04 SSV Starter Replacement(?)

[kenn6752]

Hi Guys,

I've been an owner of my 04 SSV for 2 seasons now. Lurked around here for awhile enjoying reading up on others projects, etc. I am now stuck with my own service issue and have searched the internet for a coupe days without being able to find anything very helpful. I know this is my 1st post but hopefully I can be welcomed in and anyone with experience can shed some light.

<Issue>
Engine will not turn over. Makes the sound of dead battery (basically just a dead knock when keys turned). Checked and re-charged all batteries so they are not dead. All other electronic systems on boat seem to be working.

<Background>
Since last season the boat has often been odd/hard to start. When turning the key, it would often make the sound of a dead battery and then if I held it for a couple seconds it would start to turn over and then fire up. Other times it would sound like a dead battery, I'd turn key back off and then when turned back on it would fire up. I feel like this was probably the starter on its last legs(?)

Now it just won't turn over no matter what. Would you agree the starter is a good place to check first? If so, this leads to the main point of this post- where exactly is the starter on my boat (04 SSV 325efi)? Anyone know the replacement part number? Is there a service manual I can get for this thing to help with these issues and repair jobs? I am fairly handy and would like to at least be able to try the starter job myself before footing the bill to a shop.

Thanks and I hope my long 1st post isn't met with distaste

[CJD]

I think you must have the V-drive, so the starter is on the port side of the engine, near the bottom and forward. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery, then you can undo the large cable on the starter and one (or 2) small wires. There will likely be a medium size alternator wire paired with the large cable. The starter is held in with 2 or 3 long bolts.

That's how easy it is.

With your boat year and engine option you can pick up a new one from most parts houses. I don't know the pn.

As for your diagnosis...there are 3 reasons for your symptoms. Most common is a bad battery. Second is corroded connections on the large cable between the battery and starter. Finally is the starter itself. I usually diagnose in that order.

[kenn6752]

I think you must have the V-drive, so the starter is on the port side of the engine, near the bottom and forward. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery, then you can undo the large cable on the starter and one (or 2) small wires. There will likely be a medium size alternator wire paired with the large cable. The starter is held in with 2 or 3 long bolts.

That's how easy it is.

With your boat year and engine option you can pick up a new one from most parts houses. I don't know the pn.

As for your diagnosis...there are 3 reasons for your symptoms. Most common is a bad battery. Second is corroded connections on the large cable between the battery and starter. Finally is the starter itself. I usually diagnose in that order.

Awesome man and thanks! Really appreciate the quick help. I will look at her tonight.

[2001Sunsport]

Does it clunk or just do nothing when you turn the key? If accessible, try smacking it with a rubber hammer. I had a starting problem where it would clunk when I turned the key and that was all. I purchased this part http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV6NIC/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it solved my problems. This is a 2001 Sunsport DD 320hp EFI

[wotan2525]

Awesome man and thanks! Really appreciate the quick help. I will look at her tonight.

Before you pull the starter, you'll want to "jump" it and see if it could possibly be the relay (I don't know if yours has a relay built into it or not.)

Take a screw driver (with a plastic handle) and use it to connect the terminal with the small wire on it to the terminal with the big battery cable on it. If the starter is OK, it will cause it to spin. It will freak you out. It's not dangerous, but I might not be standing in water while I did it. Beware of how the belts might spin if it does turn the engine over and don't get your arms/clothes wrapped up in them.

[garyholl]

Kenn,
I agree with wotan about trying to jump it first, but, the it slowed down then died is almost certainly the starter. 95% chance.
You can always get a starter at Cheif or Auto Zone that is not marine rated (40% of the price) which is what I would do. I have a motor repair place in my home town that can rewind the motor and change the brushes called "Auto Start" which is a possibility. Or you can call your dealer and ask him the part number. Good luck!

[kenn6752]

Again, thanks all for the support.

To catch up on the last few posts-

1. Maybe it's not so much a clunk as it's a matter of hearing like a quick click, I guess dead battery sound is the best I can come up with in description.
2. I was originally going to give it a whack like a car, but the 1st problem was that I am not familiar with these engines and wasn't exactly sure where the starter was.
3. Before I add to unnecessary removal and install- I will give it a jumper and ensure it is not the fault relay or other upstream wiring
4. For the purpose of replacement (and getting a part quick) I would be ok with a standard automotive starter, assuming there is no major fallout or risk by doing so?

[wotan2525]

4. For the purpose of replacement (and getting a part quick) I would be ok with a standard automotive starter, assuming there is no major fallout or risk by doing so?

NO. I throw caution to the wind all of the time, but the starter is one item that absolutely, positively, HAS to be marine. NAPA/O'reilly will both be able to get marine starters fairly quickly (but you'll pay out the nose for them.) DBElectrical.com ships from multiple warehouses around the country and usually delivers in 1-2 days. I'd check with them. Not the best quality starters but they are cheap and will get you going quickly. Heck, buy 2 and have a spare and you'll still probably be at 50% of the cost of a NAPA/Oreilly (which are still made in china.)

[CornRickey]

I recommend taking it to a reputable rebuilt and have him rebuild it. My local guy uses parts not used by the normal manufacture. It cost about the same as a new "reman" but lasts allot longer. Chalking the starters out on these is a pain. I had a new starter put in when I bought my boat and it only lasted two years.

[kenn6752]

Well been a few days behind on tearing into things. I located the starter last night and while right by it I had my dad turn the key on. It's definitely a "click" that you hear. I found a starter and alternator rebuilder not to far away so I am planning to have him go through and reman things. Hoping the current no go issue is just the starter, but I am thinking that either way it wouldn't hurt to get that freshened because I am pretty sure that the last 2 seasons of it sounding like a dead battery and chugging for a few seconds before really turning over were the starter getting weaker(?). Have a houseboat trip over the 4th so hoping to have everything reliable before I head down.

[CJD]

Be sure to wire brush all the connections...and you'll be good to go. Where's the house boat trip?

[kenn6752]

Be sure to wire brush all the connections...and you'll be good to go. Where's the house boat trip?

Good call. Cumberland, haven't been since I was a kid. I'm hauling down from MI so I don't need any surprises to ruin things, one can hope.

[Meyeronfire]

Those starters are mounted in a terrible place! I always have issues with mine. I have a brand new starter and it still gets hung sometimes. Easy to install a new one though just two bolts and it falls then the wiring is pretty straight forward if nothing breaks.


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[kenn6752]

The new starter is on the UPS truck for delivery today so hoping to make the swap tonight and really praying that does the trick as I am almost out of time to get her running and back to good before heading out in a week. So its easier to deal with the wires/connections after it's loose from the block?

[garyholl]

I would mount it, then wire it. They have a lot of torque in them so getting the mount right is important.

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[kenn6752]

Whelp got it on last night and the boat roared right up so I guess I lucked out in identifying things right the first go around. It's quite a chore getting the back/inside bolt out. The power & speed it turns over with now has me thinking that the "dead battery" syndrome starts will be gone which is also a relief. Thanks for helping me with the advice and direction seeing as I was a new poster here.

[kenn6752]

Starter issue behind me, but boat started to act up again on my trip. Started to loose power and want to bog down under load, eventually almost sounded like it could have been missing (though I'm not exactly sure) and eventually sputtered and died out when I was idling it back to the boat. Got it back home and in the water last weekend and it was running normal out of the gate and then started to bog down after some use again. I feel like it would be likely a fuel supply issue like its getting choked up or maybe ignition/spark. Seem like a good place to start with some replacements and tune up?

Catching up on some of the easier maintenance items this week to see if they help-
- Changed the plugs out last night
- Trying to change the fuel filter but not quite sure where it is?
- And it wouldn't hurt to change the rotor/cap right? I was thinking this may be all electronic with the EFI but it appears to still have a rotor (distributor?) Any one familiar with these part numbers for the 04 Assault 325? Already written tutorials on any of these replacements I overlooked?

[wotan2525]

Unfortunately, I'm worthless with the EFI engines.

How is your gas? Has it been through a full tank this year? Any chance the gas has water in it?

[kenn6752]

Have been through several tanks. Usually fill it at home with 5 gallon cans from the station. The remainder of the current tank is what's left from a refill at the marina on cumberland. I don't see how the water could have been induced unless there is a leak into the system under the floor or the marina somehow had bad gas on me.

[wotan2525]

Have been through several tanks. Usually fill it at home with 5 gallon cans from the station. The remainder of the current tank is what's left from a refill at the marina on cumberland. I don't see how the water could have been induced unless there is a leak into the system under the floor or the marina somehow had bad gas on me.

Sounds unlikely to be bad gas. It usually gets water in it from sitting over the winter. The moisture in the air collects inside the tank as condensation and then drips into the fuel. If you've been through 5 tanks, I'd keep looking. The fuel/water separator is worth changing, though.

[kenn6752]

I would like to change the separator, fuel filter. rotor and cap just as general upkeep and hoping the issue may reside with one of those. My problem is that I don't really know where to find the water separator or fuel filter. I will keep looking around the engine bay assuming it can't be to buried

[garyholl]

Your fuel filter looks like this (although hopefully not this corroded):
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/rupa9y8u.jpg

I found mine in the front most access compartment, where my sprinkler valves are:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/9u6yqudy.jpg

I had the same problem, changed the filter, cap and rotor for like $60. That took care of it!

[jzelt]

Mine is in the same place as garyholl pic. Under the bench seat, on the starboard side by intake pump for ballast.
You can get a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone to test fuel pressure from the Schrader valve on the throttle body.

[kenn6752]

Thanks guys, my next place to check was going to be under the rear seat and or lifting up the floor panels over the fuel tank. Sounds like it should be back that way then. Fuel pressure would give a good indication on fuel pump status right? Is that something that should be measured while under load/varying speed or is it supposed to be stable no matter the rpms?

[CJD]

Under load is likely the only number worth checking. With a clogged filter the pressure will keep up till the RPM/load reaches a critical point, and the pressure will collapse. Once the engine stalls and slows, it will usually come back up to pressure. So pressure at idle is pretty irrelevant.

[kenn6752]

Got it. Really hoping it's a matter of a quick and cheap filter change to get my power and running ability back(!)

[James b]

I think you must have the V-drive, so the starter is on the port side of the engine, near the bottom and forward. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery, then you can undo the large cable on the starter and one (or 2) small wires. There will likely be a medium size alternator wire paired with the large cable. The starter is held in with 2 or 3 long bolts.

That's how easy it is.

With your boat year and engine option you can pick up a new one from most parts houses. I don't know the pn.

As for your diagnosis...there are 3 reasons for your symptoms. Most common is a bad battery. Second is corroded connections on the large cable between the battery and starter. Finally is the starter itself. I usually diagnose in that order.


Any idea on where the bolts are on the starter. Have the same issue and couldn’t see them when I had a quick look

[kenn6752]

Any idea on where the bolts are on the starter. Have the same issue and couldnÂ’t see them when I had a quick look

Been a long time since I did this repair.
Best I can remember, for my vdrive, was needing to pull out the port side engine/storage panel and the starter was mounted down under the side of the engine on the port side. Should be 3 bolts, threading in port to starboard (threaded in from the left of the engine). 2 in the front, 1 in the back or vice-versa. Something like that.