Where to buy prop shaft coupler key

[svahle]

I have not torn into it yet but I believe I have sheared a key between the prop shaft and coupler at the transmission. I know I can order the key at skidim. However, I'd like to find the key locally to speed up the repair process. Any thoughts on where I might find one? I've checked a few auto parts stores with no luck. Harbor Freight has a key assortment but they are mild steel and not brass. There is one marine shop not too far away that might have it and I'll be calling them later today. Any suggestions are appreciated.

From my research, I believe the key is brass 1/4" x 2". I understand the length can be a bit off and I may have to cut it down to length.

Thanks again in advance.

Shannon

[Wulphie]

It depends on what type of area you live. You need to find a industrial supply, machine shop or electric motor repair shop. They are the type of places that would have key stock. In my area it would be relatively easy to find but some areas probably not.

[wotan2525]

I've got an old-school ACE Hardware near me that has an entire cabinet full of different keys. I'd track down a good hardware store and I think you should be good. Where are you located? Someone may be able to help.

[svahle]

Thanks for the help. I'm in Springfield, Missouri. I presumed I could find one locally, but I didn't know where to begin. Time is so scarce during the week that a little guidance on where to start looking is valuable.

[svahle]

I found a brass key at the local marine sales and service center that deals almost exclusively in inboards. Now if I can find time to tear into it. Thanks for the help.


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[SquamInboards]

I realize it's too late now, but you can order the stuff from Grainger or a similar place; you get a 12" lenght of the 1/4" key stock for about the same as you pay for 2" from skidim.com or something.

[CJD]

If the coupler spun on the shaft for any length of time, you may need a new coupler and/or prop shaft.

[chris young]

I have to agree with CDJ. There are many who advocate replacing the coupler anytime you remove it. If it slides easily on to the prop shaft, it's too loose. It should need to be tapped on. That's probably why it sheared the key in the first place. Like the prop, the coupler should not rely on the key to turn the shaft. They all have either a couple of screws that squeeze the shaft and the coupler together, or they're split (my new one is like this) so that a couple of heafty bolts squeeze it on to the shaft.

[svahle]

Thanks for the info guys. When the failure happened I wasn't driving. I was under the impression that the coupler was spinning but the shaft wasn't. When I finally had a chance to inspect everything, it turns out the key did not shear. My coupler is still tight and the key is intact. The tranny fluid level is spot on and is normal in appearance. Furthermore, the tranny has less than 400 hours since it was completely rebuilt. I now believe have a damper plate failure. I've already located and read the excellent threads on this site about damper plate failures and replacement. I've read several on other forums also. I'll first pull the starter and see if I can detect any shrapnel. But ultimately I expect to pull the tranny in the next week or so and, fingers crossed, I'll find a failed damper plate (as opposed to an internal tranny issue). Thanks again for the help and input.