Inheriting 1989 Supra Comp TS6M

[codemonkey82]

Hello everyone, I am new to the Supra forums and have a big project ahead of me...

I will soon have in my hands a not so shinny 1989 Supra Comp TS6M with a 351 Form PCM motor (only 200 hours on the motor) and a nice transmission geared @ 123:1. The trailer is in great shape and the shell of the boat is in great shape. The boat has always been garaged, one owner (my uncle), never sat in water for extended periods of time, and has always been run in fresh water. This is all the great news...

The clincher...I am receiving this boat...well, because I love it for starters (I grew up leaning to ski on this boat every summer) and two it's just a damn good looking boat still to this day and it has become too large a project for my uncle who now lives in Co. He has agreed to give it to me with my word that I will show it the love it needs and get some good use of it. This being said I am attaching some pictures of the current state of the boat.

My Uncle started out simply needing to replace the floors (so he thought) and quickly realized the stringers were rotted through. I have done quite a bit of digging around on these forums and have read through several of the rebuild threads for similar models. I will get more pictures in May when I pick up the boat. From what I understand the cap has been set back in place for transportation and the motor is also in place for transportation. The pictures currently attached were the last update pictures he took while actively working on the project so I am not sure where exactly the project is currently (and he honestly doesn't remember either). Looking at the pictures it seems that the stringers were only rotted about 3/4 of the way up toward the bow and I am assuming his intent was to splice the new stringers in. All of the wood has been purchased for the project (I will know more one I receive the boat and all the materials). All this being said I have wood working and electronics experience however I have never done any glass (fiber glass) work.

I guess my first question would be should I take on glassing the stringers in myself or should I look at having someone else do this for me? I am leary of haveing anyone else do this work as I do not trust the quality of others unless they have been highly recommended by someone.

I will know a lot more once I have the boat in hand at the beginning of may (10th to be exact). I am extremely excited and ready for this project. I am very anxious to be able to start teaching my kids how to ski using the same boat I learned on (hopefully sometime next summer).

Also, the trailer is the original single axle trailer (which is in good shape) however my uncle recommends that if I do replace it I replace it with a dual axle trailer with surge (or electric) brakes. Do anyone know where I might look for a replacement trailer like this?

[michael hunter]

I am currently doing an 84 comp . Since you have the cap off I would recommend replacing the complete stringer system . There are many threads on the forum about doing the stringers. Make sure you take lots of pics and document how the work was done it will help at resale time. A good place for the epoxies and fiberglass is US Composites.

[michael hunter]

If you decide to get rid of the single axle trailer I may be interested?

[92SupraComp]

Nice boat. DO NOT GET A TANDEM! What is he thinking? These trailers come with surge hydraulic brakes. And, these comps are extremely light! Granted mine is full composite vs you wood stringer boat, but yours doesn't weight much more! Our tow vehicle is a 2007 Suburban 1500 w/5.3L. Our brakes do not work on the trailer and really, you barely notice the boat is there. I would be amazed if the boat weighed more than 2,500 lbs... We do have a tandem axle trailer for our 1989 CC Martinique. That is a 3,500 lb boat with a a roughly 1,500 lb trailer. You really notice that it is behind you. The brakes also do not work on that either but you just take it easy, towing is no problem. One thing for sure is:

1.) Tandem axle trailer SUCK for backing up. The tires start skidding and they don't like to turn. Single axle trailers back up really easy.
2.) Thats 4 tires vs 2 tires that you have to replace and keep in check. 4 bearing vs 2 bearings you have to keep in check.
3.) On the highway 70 with our Supra is just fine, but not over. With our tandem for the CC, 75 mph all day straight and true.

Really I wish our 1989 CC came with a single axle like 1988 and older ones did as they are much easier to deal with than the tandems... (Have experience with 4 other CC Martinique's and all but ours have single axle. Big difference btwn single and dual...)

Sorry about that, but seriously. Keep the single, especially for a wee little ski boat!

And also, good luck with the stringers. But seriously, if its all apart right now, why not tear it all out and do it fresh? I mean no weak spliced in joints to worry about plus you can super seal everything to ensure it will go decades being just fine. (Water still seeps through fiberglass though!)

[Zim]

I'll go ahead and respectfully disagree with 92SupraComp...

Size really has no bearing on what size trailer to get. A single is fine, but a tandem is better. Regardless of what trailer you have, if it has brakes installed on it, they should be in WORKING order. Not only for you and your families safety, but also because the liability is on YOU if you get in a wreck and during the investigation it's discovered that your trailer brakes aren't in working condition.

Despite being "harder to back up", which they're really not bad while hooked to a vehicle, you also have the piece of mind knowing that as you drive down the highway and one tire blows (which you'll likely experience if you own this boat any length of time) you still have another one there to limp it home if you're unlucky enough to not have a spare. They also track much better having a single axle.

Really, there's zero drawbacks to a tandem trailer besides trying to maneuver it around without the help of a vehicle.

Again, the single is just fine, but a tandem upgrade is absolutely an upgrade that would be worthwhile.

[Ptownkid]

I agree about the brakes, but a tandem is overkill for a comp...(i do like your point about the tire though, but it's rare)

[Zim]

I agree about the brakes, but a tandem is overkill for a comp...(i do like your point about the tire though, but it's rare)


Definitely not rare, especially on an older trailer where the tires may be pretty old. If a tire is 5 years old, regardless of its condition it should be replaced. These bias ply tires aren't like a radial. They go through heat cycles and lose their integrity, especially if they're under inflated (which I'll bet 95% of boat owners tires are). Pair those factors with a driver that thinks barreling down a highway at 75-80mph with a boat in tow is okay, and blowouts are actually pretty common. A tire with a load range of C, which most ST trailer tires are, aren't even designed for speeds in excess of 65mph. Trailer tires should be filled to their max PSI to run at 65 mph for a load range C tire. D, and E rated tires are a different story, but should still be inflated to max psi.

[Jetlink]

Single axle trailer under my Comp, no brakes at all installed on the trailer as it came that way. It tracks fine in all respects, never "steps out" from behind any of the vehicles that I have ever towed it with. Anything bigger than a Comp/Conbrio and yeah, you might need the dual axle trailer. Also, in regards to the blow out issue, I have had one blow out with my trailer and it was on the highway due to dry rot tires as I was driving it home from Indiana. I have since replaced the tires with really good trailer tires that have given me zero issues in over 2,500 miles of towing.

[codemonkey82]

Thank you for all the responses. I see valid points from both sides. I will be pulling this with a GMC Yukon (5.3 liter and 4x4) so I do not expect a problem when it comes to towing. I will wait until the middle of march at which time I will post a hefty number of photo's both with the current trailer and the exact condition of the boat with the cap off (uncle honestly isn't sure where he left things when he moved 4 yrs ago or so). I have been watching videos on glass work and looking through the forums here and it really does not seem like a task I need to farm out to someone else. I should be able to do it myself and if I mess up it's as simple as grinding and re-applying (I say simple even though I know it is a time consuming and daunting task). I believe I am going to go ahead and replace the full stringers based on responses here and I am looking at possibly going composite. Before finalizing this decision I have a couple of questions:

1. The stringers look like 1/2" or 3/4" plywood that has been glued together (this does not include engine frame). If this is correct what type of glue (bonding agent) should I use to bond the plywood together? If I use composite does anyone know the best place to get 1/2" or 3/4" materials? I have only see 1x's and 2x's etc.

2. Where is the best resource to start pricing out the rest of the materials ie (PB Butter, Fiber Glass Mats, etc). I have see quite a few ideas and debates on these subjects in past forums and was wondering if there is a 'repository' of this information that would be better to read through than searching here and there. Possibly a best practices guide of some sort?

3. If I remember correctly the deck on the back is teak and I plan on restoring the wood and then using the idea of the metal wight distribution plates bolted on to the transom. My biggest question around this is what's the best way to seal the through bolts? I do not have any experience working on boats other than what I have read and I want to make sure I do this correctly and do not have to tear back into the boat once I have completed restoring it.

4. What is the best type of foam? I watched a video recently on the two part foam which the person applying it stated that the foam was a 'closed cell' foam so water could not be absorbed by it? Does this make sense? Has anyone heard this or know where I would look for pricing for such materials?

5. The motor only has 200 hours and has been run in fresh water only. While I have it out of the boat should I look at replacing anything while it is on the engine stand? I have quite a bit of engine repair experience however I am a firm believe that if it ain't broke don't fix it with engines however I know that water pumps, thermostats, things like this wear out over time and you can often benefit from changing them proactively while it's easy to get to.

6. If I use composite materials for the stringers do I need to seal the 'wood' still?

7. Should I put small 'vent' holes in the joint boards that run perpendicular between the stringers for draining/de-humidifying?

8. What is the best way to bolt the engine back into the frame? The problem with the engine mount frame and the stringers to begin with is that the engine was bolted straight into the wooden frame. How do I prevent this from happening in the future? If I used composite wood for the frame will the bolts hold just as firm or should I look at mounting a different way?

9. What is the best material for the floor? I have read quite a few posts around glassing the floor joints and then epoxying the rest of the exposed wood. Is this the best route? Is there a better material to use for this? I know that I am not suppose to but the floor up against the hull so what is the best way to do this? I am assuming some PB Butter like I will be doing with the stringers and then glassing? Does any have any good pictures (links to them are fine) that show this process of finishing off and sealing the floors all the way up to the hull?

Please pardon and correct me if I do not use the correct terminology for things I am eager to learn and accept 'constructive' criticism well :-)

Thank you,

-Loren

[Jetlink]

5. Yeah, I would take this opportunity to freshen up the motor and trans. No time like the present as the only way to do so is to pull the motor and why pull it twice?

[ssa]

www.uscomposites.com for materials.

[92SupraComp]

Really? Refresh a motor with ONLY 200 hours? That thing is barely broken in yet! Heck our comp has easily 1800+ hours. And the motor still runs just fine. The Martinique had 650 hours, ran a little rough, new plugs, correct timing, replace exhaust hose, and carb rebuild its back to running perfectly smooth. Now has 900 hours just fine. I would NOT touch a thing on that motor. Except oil change BEFORE you run it!

I mean think about it. The 351W is a basic highly reliable well built low HP high torque small block V8 meant to last. Thats why they used it for so long. Our 2007 Suburban has 135,000 miles and 3,600 + hours. Only thing wrong is stupid AFM lifters starting to go. Other than that it runs great.

Change the oil, spray oil in every cylinder, let it soak, and dump 30:1 2-stroke down each barrel of the carb and if you can fill the carb bowls with the 2 stroke as well. This really helps the valve seats and stems seal up nicely. Oh, and disconnect the spark and crank it for at least 5 seconds to get the oil system primed. It takes 5 extra seconds to ensure nothing will run dry, remember, its a flat tappet motor...

[Jetlink]

Two things... First, the engine has been laid up for at least four years and secondly, who knows how accurate the hour meter is? According to my hour meter, I have less than 105 hours on an original engine from 1986...but that is because the meter in there now I installed to replace the original one that failed years ago on a previous owner. I hear what you are saying that at 200 hours it is practically brand new, or that is the thought.

To each their own I guess... He said that he was a confident motor guy and while it is out what more could it hurt? Personally, I would take the time to make sure that everything is up to my satisfaction, especially on anything that is considered a "project." Heck, I drove my boat home 8 hours from purchasing it and then tore the entire electrical system apart and spent an entire day getting the engine running right before it hit the water and that was on something that had not sat for four years or fell into the "project" category.

[92SupraComp]

Ok. Fine. Just last summer I got my dads 64 T-Bird thats sitting in our barn running for the first time in 15 years. Has been stored for 25 years, and the motor, a 390 FE, was re-built not long before it was put away. Pulled all the plugs, oiled each cylinder, oil and filter change, file the points, fill the carb with 2 stroke (32:1), dump some down barrel and she fired right up. And after just a few minutes it really smoothed out. It now starts up every time with one pump of the puddle on 25 year old gas. Ran it for an hour each weekend for several weekends on 2 stroke before hooking the fuel line back up. Treated that 390 real nice.

And the electrical side of things. I very much agree! I would like to meet the person who laid out the wiring diagram and ask "What the hell were you doing?" I over hauled our 1992 Comp and everything is much better. The only problem with CC wiring is pathetic grounds. Added some ground points to the dash in our CC and all is well for that boat.

[crystal waters]

-your boat weighs 2750 lbs and your trailer 600 lbs.
have pulled both a single and a double axle on comps and combrios over many miles and many years and would take a double any day of the week! Safety first and smoother ride second for both boat and the tow rig!

[cadunkle]

Regarding the engine I'd at minimum pull the pan and check main and rod bearings. If no visible wear and you don't want to spend much time or money on the engine put some oil in it, crank over with no plug till you have oil pressure, and do a compression check. If it checks out just clean it up, paint it, and drop it in. If there are any issues or you want more performance, now is the time, do the needful.

Regarding engine mount method... If I ever do stringers on one of these I'd like do space the stringers slightly farther out and do either a cradle or offshore style mounts with angle through bolted in the stringers as is common on jets and vdrives (go fast boats). Much more robust and no worries about stripping wood stringers with lags or such. More time and effort vs making factory style wood pads and lagging it close enough for the mounts to adjust, but worthwhile if the boat is a keeper.

[codemonkey82]

Sorry it has taken so long to update this thread. I now have the comp and it is sitting in a covered storage unit waiting for some real attention. I am in the process of taking an inventory of parts that need to be ordered along with a to-do list and ultimately waiting for the weather to cool in here in Texas before I dig in...

Here are pictures I took of the boat and the shape it is currently in.1514315144151451514615147

[codemonkey82]

1514815149151501515115152

[lively]

Where do you live in tx ?


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[codemonkey82]

Houston area lively...

[lively]

Well if you don't feel like tackling it I'm in Fort Worth , labor to do the stringers and deck $2k and you provide materials . I have a local guy that has poly by 5 gal for 70 $ . Let me know


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[codemonkey82]

Okay guys, it's time to start tackling this project. I'm going to give it a go! I have the next two weeks to dedicate entirely to this project. I'll post more pictures as I go and I'm sure I will have plenty of questions!
1610416105161061610716108

[codemonkey82]

What thickness cloth should I use when glassing in the stringers? I remember seeing it on a thread and I cannot find it now. I was thinking 17 oz. bi-axial cloth?

[codemonkey82]

Found this gem in the boat today while removing foam. Apparently Supra decided they didn't need one of their pneumatic grinders?16112161131611416115

[jasun]

Found this gem in the boat today while removing foam. Apparently Supra decided they didn't need one of their pneumatic grinders?16112161131611416115

Its just added support.

[MarbleFalls]

Found this gem in the boat today while removing foam. Apparently Supra decided they didn't need one of their pneumatic grinders?16112161131611416115

Also shows the quality of care the labor force presented when building these boats! Pathetic

[gnarlydude]

You left the motor in, i take it?


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[codemonkey82]

Gnarlydude - I ended up removing everything and doing a complete rebuild. I'm in the middle of glassing in the new stringers now. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/500912ce37de423704de987644fd3b79.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/21fa067c6595f820529db4394d530a2f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/06ec5549791df973f1ba928e1a96d4e3.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160703/8459a566ba042654dc01eda5effd5671.jpg


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[cadunkle]

Wow so that had a rotted section of stringer the engine bolted to cut out and a new board scabbed in with no bedding or glass? Looks like you're doing it right though. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

[bens250ex]

You should email and ask supra if they want it back lol

[gnarlydude]

That looks awesome!
So I'm riding my Sunsport out this Summer, but looking to do a cap off next year.
How do you get the exact placement of the engine when you remove EVERYTHing?


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