getting stains out of fiberglass.

[BOWZ]

Well I pulled the boat out Christmas eve and took it to work with me the next day at 430AM in 28 deg weather. Was able to get it off the trailer today and cleaned up. A big task but well worth it in the end. ON & Off Hull Cleanerhttp://www.amazon.com/MaryKate-On-Off-Bottom-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXNNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419642444&sr=8-1&keywords=on+%26+off+hull+cleaner

I had two 6K forklifts, one for the rear lifting eyes and one with a boom on it for the front.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/A2D846B2-5867-44AE-B477-F22D4DFEA1B9.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/A2D846B2-5867-44AE-B477-F22D4DFEA1B9.jpg.html)

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/22E92EF2-5B1A-4DB5-86C5-A2A6C6A6ACD9.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/22E92EF2-5B1A-4DB5-86C5-A2A6C6A6ACD9.jpg.html)

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/A92B4386-3315-48E4-8772-75F299BF1059.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/A92B4386-3315-48E4-8772-75F299BF1059.jpg.html)

to be continued...

[BOWZ]

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/F1267884-D392-46E1-A06F-DE730ED78346.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/F1267884-D392-46E1-A06F-DE730ED78346.jpg.html)
Just aft of the L has been cleaned

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/70FF2C15-4A98-4862-8EF1-74CF16212F1F.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/70FF2C15-4A98-4862-8EF1-74CF16212F1F.jpg.html)
the pictures don't even do it justice. left is dirty and the right is all cleaned up.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/B36B5D56-508D-4243-B0F9-4DD89A42CB43.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/B36B5D56-508D-4243-B0F9-4DD89A42CB43.jpg.html)
The most stressful time, I had to raise it so high due to the angle of my application brush.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/6A6BF9B4-2CD6-48C7-AFB8-BA0EEDFE029B.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/6A6BF9B4-2CD6-48C7-AFB8-BA0EEDFE029B.jpg.html)
All done and loading it back on. I back up until the back of the trailer can support the front of the boat, remove the front blocks, back up to the the rear blocks, remove them and finish backing under the boat. I took it off the same way in case the hydraulics failed on the forklift, the boat would fall 2in onto the trailer and/or the blocks.

[BOWZ]

And the last pictures, sorry to bore ya, i'm just tickled pink on how it turned out

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/04DC5D58-1046-4D87-BDEC-F91FBA9A41A1.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/04DC5D58-1046-4D87-BDEC-F91FBA9A41A1.jpg.html)
before

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/bigbossbowz/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/CF19DF24-867F-478F-9E3E-DF313B5442C1.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/bigbossbowz/media/03%20SUPRA%20SSV/CF19DF24-867F-478F-9E3E-DF313B5442C1.jpg.html)
after

I'm pretty happy with the On and off. My white has never been very bright. I spent a good day last summer trying to bring back the shine in the fiberglass with Meguires restoration kit and a semi orbital buffer, it made it shinny but didn't take care of the hazed/dull color of the entire boat. I just got some buff magic and pro polish in the mail today, hopefully after new years my new polisher will come in. I'm hoping to bring this boats fiberglass finish back to the shine it had the day it rolled out of the dealership! Thanks for looking through my pictures!

Bowz

[Kma4444]

Very nice, nothing like a proper cleaning!!!!!!!

[CJD]

Cool photo series!

I am not sure what they include in the McGuire's kit, but bringing the shine back to a weathered hull involves a lot of elbow grease and very fine sand paper. For the bad areas, start with 600 grit. Work your way down through 800 and 1000 to 2000 grit. The better the surface is, the finer the paper you can start with. Use water to keep the dust washed as you work so it doesn't build and score the surface. Always circular motions (yes, the old "wax on, wax off"!) Once you have worked it to the 2000 grit, it will look shiny as it is...then you use the orbital buffer with a polishing compound, then a sealant, and finally a wax coat. All these supplies are available at any auto paint supply store.

Wet sanding an entire boat is not for the weak of heart...but the results give you a boat that looks new!

[BOWZ]

Very nice, nothing like a proper cleaning!!!!!!!

thanks KMA


Cool photo series!

I am not sure what they include in the McGuire's kit, but bringing the shine back to a weathered hull involves a lot of elbow grease and very fine sand paper. For the bad areas, start with 600 grit. Work your way down through 800 and 1000 to 2000 grit. The better the surface is, the finer the paper you can start with. Use water to keep the dust washed as you work so it doesn't build and score the surface. Always circular motions (yes, the old "wax on, wax off"!) Once you have worked it to the 2000 grit, it will look shiny as it is...then you use the orbital buffer with a polishing compound, then a sealant, and finally a wax coat. All these supplies are available at any auto paint supply store.

Wet sanding an entire boat is not for the weak of heart...but the results give you a boat that looks new!

It has oxidation remover, high gloss polish and pure wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT I just think the oxidation remover wasn't gritty enough to do what I need plus my dual action buffer didn't have enough oomph to really work the fiberglass.

I have done a ton of research on wet sanding, my oxidation isn't bad enough to start playing with sandpaper right now. I am going to see how this buff magic does, if no go then wet sand here I come. Pretty crazy the videos on youtube, figured it was worth a try. Its also intriguing on what they say the pro polish is and does. Its worth a try, I am pretty disappointed with meguires boat care stuff. I used it on my old cuddy cabin boat and it just wouldn't last very long, I chalked it up to being a 20 year old boat and salt water, but after using it on this boat in freshwater I'm just plain disappointed. The only think I like is there premium wash/wax. What is the sealant you are talking about?

also any pointers on removing the snaps and hardware off the cap so I can get a more uniform cut/polish? I don't want to create any spider cracks.

I don't shy away for big tasks, my time is worth a whole lot more than the little money I have! And I have more time with it being to cold to be on the water! thanks for the input!

Bowz

[carlossa]

Bowz
Nice work with the forklifts by the way, its given me another approach to do the same thing. I have an 04 SSV that is the same as yours pretty much. Mine is navy blue and had been left out in the Aussie sun for 6 years without care or a cover. I tried several gel coat restoration products including meguires (never been a fan of their products), septone etc etc. I could never get rid of the cloudy appearance which was always easily seen in the navy blue. A mate that I work with was a paint rep for 15 years and gave me this to try http://www.amazon.com/3M-POLISHING-39062-39061-5723/dp/B0082LK87Y http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/8156yEMg%2BWL._SL1500_.jpg It worked very well and looks like new and can now see my reflection even in the worst side. Good luck and I'm sure you'll post the progress pics.
Regards Carl

[Cusefan78]

Buff magic is good. Used it before but the 3m stuff above is what I use now. Best stuff out there. For info on how to strip the boat hardware go to the team talk forum and there is a guy that walks you through every step with removing snaps and hardware then walks through using the 3m products really great write up. My boat has never shined up so well.

[BOWZ]

Carl thanks, if this stuff doesn't work I will look into that!

Cusefan I will have to go find it, I just got done pulling my snaps off and bad news, you can look at my new thread. Good to know about your use with the 3m stuff! My dad used 3m for his old starcraft tri hull but couldn't remember what one. It was 30 some years old and I can still remember seeing my reflection in it.

Bowz

[CJD]

Just to elaborate...

I know sanding is scary to think about if you haven't done it before. That's because most people are only familiar with the coarse, household paper...like 90 to 150 grit. The 600+ is really fine paper. And, when you get into the 1000+, it is more like sanding with plain paper than traditional sand paper. There are a few things to point out.

First, there is "fresh" paper and "broken" paper. So, a fresh sheet of 800 grit is equivalent to a broken, or used, sheet of 600 grit. You could actually shine even the worst surface with only buffing compound and a power buffer, but it will take a very long time. Sanding expedites the removal of the oxidation, so the buffing only takes a few passes. Use the finest paper that quickly knocks off the oxidation. Always end with at least 1000 grit before you buff.

The orbital buffer works great for surfaces that are pretty decent. If you have a lot of oxidation, and/or plan to paint or buff cars/boats frequently, then spring for the straight circular buffer. It's a heavy duty buffer that spins at 1200 to 2400RPM. It cuts quickly, and the center shaft can hit the surface, so it does take a bit of practice to wield it without causing damage. It uses replaceable cotton or polyester discs, and is used by holding the buffer at a slight angle to the surface.

The 3m products are the best...or at least they are all I have ever used, and I've had no reason to look for anything else. Buffing compounds are more coarse for cutting a shine faster. Polishing compounds are less coarse. If you end with 1000+ grit, then then you can go straight to the polishing compound. 3M even makes a polish/sealer all in one.

A sealer just locks the pores in the fiberglass. It makes the wax final coat easier to apply.

After you work on a section or two, you will start to get a feel for how much oxidation the buffer will quickly remove, and how much requires sanding before you buff.

As for the hardware...it all unbolts. You can work the fine paper and buffer pretty closely to most of the hardware without removing it. The only down side to removing, is you may run into corroded screws that break off. You also have to re-bed everything as it goes back on. Most of the time it's easiest to hand buff around them rather than mess with removal.

Anyway...that's a quick description. It's not hard, but it is time consuming. A real circular buffer really speeds the job too.

[Cusefan78]

Harbor freight actually makes a good buffer. I have had mine for three years and it's never let me down. 3m imperial, 3m finesse it, collinite double wax to finish it off is my recipe.

[BOWZ]

Thanks again guys. My variable speed straight circular buffer came in and I hit a 1ft by 1ft section and WOW does it look good! Defiantly going to cover the inside of the boat, it is going to make a mess. Thanks CJD on the wet sand info. I'll keep you guys updated!


Bowz