All kinds of issues this weekend!

[twisterad3]

I have a 90 Sunsport with the 351 PMC.
Took the boat out 5/18. Tested it. 3 people. Ran great
Took the boat out 5/26.. Different story.

***First*** the boat would do nothing with the key in the ignition. Thought the batteries were completely dead, but even a jumping the boat didn't help. Did the old screw driver to the starter relay, BAM! Problem solved. Awesome!

***Second*** Loaded up some friends, headed towards the spot on the lake I like to start taking newbies.. After about 2 minutes @ 26mph, boat sputters... then dies. RPM's dropped quick, boat came to a slow down, then sputtered at idle. Tried giving a little gas when it was sputtering at idle, didn't do anything. Wait about 15 seconds, boat starts up, runs at speed for about 15 seconds, then does the same thing. Cycle. Rinse. Repeat... :-?

We were able to get it to run "fine" later, we took apart the cap and rotor. Tightened the non-working temperature sender unit (or gauge.. one of them isn't working). Not sure which thing specifically helped, but any input would be helpful.

[Blackntan90]

When was the last time you set /changed the points and condensor? Or the fuel filters(there are two of them)? Start with simple cheap stuff and don't overthink it! These things are really quite simple in nature, also check the ballast resistor's resistance. Hope this helps!

[twisterad3]

Great starting points. Didn't know anything about ballast resistors or points and condensers till I googled it 5 minutes ago! Still unclear what the resistance should read. But I can easily get started on the basics at least.

[chautauquasun]

Again, staying with simple things...check your battery cables. Seems like to stupid thing to say...but I was having dead short (turn the key and nothing would happen...gauges wouldn't register) issues last year and the starting solenoid constantly burning out. I had old battery cables that I think may have been getting wet and shorting out. Replaced the cables this year. No issues with the dead short and have not had to replace the solenoid. I was replacing the solenoid 1-2x per year. Again...the simple things.

[twisterad3]

I replaced the main battery cables last year when we purchased it. Also the alternator, since we were only getting like 10volts running. I had the batteries out of the boat this winter and on a tender inside, so the batteries should be good.
How frequently do you guys think I should be replacing the plug wires? If I can get to the plugs, I'll probably replace those tonight too, but not sure about the wires. They look good, but who knows...

[Blackntan90]

Plug wire are not generally needed unless you are getting misfires, or arcing between them. are they brittle when you wrap them around your finger? Then I would replace. Did mine 2 years ago, mostly for peace of mind and looks. I put on the yellow 8mm PCM wires from skidim.

[twisterad3]

***Update***
Boat seems to be running fine.
I changed the plugs (they were pretty old), changed the oil, changed the filter, adjusted the contact points on the distributer, and took it out for a successful test run.
Have since brought it out every weekend, loaded it up (7 people and 700lbs of ballast) and it's still running pretty damn well.
I think it's time for some fresh top end gaskets and some additional TLC to keep the motor running strong.

[Blackntan90]

Glad you got it going well!

[michael hunter]

You should be changing the points and condencer every season . They will corrode from sitting over the winter . Its a good habit to change in the spring. Keep a old set in the boat as insurance on the water. The nice thing about points is you can change them on the fly with only a pocket knife.

Here are the NAPA part numbers for your boat
Points CS720P
Condenser AL869
Rotor AL125
Dist Cap AL171
SP Wires 188802
Ign Coil
Motorcraft E8TF-12029BA BKC External Resistor

[92SupraComp]

You should be changing the points and condencer every season . They will corrode from sitting over the winter . Its a good habit to change in the spring. Keep a old set in the boat as insurance on the water. The nice thing about points is you can change them on the fly with only a pocket knife.

Here are the NAPA part numbers for your boat
Points CS720P
Condenser AL869
Rotor AL125
Dist Cap AL171
SP Wires 188802
Ign Coil
Motorcraft E8TF-12029BA BKC External Resistor

What? We are on our 5th summer with our CC. Still have no idea how old the points are but they work great! Timing is still dead on and it runs smooth. I think you are wasting money doing it every year. Every other I could understand, but not every... Yes it does have points and condenser, and original cap and rotor, and original wires...

[Moor]

What? We are on our 5th summer with our CC. Still have no idea how old the points are but they work great! Timing is still dead on and it runs smooth. I think you are wasting money doing it every year. Every other I could understand, but not every... Yes it does have points and condenser, and original cap and rotor, and original wires...

At the very least i check and reset the gap on the points every year (or atleast i used to). I agree that replacing every year may be unnecessary, but it is cheap insurance. or just switch over to electronic ignition and forget about points and condensors....