What to do with an ugly dash and other electrical issues

[Rudebob]

So I recently bought this 92 comp ts6m which is somewhat of a project boat. Most of the issues are minor but many. My biggest concern so far has been a possible transmission issue. Everyone on this site has been helpful with advice dealing with it.

While I am waiting for parts to arrive to get this thing mechanically ready for use I am trying to clean up the electrical side of the boat. The dash is a mess. Not only have the elements trashed the switch/gauge panels but the previous owner tried to "improve" the condition with some faux carbon fiber material over a poorly cutout, and very thick, plastic template. No only does it look terrible but none of the switches are now labeled. To further complicate matters the 92 owners manual that came with the boat references the older style hull regarding the gauges, switches and fuse block (assuming the first 92 version with the paneled windshield and wood stringer hull design). It does not look anything like my dash. Anyway, several of the switches are not working and fuses missing or blown. I have horn, blower and bilge on the left side figured out but the lighting switches on the right I am having a tough time figuring out.

Would anyone have any info that would show which switches and fuses go to what. This would save me a lot of time trying to trace wires. Any info would be appreciated. Also, does the automatic float switch on the bilge have an on/off switch on the dash? I cannot locate a switch for this wire.

Regarding the dash. What are the owners of these older boats doing about replacing the weathered and broken panels? Unless someone has a better idea my intent is to make four new panels out a aluminum. Making the panels will be easy, cutting the rectangular slots for all the switches and looking professional at the same time is going to be the challenge. I could go with round switches which are easy to drill as one option. Any thoughts?

As always, Thanks.

'bob

[Cusefan78]

Bob ill take a picture of both sides of my dash this weekend and post it for you Sunday night. The right side is all lights except the button one is an acc. Mine controls my heat.

[DAFF]

Bob take a few shots of the dash and the back side of the wiring. Chances are others can chine in and help you through the process. A good wiring schematic will do wonders in the speeding up the process. Congrats of the new boat, add some other pics too.

[92SupraComp]

YOUR IN FOR A TREAT!!! Holy Crap, WHAT WAS SUPRA THINKING!!!! For starters, the Bilge Auto Pump Float Switch is on an unlabeled fuse that should inline with a brown wire going to the fuse panel, It is hooked up to constant 12volt! Luckily my fuse was blown... I had fun laying on my back with my legs on the captains chair under the dash! Sure is crazy as hell as to what they did... Sorry, but, would take way too many pics and writing to help you... I can try but, If only I could meet you in person... I could really save you some time... Post a pic of your dash, is it the new or old style?

[Rudebob]

13112So here is a picture of the dash. Yeah it needs a lot of work. Would you know the order of the switch function on the left side?

'bob

[trayson]

Hey Bob. I have a '92 and the wiring is problematic at best. First off, on the right side you have your nav lights at the top (obviously) and then the next two switches are "Interior Light" and "Court Light". On some boats, they have a light in the front storage locker or under the front bow that the INT LT switch powers. On mine, I honestly couldn't find anything that this switch did. So I removed it and used it to power my tower lights.

The Court Light switch goes to the little light that's below your observer seat as well as sending power to the switched lights that are below your cupholders. My switch/bulb assembly below my cupholders was so rusted that I skipped trying to make those work. I tapped into my court light circuit to add lots of interior LED strip lighting to my boat.

The last switch is Accessory. Again, I'm not sure what the intent of this switch was and what it does. It might at one time have powered something or been a relay trigger to turn on and off constant power. Honestly not sure.

On the left side, you obviously have horn, bilge and blower. My bilge has a float switch and it wired to constant power. (I can of course kill it via my Perko Battery switch). The bilge switch on the dash will turn it on manually. I guess if my float switch failed I could override it and power the pump???? Dunno.

The power and grounds under the dash suck balls. I brought in a fresh 8 guage from the battery switch to the power post on my fuse distro block. Likewise, I bought a ground bus bar and ran a clean 8 guage ground wire to the neg of my battery. Kinda like one of these.
http://images.jamestowndistributors.com/woeimages/electrical/250_250/blu-14126.jpg

My perfect pass and volt meter gauge had NEVER shown above 12 volts and when I ran those extra power and ground runs, I get over 12 with the boat running or not running. It's GREAT to finally have decent voltage under the dash. In fact, I used to have a problem with my stereo deck that it'd re-boot itself when I had the volume up because it wasn't getting enough power.

Supra wired in one power and ground lead and then piggy backed all the guages and stuff to run off that. You can see all the zillion piggyback terminals on the switches. Lame.

Here's a pic of my 1992 Sunsport Dash:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WEMEW6vporE/UVO5aN2GJtI/AAAAAAAANuI/kPMmd8GG44g/s800/photo%2520%25286%2529.jpg
Sorry it's not good resolution. I don't have any better ones handy. Also, those panels you're talking about replacing that are for the switch and gauge surrounds I think are plastic, not metal. So maybe plastic and some dremmel work might be the ticket???

[Rudebob]

Trayson:

Thanks for the pictures and explanation of switches. It looks like I have the same dash. Your reference to the ground issue is something I had not considered as of yet but now is beginning to makes sense. Like the manual switch on the bilge will send ~12 volts to the leads at the pump, but it barely runs. Also, as you mention, my stereo reboots anytime you turn another switch on. The ground issue may end up fixing several of my problems.

Thanks again for the info.

'bob

[Moor]

Trayson:

Thanks for the pictures and explanation of switches. It looks like I have the same dash. Your reference to the ground issue is something I had not considered as of yet but now is beginning to makes sense. Like the manual switch on the bilge will send ~12 volts to the leads at the pump, but it barely runs. Also, as you mention, my stereo reboots anytime you turn another switch on. The ground issue may end up fixing several of my problems.

Thanks again for the info.

'bob


BOB - I would check your battery and charging system in addition to your ground. My stereo was doing the same thing, rebooting evertime i turned something on in the boat. Also all my dash lights would flicker randomly (VERY annoying at night). Long story short, my alternator was not charing my batteries, but putting out 13.5 volts at the alternator. I ran a new charge wire back to my dual batteries, problem solved.

[trayson]

BOB - I would check your battery and charging system in addition to your ground. My stereo was doing the same thing, rebooting evertime i turned something on in the boat. Also all my dash lights would flicker randomly (VERY annoying at night). Long story short, my alternator was not charing my batteries, but putting out 13.5 volts at the alternator. I ran a new charge wire back to my dual batteries, problem solved.

Bob, I forgot to mention that I replaced almost all of my battery cables with zero gauge welding cable with new terminals:



Battery to engine block ground
Batteries to Perko switch
Negative cable between the two batteries
starter relay junction post to starter


additional resistance from bad cables is bad in these boats (I think it contributed to my starter issues).

[92SupraComp]

13121

I replaced my switch panels with Carbon Fiber panels from Ebay, got them engraved at a jewelry store in the mall :P Replaced the gauges with Teleflex Amega Series gauges. I rewired a bit and added grounds so that fixed my electrical issues...

Oh, and the reason for the small gauge panel pulling out is, I epoxied bolts onto the backs of the panels... You would think epoxy and fiberglass would hold those bolts for years... but no, they started popping off within the first week! :mad:

[trayson]

13121

I replaced my switch panels with Carbon Fiber panels from Ebay, got them engraved at a jewelry store in the mall :P Replaced the gauges with Teleflex Amega Series gauges. I rewired a bit and added grounds so that fixed my electrical issues...

Oh, and the reason for the small gauge panel pulling out is, I epoxied bolts onto the backs of the panels... You would think epoxy and fiberglass would hold those bolts for years... but no, they started popping off within the first week! :mad:

That looks pretty hot. Did you have to cut the CF panels to size? I can't imagine they came already sized correctly. If there is a place where you can get PRECUT panels, then let us all know!

If you had to cut them yourself, how did you cut out the holes for the switches and gauges?

[92SupraComp]

We bought the panels on ebay. Bought The thickest for strength. My dad bought a proper roto-zip tool (mini router). We traced it out as best we could. The switch hols we a little too big to hold the new switches on the left tightly, so I hot glued them in. Worked out pretty good...

Would like to do the big panel but I want the Engine Warning lights... Still figuring out a way to work around that...