Trailer Question

[td in nc]

Would a trailer for 22 Sunsport work for 21 Launch?

Thanks

[Zim]

Maybe. The bunks will need to be set up for the Launch, and the bow stop will probably need to be moved a little to fit correctly. You'll want the transom to line up directly with the end of the bunks. Is this a tandem axle trailer or single? Got a pic? What year are the two boats? Are they both DD, or V-drive, or a mix of the two? All of this will come into play. I mean, you CAN put it on there, it's just a matter of how well it'll work for you.

[td in nc]

My boat is a 2000 Launch DD (21'), and the trailer I am interested in is from a 2003 Sunsport V drive (22'). I would definitely have to have the bow stop moved, but I would like to avoid moving the bunks.

[wotan2525]

I'm of the opinion that those boats have nearly identical hulls below the rub rail. Nobody is going to tell you with 100% certainty if it will fit but I believe you have a very high likliehood of being OK. If the bunks stick out an extra 6-8" you'll be fine and it's easy enough to have the bow rail moved. There's plenty of people on here that put their boats on different MFG trailers and most have not had to adjust the bunks. V-Drive vs. DD doesn't really matter since the rudder and prop-shaft is in the same place, imho.

[ssa]

For what it's worth if you do have to move the bunks I moved mine last week and it ran me 171.00 to buy new brackets and do it myself. Main thing to check would be measure between the bunks on the new trailer and make sure it doesn't put any bunks under the ribs on the hull. Like the previous posts stated length isnt really a problem since the winch post/bow stop is easily moved but make sure that the axles aren't set up to far to the rear since it was for a v-drive. Your dd having the motor in the center may increase the tongue weight quite a bit if the axles are sitting too far back. So depending on what your pulling it with that may be important.

[td in nc]

For what it's worth if you do have to move the bunks I moved mine last week and it ran me 171.00 to buy new brackets and do it myself. Main thing to check would be measure between the bunks on the new trailer and make sure it doesn't put any bunks under the ribs on the hull. Like the previous posts stated length isnt really a problem since the winch post/bow stop is easily moved but make sure that the axles aren't set up to far to the rear since it was for a v-drive. Your dd having the motor in the center may increase the tongue weight quite a bit if the axles are sitting too far back. So depending on what your pulling it with that may be important.

That is great info. So you have any pics of how you adjusted your bunks. I was thinking I would have to have the connections rewelded. I would appreciate seeing how you did it.

Tom

[ssa]

When I bought my boat it was on the current trailer which was built for a 22 or 23' Malibu. The bunks were all to far inboard and they were sitting under the ribs. It was a nightmare to load because the ribs couldn't center the boat since they wanted to ride on top of the bunks. So I finally got it centered on the trailer at the ramp and then was able to measure off the ribs to place the brackets. I held them all down off the hull the same amount as the thickness of the bunks. I used bolt on brackets with 1/2" U bolts around the crossmembers. The only place that created a problem was on the rear crossmember the taillights were in the way of the U bolts. So I popped the taillights out drilled the crossmember where the center slot of the brackets went tapped the holes for a 1/2" bolt and ran 1" long bolts out to secure the brackets on. After I had everything in place I started on one side and unbolted both bunks from the original brackets. I put a 4' long 6x6 on my floor jack between the axles under the inboard bunk and lifted it till I could slide the outboard bunk over onto its new brackets. Then set it down moved the jack to the outboard bunk and lifted to move the inboard bunk over. Lagged those in place and repeated on the other side. Then I cut the original brackets off.14132141351413314134

[td in nc]

Thanks for all the info an pics - this is very helpful! I like the $171 price verses the $800 the welder quoted me.

[ssa]

Yeah I was looking around and figured that's the price range welded would be. The welded look better I guess but the wallet said bolted was the way to go. Also that price is for 12 brackets, 3 on each bunk. Which is how many welded ones it had. I would say our hulls are the same from my 95 Sunsport to your 2000 Launch so if I can help you with any more info let me know.

[ssa]

Here's a pic of how I bolted the rear bracket if you had the same problem.14137