don't think you'll want too many sections graphed into each other. Small doses might be okay if you know you've removed all the rot and the remaining wood is 100% clean. If you have more than a small section that needs repairing, your best bet is to replace the whole stringer while you're in this deep. You don't want to be back in the same position in two years.

You don't really need to run the cross braces to the hull (in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull). The biggest thing is to repair the rot around the area where they bisect the stringer and then fix it so water can't get in there again.

[Supra_Comp]

(in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull).

What is the best thing to put in between the hull and the stringer...just some PL premium adhesive?

My other thought is that I work in the sheet metal/hvac business and in between the duct flanges we use a a gasket material that comes in a roll. It bonds but does not cure (stays somewhat flexible) and is only about 1/8" thick and is waterproof. Would this be a possible solution for bedding before fiberglass is laid?

Also, what is the best option here. Epoxy resin and 1708 tape? I have see and read so many different options.

[TitanTn]

Oh boy, you've stirred up a can of worms now! What type of fiberglass and what type of resin...

I don't think you need to introduce a new material to the equation. The standard construction materials are more than adequate, especially if used properly. The wood should not touch the side of the hull and should be at least bedded with PL or peanut butter. I'd consider not bonding to the side of the hull regardless since the contact patch will be so small and it's not really necessary.

The general rule is that epoxy sticks to everything and poly sticks to poly. Your boat was built with poly, so you're fine to use that. Epoxy is more expensive, so if poly does the job, well then...

But some people will argue the better bonding strength of epoxy, and it's true, but it's usually connected with bonding epoxy to other types of surfaces. I'm not sure that anyone has been able to prove that an epoxy to poly bond is significantly better than a ploy to poly bond.

1708 is a structural glass. It's very strong, but is very hard to wrap around corners, angles, etc. My favorite combination is having both 1708 and chopped strand mat (CSM) on hand. Coupled with a clean bonding surface, and plenty of resin, CSM is also strong and shouldn't be viewed as completely inferior to 1708. They each have their place.

I hope that helps some. I know there is a lot of confusing information out there about fiberglass and resin.

[Supra_Comp]

Titan,

Great information there.

I will probably stick with the PL premium bedding method for the stringers to ensure they do not contact the hull, and the same for the floors. Since I did not do a top off restoration, it would be impossible to glass in the floors to the side of the hull so my thought is to put PL premium on the top of the boards and slide it under the lip of the interior wall and leave it off of the side of the hull. This way I am getting another form of adhesion as well as protecting any water from going over the edges of the floors and into the foam.

So I assume the best method would most likely be to use the 1708 on the sides of the stringers where it meets the hull and then use the CSM on top and lay it over the top of the stringer. I read on another forum it is best to use a router to round the top of the wood or use a table saw to cut a 45* chamfer on either side to allow the matte to fold over easier, truth or a waste of time?

[TitanTn]

What you describe is similar to how I installed my floor.

It is tough to wrap the CSM if you don't bevel the edges at all. But it doesn't need to be much, and you don't want to bevel it too significantly as it reduces the contact your floor has with the stringer. Some people have just fiberglassed up to the top edge and then come back with a strip on the top of the stringer. I'd suggest testing a piece of your stringer material before getting it in the boat and establish a process for getting it wrapped in glass that suits you.

[Supra_Comp]

For sure, there will be a lot of test fitting. I think I may create some compartments so that there is added structure and the stringers are tied together. I am still going to test the stringers to see what areas are bad and what has solid structure that I can work with.

I'm going to work on the boat tomorrow so I will post some updates then.

[sybrmike]

I'd recommend completely sealing the stringers, you don't want water touching the old or new wood and starting the rot cycle all over again - so I second Titan, bevel the top edges of the stringers so the glass will lay over. Lots of way to skin a cat (or stringer), but as an example: I used poly resin and chopped strand for a bedding compound (but have heard of PL used successfully), beveled the top edges, used roven woven and cloth to completely wrap the stringers to the floor. Then once floor panels were cut and glassed both sides, I laid down a strip of saturated CSM on top of the stringers, and placed the panels down. Then quickly predrilled and filled screw holes with resin before screwing the panel in place. Once all the floor panels were down I glassed the seams and recessed screw heads. Mine was a cap off, so can't speak to the floor hull joint. Good luck!

[Supra_Comp]

I guess this could be called progress....

I will post photos tomorrow but looks like this is going to get ugly. I did some testing on the stringers and also the engine cradle and looks like it all has to go....the only solid wood is stuff in the bow area.

What did I get myself into.....

[TitanTn]

We know the feeling, but hey, you're this far and while it's a little more work now, it'll be nice knowing that it's all done when you get it completed. Just take it a step at a time and it'll surprise you how fast it can go.

[Salty87]

replacing larger sections will probably be easier than a bunch of patches. it will definitely be a higher quality job.

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

Photo evidence of the rot

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130227-00159_zps0c46ce7a.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130227-00161_zps8f212124.jpg

[Salty87]

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

although you want to end up fairly close in the up/down range the engine mounts are fairly adjustable. the more important location to focus on is front/back. the mounts can't make up for being too far forward or too far back. but, pretty close is good enough. don't sweat getting everything exactly perfect. that's one of the nice things about rebuilding...with few straight lines or 90 degree corners you don't have to be perfectly accurate. it's a daunting project but it ain't rocket science.

as to the stringers, there's a line of thought that plywood is superior. the grain of the wood in the layers of plywood are alternated as the sheet is assembled. dimensional lumber obviously can't do that. once the stringers and bulkheads are assembled, positioned in the hull and glassed in with the floor on top...does it make a big difference? probably not.

PS...you gonna try to pull the cap? i can't imagine doing stringers with the dash, etc in the way. the mess made from grinding will be a nightmare to clean if you don't cover things very well.

[Supra_Comp]

I was thinking about pulling the cap but I don't think it is feasible for me. The stringers extending from the engine cradle become solid in the bow area (under neath passenger seat) so I am thinking that instead of cutting them out all of the way I will be building the new stringers up to the old and then joining them by a tabled splice joint, a ton of resin, and a ton of 1708 mat for structure. Basically the same build that Jet completed...https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?8193-OK-here-goes-89-Supra-Comp-Floor-Resto/page5

http://autonopedia.org/crafts_and_technology/Wood/Woodworking_joints_files/300px-Woodworking-joint-splice.gif

I will be taping everything off so that no dust/debris gets into any dash equipment.

What size wood should be used for where the engine mounts? I was thinking something more substantial would be essential here.

[Salty87]

rather than sandwich many layers of plywood, that's an area where i used lumber....4x4 pressure treated but very dry.

[TitanTn]

rather than sandwich many layers of plywood, that's an area where i used lumber....4x4 pressure treated but very dry.

I agree. Plywood is fine for the stringers if that's what you want to do, but dimensional lumber is my preference for the engine cradle area. I used a collection of 2x6 and 2x4s trimmed to size I needed.

To your other concern about getting the cradle back to it's original dimensions, I understand your concern, but I agree with Salty that you need to try your best but sometimes close it good enough for this work. Take lots of pictures and measurements.

[Jetlink]

Close was more than good enough when this thing was built originally in the factory... I think all of us classic owners can attest to that statement.

[sybrmike]

For getting the engine area correct (well, mostly correct), I made cardboard templates that followed the contours across the engine mount blocks, verticals, and hull in three places - easier than measuring from no reference in open space. The drain hole and shaft log make good reference points for fore & aft measurements. As an alternate to dimensional lumber for the engine mounts, I used sandwiched layers of glass/ply/glass/ply/glass/etc.

[Supra_Comp]

Keep the comments/suggestions coming!

I will be taking the photos and measurements on Sunday...there will be some serious surgery happening! I think I like the idea of dimensional lumber or the engine cradle, it may add a bit of weight but seems like a better structure.

Did you guys coat the lumber in resin before laying fiberglass overtop?

[Supra_Comp]

Just ordered a fiberglass foot well (not my boat in the photo lol) and a couple of new decals for the interior to make it look new.

http://images55.fotki.com/v585/photos/8/1878338/10571512/P4030959-vi.jpg
http://garzonstudio.com/i/capacities-decal-d.png Will show like the original 'Supra Sports' information in the owners manual.
http://garzonstudio.com/i/warning-decal-1.png

[$pringer415]

where did you find the fiberglass footwell, I have been looking all over

[chris young]

From the little I've read on wooden boat building, if you're going the dimensional lumber route, you might want to consider white oak for the engine cradle. I had to look it up, because I knew one type of oak was good the other not good. Turns out it's white oak that's the good stuff (much better rot resistance) and red oak should be avoided. The one caveat I found was that if the boat is exposed to salt water, it may rot if bonded with what the web site called "plastic resin glue". So that would be a consideration considering it'll be coated with polyester resin.

Just a thought.

Post pictures, these jobs are in many of our futures.

Good luck:)

[BLouder]

where did you find the fiberglass footwell, I have been looking all over

x2
Need one soon

[kriley]

x3
I need one as well!

[Supra_Comp]

x3
I need one as well!

I have the part number from Supra in my office, I'll post it tomorrow. Just call up your local dealer and thy will get you one. It was about $115 CDN before shipping.

Sorry guys, no recent updates. The "honey-do" list has taken priority for the pat week!

EDIT: P/N for the foot well is #104720

[BLouder]

I have the part number from Supra in my office, I'll post it tomorrow. Just call up your local dealer and thy will get you one. It was about $115 CDN before shipping.

Sorry guys, no recent updates. The "honey-do" list has taken priority for the pat week!

EDIT: P/N for the foot well is #104720

Thank you!

[BLouder]

I ordered this from my local dealer the other day. They take about ten days because Supra makes them as they are ordered. Thanks again for listing the info, it was huge help having the part number when I called.

[Supra_Comp]

I ordered this from my local dealer the other day. They take about ten days because Supra makes them as they are ordered. Thanks again for listing the info, it was huge help having the part number when I called.


No problem. I just got mine delivered today! It is a bit different than the originals but pretty close, just has a smooth surface instead of textured.


Again, sorry for no photo updates guys...I sent he bot to have the stringers 'glassed in so when I pick it up I will add some pics!

[Supra_Comp]

Hi All,

Sorry its been a while but have been just getting back into working on the Comp. The main stringers are back in and the marina did a test fit of the motor today for me just to make sure things are lining up. We made some minor mistakes the the stringer step out where the exhaust pipes are to sit so we have to cut/notch some sections out to make them fit and re-glass it...minor setback.

Outside stringers/floors/foam are the next step, then I will get the fuel tank back in place. After that, minor interior mods (including a modified engine cover base to have cup holders) and carpet.

Slow and steady!

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130430-00035_zps73fff1c2.jpg (http://s678.photobucket.com/user/GT40_Sally/media/IMG-20130430-00035_zps73fff1c2.jpg.html)

[Supra_Comp]

Road block.

Turns out whoever owned this boat really hacked it together. At one point someone had this thing apart and I found a spot where a cutoff wheel went right through the transom where the exhaust ports are and that someone covered it up with bondo...literally. I am soc lucky that never came loose as it would of sunk the boat.

I can see daylight through a 1/4" wide slit. I am freaking. What do you think is the best repair here? I was thinking of taping the hole from the outside, epoxy/resin and matte (multiple layers) then from the outside 3M Marine 5200 as a sealant. Thoughts?

[jet]

I have a rebuilt footbed. Refiberglassed and Rhino lined blk with blue specs. ?? Might still be in the classifieds. Jet

[TitanTn]

Road block.

Turns out whoever owned this boat really hacked it together. At one point someone had this thing apart and I found a spot where a cutoff wheel went right through the transom where the exhaust ports are and that someone covered it up with bondo...literally. I am soc lucky that never came loose as it would of sunk the boat.

I can see daylight through a 1/4" wide slit. I am freaking. What do you think is the best repair here? I was thinking of taping the hole from the outside, epoxy/resin and matte (multiple layers) then from the outside 3M Marine 5200 as a sealant. Thoughts?

I would do exactly as you say except I'd fill the outside with Marine Tex and Gelcoat, or just Gelcoat depending on how deep it ends up being.

[Supra_Comp]

So here is what I'm up against...a hole and a crack just below the traps.

Titan, what would you suggest for the crack since it is on the edge of the transom/hull? What about some minor stress cracks on the transom? I feel like a bought a lemon 8 years ago lol, so frustrating!

Yes, he boat is sitting up off the hull, supported on blocks...trying to finish up the stringers.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zpsb595a5dd.jpg

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/image_zpsc2d439f4.jpg

[Salty87]

the spider cracks are very common. personally, i'd glass the inside with some cloth and marinetex the outside. you can use the marinetex to bed the cloth. clean the inside area with acetone and do some grinding first.

for the outside, use a plastic spreader wetted with water to get a smooth finish. sanding marinetex is not fun. it sets up very hard.

http://www.bartsupply.com/gallery/product_89051/208-90225_Spreader.gif

trippy roller trailer

[TitanTn]

What he said ^^

I wouldn't worry about the spider cracks, and only use as much Marine Tex as you need. As Salty said, it's tough to sand.

[Supra_Comp]

What he said ^^

I wouldn't worry about the spider cracks, and only use as much Marine Tex as you need. As Salty said, it's tough to sand.

Great info guys, thanks. I'll post up some more pics when I get 'glassing!

Yes, it is a trippy trailer, Shore Lander with the ski boat bunk. Despise it, impossible to load on to! Didn't come with the original and I have been trying to chase one down up here with no luck.

[Supra_Comp]

Requesting info from resident experts.

Has anyone used anything other than the 2 part foam for buoyancy? I'm suprised there I nothing else on the market.

[Supra_Comp]

Anyone know of anything?

[Salty87]

that's the only 'marine' rated product i know of. people have used different things like sheets of foam or even floaty noodles or ping pong balls. depends on how you want to gamble with all of the hard work you've done. 2 part foam is good stuff provided it's not swamped by water for a long time. water will find its way into just about anything given enough time.

what are your objectives? have you allowed for drainage to the bilge?

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks Salty. I will probably go back to the conventional method of pour in, seems to be the best solution.

New question. I have the stringers and new hull supports cut out and contoured as best as possible to the shape of the hull. The cross members were easier but the full length stringer is almost impossible to get the exact controur/angle over the full length. In a some spots near the engine when the angle changes I have a 1/4-1/2 gap on the inboard side of the stringer. Will this be ok when I bed them in? Should I "backfill" with PB mix? My worry is that there is not enough support but from what I have read in the forums is that it should be ok and the strength comes from the fiberglass matte going over the top of the stringer.

Figured I would ask the experts here since you know the hull shape!

On a side note, while the stringers were drying (coated with resin) I attempted to revive the tired out red paint...I think it came back ok after some wet sanding and cutting!

Before:

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130526-00057_zps10eed558.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130526-00058_zpsc4d21a00.jpg

After:

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130526-00059_zps5f6658df.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG-20130526-00060_zpsc0be7e4a.jpg

Up next is the hull!

[Supra_Comp]

New question. I have the stringers and new hull supports cut out and contoured as best as possible to the shape of the hull. The cross members were easier but the full length stringer is almost impossible to get the exact controur/angle over the full length. In a some spots near the engine when the angle changes I have a 1/4-1/2 gap on the inboard side of the stringer. Will this be ok when I bed them in? Should I "backfill" with PB mix? My worry is that there is not enough support but from what I have read in the forums is that it should be ok and the strength comes from the fiberglass matte going over the top of the stringer.

Figured I would ask the experts here since you know the hull shape!


Any help here guys? Planning on laying the stringers tomorrow.

[TitanTn]

Yes, I think you'll be fine with the bed of PB mix. It's supposed to sit on a bed of mx versus the hull itself anyway. Sounds like you're right on track.

The gel coat looks great!

[Supra_Comp]

Yes, I think you'll be fine with the bed of PB mix. It's supposed to sit on a bed of mx versus the hull itself anyway. Sounds like you're right on track.

The gel coat looks great!

Thanks Titan, I'll get some more pics together once the stringers are in....which will have to wait until next weekend once the weather cooperates!

[Supra_Comp]

I just took of the swim platform and brackets as I noticed the "transom" is rotten. What has everyone done other than new wood and fibgerlass? Even after replacement, it still seems like a weak design.

[Supra_Comp]

Also repaired the hole in the hull. Re-fiberglassed the exhaust outlet on the inside, backfilled with PC-11 marine epoxy and 1st coat of marine tex just to seal it all up. Will sand it smooth and go for a second coat. Really awkward spot to get at, did the best I could.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000014_zps2bcab2fe.jpg

[TitanTn]

From what I can see that repair looks good. It really is an awkward place to work. I've done some wet sanding there and never could get it just like I wanted. Hate to say it, but that epoxy will be harder to sand than what I was doing, so good luck, but regardless, filling the hole was the first objective.

[Salty87]

I just took of the swim platform and brackets as I noticed the "transom" is rotten. What has everyone done other than new wood and fibgerlass? Even after replacement, it still seems like a weak design.

i think i used these guys for 1/4" aluminum backing plates- http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/c2sm/custom-cut/

and used big ole washers too.



Also repaired the hole in the hull. Re-fiberglassed the exhaust outlet on the inside, backfilled with PC-11 marine epoxy and 1st coat of marine tex just to seal it all up. Will sand it smooth and go for a second coat. Really awkward spot to get at, did the best I could.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000014_zps2bcab2fe.jpg

once the platform is on you'll be the only one looking back there.

[Supra_Comp]

From what I can see that repair looks good. It really is an awkward place to work. I've done some wet sanding there and never could get it just like I wanted. Hate to say it, but that epoxy will be harder to sand than what I was doing, so good luck, but regardless, filling the hole was the first objective.

For the most part, I will probably do a second coat to try and blend it in better plus make sure it is sealed 100% and not even bother sanding it. It is hard enough to get my finger in there I may just have to leave it be! I plan on wetsanding and cutting the gel coat back here so i think once some of the fade and carbon suit are gone off the transom it may blend in a bit better.

Salty87, I'll keep them in mind. I saw what Titan had done and plan on something similar. Was even thinking of 1/8" aluminum plates that are a bit wider on the exterior with longer through bolts to help spread the load. I can't believe this is considered a 'transom'...its just glecoat and a thin layer of glass!

[Supra_Comp]

Another update. Sorry for the lack of progress, its been a busy summer so far!

Port side stringers are PB'd in and are feeling very solid. Its not the cleanest job but first time working with the West System products so I thought it wasn't bad! I am amazed at how sturdy the hull is now. When the old stringers were still in, it felt like a wet sponge. That "PB" mix dries tough as nails! Starboard side should be complete next week.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000114_zpsd0eeaade.jpg

[TitanTn]

Looking good. Those are some seriously think stringers! Have you thought about how you're going to glass them? I would think that putting a radius on the top edges would make it a lot easier to wrap the glass over them. But then again, it looks like you've already done the inner stringer, so maybe you've figured this out.

[Supra_Comp]

Looking good. Those are some seriously think stringers! Have you thought about how you're going to glass them? I would think that putting a radius on the top edges would make it a lot easier to wrap the glass over them. But then again, it looks like you've already done the inner stringer, so maybe you've figured this out.

Yes and no lol we oversized the stringers because we left the main stringers down the centre of the hull intact and they are " just ok", Only replaced the supports near the cradle. The problem was that I didn't think ahead before I sealed the wood and radius the edge for the glass overtop, I guess seeing all the progress got me a wee bit excited. The plan is to take a sander to them and re seal the edges.

[Supra_Comp]

Well guys, we went to the lake for a test float before we put the foam in and glass in the floors.

Couple of small in holes to fill in around the new swim platform support brackets, and some extra fiberglass on the stringers/transom and we should be ready for finishing! Even though there is no gas tank, we are amazed at how high the arse end is sitting in the water. Swim platform used to sit on the water, now it's like 4" higher. The exhaust ports are barely 3/4 submerged!

Sorry for the small photos, iPad photo bucket app! More photos to come. My old man with the boat.


http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/th_3d147b8d61bad7eaa8f00cd7930e989e_zps9073f769.jp g

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/th_5babb36249e7d55f5bcd1bd2e898bd7e_zps0d6520d6.jp g

[villain]

Lookin good!! Glad it floated well for you. Now that platform is up where it belongs!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks Villain!

I'm not super pleased with the way my fiberglass Job turned out, the heavy duty matte is hard to work with and soaks up a lot of resin. Got as many air bubbles out as i could. Should I be worried about it separating from the hull? I made sure to resin the hull, then lay the matte then roll out more resin until it would not take anymore .

Could I add some CSM over top for any added structure?

[TitanTn]

CSM won't make a huge difference in strength, but it will look a lot better and smooth out better.

[Supra_Comp]

CSM won't make a huge difference in strength, but it will look a lot better and smooth out better.

Here is a larger version of that photo. We haven't gone over the top of the stringers yet, still trying to figure that one out.

The more I look at it, the more it looks like it needs more strength, really hard to tell though. Looks like it has good penetration. On a side note, what thickness wood did you use for your floor boards? We are using 1/2" OSB sanded on one side.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000147_zps1a6f29ff.jpg

[Supra_Comp]

I have a two chips on the starboard side below the water line that are similar to the photo below (not my boat). The glass isnt cracked as bad but I can still see the fiberglass (Black). When we test floated the boat, we noticed a bit of water inside the boat where the hull steps down just behind the drivers seat. For the life of us we cant find any area where the water is coming in, and it is not travelling from somewhere else. The rest of the hull in that area looks to be in perfect shape!

Could chips like this cause any water penetration? We don't know where it came from but if it was a sharp impact it could of put a pin hole leak..

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r35/krisis7/DSC05186.jpg

[jasun]

We haven't gone over the top of the stringers yet, still trying to figure that one out.



Did you round the top of your stringer off? Makes it a lot easier to get the glass to form. What I did was just used 3/4 oz mat and saturated it with resin and then layed it on top with about a 4-5" overlap on each side. Here is a pic of it rounded off before any glassing...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/jasunderland/boat%20rebuild/null_zpsbee1f914.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/jasunderland/media/boat%20rebuild/null_zpsbee1f914.jpg.html)

I just used one of my 60 grit flap wheels and rounded the tops off, or atleast added a radius to them.

[jasun]

Could chips like this cause any water penetration? We don't know where it came from but if it was a sharp impact it could of put a pin hole leak..

Had the same issue, but I know where mine came from... A rogue screw broke the gel coat (the screw was verticle and pushed the fiberglass out and cracked the gel coat on a spot about the size of a quater)
I made up some resin and filled the hole. Sanded it down as best as i could and just put as little gel coat as I could (didnt match color). Sand and repeat till it was smooth.

[Supra_Comp]

Its the one thing we jumped a step on, rounding the wood off so the fiberglass would form to the edges (guess we got a bit excited seeing the progress!) We may go back smooth them off and reseal with resin. If it makes a big difference on the structure I will do it but the wood is coated with like 3 layers of resin so I highly doubt it will ever rot if that is all its there for.

We used a pretty heavy weave matte (1844 I think it was) to get the most structure on the sides of the stringers. What is best for over the top?

[jasun]

I did the top mainly to seal, that is why I just used a saturated piece of chop mat. Some people used the 1708 from side to side up and over.

[Supra_Comp]

More updates.

The transom was rotten and the platform was causing major flex so we replaced the wood, fibre glassed it in and then used 1/8" aluminum plates to help spread the load on both sides plus through bolts and a ton of 3M 5200. No leaks here! Instead of flexing the transom, when pressing down you now move the entire boat. Success!
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000156_zpsca3d1242.jpg

No major description here. All leaks were sealed up, and flotation foam was poured in. In the areas where we had to trim the foam we will be using epoxy to seal it so no water will penetrate over time. First time using it, hard to get the compartment volume exact hence the small pours here and there. Could care less about aesthetics! Happy to see this stage.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000155_zpsadb36c33.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_00000154_zps7e0333e6.jpg

[TitanTn]

It's all looking good, but I really like the work you've done on the transom. That's a nice improvement over factory.

[Supra_Comp]

It's all looking good, but I really like the work you've done on the transom. That's a nice improvement over factory.

Thanks Titan, we debated about adding the 1/8 plates for extra support mostly due to the fact we didn't know how it would seal up but it seams to hold well. They only cost me about $4 each so it was cheap insurance.

[Supra_Comp]

Well all, no update pics but we hit some cold weather and decided to winterize the boat and put it in storage. We have the floors glassed in and sealed up, next stage is a few bits like exhaust tubes, clean up the engine, etc. and finishing the interior.

My question is this. We have a line on some maroon marine grade carpet that is super plush and comfy for a good price. I normally would say to go with grey which is the colour we has in recently but I have a feeling it may look better going back to the original. What's your opinion? We are doing new side panels so if we redo those we may add some same colour vinyl as an accent.

Haugy/Titan- you guys both had maroon in your boats correct? How is it in the sun, hot?

I think it would also be ironic as we bought the boat with maroon carpet....went full circle!

[TitanTn]

Ultimately, if you're happy, you made the right choice. I contemplated doing something in the gray family when I did my carpet, but finally decided to go back original. I'm glad I did. I think it really looks good, and it's not nearly as hot as I expected in the sun.

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/fun/bday_lake_boat.jpg

[roadrash0069]

Hey guys
I'm in the process of doing my 85 comps stringers and after reading multipal threads on here I think its gonna turn out pretty well. But I am doing mine cap on and am getting my supplies from us composites. But started questioning my self on the amount of materials I'll need. So any of y'all remember about how much glass and resin it too to do stringers and transom? I'm using 1708 and epoxy 635.
Thanks anything will help.

[TitanTn]

I don't remember specifically, but I think a general rule of thumb is to figure out the coverage needed, and then add a third to it. You'll almost always need more than you originally thought.

[chris young]

Also, it depends on which filler you're using to bulk up the epoxy for the fillets. Colloidal silica and microfibres for example use several times more resin than the low density fillers. Here's a quick reference from West System http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Personally I would want to bed the stringers with something in the middle of the chart like micro balloons.

Why would you be using 1708? While I've never worked with the stuff, I would say it's overkill, and it might be a bitch to drape over the stringers. The only way I'd be using that stuff for stringers would be if I were using a foam core for the stringers. Structurally, with the exception of the stringers that go under the motor, the stringers add stiffness to the hull by tying the floor to the hull and creating a box beam, and somewhat less so, the actual stiffness of the stringer. Really, coating the stringers with any glass would be overkill if it wasn't for stringer rot. At least when the wood rots there is still a bit of structure from the glass wrap. I would think a single layer of 8.7oz 12" tape would be plenty if you did a good job and made sure there was no where for the water to get in and rot the wood. It'd be a lot easier to work with, use up a lot less resin, and be cheaper.

[Supra_Comp]

I don't remember specifically, but I think a general rule of thumb is to figure out the coverage needed, and then add a third to it. You'll almost always need more than you originally thought.

Titan is right. You will be surprised how much the matte soaks up. Also be prepared to by extra silica powder for when you make the PB mix, it disappears quick.

[Supra_Comp]

Also, it depends on which filler you're using to bulk up the epoxy for the fillets. Colloidal silica and microfibres for example use several times more resin than the low density fillers. Here's a quick reference from West System http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Personally I would want to bed the stringers with something in the middle of the chart like micro balloons.

Why would you be using 1708? While I've never worked with the stuff, I would say it's overkill, and it might be a bitch to drape over the stringers. The only way I'd be using that stuff for stringers would be if I were using a foam core for the stringers. Structurally, with the exception of the stringers that go under the motor, the stringers add stiffness to the hull by tying the floor to the hull and creating a box beam, and somewhat less so, the actual stiffness of the stringer. Really, coating the stringers with any glass would be overkill if it wasn't for stringer rot. At least when the wood rots there is still a bit of structure from the glass wrap. I would think a single layer of 8.7oz 12" tape would be plenty if you did a good job and made sure there was no where for the water to get in and rot the wood. It'd be a lot easier to work with, use up a lot less resin, and be cheaper.

We used 1708 on the base of the stringers over the fillets and then CSM over the top. The 1708 (applied correctly) will add a whole lot of strength to the hull and also help spread out the load evenly.

[roadrash0069]

I just figured I'd go with the 1708 so I know for a fact it will be strong enough. And so far it has been working pretty well. I rounded out the edges of the tops of the stringers and haven't had a problem with getting a contact yet. And redid the transom with the 1708 and it came out very solid as I was hoping with just 2 layers of the 1708 but may decide to add more throughout the build, due to the transom being so rotten and flexing bad before I started this. But do any of y'all have suggestions on whether I should run the out side stringers all the way to the transom like the engine stringers? I see how originally they did not connect to transom and had a good 3 inch gap in between transom and end of the stringer, but I kinda want to for a solid structure but after measuring the bolts for the swim platform the end up in the same spot as the stringer so I may have to leave a gap. Any suggestions on that? I'm sure it was prolly open for any extra water run off but am hoping I have none.
Thanks

[TitanTn]

I think you can leave it like the manufacturer did, but I'd also put some limber holes at the bottom of the main stringers so any misc moisture can get back to the bilge.

[roadrash0069]

OK sounds good. I'll just have to make sure I fiberglass those holes real good! Did u have any big problems getting the engine mounts back to the same position. I've kinda been sceptical on how I would make sure there in the right place.
Thanks

[Supra_Comp]

Some progress guys, things are happening quick to get the boat ready for the Canada Day long weekend coming up! Carpet is in, side panels are secured to the floor. Items left to install:

- Custom Battery Box
- Foot Tray
- Drivers Seat
- Looker's Bench
- Rear Bench
- Stereo/Speakers
- Doghouse Base/Cover

14583
14584

[bcarlisle]

Hey there...fellow Supra Comp TS6M lover.

Wondering if you would be willing to help me out. I have taken on a similar project myself. I have a problem though...I never got a measurement for the motor mounts before I had a fiberglass guy redo all my floor stringers.

Would you be willing to take a couple measurements from your boat so I know I am at least in the ballpark?

I was thinking about getting a measurement from the gap between the transmission flange and the prop flange down to maybe the prop flange that is fiberglassed to the bottom of the hull.

If you are willing to help...my number is 218-303-6486. If not, I understand.

Thanks,

Benjamin Carlisle

[Supra_Comp]

Well guys, its been a long road but we are complete. Want to give a thanks to all that had great input and advice during the bad times, sure did learn a lot about these boats in the process, it was all greatly appreciated! Want to give a special shout out to lively for helping me solve an issue that had haunted this boat for years! Now time to enjoy and name it….

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_20140628_130739_zpsded0c0e5.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_20140628_165546_zps0758c7f4.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/IMG_20140627_204354_zpse73f4271.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/GT40_Sally/imagejpeg_2_zps90c66dff.jpg

[Kma4444]

That's awesome, wish I had the room/time for one. JEALOUS!!!! :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

[SquamInboards]

Congrats for seeing this through to completion, you'll be happier every time you hop in the boat knowing how solid it is, and that you didn't spend 80k on a new boat.

Cheers!

(this is, without a doubt, in my future with my all-original-structure '89)...

[TitanTn]

Looks great. Thanks for taking us through the resto process. I'm sure this thread will be useful to others.

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks guys! Really looking forward to enjoying it next week.

[Supra_Comp]

Thanks guys! Really looking forward to enjoying it next week.

Has anyone ever put in a small drain through the main stringers to allow any residual water to escape from the outside stringers foam? I think a couple members have. Viewing Michael's thread had me thinking...

I noticed after our rebuild we had a small amount of water by the exhaust ports and we traced the water coming in from the bottom of the rub rail (Silicone must of let go in a couple spots while we did the rebuild). We have since fixed it but for future would it be a good idea to put in a drain incase of any water that could get there?

[TitanTn]

Those holes are called limber holes. Most boats have them and unfortunately our 80's model Supras did not. But yes, when you're doing a rebuild they're a great idea.

[Gclarkbar477]

Does anyone have the passenger limit and passenger weight limit . I've been told several times by DNR THAT this should be display. My 85 supra comp tsm6 label has fadedand isn't legible.
Thanks GClarkbar

[TitanTn]

Does anyone have the passenger limit and passenger weight limit . I've been told several times by DNR THAT this should be display. My 85 supra comp tsm6 label has fadedand isn't legible.
Thanks GClarkbar
If you're boat is under 20 feet (like a comp) then you are required to have a passenger and weight placard. Over 20 feet and it's not required.

[Jetlink]

Does anyone have the passenger limit and passenger weight limit . I've been told several times by DNR THAT this should be display. My 85 supra comp tsm6 label has fadedand isn't legible.
Thanks GClarkbar

Someone correct me if I am wrong here but that data plate can only come from the manufacturer and technically these boats were made by Supra back then and since then the Supra name and production has been taken up by Skiers Choice. So, you cannot get another data plate for your boat because Supra does not really exist in that sense. I see that you boat in the same areas that I do and like your boat, mine does not have a data plate as well. My boat has passed every safety check I have voluntarily taken it to as well as those "random" stops on the water as well by all the agencies including the coast guard auxiliary here in Illinois.

[Mischief IV]

Does anyone have the passenger limit and passenger weight limit . I've been told several times by DNR THAT this should be display. My 85 supra comp tsm6 label has fadedand isn't legible.
Thanks GClarkbar

Try this: https://discontinueddecals.americommerce.com/boat_capacity_decal_generic_type_b_us_coast_guard1

He can probably make one that says what you want. Yes, DNR wants to know what the passenger capacity is regardless of the size boat when they pull you over if they believe you are overloaded.

If you put six or more people on a Comp (believe it’s six people capacity), probably deserve a ticket IMO.

[Jetlink]

Try this: https://discontinueddecals.americommerce.com/boat_capacity_decal_generic_type_b_us_coast_guard1

He can probably make one that says what you want. Yes, DNR wants to know what the passenger capacity is regardless of the size boat when they pull you over if they believe you are overloaded.

If you put six or more people on a Comp (believe it’s six people capacity), probably deserve a ticket IMO.

Driver, spotter and skier is all you really need for a Comp anyway.

[hoop46]

Try this: https://discontinueddecals.americommerce.com/boat_capacity_decal_generic_type_b_us_coast_guard1

He can probably make one that says what you want. Yes, DNR wants to know what the passenger capacity is regardless of the size boat when they pull you over if they believe you are overloaded.

If you put six or more people on a Comp (believe it’s six people capacity), probably deserve a ticket IMO.

We load 6 on ours here and there. It gets tight, but i wouldn't consider it unsafe

[angus2112]

you should be able to get them from skiers choice there was something a few years back where they sent new ones out ( i think i still have them ) for some kind of up grade i will look in my book when i get home

jetlink Driver, spotter and skier is all you really need for a Comp anyway. and a cooler don't forget the cooler

[Mischief IV]

Driver, spotter and skier is all you really need for a Comp anyway.

Driver, skier and mirror is all you need in GA.


We load 6 on ours here and there. It gets tight, but i wouldn't consider it unsafe

It was a joke. :) Didn't say it was unsafe, just uncomfortable I'm sure. I see all the Comp owners making angry faces at me for that one. :(



jetlink - Driver, spotter and skier is all you really need for a Comp anyway. and a cooler don't forget the cooler

Ok, the cooler is more important than the skier. Got it!