Shakedown cruise

[devovino]

So had the boat out yesterday for the first time this year ( water was pretty chilly- 62-64 at the mouth of the Deschutes in Lk. Billy Chinook) , all was well for the most part. There still is the leak at the shaft, but it looks like it is actually coming from the shaft coupler instead of the shaft log of the or the drip-less seal, so I will have to figure out how to tighten that up, I figure there the two corresponding bolts need to be adjusted any good input on how to do that from someone who has done it? I installed a new Bimini on the boat and it held up at 40 mph so thats a positive..... and Momma and was happy, the kids had shade. I will probably have to remove it when/if I get a tower, or modify it to accommodate.

Lastly, the when I would start the boat there seemed to be a little hesitation in the beginning of cranking but it would then crank normally and start? I do remember last year when we were out on the water at one point I went to start the motor and there was nothing.. not at all, I tried a few times nada. Let it sit for a few minutes while I took the connections off the terminals off the battery and sanded them down, replaced them and it fired right up so I attributed it to dirty battery terminals/cables. Now I am starting to wonder if it is actually the starter getting ready to crap out? Would hate to be underway and have it not start, should I replace it just in case?

[chris young]

Hopefully it's something simple, but, if you're leaking water from the shaft coupler, that means it's coming from the transmission. Not good. If you're sure it's water and not water mixed with oil, then this won't be the case. Check your transmission fluid. If it's milky, you've got water in there. Depending on your set up, you could be leaking water from the raw water plumbing somewhere above the shaft coupler.

As for the start problem, could be a lot of things, failing solenoid, over advanced timing, bad starter, bad connections. More info might help. When you say nothing, do you mean completely nothing, or could you hear a click?

[devovino]

Hopefully it's something simple, but, if you're leaking water from the shaft coupler, that means it's coming from the transmission. Not good. If you're sure it's water and not water mixed with oil, then this won't be the case. Check your transmission fluid. If it's milky, you've got water in there. Depending on your set up, you could be leaking water from the raw water plumbing somewhere above the shaft coupler.

As for the start problem, could be a lot of things, failing solenoid, over advanced timing, bad starter, bad connections. More info might help. When you say nothing, do you mean completely nothing, or could you hear a click?

OK I am sure its just water, and maybe my terminology is incorrect, its seems to be leaking just above the drip less seal, there is two bolts just above the seal ( or shaft log) ?

I

[devovino]

14388 I am having trouble posting pictures of the nut, irritating..

ALSO, at the time when the starter would not turn, there was nothing- no cranking, no click, nada, there was still accessory power, and everything else was working... just no started crank?

[Jetlink]

Nothing happening when you engage the starter? Did you move the throttle at all and then the starter cranked over?

[devovino]

Nothing happening when you engage the starter? Did you move the throttle at all and then the starter cranked over?

Yeah its hard to say Jetlink, it was a year ago this happened when it would not engage AT ALL, like I said I tried a few times, absolutely nothing, cleaned the terminals, then BAM she fired right up... so maybe it was not in neutral? Maybe I had a few too many.. However, seems like when I was cranking the starter yesterday it was real slooooow at first to turn, then would fire, so I am wondering if the starter is getting tired?

[chris young]

Ok that's actually not a dripless seal, it's a traditional shaft packing, and it's supposed to leak a bit. You can try to tighten it a bit, but you need to be careful, as over tightened packings can wear the shaft. It's a relatively cheap and easy (2 beers the first time you do it, and then after that it's a 1 beer job) to replace the packing.

Everythnig you need to know is here; http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

The goretex packing is available from Skidim.

As for the slow to crank, I'd go for connections before I went after a new starter. Read the whole "weird heat soak problem" thread there's lot's of good info there.

Good luck. If you didn't even hear a click, it could be your ignition switch, neutral switch, starter solenoid, or wiring.

[jzelt]

You have a lot of threads showing on that packing nut. You loosen the skinny one toward the rubber part in your pick, then hand tighten the large nut toward the rubber (I do it till it is good n tight), then tighten the skinny nut and that will hopefully "stop" your leak. You want a drip every 30-60 seconds in gear at idle.
Dripless would look like the rubber part, but have hoses coming in and out of it that cycles water to keep the shaft cool.

[Blackntan90]

Exactly what jzelt said. You may want to replace the packing , though because of what Chris said- you can score the drive shaft if the packing is worn out and you keep tightening the nut. Oh, and clean that bilge! Ha Ha, just kidding!

[devovino]

Exactly what jzelt said. You may want to replace the packing , though because of what Chris said- you can score the drive shaft if the packing is worn out and you keep tightening the nut. Oh, and clean that bilge! Ha Ha, just kidding!

Yeah last year I tightened the rubber stuffing box hose, and that did not fix the drip. So when I was out the other day I looked more carefully and it was indeed leaking from the packing nuts, and way more than just a few a minute, like constantly dripping maybe a drop every couple seconds.... I have never tightened the nuts I will give it a go just giving them a tighten and see if it helps. If not I will resort to re-packing the packing.

With he bilge paint, haah, last thing I am worried about- I figured I would do it when I re-do stringers, and under floor ballast, paint the boat.... but have yet to do any of these things yet, time and money, time and money.....

As for the starter, thanks for the heads up on the "Heat Soak Problem" thread, answered a lot of questions Chris Young, that definitely applies to my situation. I did buy a tune up kit (plugs,wires) have not done them for a few years and could use replacement, maybe throw cap/rotor at it and see where I am at. I might just do a starter for piece of mind, seems like an easy rule out and I have never replace it since having owned the boat for 5 years. Just glad to be floating on nice days is my thing, do some surfing when I can.

[devovino]

Nothing happening when you engage the starter? Did you move the throttle at all and then the starter cranked over?

So just an update on this thread, I was on the water for a few days this weekend, and everything seemed to be great and functioning properly. At one point I docked up, killed the engine and waited for some passengers to arrive an load up. Again I had the problem of my starter not working, AT ALL. This time I double checked (several times) to make sure I was in neutral, It was, prop was not engaged ( i tried both ways) there was power to everything else, just the starter would not make a peep, nothing, not even the slightest engage. So after trying the key probably 10 times. I lifted the motor cover and did the old "tap the starter ploy" with a ratchet, tapped both the starter and solenoid 4-5 time each, then on the first crank after doing this the engine fired right up, and I had not problems the rest of the day starting the motor?
So what does that tell me? Is the starter getting tired? Does it need a rebuild ( if possible) just wondering if anybody else had this problem before, is it a sign of eminent failure in my future? Thanks!

[lively]

Check your ground . The starter is grounded but the engine block when the two are mated . When I have issues like this I'll remove the starter and sand the mating surfaces with Emory cloth to shine it up and make sure my connections are tight and not arcing or corroded . Solenoid could be sticking . Just take it off and go have it tested if you are leaning more to a bad starter . Most autozones / oriellys / napa. Will have all the test equipment to do so .


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