trans lockout button wired backwards

[skeeterfro]

I got a supra saltare and the trans lockout button is wired backward. When I pull it out the ignition doesn't work. How do I rewire this?

[SquamInboards]

When you pull out the knob to give the boat throttle in neutral, you can't start the engine? Is that the issue? It sounds like it's not disengaging the shift cable. When the engine is running, if you pull out the throttle-only knob, then advance the throttle, does it go into gear?

[CJD]

I'm not sure what the issue is...the ignition neutral cutout switch or the shifter cutout?

[skeeterfro]

once engine running, I can pull out the knob and rev it up. however if I have to give engine some throttle when cranking it, it puts tranny in gear and when it starts it lunges forward. engine will turn over in any throttle position. I have put a new neutral safety switch and didn't change.

[SquamInboards]

once engine running, I can pull out the knob and rev it up. however if I have to give engine some throttle when cranking it, it puts tranny in gear and when it starts it lunges forward. engine will turn over in any throttle position. I have put a new neutral safety switch and didn't change.

So, what would happen if you start the engine, then advance the throttle in neutral by pulling out the knob, then leave the lever right there and shut off the engine. Then without moving the throttle lever at all, try and start it again. There is no way it could suddenly be 'in gear' if it wasn't in gear while the engine was running.

The reason I'm asking is, the neutral throttle knob is strictly mechanical, and disengages the shift cable mechanism while still engaging the throttle cable. The neutral switch is on the transmission itself, and it electrically 'opens' or 'closes' the start circuit based solely on whether the transmission is in gear. So the neutral throttle knob has no electrical connections, nor does the control box itself. It's a pretty simple mechanical thing that doesn't know or care whether the engine is running currently.

The fact that your engine will turn over with the boat in gear, sounds like someone bypassed the neutral safety switch circuit somewhere higher up in the harness, hence replacing it had no effect.

[CJD]

I'm still not sure what is going on, but I believe I understand it like this...

The shifter lockout is working as it should. But, the starter will crank with the throttle in gear? If this is what it sounds like, then I have to agree with Boards...it sounds like the wiring to the cutout switch is shorted. Trouble shooting will be a matter of testing the wires at the ignition, cutout switch, and starter solenoid with a test light or ohm meter to see where the short is occuring.

Will the boat crank in neutral? If it does, that doesn't help...but if it doesn't, then your new switch has opposite polarity for the application, i.e open when it should be closed. That would be a switch issue instead of a wiring issue.

[garyholl]

Can you skip the wiring in the harness and just run two new wires to it?

[skeeterfro]

The boat will start in any forward position and in neutral. I bought the boat working this was and they guy I bought it from said its was that way when he got it. It will not turnover at all when I pull out the transmission lockout. It will usually start when I pump it a few times, but occasionally I have to give it throttle to start and its already in gear. I've tried all I can think of. I would really like to figure this out. I have young kids and they are always crawling allover the boat. I would hate to have one of them crawl in and start it up and it takes off.

[skeeterfro]

Also the neutral safety lockout is froze up. It doesn't move. Should I just replace the hole unit?

[SquamInboards]

The boat will start in any forward position and in neutral. I bought the boat working this was and they guy I bought it from said its was that way when he got it. It will not turnover at all when I pull out the transmission lockout.

It sounds like your control box is broken, so when you pull the knob out, it doesn't actually do anything. It's supposed to disengage the mechanism that moves the shift cable.
Separately, your neutral safety switch is not doing its job of electrically preventing the boat from starting in gear.


Also the neutral safety lockout is froze up. It doesn't move. Should I just replace the hole unit?

Are you talking about the little cup under the knob on the throttle handle? Yes, that should move up to allow you to shift, and it should snap back down in neutral to any movement of the throttle handle.

I have a non-functioning neutral lockout (the little cup below the knob), and with my kid (soon to be kids) running around the boat I'm seriously considering replacing the control box to have a functioning lockout.

I would get a new control box, and find out where the wires are improperly connected, thus causing the boat to ignore the electrical neutral safety switch and start in gear.

[skeeterfro]

Thanks. I'll just replace it. Better safe than sorry

[SquamInboards]

Thanks. I'll just replace it. Better safe than sorry

Just to be clear, the issue of starting in gear is very likely unrelated to the control box and will have to be addressed separately.

Actually, just for kicks I'd take the existing control box apart and see if it's repairable before replacing it.

[chris young]

Could you post a photo of the control? The part that's got me scratching my head is that if you pull out the neutral knob it won't start. That makes me suspect that you've got some other type of control that did not come with the boat that actually has electrical wiring going through it. As previously mentioned that knob (on our boats) merely disconnects the throttle lever from the transmission cable so you can move the throttle without moving the transmission lever.

[SquamInboards]

Could you post a photo of the control? The part that's got me scratching my head is that if you pull out the neutral knob it won't start.

I think it will start with that knob out, but the problem is that if he advances the throttle at all, even WITH the knob out, it will go into gear. So it's not disengaging that cable as you mentioned.

There are three different "neutral safety" things at play here:

1. Neutral throttle advance knob, the thing you pull out to advance throttle only.
2. Neutral safety switch, the electrical switch on the transmission itself, which interrupts the start circuit when the transmission is in gear.
3. Neutral "interlock," the little cup under the shift knob that you have to pull up to get the throttle lever out of neutral.

It seems like the OP is 0 for 3 on neutral safety mechanisms, which makes it harder to figure out exactly what's going on and how to fix it.

[skeeterfro]

I'll try to clarify, stock control box. Button pushed in, throttle in neutral, boat will crank. However, boat will also crank in any forward position. Pull knob out. Boat will not crank. When its running, I can pull out button and the rev in neutral. Shut boat off, will not crank till I push the button in. Also the cup on control lever is froze up, it won't budge. Here are my worries, small kids could start the boat in wide open throttle and just take off. I changed neutral safety switch and nothing changed.

[CJD]

I'd start with the control. It's obvious that it is screwed up. Once you have it functioning correctly...i.e. the neutral lock, then we can start trouble shooting the electrical cutout issues. I suspect there is an electrical switch inside your particular controler that can get sorted out once you fix it. If you have kids, you want the neutral lock to work!

[chris young]

I have to agree with CJD. I didn't think there was any connections at the controller, but there has to be. I noticed that you said you replaced the neutral safety switch, ( I'm assuming on the transmission). If this didn't fix the problem then it may be the actuator mechanism inside the transmission is broken. And perhaps someone installed a switch at the button to cure the problem but wired it backwards and gave up???

[skeeterfro]

I've decided to replace control box. Mainly because the neutral safety switch is totally locked up. What is the best replacement model for my boat. Mv-3 ski boat control or ch-2200 p both from sea soultions.

[skeeterfro]

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/mcda2-CH2200P.pdf

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/mcda9-MV3.pdf
If there are better suited ones let me know.

[SquamInboards]

Thanks for the clarification. Very strange indeed. I think CJD and Chris Young are correct that there must be an electrical switch in the control. I am very curious what you will find when you open that up.

Personally I like the CH2200P better, it's closer to the stock control with the overall design and position of the throttle handle, etc. Has anyone else here replaced their old control with that model?

[chris young]

Anything happened here? Just curious