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biggsie
10-17-2013, 12:00 AM
So I have been lurking here for a while researching older Supras with the intention of finding one for myself. The day before I was leaving to go on a 5 hour drive to look at a 1984 Rider, I found this one on CL. Condition is pretty rough but I wanted a winter project, the price was right and it was less than a 2 hour drive. Long story short I bought a 1986 Sunsport. The motor (351W) runs well and has even compression (~100psi) on all 8, electronic ignition, new Holley carb, 1:1 velvet drive etc...The hull has a few big dings here and there but not too bad. The gelcoat and stripes need some attention for sure. Cutting board swim platform(:?). Trailer is rough but seems to "fit" the boat ok (not a supra trailer). The interior is gone and the floor is very soft on the left side of the engine compartment. The rear motor mount bolts are loose confirming bad stringers. (As I write this I'm wondering why I even bought it LOL!) I have a bunch of spare parts from the previous owner including a complete tranny, steering cable assy, shift cable assy, manifolds, water pump, brand new captain's chairs, bell-housing, flywheel etc...

My plan is to build a boat that I can surf and wake board behind with my family and not have a boat payment :)

Engine is coming out this weekend and floor will be removed soon after. I hope to not have to take off the top cap but we will see.

This boat appears to have never had a ski pylon?

Wake plate is non adjustable?

To be continued.....
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biggsie
10-17-2013, 12:14 AM
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James
10-17-2013, 12:25 AM
Sounds like a good candidate for a vdrive conversion :D

biggsie
10-17-2013, 12:33 AM
Sounds like a good candidate for a vdrive conversion :D
I'll be happy if it is water ready by spring! I can't imagine the amount of time a V-Drive setup would take to get done properly. The drivetrain is the only thing on this boat that doesn't need attention!

TitanTn
10-17-2013, 08:23 AM
I concur with Ngavdba on all accounts. You've got a solid project on your hands, but it's very doable, and the trailer is likely the original (and definitely native to Supra boats). It looks exactly like my SMP trailer (other than I've restored mine).

There are lots of small things that need attention, but the the obvious thing is the stringers. It sounds like you know what you're getting into, but tackle that first and everything else is elementary. Keep us updated.

Cliff
10-17-2013, 11:52 PM
Haha I just called about that boat yesterday lol. Nice find. The trailer was worth more than the guys asking price. Nice project. You will have to keep us updated

biggsie
10-18-2013, 05:30 PM
Started the floor removal last night. Foam is soaked and stringers are rotten:(. I knew the boat seemed heavy on the way home! That soaked foam must weigh a ton, should have thrown a decent wake lol! The top cap is coming off for sure, more pics coming soon.

biggsie
10-19-2013, 11:48 PM
More progress today. Had some help from the boys, removed rub rail and drilled out all the rivets. Unscrewed cap from floor, unhooked anything that is connecting the two halves etc... She should be coming home in three pieces tomorrow ;)
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biggsie
10-20-2013, 04:58 PM
Today was a sucess! I removed the windshield last night to shed some weight and so I didn't have to worry about it braking. Short trailer trip to my friends place (X2). Picked out the motor with the tractor and set it in the middle of my 18' trailer, easy. Moved over next to his equip trailer and picked off the cap using two straps secured to the four cleats. Piece of cake! The cap and motor fit my trailer perfect, screwed the gunnels to the trailer floor and built a brace for the bow. Got the motor winterized and and tarped the trailer. Now for the foam and rotten wood removal :(

I'm wondering if I should take the hull off the trailer and block it up. The SMP trailer is in need of some serious work and I don't know if I want to wait untill the spring to get the boat off the trailer. Now would be the time I guess.... it is as light as it will ever be right now.

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biggsie
10-20-2013, 07:15 PM
I'm allowing myself about 5 months, after that my shop will be too busy and I will need the space back. I own a Motorcycle/ATV repair shop and it gets pretty slow in the winter. Now that I said that, watch us have snow storms all the time and have no place to put the sleds that are always broken!

Good call on starting the trailer first. I am not sure how to block up the hull, 3 points of contact?

DAFF
10-20-2013, 10:25 PM
With the cap removed the boat will be very unstable and the sides will need support too. Two large railway ties with cross bridging and a few casters on the bottom would make it a oversized Supra cart so it could be wheeled around the shop while its drying. This would also make entry/exits much more pleasant through out the rebuild and save lots of space in the shop.

biggsie
10-20-2013, 10:46 PM
Daff, do you have a picture of this "cart"? I'm leaning towards building five pillar stands shaped to the bottom of the hull and bracing the top walls with a 2x4 notched canoe style. The cart idea sounds cool because I could push it into the corner when I need more room. I really wish I had 4 bays open.... one for the bottom, one for the top, one for the trailer, and one for the drivetrain and interior. Oh well, at least I'm not working in my basement or out in the driveway!

DAFF
10-20-2013, 11:15 PM
Think of a basic boat lift cradle made of wood with caster wheels under it. My uploader will not work right now.....

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-topics-questions-not-engine-topics/wash-rack-type-boat-lift-391589.html

This will point you in the right direction.

biggsie
10-22-2013, 12:07 PM
Working on removing the old floor and chipping out the soaked foam. I'm sure many of you feel my pain, this job sucks! I had to drill some limber holes in the rotten stringers to get the water out! In some spots I had gallons of water pooled and trapped by foam. The factory did not do a good job covering all the wood with glass. Spending hours removing this stuff gives me plenty of time to think about how to do it properly with drainage and air flow. I wonder where this boat will be 30 years from now?

Definitely going to move on to the trailer after all the foam and stringers are out, she needs to dry out!

Priced out a couple boat stands...$$$... I think I'll make some. I don't plan on doing any work to the inside of the hull until it's back on the trailer.

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jasun
10-22-2013, 02:25 PM
I ran into the same thing.

Here is my rebuild. Have a look and it might answer some questions.

http://s919.photobucket.com/user/jasunderland/library/boat%20rebuild

biggsie
10-27-2013, 05:32 PM
Finally done with the foam removal. 11 bags full, probably about 1500lbs or more with the water logged wood.

More progress! Who needs a set of boat stands;). Should be working on the bunks and steps tonight. I also ordered some sliders.

Question for you guys: my bunk brackets are 10 ft apart and I got 12' lumber. Should I overhang a foot on either side? Also there is a spot for a 12" v-roller in the rear, should I get one?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/hejyryve.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/yduqeteb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/atumubev.jpg



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biggsie
10-27-2013, 05:45 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/haneha4u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/ysypasyd.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/3eqy6e3e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/7azynasy.jpg


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biggsie
10-27-2013, 05:47 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/9eryja6u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/azegadyb.jpg


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TitanTn
10-27-2013, 06:26 PM
Wow! You are making some quick progress. Looking great. The rear roller depends on how your boat site on the trailer. Mine doesn't ever hit it, but I'd still replace it. It's possible that it'd come into play on a steep ramp.

Ptownkid
10-27-2013, 07:04 PM
SO jealous of you guys with a boat sized garage...

biggsie
10-27-2013, 11:46 PM
What goes on the top and inside edge of the fenders? I think the gap is too small for 2x material and carpet. 3/4 or 5/4 maybe?? Anyone got some pics for me?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/28/bahareba.jpg


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biggsie
10-27-2013, 11:50 PM
There is also an "L" shaped bracket about 6 to 8 inches below the fender on the inside. What is that for? Thanks for the help in advance!


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biggsie
10-28-2013, 10:38 AM
Perfect! That is the picture I needed, thanks!


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TitanTn
10-28-2013, 07:05 PM
This may be the same type of pic as Ngavdba, but I can't see his pics for some reason, so this might be redundant, but here's a pic of my trailer after a rebuild this past winter.

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/trailer5.jpg

Jetlink
10-28-2013, 11:21 PM
Trailer contest...go! Gotta give the lead to NGAVDA for the awesome license plate though. Sorry Rob...

biggsie
10-29-2013, 01:22 AM
Still have to wire the lights, paint the rims and get some new rubber. So far I've spent a little over $300 on the trailer. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/29/da7e8a8y.jpg


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Cliff
10-29-2013, 10:17 AM
Wow Looks great. U are speeding thru that work! Nice job

TitanTn
10-29-2013, 01:16 PM
Trailer contest...go! Gotta give the lead to NGAVDA for the awesome license plate though. Sorry Rob...

Now that hurts. Can I get a point back for the custom diamond plating?

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/new_trailer2.jpg

Biggsie - looking great! And the speed at which you're getting it done is awesome. You inspired me last night and I went ahead and started my winter project on my Salt. Keep it up.

biggsie
10-29-2013, 02:03 PM
All by myself.... no I don't sleep much! The speed of the trailer rebuild is fueled by needing the space back in the shop. I should be rolling it out today and getting back to customer work tomorrow.

Waiting for gel coat to come in. Have to repair some spots on the hull, strip off decals and sand/buff/polish before I can slide the trailer back under her. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/uja3asav.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/e4e5ygeb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/ynyge5ys.jpg


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Jetlink
10-29-2013, 03:12 PM
Now that hurts. Can I get a point back for the custom diamond plating?

Tell you what, that is worth a point for each piece of diamond plating. Tally points accordingly.

biggsie
10-29-2013, 07:26 PM
Done for now. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/4ese5u6e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/2ymurame.jpg


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masongardner
10-30-2013, 06:08 PM
Nice job. Looking forward to seeing all your progress.

biggsie
11-02-2013, 08:57 PM
Here is an update on the project.
The inside of the hull is nice and dry now, I had the wood stove going for a week. I have stripped the stripe and wave on one side (3M wheel). I sanded down the areas of gel coat to be repaired. I mixed up some hi-bond no wax with a small amount of silica for a thicker mix. Applied to areas and waited ( probably not long enough) for it to tack up. Then I covered the repairs ( squeegee to smooth) with a sheets of window plastic from the hardware store cut to fit. After about 5 min the areas I did first were all full of wrinkles! Fortunately I had two spots left to cover so I searched the shop for something better to use. I came up with a package of tear-offs for motocross goggles. Applied over the last two spots with that and no wrinkles! Curing tonight with the heat on so fingers crossed.... Thinking I'm going to have to sand down the wrinkled spots and start over:(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/a3ytydy3.jpg


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biggsie
11-03-2013, 11:23 AM
Here is the difference in using the right materials! The tear-offs work perfect! I guess I'll be sanding off all the wrinkles and starting over. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/uqaqy8uj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/hyta5yvu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/ehy6aneh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/u3eva6eq.jpg


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biggsie
11-03-2013, 12:57 PM
Before and after of the damage on the spot that I used the tear offs. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/deqyzedu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/4ajyzaqe.jpg


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biggsie
11-03-2013, 05:29 PM
And the whole time I thought the orange stripe was supposed to be gold!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/u2y5etan.jpg


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chris young
11-03-2013, 07:17 PM
Over the years of building windsurfers, I've tried every crazy idea I can to reduce the sanding as you're doing, and none are all that effective unless you vacuum bag, and even then everything has to be perfect in order to get a good finish, and it still has to be sanded. If you want a relatively good finish with this type of work, you can apply either commercially made peel ply, or go to your local fabric store and buy nylon fabric, (like what they use to make wind breakers) and stretch it out over your lamination. It actually serves a couple of purposes, firstly it gives you a nice even textured surface that you can top coat, and second it absorbs excess resin.

To be clear, you leave it in place until the resin is cured.

That poor hull has taken a real beating, you're definitely building Karma by bringing her back. Good on ya!

suprasam
11-04-2013, 10:30 AM
Nice job on putting that boat back together. I had that same exact boat (year and color), she is going to look great at the end. But dang it looks like she was used at an amusement park for bumper boats.

biggsie
11-05-2013, 12:16 AM
So in the last couple days I have been working on the hull. I've fixed the bad spots with new gel coat, wet sanded the repair areas starting with 400 then 600 then I did the whole thing with 1000. Followed up with "buff magic" on a wool pad. I have to say this gel coat is HARD and I failed getting it back to its original white color that is present under the stripe and registration #'s. I even tried 120 dry on my palm sander with no results! So next up is painting a new 4" stripe over the ghost stripe. I'm going to use interlux brightside with the roll and tip method. After the stripe is done I plan to wet sand the new paint, buff it out and wax the entire hull.

I also have a set of foam pads for the buffer, should I use the "one step" compound with those before the wax?

Should the wax be applied by hand?

Any recommendation on a wax to use?

I'm a rookie with the buffer but it seems to be coming out pretty good. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/05/eqe9eran.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/05/6u4ureta.jpg


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biggsie
11-05-2013, 12:17 AM
Working hard to get that shiny trailer back under her!


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TitanTn
11-05-2013, 08:20 AM
I'm not sure what the one step is, but after the buffing I would use a finisher/polisher like Finesse It. Then wax. I'd do the buffing and polisher with a buffer and wax by hand. I'm sure others have don't it differently, but the wax is a protector, not a finisher that needs to do "work." It just needs to be applied, and sometimes a buffer can actually burn the wax off and not leave it applied.

Looking great, and again, you're making great progress.

James
11-05-2013, 09:05 AM
I also do waxing by hand. I use the mcguires stuff at west marine and just wipe small circles with a little applied pressure until it leave a hazy kind of coat on it. I then let it sit for about 5 mins while working another spot and go back over it with another ta go get it off. Has always turned out great for me.

csuggs
11-06-2013, 09:33 AM
Wow! That's looking really good! I've not been on here for a while.
Are you sure there was no pilon or do you think it could have been removed? There would have been a steel crossmember just in front of the motor for a pilon. That may be the difference between the Sunsport and the Sunsport Skier for 1986


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biggsie
11-06-2013, 10:07 AM
Wow! That's looking really good! I've not been on here for a while.
Are you sure there was no pilon or do you think it could have been removed? There would have been a steel crossmember just in front of the motor for a pilon. That may be the difference between the Sunsport and the Sunsport Skier for 1986


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I'm sure, no support bracket, no hole in floor. The wake plate is small and doesn't have the adjustment struts either. Strange..... Should have bee called the tuber!


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suprasam
11-06-2013, 10:39 AM
I had the exact boat, and mine did not have the pilon or the cross-member either. I always just assumed the prior owner had taken it out when the floor was worked on.

csuggs
11-06-2013, 11:26 AM
The Sunsport Skier has the adjustable wake plate and pilon. You really don't need it since I'm guessing you'll go with a tower. And I keep my wake plate flat and never adjust it so it's probably not an issue. The only time I use my pilon is if I'm pulling a heavy, inexperienced guy on a wakeboard or if pulling multiple tubes.

biggsie
11-06-2013, 01:28 PM
Maybe mine is not a skier then. I haven't looked into a hull id # decoder, is there one?


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biggsie
11-06-2013, 01:33 PM
Starting the paint! So far I like the product, rolled on a thin coat and tipped it with a 3" brush. Lays down flat and looks nice. Going to do three coats on the stripe. I have the gray primer for upper section of hull. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/eqanehaj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/y2y8a6an.jpg


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biggsie
11-06-2013, 04:48 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/5ymygene.jpg


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csuggs
11-06-2013, 06:16 PM
Maybe mine is not a skier then. I haven't looked into a hull id # decoder, is there one?


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Yes. I have a copy of the 1986 manual with id codes. I can email to you if you like.

biggsie
11-06-2013, 07:06 PM
That would be awesome! Thanks! [email protected]


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chris young
11-07-2013, 09:19 AM
If it wouldn't be too much trouble, I'd love to get a copy of that manual as well [email protected]. I've never been able to find a Rider Manual, but from what I understand the early Sunsports were pretty much the same boat.

biggsie
11-08-2013, 06:42 PM
Bottom stripe is almost done. Just need to hit it with the buffer. The upper section has two coats and I'm not happy with the coverage. I should have gone with the lighter color primer. It looks like a totally different color! Hoping I can get it to match after another coat or two. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/09/8avuteve.jpg


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Byron
11-09-2013, 09:08 AM
Great progress! Keep the photos coming, I foresee this project coming my way soon.

biggsie
11-09-2013, 11:12 AM
Great progress! Keep the photos coming, I foresee this project coming my way soon.

Keuka lake is 18 miles from me and it is the furthest out of the three lakes I go to. I love being surrounded by finger lakes!


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Byron
11-11-2013, 06:25 PM
Keuka lake is 18 miles from me and it is the furthest out of the three lakes I go to. I love being surrounded by finger lakes!


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Didn't realize you were right down the street! I meant I'll be tackling stringers in my boat at some point...I have an '87 same model and color.

92SupraComp
11-11-2013, 11:15 PM
Keuka lake is 18 miles from me and it is the furthest out of the three lakes I go to. I love being surrounded by finger lakes!


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Reall!?! I expect to see you on the lake next summer then! Will have to remember to look out for bright yellow sunspot... hope I dont miss it lol... Where do you boat? up the Pen-Yann finger, Branchport, or down around Hammondsport?

biggsie
11-11-2013, 11:21 PM
I usually launch from the park. Every once in a while in penn yan.


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Byron
11-12-2013, 06:36 PM
Keuka lake is 18 miles from me and it is the furthest out of the three lakes I go to. I love being surrounded by finger lakes!


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I didn't even realize you were right down the road! I meant I'll be doing stringers in the near future. I'll keep an eye out for your yellow Sunsport! I'm right were the three legs of Keuka join on the East side.

biggsie
11-13-2013, 06:00 PM
Done with the yellow for now. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/14/eda9uqy3.jpg


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biggsie
11-13-2013, 06:02 PM
Before and after the "nose job". 1356713568


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biggsie
11-13-2013, 06:05 PM
Another before and after. It's not perfect but I'm also not patient enough to be a body/paint guy. 1356913570


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TitanTn
11-13-2013, 08:39 PM
It appears to be looking great. The photo quality is lack-luster and I wonder if it's the tapatalk app that is compressing the photo. Your iphone should be taking much better pics.

biggsie
11-13-2013, 08:43 PM
Yeah I'm in love with this app but the pic quality does suffer.


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biggsie
11-13-2013, 09:04 PM
13571


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TitanTn
11-13-2013, 09:11 PM
Yeah! That's getting shiny.

biggsie
11-15-2013, 12:32 AM
Getting tired of painting. Should have my decals soon. After they are on I'm waxing it and calling it good. I'm debating if I should paint the top cap before or after setting it back on.

Next up:
Get trailer under her
Repair/replace stringers and floor135731357413575


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biggsie
11-18-2013, 01:13 AM
I'm sure the pics don't do it justice but the paint responds very well to wet sanding and buffing. Way easier than that rock hard gel coat!13579


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biggsie
11-18-2013, 01:17 PM
eBay decal. It's a little smaller than the original but I think it looks nice. I'm an idiot and didn't realize the other side needs to be a mirror image. I sent the seller a message asking if they can do it. Fingers crossed that it's no problem. 13580


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biggsie
11-18-2013, 06:32 PM
And another one. 13581


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TitanTn
11-18-2013, 09:21 PM
I really like the Supra logo on the front of hull, but where are you going to put your registration numbers?

biggsie
11-18-2013, 11:26 PM
Below that over the "ghost" numbers. I'm hoping the NY DMV lets me keep the same reg numbers. Not that anyone is going to ever notice! It's so slight I'm not sure I can even get a pic. 13582


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biggsie
11-19-2013, 11:49 PM
Small milestone today. She's back on the trailer. Gas tank removed and stringer system measurements taken. Decals on the trailer also. 13585135861358713588


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wotan2525
11-20-2013, 02:02 PM
I swear this is the fastest restoration, ever! Do you have a 9-5??

biggsie
11-20-2013, 04:51 PM
I am the owner/operator of www.naplespowersports.com. This is a slow time if year for me because all the motorcycles, dirt bikes and quads are put away and there is no snow for the sleds. I feel like I still have A LOT of work left, I don't even have a floor yet and all the interior is going to be built from scratch. Not to mention all the paint/buff/wax work that the top cap is going to need.


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biggsie
12-01-2013, 03:41 PM
Stringers are getting a patch job and new "sister" supports. All the new wood is going to be treated with CPES. once the new wood is bedded in it will get some glass work for extra strength. If the boat is kept dry and the stringers are not covered with soaking wet foam it should outlast me! After examination of the work done by the factory it seems that the interior hull construction is certainly not rocket science! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/02/hemyma9e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/02/a4yhy3a6.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/02/5e4e8y9e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/02/9adunu5u.jpg


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biggsie
12-02-2013, 12:55 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/03/a9use5az.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/03/yguhu7an.jpg

And a pic of my new (to me) surf board. Inland surfer blue lake eBay find!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/03/egupamy8.jpg


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trayson
12-04-2013, 01:17 PM
Have you thought about plumbing in a custom ballast system under the floor? That's what I would do if I was in your spot. I have to imagine you could come up with tanks or bags or something to be where that foam was...

If you want to surf, you WILL need ballast. I run 1500 pound in my 92 sunsport. It takes up a LOT of the interior space and I have to use throwover pumps. If you were able to plumb something infloor, you could use hardwired pumps and it would be amazing.

You have a serious opportunity here!!!

biggsie
12-04-2013, 01:33 PM
No worries, I took advantage of www.wakemakers.com Black Friday sale! 2,300lbs of boat sinking ballast on its way!


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trayson
12-04-2013, 02:14 PM
No worries, I took advantage of www.wakemakers.com Black Friday sale! 2,300lbs of boat sinking ballast on its way!


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Nicely done. my wife used their BF sale to get us check valves for all our bags (NO MORE SPILLED WATER!) and a new Tsunami pump (with the no kink hose upgrade). I used my money from stuff I've been selling on CL to justify a ONeill Boost Drysuit and 4 of the Exile bouy balls.

Wakemakers is the best.

TitanTn
12-04-2013, 02:23 PM
Ballast under the floor has been considered many times and even accomplished in a few cases. I don't remember the numbers, but the end result is that it's not worth the effort. There's just not enough space.

biggsie
12-04-2013, 02:24 PM
Not much room under the floor. Up front maybe but not in the rear where I need it.


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trayson
12-04-2013, 02:39 PM
Ballast under the floor has been considered many times and even accomplished in a few cases. I don't remember the numbers, but the end result is that it's not worth the effort. There's just not enough space.


Not much room under the floor. Up front maybe but not in the rear where I need it.


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Good to know. I'm sure you will definitley take ballast into consideration when you make your interior. under the rear seat is one area where ballast is easy and makes sense. That's where I have hard plumbed ballast in my sunsport.

biggsie
12-04-2013, 07:59 PM
Here is a pic of the test fitting of the new wood. I'm a little concerned about floor height, the factory used 1/2 inch flooring. When I put 1/2" ply on top of the existing stringers the floor seems high. I left a "lip" around the entire hull. I'm going to grind down the tops a little and call it good. It's almost impossible to tell if there will be an issue until the top goes back on!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/05/u4a7evyq.jpg


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biggsie
12-04-2013, 08:00 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/05/eruhabem.jpganother one.


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TitanTn
12-04-2013, 09:32 PM
I think you're on a good path. Most people get the floor as close as they can and then adjust the top when putting it back on.

biggsie
01-26-2014, 12:41 AM
Ok here's an update. I wasn't sure about putting foam back in the boat but felt that it would increase rigidity and sound dampening. I settled on Tiger Foam. I used a 200 sq ft fast rising kit and it was very easy to use and I was pleased with the result.
All the wood (new & old) has been treated with CPES but to increase the layer of protection and give me a nice finish for the bilge I decided to bed liner the entire hull. The bed liner kit was from Liner Xtreem.
Because of future plans for a FAE system I left the exhaust protruding from the transom about an inch.
Once the bed liner is dry I will be installing the pylon mount I fabricated and the plywood floor.
I plan to coat the floor with CPES then bed liner without rubber followed by hydro turf or sea deck. No carpet on the floor!
Stay tuned for more progress and thank you for all the positive comments!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/3ebymuge.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/pymyne8a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/ydybyguh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/y6a4egaj.jpg


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biggsie
01-26-2014, 12:43 AM
More pics, not sure why they are so crappy. It's not giving me an option for better resolution. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/ebu3ujyv.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/7e9ybu2u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/a4y2ehan.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/yqeraby6.jpg


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Cliff
01-26-2014, 09:20 AM
Wow looks sweet. I like the spray in liner. Good work buddy!

bens250ex
01-26-2014, 03:56 PM
so you did not fiberglass the new wood you put in?

biggsie
01-26-2014, 04:57 PM
I only glassed in the sections of stringers that were removed. All the other new wood is "sistered" to the original stringers.


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cadunkle
01-28-2014, 01:17 PM
If this wood is either bare or just treated with CPES, no glass, I'd expect you'll be doing this again at some point. Why not glass in all the wood?

biggsie
01-28-2014, 01:32 PM
Well I can tell you that I will not be doing it again. If someone wants to do it again in 20+ years good for them. There is enough bed liner coating everything that water should never get through. Besides that I keep my boats dry, covered and cared for.

Glass is for structure not waterproofing. This hull is rock solid and will last me as long as I want it to.

I know this is not the typical restoration that is seen on this forum but there are many ways to skin a cat. I would rather spend my time and money on the interior and be able to SURF this spring.


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biggsie
01-28-2014, 01:53 PM
Sorry, that sounded super defensive. I just get frustrated that everyone thinks restoring a Supra is rocket science and can only be done one way. If you take one apart like many of us have you will find that below the floor there wasn't much attention to detail. Glass was there for structure and bare wood was left exposed to rot in many places. Don't even get me started with the open cell foam!


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biggsie
01-28-2014, 01:54 PM
Or should I say open cell sponge!


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ckracing
01-28-2014, 10:33 PM
Way off topic - do you have quick access to you swim platform mounts? I'd love to get some quick measurements on them as my boat is currently tucked away in storage (no easy access). I'd like to order some new ones from here - http://www.alloymarine.com/indexII/swimdeck.htm

If not - no problem and the restoration is moving right along. Great job!

biggsie
01-28-2014, 11:20 PM
Standing right next to them!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/29/jytu9y4a.jpg
16" on the platform edge
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/29/umady7a7.jpg
8" & 5" on the transom edge
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/29/y7ujevyh.jpg
About 63* angle
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/29/ysemahy9.jpg
and 2" wide

Happy to help!


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ckracing
01-29-2014, 11:14 PM
Thanks - perfect.
Really appreciate the thoughtfulness and accuracy.
-Chris

biggsie
02-02-2014, 11:08 AM
Floor is down. 3 coats of bed liner, came out nice. It is too textured for the 3M stuff on the sea dek/ hydro so I will have to use adhesive paste.

Still trying to decide what to tackle next. Top cap paint, engine rebuild, swim platform etc.....http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/vyzamy5u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/veregaqe.jpg


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TitanTn
02-02-2014, 12:36 PM
I'm a carpet guy, but it's looking good.

I'd vote for the top cap next. That way you can have something kinda buttoned up before tackling the next thing. Plus, it's nice to have your two halves back together as soon as reasonably possible for warping issues.


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Salty87
02-03-2014, 09:48 PM
choice of flooring will basically decide. if you want it under the dash/bow section then do the flooring first. if you want to cut around all of that then drop the cap back on.

if you're painting the cap, do that before it's on the boat. decide if you want to clean up any dash wiring first, too.

biggsie
02-03-2014, 09:57 PM
I agree Salty. Flooring will be put down in sections when the interior is complete. I am painting/ buffing the top and will be redoing the entire dash. I think I'm better off with the top on my equipment trailer instead of the hull.


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haugy
02-04-2014, 07:20 PM
That thing is looking good. Nice work! Be careful with that hydro-turf though, it's super grippy. I've gone from one guys boat to mine, expecting to have some slip but in fact my platform was so grippy that when I didn't pick me feet up enough I almost fell on my face.

Again, nice work. Can't wait to see this thing finished.

biggsie
02-12-2014, 10:13 PM
Test fitting the FAE. So far I have about $30 invested ;)http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/13/ry4ebeje.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/13/me7y3upe.jpg


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92SupraComp
02-14-2014, 02:51 PM
I doubt the pvc will be able to stand the exhuast temp... Have you ever put your hand over the exhaust while cruising? Its HOT. Way above the 140 pvc is rated for....

biggsie
02-14-2014, 03:00 PM
Considering it will be submerged in lake water I'm pretty sure it will be fine ;).


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trayson
02-14-2014, 03:11 PM
I doubt the pvc will be able to stand the exhuast temp... Have you ever put your hand over the exhaust while cruising? Its HOT. Way above the 140 pvc is rated for....

Well, what are the exhaust flanges on your boat made of? Mine are plastic.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100698

92SupraComp
02-14-2014, 05:12 PM
What type of plastic are they made of? I have the same just 3.5"

The pvc wont be so submerged when your cruising, the entire transom is out of the water when cruising, on any boat I have ridden in... I can't hold my hand over our Supra's exhuast for more than 2 sec. It is extremely hot, our friends MC still has the long mufflers in and they make a huge difference in exhaust temp but it is still blistering hot coming out the rear...

chris young
02-15-2014, 11:35 AM
Don't forget there is water mixed with the exhaust, I don't think that there is much danger of overheating the pipe. I've never bothered to see just how hot the exhaust is at speed, but if as you say you can hold your hand there for 2 seconds, it's not terribly hot. You wouldn't be able to hold your hand over the vent of a whistling kettle for that long and it's only 212F. I'm keen to see how this setup works out, I've been thinking about my own fiberlass FAE, but I'm thinking of dual, rather than the 2 in 1 configuration.

And on that note, I've noticed that my motor starts much better when it's out of the water, I'm assuming it's because it doesn't have to clear exhaust pipes full water. I have no flappers on mine, and I'm wondering for those of you that do if it helps on start in the water, of if they leak enough that it doesn't really matter.

92SupraComp
02-15-2014, 04:32 PM
flaps just keep birds out. And yes I know the water gets mixed, its called wet exhaust. It will run much hotter without mufflers. I would run mufflers before the FAE to help keep exhaust temps down

CJD
02-17-2014, 12:40 AM
There is PVC for hot pipes. I don't know if it comes in large sizes, but it is much better at taking hot temps than the std PVC. I have used it on many RC plane exhausts, where the temps are very high with no water cooling. I think what you have will work...but just in case it doesn't

chris young
02-20-2014, 09:26 AM
I was just cruising the marine supplier web sites because I was looking for a new raw water intake hose. I noticed that most of the hose for wet exhaust is only rated for 200F.

biggsie
02-23-2014, 10:57 PM
Moved the hull/trailer out today and got the top/drivetrain in the shop. Kinda feels like starting over again!

First step is to remove the "ski locker" to make room for ballast.

More to come.....http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/y6yvy8yh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/2y2usyny.jpg


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biggsie
03-03-2014, 04:51 PM
Top cap is stripped down and almost ready for paint. Psi washed the motor/tranny while I was at it. 34341343423434334344


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biggsie
03-03-2014, 04:52 PM
13748137491375013751


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TitanTn
03-03-2014, 06:24 PM
Looking good Biggsie. Do you have a splash down date in mind?

biggsie
03-03-2014, 06:31 PM
April-May with any luck. Not sure how long it's going take to get the ice melted off the lake!


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biggsie
03-17-2014, 04:26 PM
Hull/trailer parked in the garage for now. Suburban stuck out in the cold for a while :(
1st coat of yellow is down. Getting excited to start re-assembly and get this thing back together. 1378413785



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biggsie
03-28-2014, 11:45 AM
Making more progress. The paint work is done! Hardware is installed, and teak is being re-finished. I made a custom teak dash to replace the factory vinyl one.

I'm going to work on the motor/tranny next and then finally put the top cap back on and drop the motor back in.

It has been a long winter, it's almost April and all the lakes are frozen solid. I guess that will give me some time for upholstery ;)


1385313854138551385613857


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TitanTn
03-28-2014, 11:35 PM
Great progress. I know you're looking for the finish line.

When you get a chance, upload a photo through something other than Tapatalk. It decompresses the photos so much it's hard to see what this really looks like. I'd like to really get a view for how this is coming along.

biggsie
03-30-2014, 11:06 PM
Sorry about the pics. I'm not sure why but it posts great pics on the WakeWorld forum.

13877138781387913880http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/pajeqyge.jpg


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biggsie
03-30-2014, 11:07 PM
Here is a pic of the "wheel house". I was able to resurrect most of the teak trim but I had to buy a few board feet of teak for the gauge/switch panels. $29.99 per bf!!

Top is ready to go back on!

Joann fabric had a 50% off sale on foam so I took advantage. $260 for the two bundles!

Snowed another 8" yesterday :(


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biggsie
04-01-2014, 07:16 PM
Back together without any drama. Now I'm getting somewhere!1388413885138861388713888


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biggsie
04-05-2014, 01:50 PM
Radio and ballast switches. There is no good place to install a radio on this boat. Had to make a panel. 1390613907


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TitanTn
04-05-2014, 04:55 PM
You're right about not having a good place to mount a radio. I think a lot of the factory ones were in the glovebox. How is the clearance there with your knees?

biggsie
04-05-2014, 05:51 PM
I'm not sure I don't have a seat yet lol!


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biggsie
04-11-2014, 11:18 AM
After about 12 hours the entire boat is re-wired. Switches with relays, battery isolator, and all new harness for the gauges 13931


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biggsie
05-01-2014, 10:21 AM
Haven't posted in a while. Not too much to report. Just getting started on the interior layout. I know I'm on the home stretch but my punch list seems endless!

14050140511405214053


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biggsie
05-08-2014, 05:21 PM
Ballast system almost done. Two reversible impeller pumps, two Y valves, two 400lb sacks in front and two 750's in the rear. 141091411014111


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trayson
05-08-2014, 05:35 PM
Ballast system almost done. Two reversible impeller pumps, two Y valves, two 400lb sacks in front and two 750's in the rear.


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And where specifically are these sacks gonna go?

biggsie
05-09-2014, 09:18 AM
Fronts are going under the windshield and the rears will be in the "sack locker". The system will probably be kinda slow but totally concealed and super easy to use.


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biggsie
05-27-2014, 08:47 PM
Still plugging away. My punch list is getting shorter! I know my pics suck but here are a few to hold you guys over until I can post some from my pc.

14223
14224
14225


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biggsie
05-27-2014, 08:51 PM
The shop is going to feel huge when this project is over. 14226


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Ptownkid
05-27-2014, 09:48 PM
Your shop IS huge...like ridiculously. I can't understand how some of you guys have these monster shops...jealous.

biggsie
05-27-2014, 10:35 PM
That's not my house it's my business if that makes you feel better. I own Naples Powersports.


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TitanTn
05-28-2014, 09:27 AM
That's not my house it's my business if that makes you feel better. I own Naples Powersports.


It only slightly helps.

biggsie
06-01-2014, 09:44 PM
Dropped her in the lake today! Had the motor, floor, and transom exposed to check for leaks and other issues. A few things to address but nothing big.



One thing that was interesting is that I must have installed the steering box wrong at the helm. My steering was backwards! Left was right and right was left, made for an awkward cruise around the lake. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/yqymejeg.jpg


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dirtydawg
06-01-2014, 11:25 PM
boat looks good. Nice to see another old Supra wearing yellow...

chris young
06-02-2014, 08:40 AM
How did the cpvc exhaust work out? Man I have enough time docking with the rudder going the right way. :p

mabbore
06-02-2014, 04:26 PM
Dropped her in the lake today! Had the motor, floor, and transom exposed to check for leaks and other issues. A few things to address but nothing big.



One thing that was interesting is that I must have installed the steering box wrong at the helm. My steering was backwards! Left was right and right was left, made for an awkward cruise around the lake. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/yqymejeg.jpg


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lol, I just did my helm and cable too and did the exact same thing. It just took 5 minutes and a 10mm box wrench to reverse it.

biggsie
06-03-2014, 01:40 AM
How did the cpvc exhaust work out? Man I have enough time docking with the rudder going the right way. :p

Exhaust held up great. I did not glue any of the PVC, it is just held together with 3/16" aluminum rivets. No support bracket either! It seems very strong and held up to several full throttle pulls. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/haremeju.jpg


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biggsie
06-08-2014, 08:38 AM
Home stretch.... Skylon, Bimini, rub rail etc are done. ... Only a few things left on the punch list.

Installing the rub rail was a PITA, not fun, wish I could have done aluminum.


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inair
06-08-2014, 09:02 AM
You've really done a lot in a short time. Great job! Looks like you have a custom swim platform. What's it made of?

biggsie
06-13-2014, 12:04 PM
Swim platform is 3/4 marine ply with a few coats of CPES, primer, paint, and glued on Eva foam.


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biggsie
06-13-2014, 12:09 PM
Goofy wave with one rear bag 1/2 full and no passengers. Hoping to "tune" the wave this weekend.

Carb is way to rich on the idle circuit, the black soot all over my transom is crazy.

Some on the water pics with the Bimini and skylon coming soon!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/14/u8ebena7.jpg


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biggsie
06-13-2014, 12:41 PM
Finally got on the PC! Posting some pics to see quality.

trayson
06-13-2014, 03:13 PM
Exhaust held up great. I did not glue any of the PVC, it is just held together with 3/16" aluminum rivets. No support bracket either! It seems very strong and held up to several full throttle pulls. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/haremeju.jpg


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Tell me more about these rivets. Does it require a special tool to be able to install these? I kind of like the idea of having it all "bolted" together in addition to the glue that most would use.

I found this online... Could I use the same approach? I have an air hammer... http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13114

Or buy some of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-aluminum-blind-rivet-set-67619.html Would I need some kind of tool in addition to these blind rivets? I have just never done rivets, so I'm not sure how they work.


Did you taper the downspout pipe or leave it as a circle? Most installs I see have the downspout that's squished and then cut off at a certain angle to faciliate the "venturi" effect and enable the needed backpressure or something.

biggsie
06-13-2014, 03:42 PM
Here is a pic of the tool I use. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/14/5asu3ymy.jpg
The PVC was fitted over the SS then a hole was drilled through both. Repeat for each fitting. I did NOT glue any pieces because I want the aluminum rivet to break if there is too much stress. I had about 1"+ of exhaust protruding from transom that the PVC slid over. I did not heat and deform the outlet it is still round. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/14/8usuzuqu.jpg


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TitanTn
06-13-2014, 05:45 PM
Thanks for the high res photo. That's looking good!

I may have missed this earlier, but did you change the wake plate? That doesn't look factory.

biggsie
06-13-2014, 06:04 PM
Lol that may be the only thing I didn't touch! No support struts?? Idk, this boat never had a pylon either, your guess is as good as mine.


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trayson
06-13-2014, 06:46 PM
on the FAE, Did you taper the downspout pipe or leave it as a circle? Most installs I see have the downspout that's squished and then cut off at a certain angle to faciliate the "venturi" effect and enable the needed backpressure or something.

biggsie
06-13-2014, 07:23 PM
Still round


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biggsie
06-15-2014, 09:13 PM
about 9 months and 500 hours of labor later she is finally done! Big thanks to all the Supra lovers on this site, you guys are great.

ckracing
06-15-2014, 09:49 PM
Looks great! I definitely feel the 'joy and pain' of the journey as I'm 90% finished (I think I'll always be 90%). Who's the Bimini top made by?

92SupraComp
06-15-2014, 10:27 PM
Nice work! These boats always look sexy on the water. Yours certainly follows!

If you ever watch BBC Top Gear, I think Supra would best be matched to Alfa Romeo.. They made very beautiful cars that were a blast to drive, but they always had problems. You'd want to drive one, but not own it... Supra's are beautiful on the water but they do have flaws: Easy water over the bow, bad electrics (worse than others I have seen...), silly glued up exhaust tips/mufflers (the Super Trapps sound really cool tho...). Yeah, they seem to relate to Alfa Romeo a bit haha

trayson
06-25-2014, 02:45 AM
Exhaust held up great. I did not glue any of the PVC, it is just held together with 3/16" aluminum rivets. No support bracket either! It seems very strong and held up to several full throttle pulls. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/haremeju.jpg


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Wish me luck. Here's mine for $22 in materials. :-D

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Pbhc-gzwqnI/U6omITWt_VI/AAAAAAAAQqk/PllE-RBOkSQ/s800/20140624_182736.jpg

jtryon
06-25-2014, 08:31 AM
Wish me luck. Here's mine for $22 in materials. :-D

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Pbhc-gzwqnI/U6omITWt_VI/AAAAAAAAQqk/PllE-RBOkSQ/s800/20140624_182736.jpg

specs on that? i'd like to do that for how cheap it is. will it work with sunsports with the stock exhaust flaps?

biggsie
06-25-2014, 08:43 AM
Sweet! Glued ? Why no elbow on the outlet?


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trayson
06-26-2014, 12:47 AM
specs on that? i'd like to do that for how cheap it is. will it work with sunsports with the stock exhaust flaps?

Mine's not quite ready.


Sweet! Glued ? Why no elbow on the outlet?


Sent from my brain using Tapatalk.

Yes, I used PVC cement. I also used galvanized pipe strapping. It held up through a wakeboarding session and also some power turns. It held up through a TON of surfing I did today. It was pretty fantastic to be able to CLEARLY hear my music on the tower speakers at WAKEBOARD speed and length! Wow.

On the downside, it threw out a crazy rooster tail that made my wake look like an I/O or Jet boat. Flat is was not. The rooster was gone though before it got to wakeboard length. It also threw out a wierd disturbance in my surf wave. But I was able to get around that by adding a little more weight and changing the shape of the surf wave for the better.

I did heat up my PVC and made it more of an oval than round. Unfortunately the PVC deformed and looks horrible now on the downspout. What was once an oval outlet with about a 35 degree cutoff is a warped mess. I don't know if it was the heat or pressure of the water or both, but it's not good! I think I might have to go with another material.

Why didn't I use an elbow? Well, because the real FAE doesn't and I modeled mine after theirs.
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/672707.jpg

So, after driving at 30mph, doing power turns, a wakeboard set, and many surf sets; we went to drive back to the dock. We went about 5 minutes at about 25mph and heard a change in the tone of or exhaust note. I looked under the boat and the starboard side coupling had come off the exhaust port. Also, 2 of my three pieces of galvanized pipe strapping had broken. The FAE was being held on by the center piece and the Port side hose clamp. I took out my wire cutters, mask, and snorkel and removed my FAE and drove the rest of the way back with a noisy exhaust. Man, I liked that quiet.

So, I'll have to figure out some improvements...

biggsie
06-26-2014, 08:54 AM
Maybe start a new thread for DIY FAE? I'm glad I don't have couplings, weak spot for sure.


Sent from my brain using Tapatalk.

wotan2525
06-26-2014, 11:04 AM
Maybe start a new thread for DIY FAE? I'm glad I don't have couplings, weak spot for sure.



Agreed. The real FAE uses flanges instead of couplings.

trayson
06-26-2014, 01:22 PM
We can add to this thread:
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?15232-Fae/page6&highlight=fresh+exhaust

trayson
06-26-2014, 01:31 PM
Agreed. The real FAE uses flanges instead of couplings.

I pretty much designed it the way that larry told me he'd do a FAE on my boat if I bought it from him. And no, on the real FAE Supra instructions there's no flanges unless you pay more to replace your exhaust outlets with a flange style so you can go flange to flange...

Look at the "Moomba and Supra" instructions on this pdf on page 3:
http://www.freshairexhaust.com/wp-content/uploads/Instructions/FAE_Installation_Instructions.pdf?6513c6

Anyway, I am sure I can make some improvements... I'm pretty surprised that it broke the metal pipe strapping though. I think if it broke the pipe strapping, it cold have very sell torn plastic to pvc that was rivetted together. Then I'd have an even bigger mess to clean up.

wotan2525
06-26-2014, 02:20 PM
My mistake. When I purchased my FAE, I replaced the supertrapps with flanges. I did use the supplied rubber couplers, though. Maybe adding some additional supports to yours would help?

You can see that mine has two horizontal bars and then vertical supports attached to them on each side. Hasn't moved since it was installed in 2010

http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/CIMG0252.jpg