85 Supra Bilge Pump Replacement

[Straitcountry86]

Hey all, I'm looking to replace the bilge pump in my 85 Supra Comp TS6M. The current pump seems to be only working intermittently. What is a direct replacement for my pump which will pump around 1000-2000 GPH? Just looking for something that will drop right in without any major modifications. Any kind of advice would be appreciated.

[Straitcountry86]

Would something like this work: http://www.amazon.com/Rule-10-Marine-2000-GPH-12-Volt/dp/B000O89BCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434062575&sr=8-1&keywords=2000+bilge+pump

[UKandH]

I fitted a Rule pump to mine, it took 10 minutes :)

[leetudor]

Most 1000-2000 GPH pumps will need 1" hose where you have 3/4" hose in your boat.

[jtryon]

I fitted a Rule pump to mine, it took 10 minutes :)
same here, and i re-used the mounting holes for the sahara pump that i pulled out. G1913396 is the model i got from Zoro Tools online for like $70, 1100GPH. it does have a 1" barb so i made an adapter to mate it to the 3/4" hose in the boat and haven't had any issues. the screen filter that comes with the pump has kept it from getting plugged up like my old pump used to all the time.

[Straitcountry86]

Excellent information, thank you. Where can I buy the adapter to fit the 3/4" hose?

[jtryon]

your local home depot or lowe's should have fittings like that in the plumbing section. just get a barbed 3/4" to 1" adapter, a short piece of 1" hose, and you should be good to go! may help to bring the pump with you to the store to make sure everything fits.

[Straitcountry86]

Perfect! Really appreciate the help. Just ordered the Rule 1100GPH pump.

[Straitcountry86]

Another question: since this Rule pump has an automatic feature built in, how do I wire that to the stock wiring? And how will it work with the stock knob where the first position is automatic, and the full out position is manual on.

[leetudor]

I would take the automatic wire install an inline fuse and hook straight to the positive post of the battery.

[cadunkle]

Factory bilge wiring is 3 wires. Black is ground, brown is switched power, brown with white stripe is always hot (for float switch). Under dash of my '89 Saltare is two inline glass fuse holders on brown with white stripe wires. Had a bad fuse today lingering from recent replacement of bilge. It would work on manual but not auto. Brief scare when I found a significant amount of water in the bilge at the end of the day. Old fuse failed melted at each end and damaged the fuse holder so new fuse wouldn't make contact. Just swapped hot lead from the secondary bilge fuse holder along with a new fuse and it's golden now. I replaced a failed Attwood Sahara 500 with a Sahara 750. Worked for 3-4 years I've had the boat and unknown history before that. I will likely add a second 750 toward the rear, possibly larger since if I have to drill a hole and install a fitting it makes no difference to go larger. Pucker factor today was not worth saving $100 or so, very relieved when the bilge started pumping after hitting the switch

If intermittent I'd check wiring. I replaced about 9 open unsealed crimp connections with three sealed crimps using heat shrink butt connectors then slathered liquid electric tape over that and heat shrinked over that. Should be sealed good. There was a lot of corrosion on the old wiring I had to cut back a bit. Seal all connections in the bilge, and I'd suggest sealing all connections on a boat. If it doesn't get wet it's in a moist humid environment.

I'm comfortable with the Attwood pump I have, but I'd be fine with a Rule too. Those are the two big names in bilge pumps, outside of specialty pumps, from what I gather. I used Attwood because the base used the same holes. I dipped the new screws in epoxy to seal the holes and put epoxy in/over any old holes from previous bilge pumps.