I Just May Have it This Time?

[michael hunter]

Earlier this year I bought a 84 comp for 2500 dollars . I expected a lot of issues being so cheap and there have been many to sort out. The one that has given me the most trouble is the carb. I rebuilt it as I have done hundreds of others but just could not get it just right 90% at best. The main issues have been Idle and hot starting. I have tracked it down to float level . This is the first boat I have ever owned with the engine slanting back . This causes the carb to not sit level on the intake. The float specs no longer apply because of the angle. The front float level has to be lowered or it will run rich or flood. I'm thinking the rear should be raised? Anyhow
Its trail and error making small adjustments but I never could get it dead on. I was reading a post on another forum about a wedge spacer to straighten out the carb. I found a 12 degree spacer on eBay for 25 dollars and got it. I set the floats and other settings to spec and installed it . Its definitely better but it needs a full day on the lake for details on performance. Ill post more after a lake test.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Picture038_zps3823d8c3.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/suprahunter/media/Picture038_zps3823d8c3.jpg.html)

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Picture040_zpsc2bb7b73.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/suprahunter/media/Picture040_zpsc2bb7b73.jpg.html)

[Cliff]

Nice find! I wonder what other application would need a wedge like that? Would the original service manual tell you what to set the floats too?

[jasun]

Good luck and let me know how it works out. I had a Holley on my salt and had the same problem over and over. It would backfire through the carb. I would adjust the floats and gas would pour down the secondaries or no gas at all... I finally got fed up and changed it out for an Edelbrock... I AM NOT BASHING HOLLEY.... just saying...

but i never had luck with it. Let us know if this works or not. My thoughts were that the boat moves so much anyway that it never sits level and a spacer would not do anything for it.

[michael hunter]

Nice find! I wonder what other application would need a wedge like that? Would the original service manual tell you what to set the floats too?

They are used in racing Summit and Jegs carries them. The original manuals don't take the angle into account if you set the floats to spec it will be wrong.

[michael hunter]

Good luck and let me know how it works out. I had a Holley on my salt and had the same problem over and over. It would backfire through the carb. I would adjust the floats and gas would pour down the secondaries or no gas at all... I finally got fed up and changed it out for an Edelbrock... I AM NOT BASHING HOLLEY.... just saying...

but i never had luck with it. Let us know if this works or not. My thoughts were that the boat moves so much anyway that it never sits level and a spacer would not do anything for it.

Go ahead and bash I have never been a fan of Holley.

[jasun]

Go ahead and bash I have never been a fan of Holley.


Go ahead and bash I have never been a fan of Holley.

I think it was CADUNKLE that gets upset about Holley bashers... lol I was just CMA... :D

[jasun]

Go ahead and bash I have never been a fan of Holley.

But since you mention that, I have been very happy with the 1410 I put on. I probably could have went with the 1409 though.

385 shipped at amazon....
http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-1409-Performer-Secondary-Carburetor/dp/B00062YA80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383161224&sr=8-1&keywords=edelbrock+1409

just incase the wedge doesnt work...

[chris young]

Funny I was thinking of doing exactly the same thing. It wouldn't be an issue if these carbs had externally adjustable floats, but it does get a bit tedious pulling the bowl, adjusting the float and re installing. I don't think it was an issue in my case but it may be in yours, the nitrofil floats will slowly absorb fuel and sink so you have to set the float height to accomodate. New floats aren't a lot of money and it's good insurance.

I just pulled the carb for the winter on mine and plan on rebuilding over the winter. It's already got a new float in the front and I'll replace the one in the rear. I've been thinking about the wedge spacer myself. My only concern is that these boats seem to be fine out of the factory, so do they really need the wedge to run right?

Let us know how it comes out.

[michael hunter]

Took it out yesterday and there was a tremendous improvement not perfect yet but better than its ever been . There is one thing that I forgot to say . After the wedge was installed I had a clearance issue with the engine cover . I just made a new lower 1 1/4 '' taller. The old one wasn't all that great anyway so it wasn't any big problem.

[Hagman]

Some times a faulty PCV valve will causes the same problems. There only a couple bucks and easy to replace .

[rideevol]

Four idle circuits all need to be just right. The secondaries need to be set first. The two idle ports within the secondaries need to be uncovered by adjusting their bottom of the carb adjustment screw, just 1/4 to 1/2 turn, which barely opens the secondary throttle plates. As stated earlier, the floats, especially the secondary floats also need to be set just right as they of course determine the fuel depth which has a direct effect on the secondary delivered (richness) idle fuel supply. Dripping secondary venturies within the secondary bores during idle indicate too high a float setting, which affects both idle and higher throttle performance. After sorting out the secondaries these carbs usually run much better.

[csuggs]

Michael- glad you finally got your Comp bud!

I had some similar issues with mine last year (2012 season) after having the carb rebuilt by an old school gear head like yourself. He wanted me to install an angled spacer, but I refused to believe that the 15* angle of the motor was an issue since it (and so many others like it) ran great for the last 25 years. What is different is today's gas. The ethanol causes the fuel to vaporize at a lower temp. Here's what I did to resolve the problem:
First I removed the cast iron carb spacer and replaced it with a phenolic spacer of the same thickness (flat). I had to drill and tap the spacer for the pcv hose fitting, and cut a channel through the spacer to the primary side of the carb. The purpose of this was to try and isolated some of the heat from the carburetor.
Second I installed an insulation wrap over the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb.
Ever since this modification, I've had no trouble starting the motor when hot. No fuss, no muss.

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/th_938cbe29.jpg (http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/?action=view&current=938cbe29.jpg)

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/th_fed0e910.jpg (http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/?action=view&current=fed0e910.jpg)

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/th_21a6f304.jpg (http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/?action=view&current=21a6f304.jpg)


Sent from my iPad

[michael hunter]

Thanks guys the boat actuality runs very good it keeps getting better . I think I'm being a little anal looking for perfection. Ill look into your suggestions.

[mapleleaf]

The bar has been set pretty high Mr. Hunter...

[Supra_Comp]

Michael- glad you finally got your Comp bud!

I had some similar issues with mine last year (2012 season) after having the carb rebuilt by an old school gear head like yourself. He wanted me to install an angled spacer, but I refused to believe that the 15* angle of the motor was an issue since it (and so many others like it) ran great for the last 25 years. What is different is today's gas. The ethanol causes the fuel to vaporize at a lower temp. Here's what I did to resolve the problem:
First I removed the cast iron carb spacer and replaced it with a phenolic spacer of the same thickness (flat). I had to drill and tap the spacer for the pcv hose fitting, and cut a channel through the spacer to the primary side of the carb. The purpose of this was to try and isolated some of the heat from the carburetor.
Second I installed an insulation wrap over the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb.
Ever since this modification, I've had no trouble starting the motor when hot. No fuss, no muss.

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/th_fed0e910.jpg (http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/?action=view¤t=fed0e910.jpg)

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/th_21a6f304.jpg (http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/csuggs/?action=view¤t=21a6f304.jpg)


Sent from my iPad

I like what you did with the insulation liner. I haven't had my fresh motor on the lake yet but my old motor (very tired) would get the same problem after running for some time and would get vapour lock causing the hard starts, even to the point when it would bog down after doing lots of stops/starts with skiing. I think I will try the insulation as a second line of defence. Where did you get the phenolic spacer from ?

I like your point about today's fuel vs old fuel. From what I have heard from friends in the industry, the pumps up here say 15% ethonal contect but could actually contain upwards of 20-25%.