Saltare tandem trailer fender source/size?

[cadunkle]

Had a mishap yesterday on these terrible rutted out potholed bumpy roads around here. Rear tire caught the lip of the fender and pulled it in, breaking the top where it was somewhat weakened from rust and bending the tab of the rear step taht the fender mounts to in toward the tire. I'm running larger tires than what was on it when I got it, in attempt for easy ground clearance. Guess it finally flexed enough to grab the fender. Chewed up the tread a little but did not puncture.

I can probably bend it back to shape but given the fenders are starting to rust I think it would be best to replace them. I measure 62" between mounting points on mine. Tandem fenders I'm seeing for sale are 72" or 66". Are our trailers a goofy non standard size or are these measured differently than I think? Where can I get a replacement fender that fits without cutting length out of it? Or should I just be happy I can buy a fender and shorten it? Prefer the original style teardrop between tires but will go with what's available that fits.

[Jetlink]

Gogger had an issue with his fenders on his Pirata trailer. Sounds like the same deal here. Hopefully he can chime in on what he did for a fix or beat him to the punch and PM him.

[Riddell360]

I ran into the same problem with my passenger side fender. I bought mine from northerntool.com for $60. I had to do some cutting because the original fender was cut with a slant on the side of the boat to allow for clearance. As far as the 62" length, I'm a machinist/ metal fabricator so this may not work for you, I just rolled a little on the tire radius and she was good as new. You might be able to take it to your nearest fab shop and they should be able to do the same.


Called-N-sick

[cadunkle]

Yes I just measured and it is narrower at the top. 62" length between mounting points, 9" width at bottom, 7.5" width at top of fender. Height I just eyeballed around 16".

Need to figure something out. I would just get whatever is close and modify to fit but I've had two $800 welders stolen from me and don't want to get any high dollar quick resale tools like that again until I'm able to move away from here. So my welder situation is not good at the moment hence fabrication/modification ability is limited as I have to pull strings to get access to anything. Quick in/out weld 'em in is what I'm after.

I did find these "9"X7"X64" Tapered Tandem Fender" at http://www.mcclaintrailers.com/parts_catalog.htm which say tapered and might fit if tapered means what I think it does. I may end up just taking it somewhere. I'm extremely averse to hiring out any work as every time I've done that I get shit quality for through the roof price, but I can't imagine anyone can screw up trailer fenders. For now I just straightened what I have and bolted it on so I can get to the river or to a trailer/metal shop. Not gonna fall apart tomorrow but I'd like to get these fenders replaced before vacation in a few weeks.

[Zim]

Got a picture?

[inair]

Is you trailer a Boatmate? If so you can buy a direct replacement in various configurations from them here: https://www.boatmateparts.com/products.php?catId=5&PHPSESSID=b4a80e659c25878b3c5bbfe9cdbb83cc

[Riddell360]

Wish I knew about that website earlier. Good find, if I screw another one up, this will make it much easier to replace.


Called-N-sick

[cadunkle]

Not sure if it's Boatmate or another brand, but clicking the details of several of those Boatmate tapered fenders says 9" width at bottom and 7.5" at top, which is exactly what mine are. Just need to figure out if they have the right length. Called and nobody answered so I'll try back later. Might be the easy way to go if they have the right size.

Also called a local trailer place and he said it might be tough to find that sized with a taper, not likely on the shelf but will see if he can get them and let me know.

[Riddell360]

Yeah, mine is a boat mate.


Called-N-sick

[Blackntan90]

If it is an older Sweetwater trailer I have a pair that I would let go really cheap. Shipping might be expensive, and they both have small rust holes at the front near the mounting points.

[gogger]

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?14705-May-2013-Picture-Thread/page5&highlight=gogger

[cadunkle]

Still searching on fenders. Figured today I'd do wheel bearings and check brakes since I noticed some slop in the bearings while I had it jacked up. I had two bearings kits Smith PN 27115 for 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" spindles I have been carrying with me just in case. Praparedness fail. The outer bearings and race are correct, as is the inner bearing. The inner race and seal in thsi kit is wrong, too large OD by about a few hundredths.

Also found upon removing both right side drum/hub assemblies that my rear axle brakes were gone, just bare metal shoes with no friction material. From had plenty of meat left but the inner seal had failed and everything was totally covered in grease. Not sure what the left side looks like but I'd wager about the same so very little braking effort from the trailer. Makes sense as it felt a little push from behind the two times I've had the boat out this season.

OK so check for shoes, none of the local auto parts stores have them or even know what I'm talking about. Look online and see shoes cost almost as much as a whole backing plate with wheel cylinder, springs, shoes, and adjuster. OK, so that's the route I'll go. Figure no worries, I have two bearing kits so I may as well just change the bearings on this side, order two more kits along with 4 brake assemblies and hopefully be good to go by the weekend, if not definitely by end of next week for vacation.

After disassembling drums/hubs I find my inner race and grease seal are too large OD. Everything else fits. Clean parts, check part numbers, measure dimensions, etc... Figure out details of what I have and what I need. Bearings all have part numbers, so easy enough. Seal, not so much. So measure the old seals as best I can (mangled from removal), along with hub and spindle and with some googling figure out what I need. Find it all at etrailer and $300 later I've got everything ordered with express 3-5 day shipping.

As Friday is a holiday I don't expect to get it by the weekend and I'm planning on riding Sunday. So clean up the hubs/drums and isntall the correct outer race and bearings I have. Will decide course of action when I get shipping information. If it looks like I'll get the parts after the weekend I'll probably throw it all together with the old inner bearings and races, pack the hell out of it with grease, and call it good enough for the weekend. The ramp isn't far so a dip or two isn't a big deal with either no seals or mangled seals and trashed brakes and it doesn't take long to change it out clean/repack. Just gets annoying that everything is last minute and whenever I need parts nobody local stocks it.

Not sure what make my trailer is, no markings I can find to indicate manufacturer. ST0004 on a punched tag on the tongue is about it for markings, but looks like every others 80s Saltare or Pirate trailer I've seen. Part numbers for my bearings:

Inner:
Race SKF L-68110
Bearing SKF L-68149

Outer:
Race L44610
Bearing L44649

Seal
PN 168233
OD 2.33"
ID 1.694" (sleeve)

I'll definitely have these, and hopefully figure out fenders before vacation. If not I'm rigged good enough that I'm not worried about it in the context of a thousand miles or so.

[Riddell360]

Google motionindustries.com, it's an industrial bearing supplier, they can find any seal and bearing out there. Your bearing should be easy to find with them because they deal with skf direct. I will talk to our skf rep and hand him your numbers, they are in our shop all of the time.


Called-N-sick

[wotan2525]

I've always been able to get bearings and seals at NAPA. My local farm supply has kits that are supposed to fit these spindles but they don't quite match (probably the same problem that you've had?)

I can't remember if it's the brake shoes or the cylinders -- but one of them was used in just about every Chevrolet Cavalier in existence. There's a local brake warehouse near me that can put new friction material on any pads for about $60/axle. I'd eat my hat if those shoes weren't pulled out of a domestic parts bin, though. I'd probably be on rockauto looking at the measurements and trying to match them up. Beats waiting for shipping and paying for all those new parts when you just need the grippy stuff.

[cadunkle]

The whole assembly with backing plate, shoes, springs, wheel cylinder, and adjuster was $45 per wheel and free shipping. Pretty much best I could find and lately the time saved by just bolting an assembly on vs rebuilding what I have it worth a few bucks extra if need be. Looks like tentative Monday delivery but I got the two seals and races I needed from NAPA so I can button it up for the river this weekend then just pull the drums and change brake assemblies and do the other side next week and have good brakes before the long trip for vacation. So it looks like I should be good on parts. Just an oddball size on the inside of the hub. Will have a few extra parts, I'll probably get enough to have two spare kits that definitely fit what I have and leave them in the truck or boat in case I have a failure on the road.

[Blackntan90]

When I did my shoes, took them to NAPA and they matched up to early Chevy S-10.