How to remove pinstriping and supra wave

[mabbore]

I am about to try and compound my supra and I am not sure how to safely removed the pin-striping. I have used the rubber wheels in the past, but not sure if there was a better way to take it off. I would normally work around it, but my hull need serious sanding and compounding.

[Wylietunes]

if its just vinyl decal, then use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and it should peel off.

[mabbore]

if its just vinyl decal, then use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and it should peel off.

Yeah I thought about that, but was afraid I would damage the gel coat

[Jetlink]

The heat gun method works well. It was how I removed the old registration number off of my boat when I purchased the boat. Just remember that the adhesive will absorb the heat so you can stand a risk of toasting your fingers...and now they stick to said fingers.

[wotan2525]

The stripe won't come off with heat. Use the 3M pin-stripe remover wheel..... Makes this PITA job easy as cake.

[wiatowski]

I found the rubber wheel works, but takes a long time. I used a box cutter blade and pulled the striping off as I CAREFULLY slid the blade behind the decal. Took me 15 minutes. Just keep the blade fairly flat against the hull.

[sp8race1010]

I used ammonia and water in a spray bottle and applied to decal and took a black trash bag and laid on top of it in the sun and let stand for 45 min to an hour. The ammonia breaks down the adhesive and makes it very easy to remove any decal. Just be sure not to get the overspray on any vinyl or other porous surfaces you might not want any fading or spotting on. I usually mask all around the area and cover where any liquid may run.
After it's removed I cleaned with wax and grease remover and started applying the new graphics.

That's my opinion. Take it how you will. But good luck on whatever way you decide to proceed.

[Ptownkid]

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-400E-Pinstripe-Tool/dp/B000IHK2TY

Just removed a LOT of adhesive left behind from a wrap with one of these...great product. Don't forget the arbor.

[mabbore]

So I went ahead and picked up a 3M eraser wheel from Advanced auto parts. I just used my corded Milwaukee electric drill and low to medium RPMS and it came off easily. It did take a little while and was pretty tedious, but it did not damage the paint at all. My hope is to refinish the gel and put a new more subtle wave and pinstripe on.

Before

12211

[mabbore]

After

12213

[mabbore]

Now I just need to remove all that oxidation, I am thinking of trying some 3M liquid rubbing coumpound on a harbor freight buffer.

[Jetlink]

Have fun wet sanding!!!

[Salty87]

based on your pic i'd do what jetlink says. your compound results may look good for several months but the haze will probably come back.

that's a nasty scum line.

[wotan2525]

Go straight to wet sanding. It will turn out much better and will actually last.

Rubbing compound will look great for 3/4s of this season and then the fade will come back.

[mabbore]

Go straight to wet sanding. It will turn out much better and will actually last.

Rubbing compound will look great for 3/4s of this season and then the fade will come back.

what grit do you think I should start with?

[wotan2525]

I started with 800 but if I did it again, I'd start with 600. Gelcoat is thick and you'll never go through it. I'd go 600, 800, 1000, 1500 (small steps make it a lot easier.) Then rubbing compound, Finesse-It II and then wax.

It's a LOT of work but it will look like new when it's done.

[mabbore]

So I picked up some 600, 800 wet sand paper and some heavy oxidation removing compound and started to work on her. But I am still not seeing fantastic results. I probably worked the spot blow for around 2 hours and still cant get down to a great base. ideas?

12233

[haugy]

So I picked up some 600, 800 wet sand paper and some heavy oxidation removing compound and started to work on her. But I am still not seeing fantastic results. I probably worked the spot blow for around 2 hours and still cant get down to a great base. ideas?

12233

Before you trying anything more. Finish out that section. You should always do a test section on your boat before going full-bore. That means go from 600 grit all the way to 2000 grit, rubbing compound, swirl remover, polish. While that's a pretty bad line, some more may come off as you continue sanding and polishing. And if it doesn't you know right then that you need to be more aggressive. This helps you eliminate doing things twice. Finish out a section, if it's not the desired result, then you can change your routine.

I wouldn't go any lower than 600 grit, but that does look like a really bad line. Perhaps more aggressive sanding, less water, more pressure, but still a 600 grit. If that doesn't work, move to 400 grit, but only do a small section. Now you're starting to work into the gel-coat pretty good.

[wotan2525]

It won't get shiny until it's polished. I'd keep at it. Change your paper frequently (as soon as you feel that it's not "grabbing" any more.) Keep dunking it in water as it gets clogged fast. You'll get there.