I would like to put a supra decal on the Pirata - Any suggestions?

[gogger]

Ran into a nice couple in a Moomba the other night. Was talking to them, they had no idea the Pirata was a supra. It has no identifying decals. So I was thinking about putting something on it. And suggestions and where can I get them?

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff460/gogger/uploads/2012-10-15183952_zps8d603943.jpg (http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/gogger/media/uploads/2012-10-15183952_zps8d603943.jpg.html)

[gogger]

That was last years pic by mistake.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff460/gogger/uploads/20130519_173730_zps4febc7be.jpg (http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/gogger/media/uploads/20130519_173730_zps4febc7be.jpg.html)

[gogger]

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff460/gogger/uploads/20130519_173716_zps77ec2ec3.jpg (http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/gogger/media/uploads/20130519_173716_zps77ec2ec3.jpg.html)

[michael hunter]

This would be my first choice .

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Saltarereborn_zps11f4bfcc.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/suprahunter/media/Saltarereborn_zps11f4bfcc.jpg.html)

If you need the wave decal I have a source.

[TitanTn]

As awesome as Haugy's graphic design skills are, some people like to be a little more understated....

After restoration I left mine naked for a while and I like it at first but then really wanted some identifying marks on it for the same reason as you. I also wanted to graphics to be age appropriate for the boat, so I used an older style Supra font and the Supra wave. But I made them a little smaller than stock size and organized the wave, name, and pin stripe a little differently than stock. I've been very pleased with the results. I have all the digital files for the wave and Supra name, so any graphic shop can size them to your dimensions and color.

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/fun/amigos.jpg

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/fun/inbarn.jpg

[villain]

titan, could you please send me those files so i can have my decal guy make some. i can see how much he wants for the set. i know he will do it for cheeper than a decal shop can.

[Safety Bob]

Hello Titan, I would be interested in those graphics as well. My '88 Salt is very similar to your '86. I have buffed out my Salt several times, but have not been able to get the "kick" out of the shine as you have. Did you apply a new coat of clear to the exterior? My blue wave is now completely shot and the multicolored stripes have seen better days. The exterior finish of the hull is very good, but I need to remove all of the striping and add new. -Bob D.

[gogger]

While Mr. Hunters design has a lot of bing, I have to say I probably would like to go the more reserved route with Titan's design. If you can send my the files I would appreciate it.

[jasun]

Just for the record.... I called Dibs on Rob's decals first!!

I just got done wet sanding a bit because I was bored and cannot wait to get it done so i can put those ones on...

Villian, let me know what your guy quotes you at the decals... My salt is the same color scheme as Rob's so I have the color picked out already...

Safety Bob- Wet sand. Search for it. Long process but the only true way to restore the shine...

[TitanTn]

Here is a link to a zipped file with a left- and right-hand wave, and the Supra letters. They are all in a PSD format so they can be easily edited by a graphics shop. They are mocked up in the color I chose for my boat, but a graphics shop can print them in any color they offer.

Download file (http://unumemarketing.com/boat/supra_graphics_share.zip)

Safety Bob - Jasun hit the nail on the head. The secret to getting your oxidized gelcoat to shine is to wetsand, buff, and wax. It's a process that takes a while, but the results are worth it.

[villain]

Killer! Thanks for the link. As soon as decal guy gets back I will have him take a look at them and get a quote.

[Safety Bob]

Thank you Jasun and Titan! I have some 1000, and 1500 grit. I think that I will start with the 1500 to see if that will do the job. I know that the 1000 will cut faster, but I do not want to take too much off. My biggest problem areas are up on the deck. I was never able to get all the oxidation off by buffing or even rubbing it out by hand with the heavy grit oxidation remover compound. I am telling you, I have a ton of hours in this already just trying to rub out the oxidation off the deck. I will see if the 1500 does the job, but I may have to step up to the 1000 grit to cut through the oxidation. Does anyone know how easily the gel coat cuts? Does it cut fast or is it hard and durable? Thank you for the insight gentlemen!

The '88 Saltare still has just 291 hours on it, but it is evident that the prior owner left it out in the sun somewhat over the years and it left the deck with oxidation on it which prohibits the color from around the outside edges of the deck from standing out. The burgundy still looks dull after multiple attempts at buffing and rubbing it out. I will post before and after pics in the coming weeks.

[TitanTn]

I'm afraid that you won't see much different with 1500. It just doesn't cut enough. Gelcoat is very durable and if you're careful and thoughtful about what you're doing, it's not easy to get through it all (in other words you have to do something stupid to screw it up). You're not going to hurt anything by starting with 800, then go up to 1000 or 1500, and then buff and wax. Some people even have to start with 600.

Looking forward to some pics!

[haugy]

HEADS UP:
To those using TN Titan's graphics, be aware, they are not factory spec. Not that I'm discounting them, but just be aware that if you have any shadowing from the factory decals being removed, you will need to address with that with wetsand or polish. The ones from TN Titan will not fit the same space, they are smaller. I know he mentioned it, but figured I'd reiterate.

I'm bumping mine up to 8.2" versus the 6" from TN Titans. Hopefully (fingers and toes crossed) I actually might have some graphics later this week.

Also, I'm going to do some how-to videos on wetsanding, by hand and by pnuematic orbital. The Salt's bottom still hasn't been done since ohhhhhh probably 1994. And it's been on my low priority list to fix since I bought it. Not anymore.