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View Full Version : Overheat damage part 2



suprasam
05-31-2013, 07:48 PM
I posted earlier this week an issue I had with my impeller going out. The engine overheated to around 220, so I got a new impeller, replaced I took the plugs out fogged each because the plugs had some water on them. When I brought the boat home I pulled to check if water was in the oil, and I couldn't notice any. I didn't change oil yet, so at this point new impeller, fogged, new plugs. I ran the boat at the house for two minutes and she started up perfect. I brought back in garage to change oil....... AND BAM FREAKIN milky oil! Damn! Ok so I ask once upon a time at this point what should I do? What did I ruin now? Hopefully nothing major, any help is appreciated.

CornRickey
05-31-2013, 08:28 PM
220 doesn't sound to hot to me but water in the oil and water on the plugs on the other hand sounds bad. I'd assume head gasketts/warped heads till proven otherwise. I'd plan on a engine rebuild.

suprasam
05-31-2013, 09:14 PM
Yah from what I've read (god help me) I don't think it's a complete rebuild.... More along the lines of head gaskets. But you can never bet a sure thing on what you read on the net or a boat lol, on a side note no smoke, and zero knocking or ticking at all from the engine.

Wylietunes
05-31-2013, 09:49 PM
220 is pretty hot for a non pressurized cooling system, considering water boils at 212. Running an engine hot is actually worse then running one out of oil. if hot enough for long enough, it will ruin the block. The cylinders go out of round causing scaring on both the cylinder walls and piston skirts, and bow the heads and deck.

kvand347
05-31-2013, 10:03 PM
I've always been taught to try the cheapest/easiest reasonable fix first before freaking out about a rebuild.

1. Rent a compression tester from autozone and test each cylinder. If all tests well, move on to step 2.

2. I would buy some cheap oil and do an oil change. Run it with the now fresh oil. Check that and see if it continues to be milky. If you dieseled the engine, your oil would have water in it. An oil change should take care of it.

3. If oil is still milky, suspect a blown head gasket and replace it.

wotan2525
06-01-2013, 03:42 PM
I'm with kvand347 on this one.... work small to big on these. Compression tester will tell you if there is a problem. If you find bad compression anywhere, a Leak down tester will tell you if it's just the head gasket or if you've got bigger problems. Start with the compression tester and report back....

CornRickey
06-01-2013, 05:26 PM
Agreed and said a lot more clear than my "till proven otherwise". I'm trying to figure out though how dieseling would cause water in the oil? Hydrolock yes but I'm not seeing the water in the oil path.

docdrs
06-02-2013, 09:14 PM
curious as to how you winterized your motor?

kvand347
06-03-2013, 09:17 AM
Agreed and said a lot more clear than my "till proven otherwise". I'm trying to figure out though how dieseling would cause water in the oil? Hydrolock yes but I'm not seeing the water in the oil path.

You got me on that one! Now that I think about it, not sure how the one relates to the other either. I'm thinking blown head gasket is the culprit. Hydrolock may or may not have happened.

suprasam
06-05-2013, 09:23 AM
OK, well I think the Boat Gods were looking down on me! I drained the oil and changed the filter.....i ran her on the hose at the house, and ZERO water anywhere to be found in the oil. I put new plugs in also, and if the weather holds out Thursday I am taking to the lake to do another test......but so far all is good! I think I dodged a bullet. So let it be known, every year from here on out I will be changing the impeller!

CornRickey
06-05-2013, 11:23 AM
Good luck. But the water came from somewhere of which none of them are good. I'd be doing the same thing though and with the stance that its going to go south.