replacing alternator

[dickboxers]

So i threw a belt on the water the other day. While installing the new belt the casing snaped while tighting the bolt. So i made my way back to boat ramp. Alternator is fine but i dont think the bolt will hold on rough water. Im looking for my best option (rebuild, new upgrade). I have a 89 comp running 2 amps and base tube, 2 batteries. I am fixing to go get pictures and values off the items. Just wanted to get thread started.

[dickboxers]

88 comp. Attached are the pictures of where the casing broke. Im not sure how possible it would be for me to get a longer bolt and add locking not to secure the alternator. That would be the cheapest way to go, but i really really hate being towed in. Is it possible to replace the case only on an alternator.

[dickboxers]

1205112052

[dickboxers]

ok now there are pictures. tablet was having trouble i guess. It is a 55 amp PCM made by Mando. If i do purchase a new one should i get a larger amp alternator

[michael hunter]

I just bought a NEW Delco marine 105 amp single wire from DB Electrical to replace the Mando on my pontoon boat.
66.08 shipped to my door .

[dickboxers]

thanks michael

[cadunkle]

I just bought a NEW Delco marine 105 amp single wire from DB Electrical to replace the Mando on my pontoon boat.
66.08 shipped to my door .

Do these require revving the engine above a certain RPM to begin charging? i believe they're called self exciting or some such thing. My current alternator does tno charge unless I rev it, I believe something like 1500-2000 RPM. The neutral throttle limit in teh Morse control keeps it from revving that high so I can't just blip the throttle after I've run for a minute. I want to switch to an alternator, preferably higher amp, that just charges any time the engine is running.

[Salty87]

$66 for a marine alternator is in the range of sounding too good to be true- in my opinion. i'd be curious to hear about the internals of it.

to the OP, i'd find a local electrical shop and have them check it out. cast aluminum isn't terribly repairable but the guts of yours is fine. they can probably come up with a solution.

[chrisk]

A machine shop should be able to fix that up.. just weld a new tab on and drill and tap the the hole through it.

[michael hunter]

I dont know anything about this company I found then on the net. The Mando alt on my pontoon started charging 17+ volts the regulator is expensive and needs to be soldered in a marine mechanic buddy recommended a delco universal replacement . This is a new unit not rebuilt with a 1 year warranty Ill let you know how it goes.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Picture059-1_zps15abcbe8.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/suprahunter/media/Picture059-1_zps15abcbe8.jpg.html)

[wotan2525]

I've got the DB Electrical 160amp Marine alternator. I've had it 7 years now. Never had a problem. It's one of the only things on my boat that has lasted.

Knocking on wood SO HARD right now.

[Jetlink]

I've got the DB Electrical 160amp Marine alternator. I've had it 7 years now. Never had a problem. It's one of the only things on my boat that has lasted.

Knocking on wood SO HARD right now.

Need a new desk now?

[cadunkle]

I've got the DB Electrical 160amp Marine alternator. I've had it 7 years now. Never had a problem. It's one of the only things on my boat that has lasted.

If you start the boat and idle without revving it to higher RPM does the alternator immediately charge?

[wotan2525]

It does charge but it certainly doesn't put out 160amps. It came with a little graph that shows how it bench-tested. It's been a long time but I believe it doesn't come on until 1500RPMs. I don't really have a problem with that. It wouldn't generate anything meaningful at idle anyway.

I've got onboard chargers and a 3-battery bank so I'm never without good power.

[dickboxers]

Ok, replaced alternator and need some conformation on if i hooked it up right. First picture should be a pic of old alternator wiring. Orange was hot all time, yellow was hot when main switch on, and black was ground. 2nd pic should be my new alternator wiring diagram. I hooked black wire to ground lug at very very top left, then hooked yellow to the black wire (labeled switch +12), and then hooked orange to the big lug instead of to red wire. The big lug has a stamp "BAT" by it which i figured was for battery.

I just want to make sure this way looks good. I did test, and battey was at 12.2 and rose to 13.1 while running.1219912200

[cadunkle]

It does charge but it certainly doesn't put out 160amps. It came with a little graph that shows how it bench-tested. It's been a long time but I believe it doesn't come on until 1500RPMs. I don't really have a problem with that. It wouldn't generate anything meaningful at idle anyway.

I've got onboard chargers and a 3-battery bank so I'm never without good power.

So below 1500 RPM your voltage is 12v or less, discharging? Or you need to rev the engine above 1500 RPM then it charges and at a 700 RPM idle there will b 13+ volts?

Typically a high output alternator will output significant amperage at idle, nowhere near full output but well above a stock sized alternator (40-70 amp). If it is in fact discharging at idle that won't work for me. If it needs to be revved to 1500 RPM to begin chargin then will charge at lower RPM then it may work, as mine needs to be revved closer to 2000-2500 before it will charge.