1988 Supra Mariah: Floor and Stringer Restoration and more...

[flipz96]

I have a 1988 Supra Mariah which I bought this past summer. This is my first boat and I thought it was a good deal at the time. It had a wrap and a tower which made it look newer than it was. I am not a fan of the blue camo hydroturf, but I will suffice for now as long as I was able to get out and wakeboard. I was able to use it almost all summer and despite having a low freeboard, she puts out a decent wakesurf wake.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/41FDF4CC-CEBA-4E0A-A158-B75821E3302B_zpss11wbaxe.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/41FDF4CC-CEBA-4E0A-A158-B75821E3302B_zpss11wbaxe.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CB91B506-C67C-498F-8071-F90DD1BDE65F_zpspgwnxhol.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CB91B506-C67C-498F-8071-F90DD1BDE65F_zpspgwnxhol.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/6885458E-B3E0-40F8-841F-7E962983ED3E_zpsdhum0gii.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/6885458E-B3E0-40F8-841F-7E962983ED3E_zpsdhum0gii.jpg.html)


It had some issues with going in reverse because my prop side coupler nut would unscrew. This happened to me 4 times on the water. The first time I didn't have the tools to get it on so I had to swim it to a nearby dock which lucky had a boat ramp. I bought the appropriate size rachet to get it on the next day and tightened as much as I can. I did notice that the the threads on the shaft were a little worn...as if it was tightened while misaligned. The next I went out and used reverse it backed out again. I bought lock tight thinking that would cure the problem...of course it didn't and it came off again. Unfortunately, I was getting used to holding my breath underwater while another person tightens the nut on deck. I just stayed off the reverse for the remainder of the summer.

Wanting to be able to use reverse, I did a little more inspecting and research. I saw that the keyway was worn out a little on the shaft but more so on the coupler. In reverse, the shaft would slip inside the coupler and unscrew the nut. I brought the coupler to a machine shop to recut the keyway. I installed it and the vibration was really bad. Thinking back, I know there shouldn't be any play at all in the key way. Looking for the quick fix, I ended up buying a new shaft and coupler from skidim. After getting it installed, I noticed that I was a little misaligned and upon further inspection noticed that the stringer on the portside was hollow and the bolt was able to spin freely.

Initially, my plan was to do a partial repair of the stringer only on the engine mount area. I cut out the portside and some parts were coming out like compost and even mud. The starboard side was actually pretty decent. I figure since I was doing on side might as well do the other. I cut inspection windows in the soft spots on the floor saw that the foam was soaked. There was water intrusion from the screw holes used to secure the helm seat and the aft seats to the sole and no limber holes for the water to drain. My next thought was to do a "cap on" floor/stringer restore, but having a soft spot in the play pen, I know a "cap off" restoration will be in the near future anyways. I read a few stringer/floor restoration threads on here, but I never thought that I would be writing one myself...SOB!

[flipz96]

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Used a fork lift to get the engine out.

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Trying to determine where I should start/stop my repair.

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Its not looking good.

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Looking like compost and mud as I dig deeper.

[Okie Boarder]

Definitely looks like widespread rot. I wouldn't do this halfway.

[flipz96]

Definitely looks like widespread rot. I wouldn't do this halfway.

I'm definitely moving forward with a cap off stringer/floor restoration. I removed the rub rail/screws/rivets this weekend. For ease of moving, I also removed all my upholstery and my wake tower. I should be able to pop the deck off this week. I disconnected the gas tank hose, the hoist rings on the bow and transom, and the blowers. The only thing else that I can think of is the steering cable. Is there anything else I'm missing? Also...is it easier to disconnect from the steering wheel or the rudder end. The gas tank is still in there so I'm thinking at the steering wheel. I lost daylight so I didn't have time to look.

[Okie Boarder]

I ended up disconnecting both ends of the steering cable, but started with the steering wheel end. I think you've hit on everything that needs to be disconnected.

[lmnelson86]

I searched and searched for 1988 Supra Mariah info a few months back when I started my project to no avail. Glad to see someone else tackling the same exact boat. I suspect you've read through my thread as well. I was in the same position as you, do a partial restoration or do the full cap off resto. Cap off is the only way to go, and removing the top was actually the easiest thing I have done on this whole project. Don't forget to tackle the transom while you're at it. Even if it is decent/OK, it is an easy fix. No sense in removing the cap and not replacing the transom while you're at it.

I am interested to see how your project turns out. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me since I am doing the same exact thing, but a few months ahead. Good Luck! Take tons of pics!

[flipz96]

I searched and searched for 1988 Supra Mariah info a few months back when I started my project to no avail. Glad to see someone else tackling the same exact boat. I suspect you've read through my thread as well. I was in the same position as you, do a partial restoration or do the full cap off resto. Cap off is the only way to go, and removing the top was actually the easiest thing I have done on this whole project. Don't forget to tackle the transom while you're at it. Even if it is decent/OK, it is an easy fix. No sense in removing the cap and not replacing the transom while you're at it.

I am interested to see how your project turns out. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me since I am doing the same exact thing, but a few months ahead. Good Luck! Take toins of pics!

Thanks man! I have to admit I was kind of excited to see your thread. I should have the deck off this weekend and remove the floors. My plan is to manually digitize the stringers and floors in CAD so that it can be cut on the 3 Axis and have it for anyone else that may be interested. I am a design engineer and I have access to a CNC 3 Axis router with a vacuum table. I am a better designer than a woodworker...plus I am all about contributing to the group.

[flipz96]

These are photos from this past weekend. Nothing special. Just took out the upholstery, tower, and rubrail. I'm fortunate to have a job with extra space for me to all my work in and have access to fork lifts, routers, grinders, etc.

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I'm am also lucky to have a girlfriend that is willing to help me when she can. She might kill me for posting this. LOL.

The PO installed a electric fuel pump which I used to drain the tank. I'll probably remove it completely once I get everything back in and strictly rely on the mechanical pump. Its just another thing to worry about clogging/failing.

[lmnelson86]

These are photos from this past weekend. Nothing special. Just took out the upholstery, tower, and rubrail. I'm fortunate to have a job with extra space for me to all my work in and have access to fork lifts, routers, grinders, etc.

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I'm am also lucky to have a girlfriend that is willing to help me when she can. She might kill me for posting this. LOL.

The PO installed a electric fuel pump which I used to drain the tank. I'll probably remove it completely once I get everything back in and strictly rely on the mechanical pump. Its just another thing to worry about clogging/failing.


How the hell did you get the observers seat out? I'm not sure if the PO rigged mine, but I cannot find the bolts that come through the backside of the seat. So for now I left it alone.

Thanks!

[flipz96]

How the hell did you get the observers seat out? I'm not sure if the PO rigged mine, but I cannot find the bolts that come through the backside of the seat. So for now I left it alone.

Thanks!

If I remember correctly there were 3 nuts.
- One on the upper left (reach through the speaker hole)
- One on the lower left (after you remove the hinged seat, reach underneath and up)
- One at on the upper right (in the battery compartment)

[lmnelson86]

Thanks for the info, I will look into it when I get ready to drop the top deck back on.

[Okie Boarder]

Looks like you are off to a good start. Glad to see the GF helping...that's a good woman right there.

[flipz96]

Looks like you are off to a good start. Glad to see the GF helping...that's a good woman right there.

Thanks man! I'm pretty lucky!

[flipz96]

Do I need to remove the steering wheel to separate the steering column from the top deck? I removed the 3 bolts that hold the steering unit to the dash, but it looks like the steering wheel has to be removed to have it pass through the hole. Am I missing something?

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[leetudor]

Yes, the helm comes out from the back side.

[lmnelson86]

Do I need to remove the steering wheel to separate the steering column from the top deck? I removed the 3 bolts that hold the steering unit to the dash, but it looks like the steering wheel has to be removed to have it pass through the hole. Am I missing something?

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Use some elbow grease, a flat bar, and some good old fashioned f-bombs. It will pop off. It took me a minute or two but if I remember correctly, it just needed some muscling around to get it off. Its been sitting together for 27 years, it may be slightly corroded in there making it tough to pop apart.

[wotan2525]

Use some elbow grease, a flat bar, and some good old fashioned f-bombs. It will pop off. It took me a minute or two but if I remember correctly, it just needed some muscling around to get it off. Its been sitting together for 27 years, it may be slightly corroded in there making it tough to pop apart.

You can rent (for free!) a steering wheel puller (or use a 3/4 arm puller) from any Oreilly or Autozone.

[Okie Boarder]

Thanks man! I'm pretty lucky!

Agreed. My wife has always been like that. Back when I was 15, her Dad owned a automotive repair business. The summer prior to driving I got to work at his shop getting my car ready (had to put in a new engine and other things). We were just friends at the time, but she liked me. She was down at that shop several times a week "helping" me with my car project. Since we've been married, almost all our home projects are things we do together, including a lot of the work on the boat rebuild.

[flipz96]

You can rent (for free!) a steering wheel puller (or use a 3/4 arm puller) from any Oreilly or Autozone.

I removed the setscrew underneath and have a gear puller. Anything else holding it in place? Just dont want to break the steering if i dont have to. Just more force?

I dont know about you guys, but every time I remove or take something apart, I want to upgrade the part ( ie. Helm upholstery, gauges, steering, etc.) i might have a problem!

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[flipz96]

Agreed. My wife has always been like that. Back when I was 15, her Dad owned a automotive repair business. The summer prior to driving I got to work at his shop getting my car ready (had to put in a new engine and other things). We were just friends at the time, but she liked me. She was down at that shop several times a week "helping" me with my car project. Since we've been married, almost all our home projects are things we do together, including a lot of the work on the boat rebuild.

Thats awesome man! I need to put a ring on it. I sense a little jealously from my side girl "Mariah!" :)

[lmnelson86]

I removed the setscrew underneath and have a gear puller. Anything else holding it in place? Just dont want to break the steering if i dont have to. Just more force?

I dont know about you guys, but every time I remove or take something apart, I want to upgrade the part ( ie. Helm upholstery, gauges, steering, etc.) i might have a problem!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15402[/ATTACH

Youre not alone, I have the same problem. I cant leave anything alone!

[leetudor]

Just leave the helm attached and remove the cable.

[flipz96]

I left the puller on the steering wheel and went back to work. I went by after work and it popped off itself with no damage to the steering wheel. Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be popping off the cap this weekend.

[suprasaltareaud]

I've just repaired a soft spot. Fortunately underneath is still dry with not much rot. Think I will be attacking full cap off repair in my winter (6 months). Will follow with great anticipation.

[flipz96]

I labeled all the cut wires, but I'm still a little nervous about rewiring this thing. Since I'll be doing some repair to the deck and get adding another coat of gel coat, I removed the windshields. I also took out the built in cooler tub. I don't think I'm going to replace it. I have a cooler that fits in there, but only without the lid. I may just put in a receiver guide to keep it from moving around.

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[flipz96]

Here are a couple more pics. I started pulling up the carpet, took out the gas tank, and disconnected the steering cable from the rudder to get it out of the way. I can feel the thin laminate pull up from the soft rotten floors. The bow floor was pretty bad. Taking measurements, pulling the floor and foam tomorrow.

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[suprasaltareaud]

Your lucky you have an undercover area to work and store the interior. Looks like a great start. The hard part (making tje decision and starting) is the hard part. Well done and good luck.

[flipz96]

Your lucky you have an undercover area to work and store the interior. Looks like a great start. The hard part (making tje decision and starting) is the hard part. Well done and good luck.

Thanks! I'm VERY lucky to have access to what I do.

[chris young]

There was a boat mold in one of the shots, what's up with that?

[flipz96]

There was a boat mold in one of the shots, what's up with that?

Thats a hull mold of a boat no longer in production. My company bought an old boat building facility. We provide tooling (molds) for most of the major boat manufacturers.

[lmnelson86]

Man I am sure glad I am past the phase of removing the old floor and foam. I am not putting the cooler or driver recessed floor pan in. Just two more things to leak or break, I'll pass!

Looks good so far man. Don't forget to take more pics than you think you'll need. I thought I took a ton but I wish I took more for reference. It's easy to get caught up in tearing S-hit apart and not documenting it.

I just got done test fitting my motor, everything's good to go. Hope to have the floor done by next Sunday.

[flipz96]

I took all the measurements of the floor layout features and the engine mount area. I created a little jig for where the furthest fwd engine mount screw locations. I referenced the edge of the strut and a point on the jig with a liner dimension since that will be staying on the hull.

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Also started pulling the floor and foam. Looks like we have another full day of pulling out soaked foam. Thats my awesome girlfriend getting down and dirty! Well kind of...we had coveralls, p100 masks, and gloves to keep most of the fiberglass dust and mud away. =)

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[flipz96]

Man I am sure glad I am past the phase of removing the old floor and foam. I am not putting the cooler or driver recessed floor pan in. Just two more things to leak or break, I'll pass!

Looks good so far man. Don't forget to take more pics than you think you'll need. I thought I took a ton but I wish I took more for reference. It's easy to get caught up in tearing S-hit apart and not documenting it.

I just got done test fitting my motor, everything's good to go. Hope to have the floor done by next Sunday.


Thanks man! You are close to the finish line my friend. I'm taking stringer measurements tomorrow since I got most of the floor out. I agree with you. I am not putting the floor pan either.

[Okie Boarder]

Lots of rot...reminds me of mine.

[lmnelson86]

Thanks man! You are close to the finish line my friend. I'm taking stringer measurements tomorrow since I got most of the floor out. I agree with you. I am not putting the floor pan either.


Good idea on the 2x4 box to retain the dimensions in the motor box area. I should have taken more time in that area with measurements, but its easy to get on a roll while removing stuff and forget to stop. I ended up getting it just about right, and there is plenty of play in the motor mounts anyway. I did a test fit of the motor yesterday and its just about perfect. Looking forward to getting the floor cut out, glassed, and installed soon!

Your boat looks good, have fun!

[lmnelson86]

Hey do you think you could do me a favor and tell me or take a picture of where the driver seat mounted to the floor? Or show me a measurement? My seat was already removed and that part of the floor torn apart when I got my boat. I am reinforcing underneath my seat, and want to put it in the correct spot. Judging by the looks of your photos, I may be placing the extra wood too far forward.

Thanks!

[flipz96]

Hey do you think you could do me a favor and tell me or take a picture of where the driver seat mounted to the floor? Or show me a measurement? My seat was already removed and that part of the floor torn apart when I got my boat. I am reinforcing underneath my seat, and want to put it in the correct spot. Judging by the looks of your photos, I may be placing the extra wood too far forward.

Thanks!

I already have the floors removed, but you can see where the floor pan indention is at the top of the picture. The floor pan begin about 15" forward of the engine mount notch/recess. If I had to guess, the middle of the seat would be at that notch. I'm going to reinforce that whole area. If you need a measurement from the transom, I can do it tomorrow.

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[flipz96]

When I bought the boat, it had a slightly bent rudder. While its out of commision and I have the gas tank out, its a good time to have it repaired. I removed the cotter pin, arm bolt, and key. I used a sledge hammer and socket to try to move the rudder out. I was careful with not damaging or "mushrooming" the top of the rudder shaft. I got it pretty far down, but it doesn't seem to want to come all the way out. It is free and clear from the prop guard so thats not the issue. Am I missing something?

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[Ptownkid]

I remember mine getting stuck on my saltare as well...I think I might have brought it back up and sanded the shaft a bit, used lots of WD40 and a hardwood dowel in the hole to beat on.

[flipz96]

I remember mine getting stuck on my saltare as well...I think I might have brought it back up and sanded the shaft a bit, used lots of WD40 and a hardwood dowel in the hole to beat on.

Thanks! I think I'm going to have to do that too!

[flipz96]

I finally got all of the foam out and the portside stringers out. I'm still working on the measuring and cutting the portside main longitudinal stringer. I left in the starboard side for reference. Once I sure it up, I'll mirror cut out the remainder of the stringers and mirror over. I forgot the thickness of the floors. Were they 3/8?...1/2? Still no luck with the rudder. I've pushed it back up and even sanded the upper shaft where there was a possibility of "mushrooming" and sprayed a ton of WD40.

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[lmnelson86]

Floors are 1/2" Just started cutting mine tonight. They'll get one layer of 1.5 oz mat on the bottom, and two layers of 1708 on top. Don't be afraid to cut the entire lip of the floor off, it'll be easier to work with and set your floor as close to the side as possible. I kept mine for a while for reference, but then completely removed the remaining lip. Looks way cleaner and it will all be uniform when done. Marl it accordingly, however you prefer. You can still see where it was even once its all removed and sanded/ground flush, so no worries there. Boat looks good! You're making quick progress.

[flipz96]

Floors are 1/2" Just started putting mine tonight.

Thanks man! Can't wait to see the update!

[flipz96]

I've just repaired a soft spot. Fortunately underneath is still dry with not much rot. Think I will be attacking full cap off repair in my winter (6 months). Will follow with great anticipation.

I'm jealous. I wish I could get away with that.

[lmnelson86]

Flips, you didn't happen to take a measurement of the placement of the two rectanglur holes cut in the floor where the cables and wire harness pass through, did you? I can't seem to find that dimension in my notes. I have pictures but want to be more accurate. I'm going to make a trip to measure my top deck this weekend, but thought you may have an answer.

How's your boat coming along? Im excited to see your progress, seems you've been moving quickly. I'm def Interested to see another restored Mariah!

[flipz96]

Flips, you didn't happen to take a measurement of the placement of the two rectanglur holes cut in the floor where the cables and wire harness pass through, did you? I can't seem to find that dimension in my notes. I have pictures but want to be more accurate. I'm going to make a trip to measure my top deck this weekend, but thought you may have an answer.

How's your boat coming along? Im excited to see your progress, seems you've been moving quickly. I'm def Interested to see another restored Mariah!


I actually didn't take dimensions for that. I do know the width of it was just wide enough to have the the wire housing (pipe) to pass though. I just remember it was tight. The location on the floor is right where the built in cooler is and just inside of the longitudinal stringer. I will be working on it tomorrow so I'll see if there are any other references.


As far as progress on the boat, I have changed directions as far as material. Although I already bought the lumber, I decided to go with wood free stringers. I will be using a mix of 2" thick Nida Core, 3/4" divinycell, and various density foams blocks (I have access to scrap between 2lb and 30lb) for the bulkheads.

[lmnelson86]

I actually didn't take dimensions for that. I do know the width of it was just wide enough to have the the wire housing (pipe) to pass though. I just remember it was tight. The location on the floor is right where the built in cooler is and just inside of the longitudinal stringer. I will be working on it tomorrow so I'll see if there are any other references.


As far as progress on the boat, I have changed directions as far as material. Although I already bought the lumber, I decided to go with wood free stringers. I will be using a mix of 2" thick Nida Core, 3/4" divinycell, and various density foams blocks (I have access to scrap between 2lb and 30lb) for the bulkheads.

I am very interested to see how that turns out! If I had access to those materials I would give them a try as well. Maybe on the next project. Yeah if you think of it, let me know on those dimensions. I have a bunch of pictures so I remember the size, just want to double check locations.

[flipz96]

I am very interested to see how that turns out! If I had access to those materials I would give them a try as well. Maybe on the next project. Yeah if you think of it, let me know on those dimensions. I have a bunch of pictures so I remember the size, just want to double check locations.

From where the deck meets the hull at the bow, the center of the cooler splace is about 63".



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[lmnelson86]

Awesome man, thank you!

A recommendation, since I am fighting with this today: When you install your main center stringers, be sure to bolt the ski pylon back in with the bottom 2 bolts. Use the side attachment points of the pylon to clamp your stringers to while they cure to the hull. I measured twice or more, but my stringers are a little out of square in that area and I'll have to do some massaging with the torch to get the bracket squared up with the stringers. Other than that, the stringers on my boat are fine. I would just pay attention to the area where the pylon bolts up to save some hassle down the road when re-installing it.

[flipz96]

Awesome man, thank you!

A recommendation, since I am fighting with this today: When you install your main center stringers, be sure to bolt the ski pylon back in with the bottom 2 bolts. Use the side attachment points of the pylon to clamp your stringers to while they cure to the hull. I measured twice or more, but my stringers are a little out of square in that area and I'll have to do some massaging with the torch to get the bracket squared up with the stringers. Other than that, the stringers on my boat are fine. I would just pay attention to the area where the pylon bolts up to save some hassle down the road when re-installing it.


When I bought my boat, the pylon was already removed. I think the only critical area is the motor well. Let me know if you run into anything else. Thanks man!

[flipz96]

Progress has been pretty slow, but I'm getting there. I am using high density tooling board (30lb foam) for the motor well area and the nida core for the rest of the main longitudinals. I have them embedded into the hull using spraycore 2000. I still have to work on the outside stringers and bulkheads. I am still hesitant to remove the starboard stringers until I have the portside completely done. I should be ready for glass by next weekend.

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[flipz96]

Progress has been pretty slow, but I'm getting there. I am using high density tooling board (30lb foam) for the motor well area and the nida core for the rest of the main longitudinals. I have them embedded into the hull using spraycore 2000. I still have to work on the outside stringers and bulkheads. I am still hesitant to remove the starboard stringers until I have the portside completely done. I should be ready for glass by next weekend.

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[lmnelson86]

Looks good man, you're making quick progress. I bet that's way easier to handle instead of using 2x12s. Humping that stuff around by myself definitely slowed things down. I wouldn't be worried about taking the other stringers out, the boat will barely move as long as your trailer is decent. Mine didn't move at all, I kept a pretty good eye on it and I straight up gutted my boat

[wotan2525]

That foam is interesting and it seems like you know what you're doing. How does it compare in cost to wood?

[flipz96]

That foam is interesting and it seems like you know what you're doing. How does it compare in cost to wood?

Its pretty expensive material. About $1K for a sheet of 3'x7'x 6". Luckily, I was able to get my hands on some scrap. Otherwise, I would have used wood.

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The compression strength is considerably higher than wood. Douglas Fir for example is about 400 psi. This high density foam tooling board is 2,185 psi @ 75° and 1,384 psi @ 160°.

[flipz96]

Looks good man, you're making quick progress. I bet that's way easier to handle instead of using 2x12s. Humping that stuff around by myself definitely slowed things down. I wouldn't be worried about taking the other stringers out, the boat will barely move as long as your trailer is decent. Mine didn't move at all, I kept a pretty good eye on it and I straight up gutted my boat

Its ALOT easier to move around. I'm not too worried about things moving around. I'm more concerned with losing true height and forward/aft locations for the engine well. Once I finalize all the bulkheads and longitudinals, I'll excavate the starboard side and floor tab lip.

[wotan2525]

Its pretty expensive material. About $1K for a sheet of 3'x7'x 6".

OUCH! That's insane.....

What is it usually used for? Not a lot of room for eff-ups with that kind of price.

[flipz96]

OUCH! That's insane.....

What is it usually used for? Not a lot of room for eff-ups with that kind of price.

My company provides fiberglass tooling (plugs, molds, temp molds, and glass masters) for most of the major boat manufacturers. Size, complexity, and time would determine what material we use. Larger plug like hulls and decks, we use EPS, styroshield, glass, and spraycore. We would use that tooling board for block layouts that get cut on a 5 Axis CNC router.

[flipz96]

Had a little time after work to cut out the starboard outer stringers and part of the starboard main longitudinal.

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[lmnelson86]

Had a little time after work to cut out the starboard outer stringers and part of the starboard main longitudinal.

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Coming along quickly! Seems like your boat is in a lot better shape than mine, mine was just plain old nasty inside and under the floor. It was wet everywhere, I would even have to stop cutting the stringers so I didn't get electrocuted because water was flowing out of the stringers that badly. Then I would have to vacuum it all up and start over. The stringers that my exhaust tubes went through didn't even exist anymore, just a little bit of the fiberglass shell was left.

Any chance you'll vacuum bag your boat since you probably have the resources? I know I sure as hell would have if I could have.

[flipz96]

Coming along quickly! Seems like your boat is in a lot better shape than mine, mine was just plain old nasty inside and under the floor. It was wet everywhere, I would even have to stop cutting the stringers so I didn't get electrocuted because water was flowing out of the stringers that badly. Then I would have to vacuum it all up and start over. The stringers that my exhaust tubes went through didn't even exist anymore, just a little bit of the fiberglass shell was left.

Any chance you'll vacuum bag your boat since you probably have the resources? I know I sure as hell would have if I could have.

It was pretty muddy when I first started. Once I realized that I was removing all the stringers, I drilled holes in them to let dry out a little. I also threw the debris from sanding the foam blocks and saw dust to soak up any remainder. It was still a little wet in there...just not as bad.

I probably wont vacuum bag the stringers. I might however vacuum bag the floors. The Airex T90 I have access to is 3/4" thick. So I'll have to offset my stringer height to accommodate that. I'm still deciding what I'm going to use for the floor. It would be nice to have wood free stringers and floors but its really not necessary. The more I think about it, it really just needs to be properly encapsulated (as you are doing) to get the job done. Using all this lightweight material is going to require me to buy more ballast since I don't have the weight of the wood and soaked foam.

[Salty87]

Using all this lightweight material is going to require me to buy more ballast since I don't have the weight of the wood and soaked foam.

Your rebuild is definitely setting the bar higher. I'm looking forward to watching.

Have you thought of creating some tank spaces for under-floor ballast? Seems like you've got better supplies than those of us who had to settle for wooden stringers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYJ85CEc2Sw

[lmnelson86]

Your rebuild is definitely setting the bar higher. I'm looking forward to watching.

Have you thought of creating some tank spaces for under-floor ballast? Seems like you've got better supplies than those of us who had to settle for wooden stringers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYJ85CEc2Sw

Now that is cool. That's a great idea for filling your ballast! Simple and genius

[flipz96]

Your rebuild is definitely setting the bar higher. I'm looking forward to watching.

Have you thought of creating some tank spaces for under-floor ballast? Seems like you've got better supplies than those of us who had to settle for wooden stringers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYJ85CEc2Sw

That is a good idea. I'm am very hesitant to cut those big inlets in the transom and the ones on the sheer. I also have a really short freeboard and there wouldn't be room for a swim platform on my boat using that system. There actually isn't much usable space under the deck. The only place I can get a bag underneath would be in the bow and built in cooler area.

[flipz96]

I chopped 1.5 oz on both sides of a test panel of Airex T90. Its pretty strong and light. I was thinking about vacuum bagging, but it would be a lot faster to chop.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0467_zpsbd8504b4.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0467_zpsbd8504b4.jpg.html)

I also removed my swim platform to get access to the transom boards. I plan on moving the outer brackets closer to make room for an actuator for a surf tab.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0468_zps84534e91.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0468_zps84534e91.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0475_zps6246fa12.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0475_zps6246fa12.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I had one dull sounding spot on the portside outboard bottom corner. I am replacing them with 2" Coosa board and cut it to shape. I made them a little bigger to accommodate the moving of the swim platform brackets. All others were solid. I am going to go ahead and replace the starboard side even it was solid. I am keeping the top ones original. I have still have quite a bit of grinding to do before the mount and glass these in.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0469_zps916e130f.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0469_zps916e130f.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0470_zps8c91ee96.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0470_zps8c91ee96.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0472_zpsa007a4e0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0472_zpsa007a4e0.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0474_zpsbce2f7bd.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0474_zpsbce2f7bd.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

Looks good man, your boat is definitely leaps and bounds cleaner and drier than mine! Are you replacing the center of the transom or no?

[flipz96]

Looks good man, your boat is definitely leaps and bounds cleaner and drier than mine! Are you replacing the center of the transom or no?

Thanks! I'm not replacing the center one. Its pretty solid. The starboard transom board was actually solid but I decided to stay symmetrical. It was dry as I expected when removed. I had some good progress today and will continue tomorrow. I'll post some pictures tomorrow night!

[TitanTn]

It just goes to show that there's not just one way to rebuild these boats. I know when I started I was concerned about doing something "wrong." I learned as I dug in that it's not hard to do it better than the manufacturer did in the 80s.

[flipz96]

I forgot to mention, I am using a mix of 1.5 oz csm, 1708, 3400, and 3610. Most it is scrap from previous projects. The resin will be using for this is a vinyl ester.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0442_zps04e4a2b6.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0442_zps04e4a2b6.jpg.html)

I drilled holes in the coosa board and resin coated it.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0550_zps63e4fd5e.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0550_zps63e4fd5e.jpg.html)

I created the "peanut butter" (resin, cut up csm, and cabosil) and used it to smooth out the transom before putting the 1.5 oz csm, then the coosa boards in place.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0551_zpsbead8050.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0551_zpsbead8050.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0553_zps5ce606c9.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0553_zps5ce606c9.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0544_zps994aaa9f.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0544_zps994aaa9f.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0546_zps3fa37373.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0546_zps3fa37373.jpg.html)

Usually a big c clamp is used to apply pressure which I didn't have access to. I just used screws with washers and drilled from the swim platform holes to draw it back to the transom.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0545_zps2401a6cd.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0545_zps2401a6cd.jpg.html)

I simply used duck tape to cap off the nida core stinger tops. Any extra resin I have from a batch, I pour on the outside of the stringers to help create a natural fillet. I create it anyways using the "peanut butter", but every little bit helps.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0547_zpse751e683.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0547_zpse751e683.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I finally removed the forward keel stringer. Since I couldn't get all the way down with the diamond cutter. I found it easier to cut it down the middle with the diamond to peel back the glass on each side and cut what you can then cut the wood. Getting most of the wood out will give you room to take the diamond cutter close to the hull then pry the rest of the wood out. As I got closer to the bow the wood was good so I left the top part attached. Everything will be fully encapsulated so it should be fine.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0548_zps6415f59d.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0548_zps6415f59d.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0554_zps9257cd97.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0554_zps9257cd97.jpg.html)

I packed several layers of 1.5 csm in the keel and topped it with a thick layer of 3610. I will pack this with spray core and foam core which will all be sanded smooth, then add another layer of 3610. I do plan on leaving the bow area open to be able to stuff a ballast bag up there. I will put a bulkhead on the fwd side of the cooler area with limber hole to allow any water to drain into the bilge. There will be a flat area where I can place a removable cooler. The built in was made of a plastic which is really discolored and is beyond cleaning.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0555_zps5edb8252.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0555_zps5edb8252.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0556_zps6ee50f26.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0556_zps6ee50f26.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I got the outer stringers sanded down using an orbital sander to get most of it out, then followed with a belt sander. I used 1.5 oz csm over the outer stringer area to even out the surface. I will use foam core on the outer stringers. which I still need to cut to shape. The first layer of csm was used to cover the stringers that I have so far. I plan on pulling a layer of travira on the top only which is would allow the glass to hold screws. I final layer will be 3610 which is an overkill, but is better than an underkill.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0557_zps78dbfe94.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0557_zps78dbfe94.jpg.html)

[leetudor]

What is coosa board?

[flipz96]

What is coosa board?

Its an alternative to wood. Its basically foam reinforced with glass strands.

http://coosacomposites.com/products/2014-05-09-02-43-07/bluewater-panels

[leetudor]

Looks like a product that was made by Penske Composites that Tige used in their boats.

[lmnelson86]

Looking good man. I did the same thing on the transom, used screws and fender washers to suck the new pieces tight to the back. Are you going to use the OEM speedometers? I decided to not use mine since they require drilling so many holes in the transom for mounting the pickups and pass-thru fittings for the tube. I am trying to drill as few holes as possible in the boat to prevent rot. I'll probably pick up some GPS speedometers (probably just one) this summer or in the fall after I use the boat and see what I like.

[flipz96]

Looking good man. I did the same thing on the transom, used screws and fender washers to suck the new pieces tight to the back. Are you going to use the OEM speedometers?.

As of right now, I plan on using them. I bought new gauges and hoses and I plan on redoing the dash.

[flipz96]

So...I decided to remove the nub of wood that I initially left in the bow keel. I just didn't sit well with me after all I'm doing to remove all wood from this boat. I did the same as the lower. Several layers of csm, layer of 3610, spraycore, and another layer of 3610. It should be stronger than before. I am also going to leave that area open to make room for ballast underneath instead of on the bow seats.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0573_zpscb39ef34.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0573_zpscb39ef34.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I was lucky enough to grab scraps of Prisma Preforms from a 50+' project we are working on. These are basically closed cell 2lb foam wrapped in in 24 oz glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0478_zpsd3d248c6.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0478_zpsd3d248c6.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0480_zpse45bbad3.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0480_zpse45bbad3.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I am using these beams as for my outer stringers and wings. I still have to make my wedges to the shape of the deck. I'll glass these in first. The main longitudinal stringers and any wedges that will be receiving screws from securing the deck will have a layer of trevira glassed in to do be able to do so.

Here is my dry fit layout. To get a good bond to the hull, I am using a 36 grit sander to scuff the contact areas. I am also laying down a 2 oz csm to embed these preforms. All the stringers will be covered with a final layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0566_zps64b63ed1.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0566_zps64b63ed1.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0568_zps91e8c6ec.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0568_zps91e8c6ec.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0569_zps1c155c4d.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0569_zps1c155c4d.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0570_zpsed18f132.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0570_zpsed18f132.jpg.html)

[Hagman]

Does anyone know where I can find a couple of the mufflers shown in this picture
I am using these beams as for my outer stringers and wings. I still have to make my wedges to the shape of the deck. I'll glass these in first. The main longitudinal stringers and any wedges that will be receiving screws from securing the deck will have a layer of trevira glassed in to do be able to do so.

Here is my dry fit layout. To get a good bond to the hull, I am using a 36 grit sander to scuff the contact areas. I am also laying down a 2 oz csm to embed these preforms. All the stringers will be covered with a final layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0566_zps64b63ed1.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0566_zps64b63ed1.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0568_zps91e8c6ec.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0568_zps91e8c6ec.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0569_zps1c155c4d.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0569_zps1c155c4d.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0570_zpsed18f132.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0570_zpsed18f132.jpg.html)

[Salty87]

This rebuild rocks!...well, they all do but the materials you have access to is awesome. I contacted Prisma before starting mine but couldn't figure out what the project needed. It's great to see someone using this stuff.

[lmnelson86]

This is awesome. I wish I had the access to these materials, this looks great! Can't wait to see more.

[flipz96]

Thanks guys! I'm very lucky to have access to these material. To be honest, from where I am now with the build and what I originally planned, its ALOT different. There are a hundred ways to accomplish the same thing. As more different types of scrap become available, it changes my plan from week to week so my efficiency on the project isn't that great. Using the preforms changed my plans a bit, but I think it will be worth it. The boat will be alot lighter which will require less flotation and to have the flotation built into the stringers is awesome.

[lmnelson86]

I like that you opted to remove the bow keel stringer. Had You been doing your build before me, I may have done the same. The idea never occurred to me until after I posted the completed stringer on here. Oh well. I have never driven my boat so I am not familiar with how I am going to place the ballast, if I use any at all. I am sure I will but I can always modify the boat for ballast in the future. I am just excited to have something to drive around and use again

[flipz96]

I like that you opted to remove the bow keel stringer. Had You been doing your build before me, I may have done the same. The idea never occurred to me until after I posted the completed stringer on here. Oh well. I have never driven my boat so I am not familiar with how I am going to place the ballast, if I use any at all. I am sure I will but I can always modify the boat for ballast in the future. I am just excited to have something to drive around and use again

I can definitely understand the excitement of getting this done and being out on the water. It can be cut out after the cap is on. Might be a PITA, but it can be done.

[flipz96]

I was able to glass in the beams this evening. I just need to "peanut butter" the joints and any voids before I add a layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/IMG_0577_zpsd967e661.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/IMG_0577_zpsd967e661.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I test fit floors before I layed up 2 oz csm on each side.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/65A3061D-9632-41F1-AAA5-F17BDAB6AE14_zps8duvwtpr.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/65A3061D-9632-41F1-AAA5-F17BDAB6AE14_zps8duvwtpr.jpg.html)

Glassed the 1st side.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3EF7DB21-E6A4-4BDC-BE70-9120F90FDFB7_zpszwvrveaa.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3EF7DB21-E6A4-4BDC-BE70-9120F90FDFB7_zpszwvrveaa.jpg.html)

Picture of glassed untrimmed floors. I ran out of time so I have to trim and cut in the bilge inspection hatch.


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/69D85878-84E5-44FE-BC02-DB2E9EF24926_zpsd5b3osnt.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/69D85878-84E5-44FE-BC02-DB2E9EF24926_zpsd5b3osnt.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/1FB2D1A3-D8CD-4F59-B3BB-1767B123CF63_zpsvaall9t4.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/1FB2D1A3-D8CD-4F59-B3BB-1767B123CF63_zpsvaall9t4.jpg.html)

After trimming I will tab/tape to the stringers and hull, then do a layer of 1708.

[suprasaltareaud]

Looking fantastic. You have done the hard part. The area you dont see. Now take pleasure in the rest which will be visible. Will be the lightest Supra out there.

What material did you decide on for the floors? Marine ply? What thickness is it?

[flipz96]

Looking fantastic. You have done the hard part. The area you dont see. Now take pleasure in the rest which will be visible. Will be the lightest Supra out there.

What material did you decide on for the floors? Marine ply? What thickness is it?

Thanks! I am using 3/4" airex t90 foam. I had to adjust my stringer height to compensate for the thicker floor. I wish I was able to get a weight before I started. Here the link for the structural foam: http://www.3accorematerials.com/en/products/airex/airexreg-t90.html

[lmnelson86]

Looking good, cant wait to see it once its all done. Are you going to use carpet again?

[flipz96]

Looking good, cant wait to see it once its all done. Are you going to use carpet again?

Thanks man. I am putting new carpet it. I had plans last year to redo the floors so I already have carpet in storage waiting to be installed. This was way before I even knew about what was going on underneath!

[lmnelson86]

Ha, nothing like a good surprise!

Yea dude, you should totally paint your boat. It'll be badass and now is the perfect time. You know you'll kick yourself later for not doing it while the boat is apart! Besides, with the access you have to your facilities its a no brainer!

I am going to hold off on redoing my interior until next year. I'm closing in on spring and I would like to use the boat to see what I like or do not like about the interior, and make adjustments next season. This way I am not wasting a perfectly new interior if I decide to make changes, be it ballast or layout of things.

[flipz96]

Ha, nothing like a good surprise!

Yea dude, you should totally paint your boat. It'll be badass and now is the perfect time. You know you'll kick yourself later for not doing it while the boat is apart! Besides, with the access you have to your facilities its a no brainer!

I am going to hold off on redoing my interior until next year. I'm closing in on spring and I would like to use the boat to see what I like or do not like about the interior, and make adjustments next season. This way I am not wasting a perfectly new interior if I decide to make changes, be it ballast or layout of things.

Man...I still have to play it by ear. Its already warm here so I'll have to see. Your boat is looking good though.

[flipz96]

I got some work done this weekend. I taped up the the exterior knuckle and laid a layer of csm and trevira on the inside knuckle. This seals all the holes previously made by the screws and rivets that secure the deck to the hull. This also provides a backing so I can secure the hull and deck without rivets.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/363E855B-4289-4DBA-AEE4-84BE30CD6B66_zpspxhc4xt5.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/363E855B-4289-4DBA-AEE4-84BE30CD6B66_zpspxhc4xt5.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/E68641F0-EFDA-4197-ABFF-086E19955423_zps4lpngpi0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/E68641F0-EFDA-4197-ABFF-086E19955423_zps4lpngpi0.jpg.html)


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/ACD3344D-1405-4383-BEDB-D8A8A62312CA_zpsn7praq3c.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/ACD3344D-1405-4383-BEDB-D8A8A62312CA_zpsn7praq3c.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/DA3296DF-2E76-4FD6-A9D7-DF7DA53C029A_zpsohgapppo.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/DA3296DF-2E76-4FD6-A9D7-DF7DA53C029A_zpsohgapppo.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I test fit the deck to check floor height and locations. I marked the locations that I will be glassing in trevira.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3E436DA2-691B-48F6-918A-7FE6B8C59D0B_zpstdmgmoll.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3E436DA2-691B-48F6-918A-7FE6B8C59D0B_zpstdmgmoll.jpg.html)

I have a crack in the aft deck at the ski locker so I have to do some repairs. I flipped the deck over to do those repairs and to replace the exposed wood backing plates.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3BA5A8C6-266E-475D-B098-5787B23857BC_zpsokzmvqyj.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/3BA5A8C6-266E-475D-B098-5787B23857BC_zpsokzmvqyj.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/8C75158A-BBF5-453E-84DA-854EDE1C50DF_zpskigghdlq.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/8C75158A-BBF5-453E-84DA-854EDE1C50DF_zpskigghdlq.jpg.html)

I will also be cutting out the forward closeouts in the bow and replacing it with a coring material to give me more storage for ballast.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/2DC62621-061C-40B5-BFAC-35C09A3ABC96_zpsm3f0vztj.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/2DC62621-061C-40B5-BFAC-35C09A3ABC96_zpsm3f0vztj.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I marked up the floor to for reference and to mark where I will be placing trevira.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/F95D56ED-422A-4C0F-8F10-B43577EB0DFF_zps1cuwnufm.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/F95D56ED-422A-4C0F-8F10-B43577EB0DFF_zps1cuwnufm.jpg.html)

I used aquaplast for the motor mount offset.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/19BB4D35-DE98-4B27-B9AD-4BA6EFF36B2D_zpsrrmb6oft.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/19BB4D35-DE98-4B27-B9AD-4BA6EFF36B2D_zpsrrmb6oft.jpg.html)

Another view of the exposed wood backing that I will be replacing with aquaplast.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/93D431D4-5C76-4A19-A643-2F5E086DF2CE_zpslhsv6st0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/93D431D4-5C76-4A19-A643-2F5E086DF2CE_zpslhsv6st0.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/224F4319-6E35-41EB-A1B1-330100D5A68D_zpsdjsqmcho.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/224F4319-6E35-41EB-A1B1-330100D5A68D_zpsdjsqmcho.jpg.html)

[suprasaltareaud]

Wow. No disrespect to any of the other restorations but that is the best resto i have ever seen. I rhink you should change the manufacture date of your boat to built in 2015. I have no doubt the quality of materials and workmanship is better than any wakeboard boat out there. If one day you decide to sell her you would be able to get absolute top dollar. If not let me know and ill buy it.
well done so far. Absolutely awesome job. I take my hat off to you.

[suprasaltareaud]

Luke, your restoration is very impressive also. You too have given me the confidence and will to attack mine. After rebuilding the motor i feel it deserves a strong and refreshed hull to match. Im nearly out of summer and things are cooling down. The time is just about right. Thanks to both of you I hace a good idea on materials and processes to use. I might ask for some guidance on the way though. Hope that's ok. Cheers guys. Jason

[suprasaltareaud]

Last thing. As far as painting is concerned your gelcoat looks to be in pretty good condition. Wouldnt a good cut, polish and wax bring her back to brand new without the extra costs of decals, paint which wont come out like gelcoat and a heap of headaches if you do try and gelcoat her?

[lmnelson86]

Luke, your restoration is very impressive also. You too have given me the confidence and will to attack mine. After rebuilding the motor i feel it deserves a strong and refreshed hull to match. Im nearly out of summer and things are cooling down. The time is just about right. Thanks to both of you I hace a good idea on materials and processes to use. I might ask for some guidance on the way though. Hope that's ok. Cheers guys. Jason

Jason, thanks very much! It has been a fun project. You should have no worries in restoring your boat, its easy and there is plenty of information on here. It just takes time.
Flipz - lookin good. I have to reinforce my top deck for a tower, so Ill be doing something similar as well.

[suprasaltareaud]

How are you planning on securing top to bottom without rivets?

[flipz96]

Last thing. As far as painting is concerned your gelcoat looks to be in pretty good condition. Wouldnt a good cut, polish and wax bring her back to brand new without the extra costs of decals, paint which wont come out like gelcoat and a heap of headaches if you do try and gelcoat her?

Yeah...my gelcoat isn't bad at all and the wrap is still in good shape. So I might ride it out for a couple years. I have to do some minor repair on the aft deck ski locker, but I can get a good gelcoat match. There are a lot of things I want to do, but don't have the time to do it since the warm weather is already here.


How are you planning on securing top to bottom without rivets?

The trevira that I lined the inside of the hull knuckle provides a good backing that receives screws similar to wood.

[flipz96]

This is a close up of the aquaplast that I used for the engine mount. I will be using this for cleats for the removable floor and the center walk through just forward of the engine.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/0DBB08CE-9E25-43F3-96A7-50079FB23E70_zpspequhken.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/0DBB08CE-9E25-43F3-96A7-50079FB23E70_zpspequhken.jpg.html)

I put in 6 limber tubes for stringer drainage...just in case. I taped up one side (to keep the resin out of it), used thickened resin to "peanut butter" them in, and all I need to do is cut them flush after it sets.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/870EA9F2-60DE-4107-8D29-BDF990D5B838_zpsthhjbtdw.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/870EA9F2-60DE-4107-8D29-BDF990D5B838_zpsthhjbtdw.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/4A05ED82-91DA-459A-AA0E-CA9A80D10877_zpsnu1mejlc.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/4A05ED82-91DA-459A-AA0E-CA9A80D10877_zpsnu1mejlc.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/E9743185-3701-47C5-B4AF-C252D7289A9F_zpsaorefcxa.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/E9743185-3701-47C5-B4AF-C252D7289A9F_zpsaorefcxa.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

That looks awesome. I should have done the same thing with the PVC I the limber holes, but I didn't think of it til after the fact. Oh well. I thought about fiberglassing the back side of the hull where all the holes are, so I have fresh material to screw into. Maybe I will still do that before I put her back together. It cant hurt...maybe Ill go pick up some fiberglass tape today.

[flipz96]

I thought about fiberglassing the back side of the hull where all the holes are, so I have fresh material to screw into. Maybe I will still do that before I put her back together. It cant hurt...maybe Ill go pick up some fiberglass tape today.

Fiberglass itself don't hold screws very well which is why they use alot of rivets. Trevira looks and feels similar to a thick felt and hardens like a thin piece of wood when soaked in resin. If I didn't have access to the trevira I would resin coat a test piece of felt from the fabric store. Let it cure and drive a screw in it. I would imagine it would a have the same effect.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/CAFEDD2A-ACD2-482C-9FC1-2F6DDA918EFF_zpstkn4gyey.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/CAFEDD2A-ACD2-482C-9FC1-2F6DDA918EFF_zpstkn4gyey.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I stuffed most of the voids between the sole and stringer with this 2lb closed cell foam that I cut to shape. This was scrap foam from a 53' boat stringer build.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02/F96E0895-E18B-46FE-8EE2-49B4A68EBE5D_zpsobxivemr.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-02/F96E0895-E18B-46FE-8EE2-49B4A68EBE5D_zpsobxivemr.jpg.html)

I used PL glue and screws to secure the floors to the stringers. I mainly used the PL glue to "sure up" the tops of the stringers to ensure good contact. The sub floor was stuffed good with the shaped 2 lb foam so that they also provide support. I also "taped" in the sides using foam chamfers and 2 layers of 2 oz csm and taped in the inner floor to the main stringers using a layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/34050FE8-4D5C-4C42-92D9-2CC87EA35BA1_zps3nlk5ub4.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/34050FE8-4D5C-4C42-92D9-2CC87EA35BA1_zps3nlk5ub4.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/90877B36-70C6-4BF6-8481-F0E9562443A3_zpsfrp30mzg.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/90877B36-70C6-4BF6-8481-F0E9562443A3_zpsfrp30mzg.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/3C441C4E-1A2A-4511-A3B0-958B0DFCC83B_zpsqdr21m19.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/3C441C4E-1A2A-4511-A3B0-958B0DFCC83B_zpsqdr21m19.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I also added aquaplast cleats underneath the forward center walk through panel for additional support. There is also an aquaplast backing on the the other side of the stringer. These will get glassed in. I will do the same for the aft removable floor.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/BA34AC58-12E1-43A9-9F9F-EE5348C39BC1_zpsn5jcz48c.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/BA34AC58-12E1-43A9-9F9F-EE5348C39BC1_zpsn5jcz48c.jpg.html)

I forgot to mention a while back that the forward center panel had additional coring glassed to them for more rigidity.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/F2887D6B-176C-4303-A031-1E64DF9AAD92_zpsgweokwna.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/F2887D6B-176C-4303-A031-1E64DF9AAD92_zpsgweokwna.jpg.html)

My rear blower ducting was in bad shape. It broke and at the bottom and some of the flanging came of.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/B913B60F-FD42-4932-8A4D-F2DA11F64C39_zpswv1fplgd.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/B913B60F-FD42-4932-8A4D-F2DA11F64C39_zpswv1fplgd.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/2699FC0A-5548-4C78-85AA-5E115C4F4BE5_zpshauv2luj.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/2699FC0A-5548-4C78-85AA-5E115C4F4BE5_zpshauv2luj.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

The aft floors were a little jagged due to sanding so to "sure it up", I waxed two pieces of wood, laid the glass, screwed the wood to the removable floor land, and used the roller to massage the resin and glass to the hard edge. I let it cure, pulled up the wood, and it worked out perfect.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/AB49ECDE-F4D1-4CE1-A884-68CF95569BC3_zpstm1rlwyz.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/AB49ECDE-F4D1-4CE1-A884-68CF95569BC3_zpstm1rlwyz.jpg.html)

The floor gets another two layers of 1708.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/C002F88D-154A-4FAB-872C-1B57DEDF00EA_zpszhudnqt8.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/C002F88D-154A-4FAB-872C-1B57DEDF00EA_zpszhudnqt8.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/FCD6C723-3256-441A-A167-C5117B3590C3_zps3x7wbxbp.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/FCD6C723-3256-441A-A167-C5117B3590C3_zps3x7wbxbp.jpg.html)

I just need to do a final light sand and and paint the bilge and the motor is ready to be dropped. I already precut the carpet. The floor is pretty solid.

[TitanTn]

Pretty solid? I don't know anything about a lot of these materials, but it looks bullet proof. And it's got to be hundreds of pounds lighter than the original.

[flipz96]

Pretty solid? I don't know anything about a lot of these materials, but it looks bullet proof. And it's got to be hundreds of pounds lighter than the original.

Thanks! It definitely will. Can't wait to be done!

[flipz96]

I painted the floors, bilge, and transom with bilge paint. Since fiberglass isn't technically water proof, I used this as a barrier coat. I added flakes to the areas that may be exposed. Once this dries, I will glue in the carpet.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/60369AAF-660D-4710-9487-A8D38C8FF13D_zpsms1uyvx0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/60369AAF-660D-4710-9487-A8D38C8FF13D_zpsms1uyvx0.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/1B4687DD-1294-416B-AAFA-92344437D7F5_zps8ai0h7hu.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/1B4687DD-1294-416B-AAFA-92344437D7F5_zps8ai0h7hu.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/10DC6ED0-F610-4063-87F9-38BABF0501F8_zpsaahjn3tb.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/10DC6ED0-F610-4063-87F9-38BABF0501F8_zpsaahjn3tb.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I got the motor dropped in.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/0796C8A3-F473-4418-9EAE-C786468875A5_zpshzjkqwu2.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/0796C8A3-F473-4418-9EAE-C786468875A5_zpshzjkqwu2.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/3F3962A9-06D9-4072-A9DB-C21F49B361D1_zpskby2rfa1.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/3F3962A9-06D9-4072-A9DB-C21F49B361D1_zpskby2rfa1.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

Bow bulkheads/closeouts were removed. They will be replaced with a couple layers of travira and glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/4E41FC4D-91F7-4415-B21A-C9832006E00B_zpsy3jyszai.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/4E41FC4D-91F7-4415-B21A-C9832006E00B_zpsy3jyszai.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/6D2694D5-733B-43FA-B68F-E966306EAA3A_zpsxno8qofe.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/6D2694D5-733B-43FA-B68F-E966306EAA3A_zpsxno8qofe.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/278F4E0F-F177-4B5B-AF6A-F05F9CE764E7_zpse9xnuz6i.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/278F4E0F-F177-4B5B-AF6A-F05F9CE764E7_zpse9xnuz6i.jpg.html)

My girlfriend helped removing the exposed wood. This will be replaced with trevira and 3/4" aquaplast where the tower mounts.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/94FC061F-D7AB-49DB-AFDA-0C8183FF857E_zpsqccz0l5o.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/94FC061F-D7AB-49DB-AFDA-0C8183FF857E_zpsqccz0l5o.jpg.html)

[bens250ex]

This is a job well done! WIsh i could have done mine all composite, you are very lucky to have those resources available!

[lmnelson86]

This boat is going to be awesome, looking great. I love all of the composite work as well.

[Okie Boarder]

Looking good.

[flipz96]

Here's another close up of the area that will be exposed when lifting the cushions, engine box, etc.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/33F7D5D7-4460-44F2-BAAB-181AD920486B_zpsgeais80d.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/33F7D5D7-4460-44F2-BAAB-181AD920486B_zpsgeais80d.jpg.html)

I laid up some trevira where the bow closeouts used to be. I'll add another layer of glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/98AD20DB-197D-47FF-B603-0CACD1F589F0_zpsrcjpdwra.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/98AD20DB-197D-47FF-B603-0CACD1F589F0_zpsrcjpdwra.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/3A28E381-6767-4D63-823D-1EECBCA9DA01_zps4pkdggc2.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/3A28E381-6767-4D63-823D-1EECBCA9DA01_zps4pkdggc2.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I used PL adhesive to secure the 3/4" aquaplast where the tower mounts to the deck and used 3 clamps to hold it while it kicks. These will also get a layer of glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/BAF2C0B8-58A1-4568-8AFC-EC389F636168_zpsbzetlua1.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/BAF2C0B8-58A1-4568-8AFC-EC389F636168_zpsbzetlua1.jpg.html)

I made my removable floor with 1/2" ABS plastic. Since I was using the 3/4" (plus glass) Airex foam for my floors and once I lay the carpet, it should lay flush.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/9D70C0ED-93A1-43B9-BE93-74CFEA94BEC7_zps4tlgthic.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/9D70C0ED-93A1-43B9-BE93-74CFEA94BEC7_zps4tlgthic.jpg.html)

I also used csm on the underside of the deck knuckle. I tried not to lay heavy since there isn't much room. I still have to cut/grind the excess glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/543FCA0F-58ED-485D-B864-066742790E27_zps7a67qjjo.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/543FCA0F-58ED-485D-B864-066742790E27_zps7a67qjjo.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

Added 1/2 round foam core embedded in 1.5 oz csm and covered with 4.5 oz of csm to stiffen the playpen area.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/2D49B122-00D1-440B-9690-60197C0AA379_zpsjaf9dzpq.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/2D49B122-00D1-440B-9690-60197C0AA379_zpsjaf9dzpq.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/24063D19-01CF-44B8-9CCB-70CAB89BF43D_zpssdpc3k7c.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/24063D19-01CF-44B8-9CCB-70CAB89BF43D_zpssdpc3k7c.jpg.html)
I covered the 3/4" aquaplast backing for the tower with a layer of 1708 and csm A bit of an overkill.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/7EE604C1-412B-4D22-AB07-CC0C8FD13605_zpsndd0psky.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/7EE604C1-412B-4D22-AB07-CC0C8FD13605_zpsndd0psky.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

Finally had a chance to work on getting the rudder off. I ended up sanding the upper sides of the shaft with a DA.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/0F1F76E1-46CD-4DEA-8D72-A8F2F7D83E09_zpsdahkteuy.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/0F1F76E1-46CD-4DEA-8D72-A8F2F7D83E09_zpsdahkteuy.jpg.html)

Removed the o rings with a pick.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/ADE3A368-7D38-4AA8-83A8-0C76FC5F4D33_zps4w1fcxao.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/ADE3A368-7D38-4AA8-83A8-0C76FC5F4D33_zps4w1fcxao.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/D1374A43-087C-42BE-AA04-06BE315F8283_zpsftxcupze.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/D1374A43-087C-42BE-AA04-06BE315F8283_zpsftxcupze.jpg.html)

Test fitted the engine blower duct.


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/2015-03/22F58332-703F-4C64-B3CA-E7D5B9880E6B_zps01jttu8d.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/2015-03/22F58332-703F-4C64-B3CA-E7D5B9880E6B_zps01jttu8d.jpg.html)

[Alexoag]

Hey bud so I'm just about to really dig into mine i got the motor pulled and going to split it in half next weekend....do you think if i went down to the local boat builder in Tacoma wa they would beable to give out scraps and stuff...like what you used for your stringers?

[flipz96]

Hey bud so I'm just about to really dig into mine i got the motor pulled and going to split it in half next weekend....do you think if i went down to the local boat builder in Tacoma wa they would beable to give out scraps and stuff...like what you used for your stringers?

Its worth a shot. The worst they can tell you is no. I don't know if they use the same stringer system, but even getting scrap glass and resin would help. Good luck with your rebuild!

[flipz96]

Its been pretty busy at work and I haven't had much time to take and upload pictures lately. I'm working on a prototype surf friendly swim platform. It is made from 3/4 ply and reinforced with glass on the underside with aquaplast ribs that will land on the brackets (which I moved in closer to the exhaust to make room for a surf system). Its been resin coated, sanded, and been sprayed with black gel coat. I will be adding hydroturf to it as well. If it all works out, I'll be making an all glass platform next off season.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/9BA9E33B-D668-4325-90DB-2C36BB00642F_zpstmyfl6bf.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/9BA9E33B-D668-4325-90DB-2C36BB00642F_zpstmyfl6bf.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/5CC38731-0F98-4152-B4F0-A1E9B824E9FE_zpsy5w4ytop.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/5CC38731-0F98-4152-B4F0-A1E9B824E9FE_zpsy5w4ytop.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/BDDF641E-B8C2-44E8-B02D-31D899AA47D0_zpsvvrwuq0k.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/BDDF641E-B8C2-44E8-B02D-31D899AA47D0_zpsvvrwuq0k.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/5A41437D-D7D4-44A7-A98D-CE5E3B85A007_zpsc1j9mny9.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/5A41437D-D7D4-44A7-A98D-CE5E3B85A007_zpsc1j9mny9.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I am using the royal blue hyrdo turf and got it cut on the 3 axis.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/C86F4C54-CA02-4194-A94E-820A6D265082_zpsb5cvdniv.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C86F4C54-CA02-4194-A94E-820A6D265082_zpsb5cvdniv.jpg.html)

Here's a video of the 3 Axis cutting the Hydroturf.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/th_7423C4ED-B49E-4ADC-B365-35AC5B49B434_zps749frcop.mp4 (http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/7423C4ED-B49E-4ADC-B365-35AC5B49B434_zps749frcop.mp4)

This is a test fit before gluing.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/C7EE1EB8-765B-4E39-92D7-1F1DDB85D27D_zpstqsgvtrk.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C7EE1EB8-765B-4E39-92D7-1F1DDB85D27D_zpstqsgvtrk.jpg.html)

[TitanTn]

That really looks great. The only thing I would like is some grab holds on the outside edge.

[SquamInboards]

Looks great overall, what a great shop space you have to work on that boat.

I don't know if this has been discussed, but how did the boat steer when you drove it last? I would definitely replace the steering cable while it's already out of the boat. And if there's any play in that rudder, it would be REALLY easy to replace while you're in there. If it's nice and tight, there's no need. But mine had a little play, and it made a massive difference in how the boat handled (in terms of steering, obviously). Then again, my boat had probably 1200 hours on it when I replaced the rudder, it's now at 1533 as of last night. So... anyway I just wanted to be sure you're hitting the things that are easy while the boat is in its current state, but really hard when it's all back together. It looks like you're being extremely thorough, which is great.

[Gerald A]

Did you get the Stringer digitize ? I am doing stringers in a 1984 and would love to have the files Thanks GeraldA

[flipz96]

Progress has been at a stand still the past couple weeks. I just moved to Orlando and from moving, cleaning, painting, fixing odds and ends, I haven't had any time allocated to the boat. The only thing that I have to do really is do some touch up gel coat work and get my helm put together. I bought some new-used gauges and I am going to redo the helm faceplates.


That really looks great. The only thing I would like is some grab holds on the outside edge.
I’m definitely going to add some. I only have a heavy ¾” thickness on the sides to play with so I may do some shallow grab handles underneath, but I’m not sure yet.


Looks great overall, what a great shop space you have to work on that boat.
I don't know if this has been discussed, but how did the boat steer when you drove it last?
I am very fortunate of the resources I have to work on this thing. Steering was tight. Although if I did have any issues with the rudder, cable, etc, the removable floor would give me a decent enough access without pulling the tanks. I actually had to go in there already with the cap on. All I had to do is remove the stbd aft seat and removable floor . One arm through each access and I can reach and work on the whole assembly.

Did you get the Stringer digitize ? I am doing stringers in a 1984 and would love to have the files Thanks GeraldA
That was the original plan, but I couldn’t wait for the tracker. My stringers were in really bad shape when trying to pry them off the hull. It was all done by hand. I got lucky and it all fit back together really nicely.

[flipz96]

I finally had some time to put into getting her ready for the water. I got the new rub rail put on. I used a heat gun for the bow and corners. It also kept a small portion of the old rail insert and placed it in the receiver when making the sharp bends. It keeps the rail receiver from deforming too much where you can't get the insert to go in. I also glued down my hydroturf on prototype swim platform.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/0D838BEC-C3F8-4392-94A7-4AC3F88B83C0_zps2vdrptqj.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0D838BEC-C3F8-4392-94A7-4AC3F88B83C0_zps2vdrptqj.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/B4FBF357-F5E7-433B-AFC3-1197C5E0EE13_zpsymlz9d7t.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B4FBF357-F5E7-433B-AFC3-1197C5E0EE13_zpsymlz9d7t.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/9CB8F2A3-0CB1-4564-A4F9-51B308063514_zpsvdu1dzkt.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9CB8F2A3-0CB1-4564-A4F9-51B308063514_zpsvdu1dzkt.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

I am switching out my gauges and switches. I plan on leaving off the upholstery helm cover and making a "carbon fiber" panels. I'm switching out the push button/breaker combo to rocker switches and breakers. I will be mounting the breaker switches on the inside of the stbd walkthrough storage. I messed up my first run because my spacing was too close. Originally it started with only the two panels, but now I'm making one for the center and lower steering area. I took rough measurements, drew it up in CAD, printed, and now I have to adjust the final CAD for cutting this week. The speedometer and steering wheel holes were purposefully made larger to be able to lay flat over the gauges and steering and used the concentricity to make the adjustments.

This is my old set up:

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/61E7E3E1-F682-49C0-AD8A-E952EC383AAD_zpsfbvuge3n.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/61E7E3E1-F682-49C0-AD8A-E952EC383AAD_zpsfbvuge3n.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/B406E6E2-D6DD-406E-AEEF-098B113C9282_zpspxveuh2i.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B406E6E2-D6DD-406E-AEEF-098B113C9282_zpspxveuh2i.jpg.html)

This is the new set up. The paper and wood pattern was just a mock up for adjustments and the panels obviously have not be mounted since they are wrong. The final set will hopefully be done early this week. I still have to get a new tach. I also got a new carbon fiber steering wheel. Hopefully I'll be able to run her this weekend!

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/0F0B419A-C40B-4E69-9899-6715643E2D90_zpser1zmldj.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0F0B419A-C40B-4E69-9899-6715643E2D90_zpser1zmldj.jpg.html)

[TitanTn]

Nice panels and gauges. It's nice updated look without getting too crazy.

[flipz96]

Nice panels and gauges. It's nice updated look without getting too crazy.

Thanks! Not using the upholstery cover was an accident. I told my girlfriend to work on the gauges while I worked on the rub rail and she forgot that we ever had it in the first place. I liked the way it looked and figured that I'd offset the gauge panels to fill in the gaps. Started off with the two panels, but it looked like it was missing something...so I will be adding the middle panel to tie it all in.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Steering%20Wheel%20Panel.R04%20062815.jpg%201_zps2 hd8zit4.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Steering%20Wheel%20Panel.R04%20062815.jpg%201_zps2 hd8zit4.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

In the process of taking the boat apart, a corner of the walkthough door molding broke off. I was contemplating making a temp mold and laying up a part, but that would require more time that I don't have right now. Instead, I'm going to do a plastic repair of the areas that are cracked or missing using super glue and baking soda.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/2FA3D42B-65CD-4916-BD17-447D71D8D95C_zpsstepzrv0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2FA3D42B-65CD-4916-BD17-447D71D8D95C_zpsstepzrv0.jpg.html)

Get the part in place first.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/322DDC12-C86D-4ADA-9BD4-B3C12CD5BC40_zpsmhx5ovys.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/322DDC12-C86D-4ADA-9BD4-B3C12CD5BC40_zpsmhx5ovys.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/C838F880-BAF6-4547-9055-2962E5BC3326_zpssvof5fpw.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C838F880-BAF6-4547-9055-2962E5BC3326_zpssvof5fpw.jpg.html)

Tape up the front side to keep the glue from seeping through and fill the gaps.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/C9E55025-929E-4C59-91EE-F60F9DBC5F17_zpsmoftojlx.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C9E55025-929E-4C59-91EE-F60F9DBC5F17_zpsmoftojlx.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

It didn't turn out too bad. Just have to sand and paint. I might do another round to get it perfect..but we'll see. Its pretty strong as is.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/A3D79188-6064-44C4-A9F9-CDB9CBD4E51A_zpszakuhho4.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A3D79188-6064-44C4-A9F9-CDB9CBD4E51A_zpszakuhho4.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/080D57F6-3BDC-480E-B519-48BA7F193917_zps8hcedqqe.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/080D57F6-3BDC-480E-B519-48BA7F193917_zps8hcedqqe.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8DDAEC4F-7522-449C-B53B-8B3E6C8CCBC5_zpsqoibibgc.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8DDAEC4F-7522-449C-B53B-8B3E6C8CCBC5_zpsqoibibgc.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

That new dash looks great! Simple and clean, but definitely spruces it up! I thought of doing something similar but ran out of time haha. Where did you get your new gauges? I am looking for one GPS speedo gauge that's not a rip off. A friend of mine is a custom motorcycle builder and runs iPads as his dash/diagnostic displays on all of his bikes. He wants to set up my boat with an iPad dash display which I think would be beyond cool. That'll be next winters project.

What is sitting on the dash, above your speedos? Looks like atablet or maybe a GPS pickup?

The repair on the buckets looks good too. I wish I had all of the pieces of my trim, some pieces were missing when I got the boat so I am S.O.L. in that regard, oh well. My bucket is good though.

New hub for the steering wheel? Did you do this just so you can better align your wheel? That part looks sweet. Very nice work!

[flipz96]

That new dash looks great! Simple and clean, but definitely spruces it up! I thought of doing something similar but ran out of time haha. Where did you get your new gauges? I am looking for one GPS speedo gauge that's not a rip off. A friend of mine is a custom motorcycle builder and runs iPads as his dash/diagnostic displays on all of his bikes. He wants to set up my boat with an iPad dash display which I think would be beyond cool. That'll be next winters project.

What is sitting on the dash, above your speedos? Looks like atablet or maybe a GPS pickup?

The repair on the buckets looks good too. I wish I had all of the pieces of my trim, some pieces were missing when I got the boat so I am S.O.L. in that regard, oh well. My bucket is good though.

New hub for the steering wheel? Did you do this just so you can better align your wheel? That part looks sweet. Very nice work!

Thanks Luke! It got the gauges from marine surplus in sarasota and ebay. I think I'm going to switch out the speedometers though. As much as I like the look, I didn't realize that the gauges start at 15 mph. We do a lot of surfing, so they wouldn't do us any good. We've been using a speed app on the iphone...but i gauge it mainly by look and feel of the wave. That would be pretty cool to use an ipad display in the center panel.

That black rectangular piece on the dash is one of my solar trickle chargers. I pay for covered storage and don't have a power source so I have one hooked up to each battery.

That hub came with the new steering wheel. It think it will look pretty sweet when I get it installed.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/Mobile%20Uploads/83A2A338-D066-40EE-A46C-D649D009FE35_zpsxvgkp1vv.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/Mobile%20Uploads/83A2A338-D066-40EE-A46C-D649D009FE35_zpsxvgkp1vv.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

That's steering wheel is sick! I have been looking for a new one, where did you find yours? Also, where do you get the solar trickle chargers? Id love to add one to my boat. What app do you use on your iPhone? Considered running an app for the time being since I have no speedo's

[flipz96]

That's steering wheel is sick! I have been looking for a new one, where did you find yours? Also, where do you get the solar trickle chargers? Id love to add one to my boat. What app do you use on your iPhone? Considered running an app for the time being since I have no speedo's

Thanks! I got it from a company called forever sharp steering wheels. The solar chargers I got as a present, but I think you can get them at harbor freight. The app that we use is Speed Box. There are a number of different apps that are free. Just find the one with large numbers and the colors you like.

[lmnelson86]

I haven't installed my captains chair yet...I want to find one with a flip up bolster, I like being able to sit up high. Any idea where I could find one, aside from buying a new one that's $200+? Id love to find one out of a totaled or part out boat.

Ill look into the chargers, that's a good idea. I plan on keeping my boat at my cottage and we don't have any shore power hook ups, so it would be nice to be able to leave the automatic bilge running and not have to worry about the battery draining during the week

[flipz96]

I haven't installed my captains chair yet...I want to find one with a flip up bolster, I like being able to sit up high. Any idea where I could find one, aside from buying a new one that's $200+? Id love to find one out of a totaled or part out boat.

Ill look into the chargers, that's a good idea. I plan on keeping my boat at my cottage and we don't have any shore power hook ups, so it would be nice to be able to leave the automatic bilge running and not have to worry about the battery draining during the week

That is a tough one. They flip up bolster seats are pretty expensive...even the used ones I've seen at marine surplus. I'm building a small platform to mount the seat base on to give me a little more height.

[lmnelson86]

I was kind of thinking this is exactly the same thing I will have to do. Oh well.

[flipz96]

I was kind of thinking this is exactly the same thing I will have to do. Oh well.

Its pretty tight in there because of the throttle location and the engine box cover. Raising the base may make the chair interfere with the reverse. Another idea is to create a removable rigid half moon booster cushion that you can store under the helm when not in use....or get a narrower pedestal chair. Our seats are really low. With the constant stop and go, the seat height is not working in our favor. If I do make a booster cushion, it will probably never get stowed away.

For me...first things first, get it running in the water! Congrats on getting yours out. Post some videos if you get a chance.

[lmnelson86]

Its pretty tight in there because of the throttle location and the engine box cover. Raising the base may make the chair interfere with the reverse. Another idea is to create a removable rigid half moon booster cushion that you can store under the helm when not in use....or get a narrower pedestal chair. Our seats are really low. With the constant stop and go, the seat height is not working in our favor. If I do make a booster cushion, it will probably never get stowed away.

For me...first things first, get it running in the water! Congrats on getting yours out. Post some videos if you get a chance.

I threw up a video in the June picture thread in the general section, I hope it works ok. I will definitely be getting some footage over the next few weeks to post. I agree completely with the seat, no room at all so making a bolster may be the best option, which is cool with me. And you're right, it would probably never get put away.

Yea, I couldn't wait to get mine out. I just sat on a 7 gallon bucket (a tall 5 gallon) with a cushion on top. I actually like it a lot more than the oem seat haha.

[flipz96]

Yea, I couldn't wait to get mine out. I just sat on a 7 gallon bucket (a tall 5 gallon) with a cushion on top. I actually like it a lot more than the oem seat haha.

There is nothing wrong with that bro! The important thing is that your boat is running and you are able to enjoy it! Hopefully this weekend for me!

[lmnelson86]

There is nothing wrong with that bro! The important thing is that your boat is running and you are able to enjoy it! Hopefully this weekend for me!

I completely agree. I was just happy to get out and enjoy it. Can't wait to see pics of yours on the water! You run a second battery, right? Do you have it mounted in the same cubby hole as the original battery?

[flipz96]

You run a second battery, right? Do you have it mounted in the same cubby hole as the original battery?

I do have a second battery with a solenoid. The PO had it in the same storage with the starter battery and amps. It was too crowded. I moved the auxilliary battery to the portside walk through storage/under the helm.

[flipz96]

I got my panels cut yesterday. Its 1/8" abs faux carbon fiber sheet and I used 1/4" king starboard for backing on the engine box storage door.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/F8B38091-C2EF-4CDB-99A4-9CCDFBCC1CFA_zpscfsmefvr.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/F8B38091-C2EF-4CDB-99A4-9CCDFBCC1CFA_zpscfsmefvr.jpg.html)

I made the storage door with the same dimensions as the factory so that it fit over the previous cutout. I added 1/2" radius corners so I wouldn't get scratched or cut walking around. I'm pretty happy how it turned out. I just need to sand down some of the edges, add the handle, the catch receiver and Supra sticker that I ordered.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/D7C65BA0-D832-44B8-A169-AD51D56B3545_zpsycwdyryf.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/D7C65BA0-D832-44B8-A169-AD51D56B3545_zpsycwdyryf.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/01903015-CFB9-497C-B40D-5103C45C3B19_zpsjbrghn5e.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/01903015-CFB9-497C-B40D-5103C45C3B19_zpsjbrghn5e.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

That's bad ass. Super clean, love it! Now what else can you whip up in carbon? I love visual carbon.

[flipz96]

That's bad ass. Super clean, love it! Now what else can you whip up in carbon? I love visual carbon.

I also still have to dremel down the ends of the exposed screw tips. I was thinking of doing the same for the walkthrough storage, but I may wait on that. A 40" x 24", 1/8" sheet of that is $40. I looked into real carbon fiber sheets and its about $200 for the same size. The faux carbon fiber is on 1/8" abs which isn't that rigid and a sheet of that with no support has a bend to it. Thats why I added the 1/4" king starboard. Unfortunately, they had to be mechanically fastened because adhesive generally don't work on them. I think they may have came out with an adhesive, but I'm impatient and wanted to get it done.

[flipz96]

Here a picture of the finish engine box hatch. I still need to dremel down the protruding screws in the hatch. Its a good compliment to the new dash panels.

I also still need to reupholster the engine box...actually get all new upholstery, but that will have to wait until next winter break...since I used up my budget for the floors and stringers.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/1FC29C3A-9A14-4694-A8C3-DFDEA2957ED1_zpszsboq8py.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/1FC29C3A-9A14-4694-A8C3-DFDEA2957ED1_zpszsboq8py.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/7DCA9A13-D273-4097-B341-1F1C298532DF_zps2puga2jy.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/7DCA9A13-D273-4097-B341-1F1C298532DF_zps2puga2jy.jpg.html)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9178EB2B-C49F-45AD-8A57-D043F95025BC_zpsombjkepn.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9178EB2B-C49F-45AD-8A57-D043F95025BC_zpsombjkepn.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

Just got done installing the new dash panels. The only thing I'm going to change is I am moving the hourmeter next to the breaker panel which is in starboard walkthrough locker. The original hourmeter was replaced before I bought it and I forgot what the PO told me that it was. I'm keeping it for maintenance purposes. I'm replacing it with a separate volt meter for my auxiliary battery. I am also going to use the switch built in on the steering wheel for the horn. I got a couple of my rocker switches from marine surplus, but I am going to replace them with new matching ones like the left panel.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/3CCAB952-A3E1-42AE-B73C-3D04F0C5BF80_zpsiig37exr.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/3CCAB952-A3E1-42AE-B73C-3D04F0C5BF80_zpsiig37exr.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/01050069-221A-4D43-B7A0-EC9BEF3212F7_zpscovnitfk.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/01050069-221A-4D43-B7A0-EC9BEF3212F7_zpscovnitfk.jpg.html)

This is what it looked like before:

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/61E7E3E1-F682-49C0-AD8A-E952EC383AAD_zpsgjyyg79x.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/61E7E3E1-F682-49C0-AD8A-E952EC383AAD_zpsgjyyg79x.jpg.html)

[mlaosa]

Flipz, that boat looks bad ass! I've been following your rebuild and you sure make it look easy! your new dash looks absolutely amazing. Great job

[flipz96]

Thanks man. Its taking me a lot longer than I wanted, but its turning out pretty good. I'm hoping to get her out on the water soon! Just got a couple loose ends to get wrapped up.

[Sdc77]

This dash looks awesome man, very nice work ! Will definitely think about it for mine ;)

Where did you find the long steering hub ?

[UKandH]

Sswweeeeeeeeetttttttttttttttt

[flipz96]

Thanks guys! Deciding not to reinstall the black helm upholstery really brightens things up. It was in really bad shape anyways (cracked, chipped, and dirty). I almost started to make a mold of a new helm set up, but decided to go the easier route. These panels are larger than the original because it needed to cover the factory cutout in the FRP. I am adding more ss fasteners (screws) once I get all the new switches.

The steering hub....I ordered with my steering wheel. Its the marine adapter with 3/4" keyway.

If anyone is interested in the dwg of these, I can email it to you. I can also email as a full scale pdf if you don't have access to CAD. I would suggest printing them out full scale and do a check pattern before cutting on your finish material.

[lmnelson86]

That looks awesome man. I give you props for tackling the dash, all of those wires and gauges intimidate me. Way too much BS going on in there haha. I feel like most of it is unnecessary.

[flipz96]

That looks awesome man. I give you props for tackling the dash, all of those wires and gauges intimidate me. Way too much BS going on in there haha. I feel like most of it is unnecessary.

Its not as difficult as it looks (definitely intimidating at first). When wiring a rocker switch with separate breaker, all you need to know is power in, switch out, to the breaker to component . I changed up my wiring configuration a little bit. I moved the stereo switch over to auxiliary battery and cigarette lighter direct (along with the switch and breaker) to the starter battery. I will do the same and add a cigarette lighter with switch and breaker to the portside auxiliary battery. This way I can trickle charge though these cigarette lighter connections...instead of going deep under the helm (which is where my starter battery is now located) and inside the portside walkthrough locker. I can certainly reach all them if I had to, but just adding as a convenience.

[Okie Boarder]

Love the dash update.

[Supra_Comp]

Great looking restoration and excellent use of materials. That dash update has got me inspired!

[SquamInboards]

Looking great! On the speedometer range, I always get a kick out of speedometers for go-fast boats, when I'm used to working in the 5-40mph range:
http://www.livorsi.com/images/catalog/specialty/speedo_dc.gif

[flipz96]

Looking great! On the speedometer range, I always get a kick out of speedometers for go-fast boats, when I'm used to working in the 5-40mph range:


I know...right?! I've been looking for something with a lower range. I've been told (but haven't confirmed) that the pitots don't read accurately under 10mph. The shop says I need to go to a gps based or paddlewheel if I want the lower range. I just haven't found anything that fits the look yet. In the meantime, I just use my speedometer app on my phone.

[SquamInboards]

I know...right?! I've been looking for something with a lower range. I've been told (but haven't confirmed) that the pitots don't read accurately under 10mph. The shop says I need to go to a gps based or paddlewheel if I want the lower range. I just haven't found anything that fits the look yet. In the meantime, I just use my speedometer app on my phone.

That is what I've found, too. The vacuum-based speedos just don't work very well below 10mph. Paddlewheels do work well and they are probably a cheaper option than GPS. However, you do have to drill a big hole in the bottom of the boat. They do make transom-mount paddlewheels but every inboard I've seen uses the through-hull type.

[flipz96]

Just in case...I bought a 50lb thrust Minn Kota transom mount trolling motor for backup. I know that I can probably ask someone on the lake to tow me back to the ramp if needed but I don't like to rely on anyone. I'm going to build a platform/storage on the starboard side of the engine box. The platform will extend under the helm seat and aft of the helm seat will have a hinged hatch to access the stored trolling motor. It should be about the same height at the coaming step. Hopefully I'll never have to use it. There were 3 times I could have used this last summer. It sure beats rowing!


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/3437DDA6-F1D2-43C7-BB38-9BFCAEEAC39E_zpsiz63tqal.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/3437DDA6-F1D2-43C7-BB38-9BFCAEEAC39E_zpsiz63tqal.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CDB35AC8-AD23-4B96-A008-B395F63D04E8_zpsqtkgn5j0.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CDB35AC8-AD23-4B96-A008-B395F63D04E8_zpsqtkgn5j0.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/DE3589BF-AF52-4078-930E-4D9295DC41A4_zpscaqb5hyr.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/DE3589BF-AF52-4078-930E-4D9295DC41A4_zpscaqb5hyr.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/52F01439-3FF1-47BA-9956-ED69E41727E0_zps3hdyazca.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/52F01439-3FF1-47BA-9956-ED69E41727E0_zps3hdyazca.jpg.html)

[SquamInboards]

Interesting idea! An electric "kicker" for the Supra. Seems like a lot of weight and bulk to carry around for the off chance you might need it though.

[flipz96]

Interesting idea! An electric "kicker" for the Supra. Seems like a lot of weight and bulk to carry around for the off chance you might need it though.

Good thing my stringers and floors are light! I know its only a 50lb thrust and looks a little cheesy when it on, but I just need something to get me across the lake if one of the hundred things that can go wrong, does...I'm building a small platform that goes on top of it when its stored...so that I don't loose any floor space.

[lmnelson86]

That's a pretty good idea so you don't get stranded. While using my boat the past few weekends, I have come to the conclusion that the space behind the drivers seat is good for one thing : storage. I haven't finished my tower just yet so its a nice place for all of our gear. Boat's looking great man. Cant wait to see it on the water, you've got to be dying of heat and ready to use that thing!

[flipz96]

I was finally able to get the boat out this weekend. What a great feeling! I just have to get my audio system put back in which I will do this week and my upholstery which will be done after this season!

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CD608A5E-0EC4-49EA-888D-A250971CA36C_zpsbflcewwx.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/CD608A5E-0EC4-49EA-888D-A250971CA36C_zpsbflcewwx.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8D67660C-4174-48BA-B287-4C1A1D73BA89_zpsphxx168a.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8D67660C-4174-48BA-B287-4C1A1D73BA89_zpsphxx168a.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/EEEDC69F-B869-405E-A1A8-663F61233446_zpsrxr6lp6r.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/EEEDC69F-B869-405E-A1A8-663F61233446_zpsrxr6lp6r.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8CD4F569-5583-4AFD-9A39-06EA41A7DBD7_zpskqrth2sb.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8CD4F569-5583-4AFD-9A39-06EA41A7DBD7_zpskqrth2sb.jpg.html)

[flipz96]

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/5D326CA6-9EEA-4740-A500-EEA5334B1D82_zpscigjdyfo.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/5D326CA6-9EEA-4740-A500-EEA5334B1D82_zpscigjdyfo.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A7AE3FCD-0B98-4E0F-AF86-2B1F4E6FB42F_zpsqmwmt64u.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A7AE3FCD-0B98-4E0F-AF86-2B1F4E6FB42F_zpsqmwmt64u.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/DCF89277-4B56-492E-8A2E-B30440E95A5C_zpspfdewxyw.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/DCF89277-4B56-492E-8A2E-B30440E95A5C_zpspfdewxyw.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/7E23914F-3469-4F75-87B1-3F026AC1151B_zpsqvbv25hb.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/7E23914F-3469-4F75-87B1-3F026AC1151B_zpsqvbv25hb.jpg.html)

[jasun]

I'm going to build a platform/storage on the starboard side of the engine box. The platform will extend under the helm seat and aft of the helm seat will have a hinged hatch to access the stored trolling motor. It should be about the same height at the coaming step.

Like this?

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/jasunderland/F5F7217D-3597-4349-9278-085AB05E1CC6_zpswhftrbey.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/jasunderland/media/F5F7217D-3597-4349-9278-085AB05E1CC6_zpswhftrbey.jpg.html)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/jasunderland/05A316E7-B28C-4FDE-8885-350EB55D135C_zpso8ambtva.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/jasunderland/media/05A316E7-B28C-4FDE-8885-350EB55D135C_zpso8ambtva.jpg.html)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/jasunderland/208AD329-021B-4CB7-90BF-5760EAAF64E8_zpsoethqse7.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/jasunderland/media/208AD329-021B-4CB7-90BF-5760EAAF64E8_zpsoethqse7.jpg.html)

I built that to put my wake board pylon under so people don't have to worry about stepping on it when getting in the boat from the dock. The front is open so the pylon slides up under the driver seat and helm. It works great as I can put my "lake bag" under it to get it out of the way. Also, one of the benefits of it was helping people get into the boat. There is a now a nice step instead of having to drop all the way to the floor.

[flipz96]

Like this?

I built that to put my wake board pylon under so people don't have to worry about stepping on it when getting in the boat from the dock. The front is open so the pylon slides up under the driver seat and helm. It works great as I can put my "lake bag" under it to get it out of the way. Also, one of the benefits of it was helping people get into the boat. There is a now a nice step instead of having to drop all the way to the floor.

That is it! That is pretty crazy! That was the vision that I had for it and functions exactly the same! Thanks for the pictures! Now since you already have one, is there anything that you would change on it?

[lmnelson86]

Marvin, the boat looks sick! Give me the rundown on your tablet setup for the dash. What tablet, what programs/apps are you running and using it for? Any diagnostics, or just MPH? Very similar to what I want to do this winter.

Also what brand is your mirror, and what size? I have been looking for a new mirror but I can only find "stock" photos...I want to see the real thing on a boat. Yours is exactly what I am looking for!

[jasun]

That is it! That is pretty crazy! That was the vision that I had for it and functions exactly the same! Thanks for the pictures! Now since you already have one, is there anything that you would change on it?

I would have given myself more tolerance for the carpet. I didn't think the stack up on it would be that much but made everything a much tighter fit (too tight in some areas). I did not mount it to the floor. it stays in place just fine. Built it out of 2x2's and 3/4" marine ply on both steps and 1/2 ply on the faces. I did not face the starboard side of it nor the side the butts up against the back seat. I have some LED's on the inside also which have proven to be handy. I keep a plastic tool box in the boat that just so happens (and I didn't plan it this way) to tuck nicely right under the short step on the inside. So you might be able to design it to function with something you already have too. Other then that, I have been very happy with how it turned out. I am planning on putting a gas strut on it to keep it open and keep it from over extending. Good luck! should be a piece of cake!

[lmnelson86]

Hahaha cracking up at your myspace hat

[flipz96]

Marvin, the boat looks sick! Give me the rundown on your tablet setup for the dash. What tablet, what programs/apps are you running and using it for? Any diagnostics, or just MPH? Very similar to what I want to do this winter.

Also what brand is your mirror, and what size? I have been looking for a new mirror but I can only find "stock" photos...I want to see the real thing on a boat. Yours is exactly what I am looking for!

Thanks Luke! Because my pitot speedometer starts at 15 mph, it really is not useful for surfing. I am strictly using it for speed right now. I am eventually going to integrate it with a transom mount sonar for depth. It actually more expensive to take that route than it is to just get a Hawk Eye standalone depth finder for $100 but that is the cost for aesthetics. The app I'm using is GPS HUD Speedometer. I like that that app goes to 1/100. Most of them round to nearest whole. I am not using data or wireless. In order to use it without those, I chose to use GNS 2000 which allows you to send and receive GPS/GLONASS data. I'm not sure if its taking advantage of GLONASS or not. Depending on if you are using and Android or iOS, there may be an additional app you have to download to allow it to use the external GPS. There are others on the market as well, but from my research, it seemed to be the one I needed to get. I haven't decided if I'm going to do away with the analog speedometers yet and integrate into the dash. For now, it works and looks just fine.

As far as the mirror, I bought it from Marine Surplus in Sarasota. It didn't come with the mounting bracket, but it fit on my previous mirror mounting bracket. I'll stop by there tomorrow to see if they have anymore and measure the size. I'm sure you can fabricate a bracket to work with it.

[flipz96]

Hahaha cracking up at your myspace hat

Its vintage! LOL

[flipz96]

I would have given myself more tolerance for the carpet. I didn't think the stack up on it would be that much but made everything a much tighter fit (too tight in some areas). I did not mount it to the floor. it stays in place just fine. Built it out of 2x2's and 3/4" marine ply on both steps and 1/2 ply on the faces. I did not face the starboard side of it nor the side the butts up against the back seat. I have some LED's on the inside also which have proven to be handy. I keep a plastic tool box in the boat that just so happens (and I didn't plan it this way) to tuck nicely right under the short step on the inside. So you might be able to design it to function with something you already have too. Other then that, I have been very happy with how it turned out. I am planning on putting a gas strut on it to keep it open and keep it from over extending. Good luck! should be a piece of cake!

I appreciate that Jasun! Did you build over the coaming step? Or did you not have one? I like that you have different levels which you use for a step. I didn't think about that until I saw yours.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/52F01439-3FF1-47BA-9956-ED69E41727E0_zps3hdyazca.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/52F01439-3FF1-47BA-9956-ED69E41727E0_zps3hdyazca.jpg.html)

[jasun]

I appreciate that Jasun! Did you build over the coaming step? Or did you not have one? I like that you have different levels which you use for a step. I didn't think about that until I saw yours.


I did not have a coaming step but there was a piece of trim (just carpeted 3/4" ply) that I just removed. Gave it a lot more room under it. I was going to have it slope down from the hinged lid to make it the same level as the seat base so that anyone sitting there didn't feel confined, but my geometry skills have long since left me. Was much easier just to do a Step down (which I think turned out better then a slope would have). I wanted the storage to be the same height as the seat base. I tried to make the main section as tall as I could because like someone else said, that side is just wasted space behind the driver seat. I have another trim piece on the side that limited the height. Otherwise I would have made it just tall enough so that my cooler could fit under there as well.

I was worried at one point because I wasn't sure I had enough angle for the pylon to fit in and slide forward so the back of the pole would fit. I clear it by about 2" though. I added just a 45* block to keep the pylon from rolling around.

[flipz96]

It better that it didn't slope anyways...especially if you are going to put an extra cooler or anything on top. You don't have to worry about things sliding on top of anyone sitting in the aft seats. Originally, my thought was to build to the same height as my step. Now I'm thinking of building higher and cover it completely to get more storage.

[Sdc77]

Marvin, I'm little confused, is it bad smoke coming out from the engine dog house on this pic ?

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/8CD4F569-5583-4AFD-9A39-06EA41A7DBD7_zpskqrth2sb.jpg

[flipz96]

Marvin, I'm little confused, is it bad smoke coming out from the engine dog house on this pic ?



Thats funny that you mentioned that. That is actually sunscreen transferred from my hand while when I adjusted the mirror after she started. I tried to smear it off, but failed. LOL. She only got one run in so I wasn't able to get a clear picture this time.

[flipz96]

Also what brand is your mirror, and what size? I have been looking for a new mirror but I can only find "stock" photos...I want to see the real thing on a boat. Yours is exactly what I am looking for!

Luke...here is a picture and dimensions of my mirror:

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/B7FF465C-661E-463F-9D86-3DB733FAF575_zpsybo6u1vd.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/B7FF465C-661E-463F-9D86-3DB733FAF575_zpsybo6u1vd.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/41850055-FF8A-4E40-A0B2-161E9F922B09_zpswegtdyu8.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/41850055-FF8A-4E40-A0B2-161E9F922B09_zpswegtdyu8.jpg.html)

[lmnelson86]

Marvin -

You're the man, thanks so much.

[flipz96]

I was able to get out on the lake before the storm rolled in. It was really choppy. For as much work we did to get it on the water, we try to squeeze it in every chance we get!

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/AD100E74-8C82-4FA5-967F-F151794144C7_zps1yqpfrmx.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/AD100E74-8C82-4FA5-967F-F151794144C7_zps1yqpfrmx.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/B4E8A03F-91C6-4102-A533-287F6B9CB5FD_zps8jaqxbty.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/B4E8A03F-91C6-4102-A533-287F6B9CB5FD_zps8jaqxbty.jpg.html)

Here's a short video. I ran out of memory on my phone.
https://youtu.be/xKM5l99URgY

[Sdc77]

So cool you can share this passion with your girlfriend. Mine doesn't ride and work on the boat with me. Fortunatly she likes spending time on it for sun bath.
Your boat is one of my favorite. I definitely like all the mods you did on it. It looks like a modern boat ;)

I'm trying to find ABS faux Carbone sheet here in France, I really would like to rebuild my rear hatch, dash and front hatch like yours. Unfortunatly it seems to be hard to find here. Will search more and more, and maybe order from UK.

What will be next mods you plan to do on your boat ?

[flipz96]

So cool you can share this passion with your girlfriend. Mine doesn't ride and work on the boat with me. Fortunatly she likes spending time on it for sun bath.
Your boat is one of my favorite. I definitely like all the mods you did on it. It looks like a modern boat ;)

I'm trying to find ABS faux Carbone sheet here in France, I really would like to rebuild my rear hatch, dash and front hatch like yours. Unfortunatly it seems to be hard to find here. Will search more and more, and maybe order from UK.

What will be next mods you plan to do on your boat ?

I appreciate that man! I am very lucky to have her support and she enjoys and works on the boat with me. I got her into the wakeboarding and wakesurfing and she loves it now. At least the sunbathing brings your girl on the boat!

There is always something to mod on the boat. I was thinking about doing the underwater lights, but I don't do any night boating (yet). I've been checking out some of your other threads too (ie tower speakers) and its pretty cool. I am going to make coaming wall panels because mine were missing when I got the boat. I'm still trying to decide what material I am going to use for it.

I've been working on designing some check patterns for a NSS style tabs. The only thing I'm hesitant on is trying to reach down for a backing plate between the transom/coring and the gas tank. I think I may have to remove my gas tank to get access and it will be a PITA. I also want to do lenco tabs but will also consider making it manual. This is when my girl steps in and says "why don't we just enjoy the boat for awhile before we do anything else." =)

[Sdc77]

Ahaha, that's exactly what my GF said when I show her your faux carbon parts. She just want to enjoy it this way.
Removing the gas tank is not that hard on the Saltare without removing seats, we simply flip it vertically when I have to work under it (for underwater leds and rudder), about 1 hour, not more. Don't know for the Mariah ...

With your access to CNC, a tower speaker can be a cool winter project ;)

[lmnelson86]

16254

Flipz..or anyone else...

Can you tell me what goes through the two holes in this kick panel? It was already removed by the previous owner when I got the boat. I know where it goes...just not sure what to make of the two holes. Thought it could be for some of the wires or maybe a vent? No idea...

[flipz96]

I haven't put that panel back yet, but I believe it for the wires that go to the block and access to the a junction box (I don't know the official name) that connects to the alarm buzzer (overheating, low oil, low gas, etc.). Not a 100% on that though.

[lmnelson86]

I haven't put that panel back yet, but I believe it for the wires that go to the block and access to the a junction box (I don't know the official name) that connects to the alarm buzzer (overheating, low oil, low gas, etc.). Not a 100% on that though.

That is kind of what I thought...without any trim or anything I thought it looked odd. Oh well, ill figure it out I guess haha!

[SquamInboards]

Does that go to the left of the driver's feet? I think my steering cable and a whole ton of wires go through a similar hole in that panel on my boat. It's an '89 Bravura, which is basically a closed bow mariah.

[flipz96]

Does that go to the left of the driver's feet? I think my steering cable and a whole ton of wires go through a similar hole in that panel on my boat. It's an '89 Bravura, which is basically a closed bow mariah.

It does! That makes sense. Thanks! Haven't had a chance to put mine back in yet. Since I have everything hooked up, it probably won't make it back in the holes...at least this season.

[lmnelson86]

I cant imagine the steering cable runs through it, mine runs towards the outside of the boat...and theres no way the previous owner could have taken it off since the steering was still in tact. But I'm pretty sure you guys are right, just a bunch of wires to go through there.

[Sdc77]

Hi Marvin, pm sent ;)

[MarbleFalls]

Thanks! I got it from a company called forever sharp steering wheels. The solar chargers I got as a present, but I think you can get them at harbor freight. The app that we use is Speed Box. There are a number of different apps that are free. Just find the one with large numbers and the colors you like.

Awesome steering wheel. I'm using carbon fiber vinyl around my gauges and the steering wheel would be a nice touch. Did you have to purchase an adaptor or did the wheel fit right up? Great job on the boat!!

[flipz96]

Thanks! If I remember correctly, I bought the adapter.

[flipz96]

I finally got the upholstery done on her. =)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/68FF5C88-039A-4B69-83A2-6D756C70479C_zpscdtrpdzx.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/68FF5C88-039A-4B69-83A2-6D756C70479C_zpscdtrpdzx.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9F018C02-1F60-472D-B619-BD043053E065_zpsfmalasbk.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9F018C02-1F60-472D-B619-BD043053E065_zpsfmalasbk.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/D177DE47-EB07-4233-8E3D-9A1BDCD72A46_zpsotbdnek2.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/D177DE47-EB07-4233-8E3D-9A1BDCD72A46_zpsotbdnek2.jpg.html)

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9DD88965-45BD-46C8-A762-FCD746CED07C_zpsjoocjagi.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/9DD88965-45BD-46C8-A762-FCD746CED07C_zpsjoocjagi.jpg.html)

[oldsmobiledriver]

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TitanTn]

Great job. You're going to enjoy that for years to come.

[Sdc77]

Great job man ;)

[rmckeever]

Wondering if you know where the tower came from on this boat? I really like it with a reverse slope towards the front. It's much more common seeing them face towards the rear. Thx

[flipz96]

Sorry for the delayed response. Its a “Freeride” made by aerial towers.

[michael hunter]

Great work . A job like that has to be a labor of love. Why don't you take a road trip up to GA for the Southern Supra Reunion in July . We would love to see her in person.