Stringer-Repair: Connecting upper & lower deck

[N3X]

Hello guys,

my first post here so short introduction. I'm from Germany and have a boat in shared ownership with a friend. After a brief journey into wakeboarding with an altered z-drive boat we've come to our senses and got ourselfes a '88 Supra Comp TS6M with a 351 PCM last year. Foolishly we've read into the bigger problems with those supras not before but after we've bought it. Be that as it may, the stringer were thoroughly rotten and we made a complete restore over the last winter. As we've finished that we are facing the connecting back together of upper and lower half of the boat. And that's where right now, new trouble comes up, as it seems we aren't able to get the overlapping parts as close together to fit the blind rivets. Do you have some advice?

We tried to screw between the rivet-holes but it seems as if this is not enough.

We're glad for any advice on this matter.

Thanks alot!

Sebastian

P.S. Shared a picture of our boat prior to refitting the stringers. And yes, the color and tower will be changed in time =)
16087

[flipz96]

Hello guys,

And that's where right now, new trouble comes up, as it seems we aren't able to get the overlapping parts as close together to fit the blind rivets. Do you have some advice?

We tried to screw between the rivet-holes but it seems as if this is not enough.

16087

I'm having a hard time understanding exactly what you mean. Do you have a picture?

I lined the inner of the hull knuckle with Trivera material. Its a felt type material that makes it where the glass can better receive and hold screws. I didn't use any of the old holes. I wanted to make sure I was securing on fresh glass. If you don't feel secure with just the screws, you could technically glass tab in certain areas you have access to....like the speaker cut outs, under the rear ski locker, etc.

[N3X]

16088
You see that the upper and lower hull parts are connected with rivets. We have taken those out for the stringer rebuild and now it seems as if we can't manage to get both parts adjacent so we can put the rivets through.

[flipz96]

I think I gotcha. Are you saying that there is too much of a gap between the top cap and the hull where the pop rivets dont take? I only used screws in mine and sealed with Sikaflex 291. If you are needing to draw the hull closer to reduce the gap, you can have someone hold a piece of wood in the inside areas that you can reach (like through the speaker cutouts) to draw it closer temporarily while you drill into it from the outer topcap...then remove the wood when you are done riveting that area.

[N3X]

I tried it yesterday and still am frustrated. 0.2 inch distance remains between both parts. Do some of you put some kind of foamed rubber between both parts? It's something my dad suggested yesterday when he saw our struggle.

[flipz96]

I your gap consistent or is it just in the midship? It should be tight around the fwd and aft. If so, rivet what you can and screw the rest (literally). If you don't feel confident with the screws in those areas, tab what you can from the inside. You are going to have to seal the seam. I used Sika Flex.

[wotan2525]

It sounds like you did not brace your sides when you removed the top-cap and now the bottom has sagged and is slightly narrower than before.

If I was in your position, I would be trying to use some long screws to "pull" the top and bottom together. Hell, get 2 or 3" screws and use some wood blocks for both side to get you some more leverage. Once you draw them together in a few places, rivet near those places and then remove the screws and insert rivets in their place. It might take some time but you'll end up with a much better fit than trying to take up the gap with something else. Then seal the rivet holes and the top/bottom seam with some silicone sealant (or 3M 4200) and it's time for the rubrail.

[N3X]

We put in all rivets yesterday but still have quite some gap between top and bottom hull. My partner thinks it's ok but i'm rather doubting the stiffness especially with a big tower on top.

Yes, Wotan, I think you're right! I've read your post too late. The bottom could easily have sagged while it wasn't stored on the trailer during the stringer rebuild. But your hint with the wood blocks for leverage is very good and we'll try it on some spots and if it's working well we'll rework all rivets.

[flipz96]

This might come late but maybe for anyone else with the same issue, you can try this....

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/EAC2DA62-9C7F-4B2C-AEE2-EE1F23019E54_zps6y4l5lra.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/EAC2DA62-9C7F-4B2C-AEE2-EE1F23019E54_zps6y4l5lra.jpg.html)