No spark

[awesomesteven]

I'm having issues with getting the engine (351) to turn over so I checked to see if I had any spark. I took one of the spark plugs out, grounded it and tried to crank but saw no spark at all. I went ahead and changed the distributor cap and the rotor and still no spark. I was wondering if you guys know of a way to check to see if its the ignition coil or if its something else?

Thanks!

[michael hunter]

What year is your boat? Are you still running points?

[awesomesteven]

It's an '86 sunsport. I'm not really sure what running points means.

[2500HD]

the simplest thing to do is take it to napa and have them test it or if you have a multimeter you can test it while turning it over. if it were me and the boat had been under water. i would replace the coil and all of the spark plug wires. when water gets inside of them they arc and don't deliver full power if any.

[michael hunter]

Your original ignition system operated using points and a condenser inside the distributor. Some have been retrofitted to a electronic
system. If you dont know the difference you will need someone to help you fix your boat. Where are you located?

[awesomesteven]

I'm in Charlotte. I still have the original ignition

[michael hunter]

I would start with a new set of points and condenser. The NAPA part numbers are CS720P and AL869. Those are for the Prestolite distributor.

[awesomesteven]

Thanks Michael. I should have mentioned that along with the new rotor and cap I also put in a new set of points and condenser - I used the tune up kit from skidim.

I did pick up a multimeter this morning (probably something I should have gotten a long time ago) - I figured I can test to see the resistence in the ignition coil and plug cables to see if they are good? Anyone know what kind of reading I should be getting?

EDIT: I just thought of this. Could it be that I didn't set up the gap correctly when I put in the new points and condenser? I believe its .018 but I didn't even think of that when I put the new one in...

[awesomesteven]

I used the multimeter measure the resistance of the ignition coil and on the primary winding I got 1.8 ohm and on the secondary I got 8,700 ohms which I think is about right.

However, when I turn the key to the "start" position the multimeter doesn't get a volt reading (reading the primary winding). Could it be that the resistor above the circuit breaker is bad since I'm not reading any voltage at the coil? Should I bypass the resistor or is that a bad idea? I don't want to screw up the condenser.

[michael hunter]

Is there any voltage at the ballast resistor? If not check for voltage at the Ign switch in the dash. If you still have trouble call me and I will walk you through it. 219-712-5060

[awesomesteven]

There is no voltage at the resistor. I'll check the ignition switch when i get back home. I might take you up on that!

[awesomesteven]

ok..new problem...might be a costly one.

After talking to michael hunter (thanks again btw) we figured out the ignition was out. I am getting a spark now! Go to start it. Same thing. Figured out the fuel pump was bad and just replaced it today. Still the same thing.

So this is what I do. I know I connected the spark plug wires in the correct order but wasn't sure I had the #1 cylinder correct. So I manually turn the engine until I got TDC for the #1 cylinder and the reconnected the spark plugs in the right order. I turn the key for about 3 sec trying to get it to turn and I here a "pppssshhh" coming from the carb (Holly) - I turn and see a small (very faint) puff of smoke come out the back of the carb and it smells a little like something got burnt (but not a gasoline smell).

Does this probably mean I need to rebuild the carb or get a new one?

EDIT (ADD): Could it be that it's the lean mixture or improperly adjusted valves? After that happened yesterday I got frustrated and just stopped working on it so I really don't konw what it looks like from the inside - probably going to do that on Sat.

Anyways...any help/suggestions would help out tons!

[michael hunter]

Sounds like you had a backfire and started the fuel in the carb on fire. When you put the engine on #1 did you make sure it was on compression stroke? You may be 180 degrees out of time . Call again if you need more help.

[wspeedin]

awesomesteven, what part of Charlotte ar eyou in? Im in Monroe.

[wotan2525]

Agreed. Your timing is off. You may be 180 off or just a tooth or two on the dizzy. Nothing is broken. You really need to find TDC on #1 to get this going properly. Good luck!

[awesomesteven]

Sounds like you had a backfire and started the fuel in the carb on fire. When you put the engine on #1 did you make sure it was on compression stroke? You may be 180 degrees out of time . Call again if you need more help.

I couldn't handle not knowing what was going on so I went back home during lunch and you were right, I had set it 180 out of time - for the downstroke. But when I went to turn the key, I got nothing. I am getting power but I think the ignition blew because it's not even cranking. I'm still in work stuff so I couldn't really get down there but I was going to try to hot wire and bypass the switch all together; I'll have to wait till later tonight to give it a shot.




awesomesteven, what part of Charlotte ar eyou in? Im in Monroe.

I'm in the Mathews/Mint Hill area.



Agreed. Your timing is off. You may be 180 off or just a tooth or two on the dizzy. Nothing is broken. You really need to find TDC on #1 to get this going properly. Good luck!

Gives me hope! Haha.

[wotan2525]

Did you blow the circuit breaker? Should be a red button on the back side of your engine.

Also -- make sure that the kill switch/breaker next to the key didn't blow.

I promise -- this is something easy if you're not getting a click or anything.

[Alexoag]

i just went through all of this yesterday.....i had to put on a new starter solenoid then after that it wouldn't start.....after replacing the ballast resistor and coil i found out it was the condensor....sounds like you got all that figured out though....i do have all the manuals that came with my boat and it has the firing order in there if u want me to scan it and post it i can.

[Alexoag]

12015......................

[awesomesteven]

I checked the circuit breaker and it had not tripped. I also checked all the fuses including the one next to the ignition and they are all good.

Tried bypassing the ballast resistor... nothing

The ignition coil is still good, but I'm not getting any voltage when I have the key at thr "start" position. Would a blown condenser do this?

[Salty87]

i hate starting problems. you sure it's in neutral? you might disconnect your transmission cable at the tranny and move that lever by hand to be certain. there's in indention the lever will seat in when it is in fact in neutral.

[awesomesteven]

Thanks salty. It was in natural, but I did what you suggested and still the same. No click, no nothing.

Could it be this?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/putuqe2y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/zetuduha.jpg

Since I heard something from the carb (description posted above) could something in here cause issues? Does this red wire run to the ballast resistor? [Scratch this. I don't think that the carb choke assy would cause any of this]

Edit add - I also tried to jump it from the starter relay and nothing.

[Alexoag]

ok ill throw in another 2 cents.....that picture is foor your electronic choke..has nothing to do with the problem.

start by checking the starter solinoid by sticking a screwdriver between the two big post if it sparks and turns over then your solinoid is bad.
also check to see if the little wire comming from the trans is in good shape...that is your natural wire.
now if it turns over but no spark is happining then take off the condensor located in the distributator and turn it over...if it pops like you got spark than your condensor is bad but dont run it with out it as you will burn up your points...
99% chance it wont be the ballast resistor...dont mess it up though its a 45 dollar part and can be hard to find sometimes.

if it still wont turn over after the new soliniod though im guessing you will need a new ignition. hope that helps

[Alexoag]

check your ground on the block (sometimes it gets rusty and wont ground) just take it off and clean the surface with a wire brush and clean the ground cable.....also check your batt. make sure it is charged and the connections are clean and tight.

[awesomesteven]

Thanks Alexoag. I previously replaced, pretty much, all the wiring (all nice and snug) and the battery is brand new. - getting 12.6v or so.

[michael hunter]

Steven I'm on problem overload with this thread . I will need to talk to you in real time to get it fixed . Call me again and we will get it going.

[Alexoag]

lol hunter i copy that....in the end it will be an easy fix i bet.

[awesomesteven]

Ok. So I'm getting back to this and I'm trying to track where I have a bad connection. It is a mess under the dash!

I'm getting voltage to the fuse block but not out of it. I also checked each fuse (including the one next to the igition switch again) for their resistance and every single one seems fine. So, I just ordered the "blue sea systems 12 blade fuse block" from amazon so hopefully this will at least give me the comfort that the block itself is good.

[wotan2525]

Steven -- Stop. You need to find a mechanic and/or something that knows what they are doing. Your block is just fine!!

You are going to start cutting wires and make a mess of this. You have a SIMPLE problem that you are making worse every step of the way. PLEASE find someone local that can help you.

[awesomesteven]

Steven -- Stop.

HAHA...I wish I could!

I ended up replacing the fuse block today and that thing was falling apart. The clips that were holding the fuses easily fell apart once I had it off.

Now I can get the engine to start by touching the s-post of the starter relay to the + post. So, bad solenoid I guess. Going to run and get one later tonight and hopefully have it in the water this weekend!