Trayson's DIY "Supra Surf System" (SSS) modeled after the NSS

[trayson]

So, I've been wanting to do a "delayed convergence" system on my boat. I've seen a ton of writeups with various levels of home brew projects. When it came down to it, I found myself debating between doing a Surfgate type system (albeit manual) or a Nautique Surf System (NSS) inspired system.

I found a great template on a forum that gave the exact dimensions of the 2014 Axis surfgate. But then I found a writeup where someone did a NSS inspired system on a Malibu.

I've had the opportunity to ride both a Malibu with Surfgate and a couple of Nautiques (G23 and G25) with NSS. In the end, the less bulk of the NSS and suitability of my hull (flat) for the installation won me over. So, I'm doing a "Supra Surf System" (SSS) on my boat. I'll use HDPE as a baseplate and throughbolt that to my hull. Then I'll have a "blade" likewise made from 1/2" HDPE that will slide out and downward.

I took my measurements for blade excursion from the writeup by H20 Junkie on the Malibu forums http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/48759-surf-plates-nss-type-malibu-project/
Basically he was able to get measurements from a bunch of Nautiques and was able to determine that the optimal sideways excursion is up to 3" and the optimal downward excursion is between 3/4" and 1". I went with 3" out and 3/4" down.

Here is a really crude drawing that was the beginning of my vision (even before I read the other guy's writeup).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EdsSc7WUYDw/U40DNedRF6I/AAAAAAAAQbs/3lEKblN2kmM/s800/NSS1.jpg

The step on the stern of my boat from white to black is exactly 1/2". So the logical choice for material was 1/2" HDPE in white. I figured I'd have two baseplates, a lower "filler" baseplate that covered the white, and another baseplate on top of that that covered all of the lower filler plate as well as some of the black portion of my stern. Then I would have a blade that slid on posts that came up from the baseplates. And a simple knob to secure it in place when extended or retracted. Basically, unscrew knob, slide out the blade to the desired spot, then tighten the knob down. Very manual, but very quick and easy.

To start I got out some cardboard and made a mockup:

Retracted assembly:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ex5rjmJjHJE/U5KXypoVyVI/AAAAAAAAQdU/nw2f5ekE1gU/s800/20140606_212014.jpg

Blade fully deployed:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Syc3mIj_X1s/U5KX5oIBeHI/AAAAAAAAQdc/mIZjPJdvAgM/s800/20140606_212030.jpg

Backside of assembly deployed:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6CXXPoDWBD4/U5KXowmImLI/AAAAAAAAQdM/ZKpGGaSM6CM/s800/20140606_212041.jpg

[trayson]

Next, I taped my cardboard assemply onto my boat to see how it'd look. Of course it was dark out, but I had to press on...

Extended
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nC4uBDfRPXs/U5KX-7SSdiI/AAAAAAAAQdk/mMZk6AxCllE/s800/20140606_213353.jpg

Retracted from front (it looks like it sticks out but is parallel with the lines of the hull and only protrudes because of the rounded corners of the corner)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-16EiMYgzxkc/U5KYD34G5AI/AAAAAAAAQdw/qwa-v3gAuQE/s800/20140606_213432.jpg

Retracted
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NwiaKcYS6cQ/U5KZVG9TSPI/AAAAAAAAQd8/Z5y5pt2yviU/s800/20140606_213423.jpg

Extended from front:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dlrgbwX0kgI/U5Kai_Mi1cI/AAAAAAAAQeI/kNPmc3ABym0/s800/20140606_213403.jpg

Since my goal was to pull my gas tank to install this using through bolting, I made sure to drain my tank down (not hard when surfing on a few outings). I was glad I did that because last night when I tried to drain my tank, I couldn't get any of my fluid pumps working. So frustrating. In the end I muscled the gas tank out without draining it. Luckily there was only probably 6 or 7 gallons left in the tank.

[trayson]

Here's a pic of the inside of my trunk from when I re-did my rudder packing. The stern is at the bottom of this pic.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z1RSchzYCgA/U2qggE5vVVI/AAAAAAAAQG8/G1SfK0ReQW8/s800/20140428_184801.jpg

So, I went to my local TAP plastics and bought 6 pieces of 13x17" HDPE in 1/2" thickness. Turns out that I could have gotten away with 1 piece less as I was able to make my bottom baseplate for both Port and Starboard out of a single piece. But it's better to have too much than not enough. All the HDPE was a total of $78. I played around with taping up a template on the HDPE the other night...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4WsoveHTAuc/U5dNLV9QqII/AAAAAAAAQf4/K7WmIWxlgnE/s800/20140609_220210.jpg

Then I made a run to my local industrial bolt supply company. I chose to go with 1/4-20 bolts because it's such a common thread pattern. I mapped out where I'd have all my bolts and holes. My plan was to have the bolts for the posts going through all of the hull, baseplate(s), and blade. I would have a thin nut on top of the baseplates and then have the remainder of the bolt go through the blade with a nylock nut on top. That way the blade would actually be sliding on the bolts of the posts (or maybe washers) instead of having the whole of the blade sliding on the whole of the upper baseplate. I figure less friction and a small gap would work well.

After my first run to the bolt store, I was into hardware $20. I made another run to a local ACE hardware store and got my wing knobs. ($5). I got some plastic handles that you'd use on a kitchen cabinet or drawer for $5 from Home Depot. I also got a tube of 3m 4200 fast cure from West marine ($15)
http://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/0710846-23.jpg

Last night I made yet another cardboard template for the lower baseplate (that covered the white). I also drilled all of my holes for the starboard side (Regular wave is more important to me so it made sense to start with the blade that would affect goofy and learn from that to make any slight improvements to the Port side). I had my wife hold the smaller lower baseplate to the hull and I drilled the holes in the baseplate from the inside of the boat out using the holes in the hull as my pilot holes. Sadly, I knicked my wife's finger with the drillbit when I THOUGHT I was drilling out one hole and turned out to be drilling out another that her hand was covering! A little blood, but she wasn't hurt.

So, by the end of last night I had all the holes drilled in both baseplates. I then took all my bolts and verified that I had my lengths right. Turns out that almost universally I needed longer bolts because I was going through thicker stuff on the hull than anticipated. So I got down all the actual bolt sizes I needed and went back to Vancouver Bolt and got more hardware. (another $15 in hardware for longer bolts, even more washers, and a few bolts I missed getting the first trip.)

By this time is was getting really late and I'd imagine my neighbors already hate me for my late night boat projects involving drills and impact guns and the like that are outside their bedroom window. So that's where I am so far.

Unfortunately tonight's forecast is for showers and I might be doing some of this in the wet. I'd like to get this buttoned up so I can get the 24 hours of fast cure with the 4200 and not miss any boating time this weekend. It's possible, we'll have to see!

[wotan2525]

Sweet project. I know exactly how I'd make this work. I'd use the outside bolts and washers as slide bearings, leave them just snug enough so that they slide but still tight enough that they don't rattle/move around that much. Then I'd add another slot in the center that was indexed at each end with a spring-loaded push-pull knob that locked into those indexes.

I'm trying my best to describe it. I bet I'm failing so I'm also trying to find a picture and/or name of the type of assembly that I would use. Hold tight and I bet I'll come up with it!

edit: Haven't found the exact part you need but it's something related to a clamping knob with indexing plunger. It's FOR SURE a plunger.... I'm just not finding the perfect part. this is close. http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section10/gn7336.7/index.html

[trayson]

Sweet project. I know exactly how I'd make this work. I'd use the outside bolts and washers as slide bearings, leave them just snug enough so that they slide but still tight enough that they don't rattle/move around that much. Then I'd add another slot in the center that was indexed at each end with a spring-loaded push-pull knob that locked into those indexes.

I'm trying my best to describe it. I bet I'm failing so I'm also trying to find a picture and/or name of the type of assembly that I would use. Hold tight and I bet I'll come up with it!

edit: Haven't found the exact part you need but it's something related to a clamping knob with indexing plunger. It's FOR SURE a plunger.... I'm just not finding the perfect part. this is close. http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section10/gn7336.7/index.html

I get what you're saying. However, for v1.0, I won't know where the various "sweet spots" are, so I'm having infinite adjustment via the knob.

However, the idea you're describing is quite similar to how the Moomba Flow uses a spring loaded pin to lock the flow into the 3 deployed position and the 1 stowed position...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c_zUi0ptCds/Us-GRVAUenI/AAAAAAAAPqw/nbVANxYVR2Q/s800/20140109_175412.jpg

[biggsie]

Nicely done! I'm looking forward to your end result, thanks for taking the time to post for us.


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[trayson]

So, as Washington tends to do in the spring, it rained tonight off and on. And there were times where it was coming down heavy so I had to figure out something to allow me to work on my boat. So I moved my offset patio umbrella and it worked PERFECT.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SubKjV_bHfM/U5qOtJ8fS-I/AAAAAAAAQgo/CElqn0_4MTQ/s800/20140612_170532.jpg

Picking up where I left off last night, I took the blade that had the holes cut into it and made the lines for the channels. (the top actually needed another channel, but I fixed that later).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3Cp_MJ_-BxE/U5qOhT8UiDI/AAAAAAAAQgY/o3P_amMCwNA/s800/20140612_175250.jpg

So I mounted everything up and sealed it all with 3m 4200 fast cure. That stuff is sticky but after my experience with the 5200 on my transom lights, I learned to be careful with it. Here's a pic of the inside of my hull. I made 10 new holes. some of them have the bolts going from the outside in, and some of them are going from the inside out.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ruvoClNjhWg/U5qOliIAr8I/AAAAAAAAQgg/0j-y5-q0aTg/s800/20140612_205752.jpg

[trayson]

So, I've got the Port side mostly done. I wanted to "learn" on that side since the goofy wake isn't that important to me. I have to trim down my hardware as they stick out about 1/2" past the nylock nuts. I guess better too long than too short. I used 1.5" fender washers on the bolts that form the posts for the channels of the blade. As you can see, I cut the top channel longer so it has more support.

Here is a pic of the blade retracted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lP31nVifMe0/U5qO2cXzGVI/AAAAAAAAQhI/YRNbRxZkfdQ/s800/20140612_205540.jpg

Retracted side view. I am not liking those bolts sticking out. But it's late and my neighbors would HATE me if I fired up the compressor and busted out the air grinder!!!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c2neXuHuaxc/U5qOxgM5tOI/AAAAAAAAQg4/oGDx6rflqwg/s800/20140612_205635.jpg

Deployed. As you can see, the blade is sliding on the hardware, not directly on the baseplate. I'll add the knob later.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1iMv21_yofI/U5qOvCYBcaI/AAAAAAAAQgw/KPvX9j38duA/s800/20140612_205554.jpg

Fully deployed from the front. Also, keep in mind that I designed it for 3" of full lateral excursion. I don't HAVE to use that much, it's fully adjustable. The excursion on the bottom is around 3/4".
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P1FwaBXK6Kc/U5qOz--WIHI/AAAAAAAAQhA/X0Et38CLfWw/s800/20140612_205619.jpg

So, I moved on to the Starboard side. I have the lower baseplate cut out, and also the upper baseplate. I've got the back side of the blade cut out (where it goes around the swim platform bracket). I'll start drilling holes for the starboard side tomorrow...

The question I keep getting again and again is "do you think your hull is strong enough".

We'll find out. In a lot of ways, the baseplates are actually going to function to strengthen the hull. adding reinforcement in my opinion.
The other guy that did it on his malibu is having it work just fine and he didn't even through bolt his...
The guy on the Malibu forums is using 3/8" HDPE for his blades and it's working just fine. I'm using 1/2" so mine is thicker. At least 2 of my bolts are on the swim platform backing plate. 2 are where there's extra hull material for the swim platform and the rest are near the corners where things would naturally be stronger. Someone has to be the innovator and risk taker.


Stay tuned...

[Sdc77]

Man that's a cool project and different look than other's. Hope it will work properly, nice job anyway :)

[jtryon]

great project, keep us posted. i was taking measurements to do this to my sunsport last week and hope to have a mockup soon.

[wotan2525]

I don't think I'd be worried about your hull holding up -- I think that will be fine. I'm more concerned with that swiss cheese HDPE holding up.

I'd ditch the nylocks and use SS barrel nuts. Super low-profile. http://www.mcmaster.com/#barrel-nuts/=se3ovn

[biggsie]

I know it adds a lot of work but now would be a great time to relocate your fuel tank forward. Let me know if you need any advise.


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[trayson]

I know it adds a lot of work but now would be a great time to relocate your fuel tank forward. Let me know if you need any advise.


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That is definitely way more than I'm willing to bite off!!

however, while I've got my gas tank pulled again, I'm going to move my transom lights and replace the warped plastic exhaust outlet tips...

[biggsie]

When you have the tips off take a pic. I'm wondering if the 3"SS exhaust pipe protrudes enough for you to do the PVC FAE? Mine is holding up great and it was like $20 and less than an hour to install. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/upyhudyn.jpg


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[trayson]

When you have the tips off take a pic. I'm wondering if the 3"SS exhaust pipe protrudes enough for you to do the PVC FAE? Mine is holding up great and it was like $20 and less than an hour to install. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/upyhudyn.jpg


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No SS Exhaust pipe on mine... Just wet exhaust hose.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3WDgKg3AlmY/U2qgXIxTmeI/AAAAAAAAQGc/g-pkbYnMB04/s800/20140428_184721.jpg

But I would like to do a FAE in my future.

[biggsie]

Interesting...... it's never easy huh?

[trayson]

Interesting...... it's never easy huh?

Not a chance. Although the fact that I have a FLAT stern on my boat with only 1 step that's exactly 1/2" is 'easy' in the grand scheme of things for my Surf System. If I had a rounded hull, it'd be a no-go.

[trayson]

Cleaned up the port side today. I took some length off the bolt that were sticking out and installed the knob. I also trimmed a little off the bottom of the blade and baseplates because they were sticking beneath the hull even with the blade retracted. It was because of the angle of the stern transom. easily remedied. I also added marks to easily tell each inch of lateral excursion on the blade.

Here's a revised Port side blade with the inch measurements:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WBcXJ4-8Gko/U50GQAtBiPI/AAAAAAAAQiM/dMy57QxR8Qw/s800/20140614_191530.jpg

I continued on the Starboard side and it certainly came out nicer. As planned, I learned from doing the one side and was able to make the more important side better. I relocated the channels a bit and just generally improved on all my mounting points.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xfWmgDrPjd4/U5yeKSHBBxI/AAAAAAAAQhw/rlCKTd0yw_I/s800/20140614_120321-1.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Jc9lgvF5QEI/U5ydfD9TRXI/AAAAAAAAQhg/US7-vPx5EZQ/s800/20140614_120337.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GOpoEG_KRyY/U5ydsYsTLqI/AAAAAAAAQho/ty5RHi77Zeo/s800/20140614_120350.jpg

[trayson]

Here is a pic that shows that the blade extends about 3/4" to 1" below the bottom of the hull. this was modeled after the NSS that does the same thing.

(this pic is before we cleaned up the edges and smoothed everything out)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3GhadJS3pCs/U5yeYoob-UI/AAAAAAAAQh4/SONlUHbce8Q/s800/20140614_120406.jpg

Also, I added lines to the Starboard side too. This one extends 3" out laterally. In this pic, the edges were cleaned up nicely and it's in it's finished configuration. Next step is to water test.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pv8Y5Fbtp8M/U50GWC9GVOI/AAAAAAAAQiU/VYGhFC6oLto/s800/20140614_191513.jpg

[jtryon]

when are you dropping it in for a test?? can't wait to see the results.

[trayson]

when are you dropping it in for a test?? can't wait to see the results.

I had hoped to get out on the water Sunday for Father's Day, but it rained. And again it's raining today. Stupid Pacific NW.

Hopefully I'll get out on the water on Wed or Thurs.

[trayson]

Okay, went out for the first night of testing. Bottom line is that it works with some minor concessions. I can most certainly get a totally surfable wave with even weighting and my surf blades. The concessions so far is that it seems like I'm lacking a little bit of push. it's not a deal breaker, as I can certainly surf it. But it seemed noticeable to me.

BUT, the driveability of the boat is vastly improved. I was able to drop the speed at which the boat needed to go by a full MPH. The boat at rest is comfortable and we could have lunch on the boat without it being a listed PITA. We can sit at rest and have a barge go by and not get water over the trunk with the rollers. And we can switch from regular to goofy in 10 seconds flat.

Sorry for all the shots with the sun in your eyes. We tried to run upstream with all of them to be consistent.

Pretty much all these were done with the perfect pass set at 9.7 mph. we filled the 370 tube sack in the trunk. Then we pretty much filled a 750 and put it on the surf side on the floor beside the doghouse to start a bit listed and closer to "normal" (minus another 500 or so that we usually double stack with). So EVERYTHING has the 370 under the rear seat. In addition to that, I did the following configurations:


750 surf side no blade
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JXOusPRuQSo/U6KBcjX8DiI/AAAAAAAAQjU/qUKrXXe90wI/s800/20140618_193347.jpg

750 on the surf side with 3" blade deployment
This improved the look of the wave. Not dramatically but noticeable for sure.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7XyIdRfoaJM/U6KBffARSoI/AAAAAAAAQjk/Y2c8m4UWNts/s800/20140618_193610.jpg

750 on surf side with 1" blade deployment
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vt8dZ_9n0ls/U6KB5H94qFI/AAAAAAAAQkk/MrnCTxysbYk/s800/20140618_193832.jpg

750's on both sides with no blades.
Is anyone surprised that this looks like crap? I didn't think so.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eQRxNLOZSXc/U6KCcAuAkSI/AAAAAAAAQlM/n7y3p-82CQM/s800/20140618_195636.jpg

[trayson]

So then we went on of course to deploy the gates with the boat equally weighted.
Again, sorry for the pic quality. I never thought about the sun.

3 inch blade deployment equal weighting
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-777DtHL9ogA/U6KCma6R6QI/AAAAAAAAQmE/DgWe9P7IJzM/s800/20140618_200118.jpg

I believe that this is the 1" deployment with equal weighting. Not 100% sure though.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hQH6-XHX0Ns/U6KCnmjdCcI/AAAAAAAAQmM/q8E1aTMAu7Q/s800/20140618_200156.jpg

Goofy side with 3" blade deployment
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gZ145BDKF7E/U6KC0jptO9I/AAAAAAAAQm8/-PBvEkW8VNE/s800/20140618_200802.jpg

[trayson]

And finally a couple surf shots.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0vbWxCxK3g8/U6KDQwSohzI/AAAAAAAAQnM/9WRTCuAkFQg/s800/regular%25202.jpg
..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ob-tMJSvTvg/U6KDaHM4BGI/AAAAAAAAQnU/uu2Ta_SHU3w/s800/regular%25201.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hkxoEzptf90/U6KDbLRXuaI/AAAAAAAAQnc/U7c6VBMzbyE/s800/goofy%25201.jpg
Russ thought it was a pretty decent wave on the goofy side. He didn't feel my "decrease in push" criticisms but it was also his first time on my boat... Sadly we had to cut his run short as the water in the gas made it so we couldn't continue to pull at surf speeds.

And here is a picture from 10 days ago with a slammed/listed boat with my 750's double stacked on the surf side and water running at the rub rail halfway up the hull while underway.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EH5Sv9wnqzY/U5PnGUaChpI/AAAAAAAAQfA/WQ_6VHynZXw/s800/mms95picture.jpg

Sadly our testing got cut short because the surf starboard side gate had the unfortunate side effect when deployed of shooting a little spray of water right at the gas tank breather vent. And I ended up with the old "water in the fuel" thing and my engine wasn't happy with me under load. I guess relocating that vent has just moved WAY up on my priority list.

In summary, I feel like these NSS style blades can get a surfable wave with an evenly weighted boat. It's very comparable to the quality of wave I'd get with listing my boat with my two 750's double stacked and the top one 1/2 to 3/4 full. What I did feel is that my wave seemed a little lacking in push compared to what I remember it being with a heavily listed boat. BUT, the usability and drive-ability and comfort of being in the boat is VASTLY improved even with 2 huge sacks taking up the floor. So I'll continue to refine it and dial things in and overall I'd call it a success.

Is it perfect? of course not. Does it make my direct drive have a wake comparable to a perfectly dialed in v-drive, no. But it's giving me more options and is certainly something that opens whole new doors of opportunity with my boat.

[Zim]

Man, you need a V-drive! With as much as you surf, you'd be so much happier. Nice work though.

[trayson]

Man, you need a V-drive! With as much as you surf, you'd be so much happier. Nice work though.

Oh, I agree. Just have to find the right one that I can afford. I am dreaming of a 2005+ Supra Launch 21v. I love the playpen with the front seats that wrap into the bow & have flip up backrests. Also love the rear seating that wraps all the way to the driver seat.

Probably in a couple years...

[Zim]

The 21 seems to have a hard time dialing in a good surf wave. Great wakeboard wake, but look at the 20/22/24 if you want a better surf wave.

[trayson]

The 21 seems to have a hard time dialing in a good surf wave. Great wakeboard wake, but look at the 20/22/24 if you want a better surf wave.

Yeah. But I am hung up on getting that seating config. :)

[Zim]

They all have playpen options. 24 has the wrap seating also... not sure about the 22

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[trayson]

So, I relocated my fuel breather and drained the 22 gallons out of my tank and changed my fuel filter. Filled with new gas and once the bad gas was out of the lines, we were good to go.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fncopoIEJtk/U6Yc6p0J-aI/AAAAAAAAQn4/94AS077vEhg/s800/20140620_205957.jpg

Again, we filled the 370 tube sack under the rear seat and had the pair of 750's on either side of the doghouse. The boat sat mostly flat with a slight (couple inches) list to the port. We fine tuned with the placement of the rear seat spotter.

Bottom line is that I won't go back to listing. Today I had all the push I needed. I was riding my Ronix Caption 5'8 because just as we were leaving the dock my Koal illumanati dropped and cracked the tip of one of the tails and needs some fiberglass repair love.

I was able to ride way further back in the pocket. I was able to carve and shred the wave just fine. We were able to drop our surf speed from being in the 10 to 11 range down to being between 8.3 and 9 mph. The boat isn't working as hard and isn't slammed as much. We had some big rollers go by us and took no water over the stern. We have zero issues with dunking the nose either. With the ballast full, we can easily chill out and have lunch and be COMFORTABLE in the boat. Also, we can drive sitting down. It was bad enough before that I either sat on the top of the backrest of the chair, or just stood up to drive. Swapping from regular to goofy was literally a 10 to 20 second changeover.

Since we're not having to double stack bags, we were able to get 2 ballast pumps going at the same time to fill the 750's while my reversible impeller pump took care of the tube sack under the rear seat.

There is no adverse handling of the boat when going back to get the rider. If you turn against the blade, you kind of notice it but honestly it's not even something you notice unless you're looking for it. The boat comes out of the hole just fine and the wave is clean as soon as Perfect pass has you at surf speed.

We'll get some pics posted up but I would do this again in a heartbeat. Some of you might poo-poo what I've done, but the overall enjoyability of our boat just took a huge leap. I'm going to chalk this up as a success.

None of the pics are on my phone, so I only have a quick mirror shot.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bTuyks0JIiQ/U6Yc4BOg8MI/AAAAAAAAQnw/oayOyaNzNxM/s800/20140621_132601.jpg

[ssa]

Glad its working for you. Might look into something like it for mine down the road.

[trayson]

Here are a couple better pics of the wave. Now, is it a wave that tops a $40k to $100k vdrive? Probably not. But for a 1992 direct drive, I'm pretty happy.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vbbN-51ggtA/U6YlH03LdKI/AAAAAAAAQoI/9AWDQg7OR3M/s800/6-21%2520surf.jpg

This is only the 2nd time I've rode goofy. I'm a newb at it. And obviously regular is better on my boat. But FWIW, here's the goofy wave.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2imUsUpREdY/U6Ym4jQkVCI/AAAAAAAAQoU/IsLgLQz7F1U/s800/6-21%2520goofy%2520surf.jpg

[2500HD]

your boat is right hand prop?

[trayson]

your boat is right hand prop?

My Prop is CCW when looking at the boat from the back. I also have the 1:1 transmission (don't ask me why, it's just what was in the boat when I got it).
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lbpRX262SiI/UhpFTsbBpEI/AAAAAAAAO0o/BoVRDR27Qbo/s800/20130825_103240.jpg

[2500HD]

That is a left hand prop. The only reason i'm suprised is almost all left hand prop boats make a better wave on the goofy side and you say yours is doing it on the regular side.

I think i misunderstood your post. I think you meant the wave is better on the regular side with the nss system.

[jtryon]

trayson, if i were to come up with a way to mount this to the outermost platform bolts on my '88 sunsport, are the nuts on the backside of those bolts accessible without removing the gas tank? or, are they nuts that won't require a wrench on them to loosen/tighten, obviously assuming the bolts aren't taken completely out?

[trayson]

Here is a pic where you can see the bolts going through my hull. I used 10 bolts. 3 down the side, 3 on the bottom, two in the middle, and two through the backing plate of the swim platform. You can also see the two big bolts that are the back of the D-ring for the boat's tie down straps...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ruvoClNjhWg/U5qOliIAr8I/AAAAAAAAQgg/0j-y5-q0aTg/s800/20140612_205752.jpg

In my opinion, no, you couldn't do this effectively without removing the gas tank. But it's not like taking out the tank is really that big of deal. To remove the tank, take off the 3 hoses and the two electrical wires from the tank. Then you've got two bolts in the rear on a bracket and 2 lag screws in the front that hold the tank down. Then lift it out. I've removed my tank twice (rudder packing and NSS install).

[trayson]

That is a left hand prop. The only reason i'm suprised is almost all left hand prop boats make a better wave on the goofy side and you say yours is doing it on the regular side.

I think i misunderstood your post. I think you meant the wave is better on the regular side with the nss system.

My understanding is that a LH prop like mine makes a better wave on the Port side, favoring regular. And yes, with the NSS, it follows the same pattern: better for regular not quite as good for goofy.

[2500HD]

Nope, All of my left hand prop boats have naturally made a wave on the starboard or goofy side. That also meant i needed less pitch from the surfgate for that side.

[trayson]

Nope, All of my left hand prop boats have naturally made a wave on the starboard or goofy side. That also meant i needed less pitch from the surfgate for that side.

Interesting. Because Centurion developed the "surf RIGHT" option where they offered a RH prop rotation to give a better goofy wave:

From one of their press releases:

*"Continuing our commitment to the fastest growing watersport in the world, we have the most innovative options available, such as the SwitchBlade wake enhancement system to customize the shape of the wake on the fly with the touch of a button. Now, Centurion is the only boat manufacturer to offer the RightSurf system. Your friends may call you "goofy", but we understand you simply prefer to surf on the starboard-side. RightSurf enables a gang of goofy-riders to surf a clean face all the time with a right-hand rotation V-drive and propeller."

So, according to Centurion, Right surf = RH rotation = better goofy.

[2500HD]

wierd, I guess my boats just like me since ride goofy. LOL
I thought that with the left hand rotation the prop wash was naturally pushed to the port side thereby cleaning up the starboard side wave. Could also be my fat ass sitting in the drivers seat though. lmao

[trayson]

I love it and I wouldn't go back. I can change from regular to goofy in 10 seconds. The boat is so much easier to drive. When we are at rest, we can have rollers hit us and never worry about taking any water in. Before when we were slammed with all the weight in the back corner, we would have people come up to us and ask if we needed help because they thought we were sinking.

Here is a good video of the results.
http://youtu.be/B65zkbmlK4U

[Albin]

This is awesome man!

I am going to try to add something like this on mine later this summer. After having a chance to mess with it a bit is there anything you would change? When you are evenly weighted do you deploy the blade the full 3" for best results?

[trayson]

This is awesome man!

I am going to try to add something like this on mine later this summer. After having a chance to mess with it a bit is there anything you would change? When you are evenly weighted do you deploy the blade the full 3" for best results?

I seem to have the most fun with it at 2.5 to 3. I tried 1 today and it wasn't very good.

What would I change? Probably would make it out of black HDPE to make it more stealth. I might add some kind of backing plate to some of the bolts instead of just washers on fiberglass. But I'm pretty happy so far.