PDA

View Full Version : Rudder Arm Coupling



CJD
04-07-2015, 02:27 PM
We've been getting all set for the season, and I decided to look over the steering. It has a bit of play...nothing I am worried about, but enough to bug me. I started at the rudder, and noticed there is about 1/8" slop between the steering cable end and the bronze rudder arm. The slop is in this little stainless stamped bracket that wraps around a through bolt in the rudder arm, and the forward end of the bracket is bolted to the steering cable end.

I tried hammering the bracket to reduce the play, but there is no way to remove it because of the design. If I crimp the bracket down tighter on the through bolt, it binds the steering. I called the Supra dealer to see if there is a better designed bracket, and they said that is what all the boats use, and it is made to be flimsy to prevent damage if you whack something under the water.

So...is there a better coupling bracket to tie the steering cable to the rudder arm? Play is cumulative in a steering system, and it just seems strange there is not a better bracket.

leetudor
04-07-2015, 09:17 PM
I would think when the boat is underway that the force of the water will remove that by loading pressure on the rudder.

CJD
04-09-2015, 11:29 AM
I would think when the boat is underway that the force of the water will remove that by loading pressure on the rudder.

There is always a position of the rudder where the forces are neutral...usually when you are going straight...and you'll feel the play. Has anyone seen a better coupling than the "strap" around the rudder bolt?

leetudor
04-09-2015, 10:46 PM
There is always a position of the rudder where the forces are neutral...usually when you are going straight...and you'll feel the play. Has anyone seen a better coupling than the "strap" around the rudder bolt?

Most "ski" boats do not have a neutral feel and are made to have some resistance on it. Like when you take your hands off the wheel it will dart to one side.

CJD
04-10-2015, 10:50 AM
My boat does not dart to the side. I can take my hands off the wheel and it will track straight and true. There are discussions on the forum as to how to trim your boat so it will not dart...and it is a good idea to neutralize center for safety reasons.

I'm getting the feeling nobody has paid attention to this cheapo link?? At the least everybody should be greasing it once a year...

CJD
04-11-2015, 03:52 PM
I found the upgrade to the cheapo part. I first had to figure out the proper name, which is a swivel clevis. Telex makes 2, the cheap stamped steel version that our Supras came with, and a solid bushed version PN SA27577P. I have it on order and will post details when it arrives. It should eliminate about 1/8" of slop at the tiller arm, which will be several degrees at the steering wheel.

More to follow...

CJD
04-14-2015, 03:05 PM
Just got a call from Telex. They have not started to supply the better clevis yet, but expect to have them in 10 days. I'm told this is a brand new part...cool! I can't believe they only supplied the sloppy strap clevis all these years. I assume I'm not the only one to ask the question, though, or they wouldn't have come up with a slop-free clevis.

suprasaltareaud
04-15-2015, 01:45 AM
Awesome. I think I need to get my hands on one also. It isn't the end of the world but if it can be improved then I agree it's worth doing. Thanks for finding them.

Cheers

Jason

SquamInboards
04-22-2015, 08:41 AM
Interesting find, can you post pictures when you get the new part? I'm having trouble picturing which part, exactly, you're talking about. There are a few parts of the steering assembly around where the cable meets the rudder that I can think of as being mediocre.

If it's the part I'm thinking of, the bolt should have a "shoulder" that the nut rests on, so as you tighten it, it won't ever bind the way you're describing. That's why I'm not sure which piece...

Is it "H" in this diagram?
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/howtos/711c.jpg

CJD
04-22-2015, 12:47 PM
Just to the right of the "H". The original is just a strap of stainless that wraps around a bolt. There is a shoulder on the bolt for the strap to ride on...but the flaw is that a strap cannot be made without some looseness...like 1/8", which is significant in a steering system.

CJD
05-17-2015, 10:55 AM
Finally got the new coupling. I am pretty sure this is brand new, as nobody in the country had one, but here it is...

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/cjdurant/DSC02799.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/cjdurant/media/DSC02799.jpg.html)

This pic is the new coupling on the left, with the one every other Supra uses on the right. Bottom line...no contest! The newer one is heftier and uses nylon bushings that remove all play. You can see the original just uses a strap to hold the bolt that goes through the tiller arm. Lame.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/cjdurant/DSC02803.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/cjdurant/media/DSC02803.jpg.html)

Here, the bolt hole closest in the pic is where the steering flex cable attaches. The larger bolt is the one that goes through the tiller and bolts tightly to the arm. I honestly can't believe we have been using that chinsy coupling all these years.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/cjdurant/DSC02804.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/cjdurant/media/DSC02804.jpg.html)

So, the play in my steering is less than half what it was at the wheel. This is an upgrade I highly recommend!

K_Dubbs
06-12-2015, 02:15 PM
How much play does part E have in your system? I am finding mine not only pivots side to side as it should but also transversely to the intended direction.

CJD
06-12-2015, 07:11 PM
Mine swings and pivots,but has no "play" that I can detect.