Researching a 'quick winterization' option...

[trayson]

I was thinking of adding a "quick winterization" option to my boat.

I've seen this kit: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001

http://www.skidim.com/images/mcm001.jpg

After fighting with my boat this spring I never want to have to take out my block drain plugs again. I made a big screw up and when I winterized, I took out the plugs and didn't replace them. So I got tons of rust on my threads. FML!!!

I also realized that the Port side engine plug was bigger than the rest, meaning that someone had probably been previously stripped out and re-tapped to the next bigger size. The starboard one I had a really hard time getting sealed but finally got it to the point where it either sealed or just barely oozed a tiny drip over a few seconds.

Anyway, I'm wondering about a few things.

1) When I winterized, I blew the water out of my heater core. I'd assume that I need to install some kind of drain on that line too so that I could get the water out of there.
2) When I winterized, I removed my impeller. I have the sherwood water pump that has the drain hole at the bottom. If I utilized that drain, could I get by with a 'quick winterization' where I left the impeller in place?

The reason I'm asking all this is because we're having a forecast for a warmer, dryer winter this year. That means a crappy snowboard season, but it could open up the opportunity to take the boat out for a quick set if it didn't mean a whole "winterization production" afterwards...

While This year I'll have covered storage, it still won't be fully indoor or heated. However, I live in the Pacific NW where winter lows hover just above or just barely below freezing. Occasionally we'll have cold snaps into the 20's but it's fairly rare. Temps in the teens almost never happen here. So it's not like I have to do a winterization that would require draining the block and filling with antifreeze.

Also, please keep your feedback constructive. I can live w/o a bunch of overzealous negativity...

[Zim]

First, stop talking about winter already... sheesh.

Second, regarding the block plugs, you just need to coat those threads with grease when you remove them for the year and all will be good when you go to put them back in.
Third, as far as your impeller, you don't have to remove it, but at least remove the lines going to it and spin the pulley a couple times to make sure theres no water stuck between veins. I wouldn't go more than 2 years on a single impeller, and always have a spare in the glove box to save a weekend if need be.
Last, for your heater, just a drain wont be sufficient. The reason you blow air through it is to get it out of the core itself. The core's passages are much smaller and just a light freeze can crack it. Take the extra 3 minutes and give that hose a BJ every season, you'll be glad you did.

That's what I'd do anyway. That kit looks like it would be annoying.

[trayson]

First, stop talking about winter already... sheesh.

Second, regarding the block plugs, you just need to coat those threads with grease when you remove them for the year and all will be good when you go to put them back in.
Third, as far as your impeller, you don't have to remove it, but at least remove the lines going to it and spin the pulley a couple times to make sure theres no water stuck between veins. I wouldn't go more than 2 years on a single impeller, and always have a spare in the glove box to save a weekend if need be.
Last, for your heater, just a drain wont be sufficient. The reason you blow air through it is to get it out of the core itself. The core's passages are much smaller and just a light freeze can crack it. Take the extra 3 minutes and give that hose a BJ every season, you'll be glad you did.

That's what I'd do anyway. That kit looks like it would be annoying.

I was thinking of adding something in the heater core lines that I could blow air into...

Again, the idea is only partially to make winterization easier. But really the idea is to be able to add a margain of safety on those questionable nights when you could "probably" get away without winterizing. And to add a big degree of utility. Bottom line is that there are plenty of days in the PNW's "winter" where with my drysuit, booties, and gloves, we could totally get out and have a blast surfing aside from the fact that it's too much of an ordeal to winterize and de-winterize the boat for one trip out here or there... Basically what happens is that I say it's not worth the hassle of putting the boat on the water because while winterization isn't hard per se, it ends up being a little bit of a production...

If a few valves = enough winterization ease to justify some winter drysuit sets, then why not?? It's not like we get winters like the midwest. The coldest our rivers get are mid 40's and the air temps in the middle of winter are typically in the 50's...

[Supra-in-steamboat]

I've used those for the last six seasons. Super convenient for early and late quick drains when temps drop below the comfort zone. I do also disconnect the raw water line from the lower end of the tranny cooler. Good luck.

[trayson]

Yeah, and since I've been looking into this, I've found the "Y" modification where you put the heater core inlet between the raw water intake and your fresh water pump because I guess it circulates water better when the engine is idling. In this case, I would think I could put a "drain" port on the line where the heater core outputs water and use that as a place to blow water in (which would push air into the heater core and in turn push the heater core water out the fresh water intake...

It works in my head anyway... I think I'd chat with Skidim a little to be sure since they know a lot about the Heater Craft Y-fitting...
http://mccollister.info/yfitting.jpg
http://mccollister.info/ypump.jpg

[CJD]

I used to live on the lake and used the boat daily, even in winter. I tried the block valves, but they tend to get plugged from the scale that flakes off inside the block. I went back to just removing the plugs. Once the water drains, put them right back in and you won't have an issue with corrosion.

[Supra-in-steamboat]

Agreed on the scale or deposits from inside the risers being there, but a simple ream from a small piece of 12 or 14 gauge wire with the valves open (engine running) clears them just fine. I clear them 3-4 times a season and am grateful for them when it's 75 at noon and 30 at night in June. Engine drain with hose disconnect takes 30 seconds. Once a season I make sure they move ( unmount freely) without disconnecting them and don't miss the bloody knuckle I used to get from the riser plug. Good luck.

[SquamInboards]

I use those valves, and I do agree that they get clogged easily. They are a good way to get most of the water out though. And if one is clogged, you can use the wire method mentioned by steamboat above, or just take that one out and clean it, then replace it right away. That's about the same as pulling the plug to begin with, and you may not have to do it.

I also have that y-pipe right before the raw water pump and it definitely helps the heater crank out hot air at idle speed. The only drawback is that when the heater is drained, it makes it harder to get the system pumping water properly because it pulls air into the impeller until the heater core is really filled with water. Which I often have to do by pulling the hose from the block to the heater, holding it up high and filling it with water from a cup (usually an empty beer can honestly). I put some clear hose in that section (heater to y-pipe) so I can see air bubbles.

This all applies for a "quick winterize" that I'd do for the boat if it was going to be a cold night or something. With temps of -20F in the winter, I pump antifreeze through everything after draining and replacing plugs / closing valves, when I'm done with the boat for the season. For the OP, I guess I'd be ok with the valves if you watch carefully to be sure each opening is draining well when you open it up. It's good to open them at the lake or whatever (on the trailer obviously), then tow it home with them open so the engine gets tipped at different angles, too - more opportunity for any puddles of water to get sloshed out. And yeah the heater is very sensitive and full of loops of piping that will crack, so you'll have to blow that out. I've tried a few different systems of draining the heater, including places to put compressed air in, and really nothing beats just pulling the hose at both ends and blowing it through. Kinda sucks but it's reliable and easy. The best (simplest) mechanical air system I used was a rechargeable pump made for an air mattress, with a little hose attached to the stem on the pump. But I would always have to have that with me, and still had to pull the hoses; it's easier just to use my lungs.