1989 Mariah Rudder Packing Nut

[robert.d.oates]

I searched through the forum and saw this topic mentioned, but didn't find the details that I need (at least that I saw).

Water is leaking from around the rudder and I am hoping that the rudder packing nut needs only to be tightened (Was loose to the touch. Attached is a picture of the packing nut. Does anyone have a procedure for retightening the nuts? Including access to the area and tabs?12029

[Ptownkid]

Tightening the packing nut may not solve your issue completely. I can clearly see that the glass holding your backing plate for the rudder is cracked and the wood is likely toast...

[robert.d.oates]

Thanks for the quick response.
We observed water coming in through the top of the packing nut which is why we were focusing on the nut. No water observed from the glass crack.

[Ptownkid]

Fair enough...but once you deal with tightening the nut, I can assure you that you are going to see water seeping from there. It'll be slow, but it needs to be addressed.

As for the packing nut, I just took a large flathead and straightened the prongs and tightened the nut...but, it is also possible that it needs to be repacked with new rope.

[inair]

I had the same rudder set up as you. When I finally figured out how to take it apart I found NO packing material in the nut, the wood backing was rotted, and the rudder shaft worn badly from the previous owner not taking care of it. Since I had to tear out the rotted wood backing I elected to replace the whole thing with a new rudder from SkiDim and not have to deal with it and potential leaking in the future. For me that was the right choice. If your wood base is rotted you'll have quite a job dealing with it but it's not that bad. I have some pics of the rudder all taken apart and laid out if that would be helpful.

[Ptownkid]

Replacing the backing plate is a relatively easy job for even a newbie...grind, clean, glass, drill. Doesn't even have to look good.

[robert.d.oates]

Sounds good. Any pictures of this process (even rudder replacement, wood repair, etc.) would be welcomed.

[inair]

This is a test.

Well I seem to be unable to post pictures. Changed to a MAC and the process seems different? I don't know. Im working on it :confused:

[inair]

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/IMG_0298.jpghttp://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/DSC_0222.jpghttp://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/DSC_0217_001SupraRudderpic.jpg

[Ptownkid]

Might be due to your post count...does anyone know what that number is?

[inair]

Well it seems I can post a direct link to photobucket but that is about it?

[Jetlink]

He should be allowed to post pics and links.

[inair]

Aha! Senior moment :p
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/DSC_0217_001SupraRudderpic.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/kennash737/media/DSC_0217_001SupraRudderpic.jpg.html)

[inair]

Wahoo. Figured it out so here are a couple more of the rudder torn apart.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/DSC_0222.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/kennash737/media/DSC_0222.jpg.html)

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb375/kennash737/IMG_0298.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/kennash737/media/IMG_0298.jpg.html)

[Ptownkid]

So in that last picture he has ground away the old wooden backing plate and the fiberglass that held it in place. Leaving a smooth surface to bed in a new plate and then glass over it.

[inair]

Ptownkid is correct. The blue stuff you see there, believe it or not, is plain old Bondo. For what ever reason, Supra formed a small fiberglass pad to mount the rudder to and then decided they needed a bigger one. So they built up a nice pad of auto body filler and on top of that added the backing plate and glassed it in place. I had no experience with fiberglass so making all five of those wholes line up while working with it was a tad messy but ultimately easier than I thought it would be.

[Ptownkid]

They used that stuff all over the place in my saltare...and it seems as though it's likely not bondo. It was applied with a gun like caulking in mine. They used it to bed things in. As for the holes...there's no need to line them up, if you drill them last.

[inair]

Drilling the holes last is a great idea. After I finished up I sat looking at if for a while and thought of ways I could have done it better and easier. That wasn't one the the things I thought of! One day I'll grow up to be a real Supra craftsman like some of the pros here :) As for what ever that filler is, I asked around quite a bit so I could have some on hand and my recollection is that the local Supra dealer told me it was bondo. But that was a year ago and he may have just said to use bondo to replace it if needed.

Anyway, have fun with your project. Let us know how it goes.

[robert.d.oates]

Thanks! We're planning to take another look while working on it this weekend.

[nd4spd]

Hey Guys,

New member here. Bought my Supra Comp TS6M in November and have been repairing it this spring.
Yesterday I removed the gas tank and attempted to drop the rudder out the bottom of the boat but was unable to remove the tiller arm. I have the same setup as you, inair. What did you have to do to remove the tiller arm? I have the same dimple in the top of my rudder post as you, from attempting to use a gear puller. I've also tried tapping the threaded stud out the other side of the tiller arm, but cannot get it to budge. What gives?

12281