Need a little more help from you tranny experts

[Rudebob]

So I talked to a guy at skidim. He recommended trying to replace the front and rear seals first to see it it solved the leak. I his opinion, the cost of the seals vs. a complete rebuild were worth the gamble to see if it would fix the problem. His feeling was that even if the tranny did end up needing a rebuild, pulling the tranny again would be much easier and quicker a second time. At this point I am not certain what to do but at least I need to I get it out to make a decision.

I started to pull it today but ran into a few snags. The biggest so far is that the coupler does not want to come apart after unbolting. I tried tapping on it with a hammer but I am nervous about getting a "bigger hammer". Any suggestions about how to get them apart? Also, how freely should the shaft slide away from the tranny? Also, I am thinking I may repack the flax seal while I have the access. Does anyone know if these boats use the 1/4" or 3/13" packing?

As far as raising the motor some of you have mentioned a comealong or some type of winch. How are you attaching the engine block. I read somewhere to use a bottle jack on the underside of the exhaust riser. This looks to possibly be the best approach, however, I am assuming I should be using one on each side. Is this a good approach. How high do I need to raise the motor?

Besides the coupler what all do I need to unbolt before I raise the engine? So far I have all the externals (cooler hoses, shift linkage, lockout wires, etc), front and rear pinch (trunion) bolts. Do I remove the bolts shown with the purple arrows in the photo next?13153

Finally, do I need to do anything or note the position of anything as I pull the tranny out so that it will all go back without any problems (pilot tool, etc.)?

Sorry for all the questions. I bought a service manual from Skidim (which I have since found available for free online), however, this is nothing in it about R & R'ing the tranny. I have researched this subject all over the web, however, there is no step by step and few photo references to help. Everyone had their own terminology for components. People say it is easy but I feel like I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous and screw something up.

Any thoughts would be appreciated-especially how to get the coupler separated. Right now I need a little more confidence.

As always,

Thanks.

'bob

[awesomesteven]

Look up a post by csuggs for his damper plate replacement. He did a good job on his write up on how to pull the tranny.

For the coupler, maybe use a little wd40 and let it soak in for a few minutes?

[trayson]

Tips for tranny stuff:


Unscrew the floor piece that's over the shaft and slide it to the stern for better access.
Remember that when you pull the tranny, you have to do an alignment upon reinstall. Not hard, just tedius.
Get a 8 point socket to adjust the transmission mounts.
I used a ratchet strap to my tower mounts to lift engine. I could not get the bottle jack thing to work.
A Full rebuild was $900 from Fantastic Finishes Marine with a 2 to 3 day turnaround once they recieved it. I shipped it fedex ground for a total of under $100 shipping roundtrip.
For reinatallation, I put the tranny stringer mounts back on the tranny and put it in that way.
another way to get more room for removal is to pull the SS exhaust pipes that are directly above the tranny mounts.
I think I used a deadblow hammer to separate things
YES, a clutch pilot tool will help tremendously for reinstallation. I didn't have the foresight to get a brass bilot bearing so I used a universal pilot tool.
Replace the rear main seal while in there.
Check the teeth on your flywheel ring gear. A new ring gear was $26 from my auto parts store, and $126 from skidim. Their prices aren't always great.
If you are flushing fluild from your tranny, use an air compressor to blow out the transmission cooler.

[trayson]

The arrows with the purple bolts are tough to get to on one side. they bolt the mounts to the tranny. If you don't remove these you WILL have to take out the 4 lag bolts from the mounts that screw into the stringer.

[Cusefan78]

For the shaft loosen the two nuts on the shaft remove the four bolts on the coupler out a screw driver between the two and it will separate. After it separates you can slide the shaft straight down.

If you have a tower or a sky pylon use a come along around the pylon of tower then wrap a strap around the back of the tranny ( the case on the output shaft) you need to remove the 8 bolts from the tranny mounts to the stringers. Loosen the top nut on both engine mounts. After that crank it up few inches and slide a 4x4 under the motor and lower the motor on the block.

If I were you I would change the clutches while you're changing the seals. It's only about 20 mins more work and $200. It doesn't make any sence to open up the tranny to change seals and not do the clutches. You probably wouldn't have to do the reverse clutches but the forward I would do. While you have it apart check the forward drum for cracks. If there are any cracks the drum needs to be changed and you'll have to remove the piston out of the old one and seat it in the new drum. Don't get frustrated its a pretty simple job especially if you have the Manual. Lastly make sure to mark the pump cover cause it needs to go back in the same position or your boat won't move.

Good luck