2008 24SSV Perfect pass headaches

[sailnaked6842]

Hey guys, I just bought an 08 24SSV that, while being mechanically sound, had a couple small issues that I didn't notice until I got home. First, and most importantly, was the DBW Perfect Pass system won't engage. Dealer said it worked when he went out, just took it a minute to come down to speed and then it worked fine, but I haven't been able to get it to work. Set it for 23 mph and you'll go up to 25 and down to 21 and it'll ask for throttle at weird times. Also it won't pull someone out of the water consistently. Sometimes if PP is on and you give it gas it'll pull up to speed fine but it won't beep to let you know it's taking over but most commonly it will surge pretty bad and you have to drop the rider and turn PP off. Any one ever experience anything like this? Called Aaron at PP who said they just licensed the software and referred me to Medallion. Medallion, unfortunately, was very unhelpful. Will say they were nice and tried to help, but didn't know anything about the system they had built. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Also local dealer said they've never heard of any problems with the DBW PP and to check the connections for loose wires or corrosion...which, as far as the connections under the gauges, none were in bad shape.

[CJD]

I'd start with the basics...

Make sure the speed shows in the PP window and is reasonable. Chech the throttle servo and linkage. Then check and clean the electrical connectors. 90% of problems will be in those 3 areas.

[UKandH]

I take it this is a PP system with a paddle wheel and not GPS?

Sounds as if there is an issue with the speed signal.

Main check is making sure the PP is set up correctly on system off...i.e. does the motor engage and do its test cycle first (a few pulses on the stepper motor and then tighten the slack?)
Is the linkage tight with no slack?
Is the cable completely free to move when the engine cover is closed fully?
There is a test function in the PP display unit, have you run through it to make sure it functions as it should?

[sailnaked6842]

It's drive by wire. No servos, no linkages, everything is controlled through the computer. No test function but there is a factory reset which I tried but I do think it's lacking communication somewhere, but there's no wiring diagrams to try to even begin to figure out where the problem is. Several wiring harnesses at the motor go to several wiring harnesses under the dash and a large 36 pin connector. The only thing I could find is a power wire for the PP which gives it the correct voltage. It's a headache

[CJD]

That simplifies it more...

Make sure the speed reading is reasonable and then clean all the connectors.

[Zim]

Not engaging is a little weird, not sure where to start on that one besides making sure all connections were tight. Your PP may be out of calibration as well, and may be reading different speeds than what your factory gauge reads causing an issue with engaging at higher speeds than you think. As for surging, there's calibration that sometimes need to take place when more weight has been added, or a prop change was made, or sometimes it just gets out of wack and you need to adjust the values in PP to help with holding speed. When you have a separate PP gauge, there's instructions for this. Using your medallion system, I'm not really sure what to do. So glad I have the separate gauge and it's not built into a screen! Here's what I found from PP:

http://perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass%20-%20Copy/images/2007supramanual.pdf


This is going to be the section that's relevant for the surging:

ADJUSTABLE PULL CHARACTERISTICS

KDW, NN – These background adjustable settings allow you to tailor the pull
characteristics of WakeboardPro. To access from normal wakeboard screen, highlight
“M” in upper right hand corner, then press UP Key. Wakeboard will now be highlighted
as show in Figure 2, press DOWN Key for settings and KDW will appear as shown.

Figure 3

KDW (Throttle Pull Rate) – KDW can be changed using up or down keys. The higher
the value, the more aggressive the control. Heavy boats may need higher values. Factory
setting is about 180. Normal range is 100 – 200.

NN (Paddle wheel Filter Factor) – NN is set at about 120. The higher the value the
more filtering is done. If you feel you boat is surging a little, raise value by 20 or 30.
(Normal range is 80 – 150).

CS (Control Setting) – There is an adjustable control setting (CS), which primarily
affects engagement. 2900 is normal, however, if you feel your boat “overshoots” the
target speed too much, you can lower the value a little. Adjustment of 50 at a time is
recommended. (Range is 2700 - 3000). (See Figure 4).

Hope that helps.

[tg0824SSVGG]

I have a 2008 24SSV that I had to replace the sensor this last year. You have to buy it from Supra, as it is different from the one
you can buy anywhere else - this one is built into the computer on the 2008 Supra and not a separate unit. It had worked flawlessly
since new - and works flawlessly since. It was several hundred $$ ($420) - but is just a plug/play unit - get the new one, take out the old
one (takes 1 minute to swap) and off you go.

This could be your problem - mine was just shot. How many hours on the boat?

This link contains some info - including some troubleshooting pointers from zim (likely what he already put into this thread)

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?16766-Anyone-replace-paddle-wheel-in-the-transducer-on-2008-Supra&highlight=perfect

[sailnaked6842]

Thanks for the replies, but unfortunately the surging is a lot more severe than what is experienced by PP adjustments. A reset was performed and everything returned to default but the PP still will not engage despite the analog gauge reading speed as well as the PP control screen, which will both read the same, none the less. Also speeds read are very consistent as I get consistent wake shape at the same numbers, so it would appear the paddlewheel/signal receiving unit are all okay.

As for surging, the only way it way it can be described is like it is receiving an intermittent signal or a communications error. The 2008 engagement rpm is set at 725 (Perfect Pass confirmed this number, said the manual online was incorrect) so when you throttle up it goes to 725 or maybe above, and then cuts back, then throttle and cut back, then throttle and cut back. You can do this until you get bored and turn PP off, or sometimes it will throttle up to speed, which getting it up to speed with PP on is uncommon. Once you're up to speed though it won't hold a speed for any amount of time, just seems to walk up, down, and around. I haven't tried moving the PP control up, but I imagine it would be the same thing occurring just at a different rpm. I called the dealer and they call the problem "dead stick" and aren't too sure what to do except check the connections. Unfortunately Medallion doesn't have a wiring diagram for the engine communications which would make that a lot easier.

As for hours on the boat they are 760.

When your PP quit did it read speed on both the analog and screen gauge and were they both consistent?

[tg0824SSVGG]

I Don't think I had ANY speed indication at all -- RPM's were correct. I imagine the PP can be put into RPM mode - does it work in that mode?
I didn't try it. But it was suggested to me as a way to bypass the "wheel" since it operates purely on RPM's which are read directly - and not from the pickup wheel.

[sailnaked6842]

Ah, yeah mine reads speed accurately on both the analog and digital gauge, even when PP is engaged it will read speed. It'll show the speed set point, highlight the actual speed, randomly tell you W or ask for more throttle even if you're above the set point. It's very annoying. Doesn't work on rpm mode either, although it may be more consistent? It was set for 3000 RPM and stayed level at 3000 when we were heading in, but once it was set for over 3000 rpm it wouldn't move to it and just stayed at 3000.

As for the wheel I think it's okay since it reads speed accurately on both gauges. Only thing that makes sense to me is a communications error from the throttle to the engine (when PP is engaged) or PP is having a communications error with the throttle, ECU or computer, which ever allows PP to control the engine, since it will work fine with PP off. It's like PP is intermittently instructing to speed up or slow down

[tg0824SSVGG]

Have you called PP directly? They were always helpful to me - but since this is built into the Supra controller software, they may be less helpful. But give it a shot if you have not.

[sailnaked6842]

Tried that too but they said they didn't know much about the system since they licensed the software to Medallion who designed the gauges and interfaces. Called Medallion and all I got was "Yeah, we have no idea why it's acting like that." In truth they were actually a lot more helpful but in that way where someone is trying to help you but you can tell they don't really know what to do. He spent a lot of time on the phone trying to find a solution or helpful documents but couldn't find any wiring diagrams that showed more than the 36 pin connector which only included the PP on/off wire. And tracing other wires as they leave the gauges is impossible since they all merge and run down the side. Also cleaned the connectors at the engine but don't see any improvement. At this point it is starting to sound like a computer problem. I'll try calling Supra and see what they say since I don't remember if I've talked to them.

[Zim]

Ah, yeah mine reads speed accurately on both the analog and digital gauge, even when PP is engaged it will read speed. It'll show the speed set point, highlight the actual speed, randomly tell you W or ask for more throttle even if you're above the set point. It's very annoying. Doesn't work on rpm mode either, although it may be more consistent? It was set for 3000 RPM and stayed level at 3000 when we were heading in, but once it was set for over 3000 rpm it wouldn't move to it and just stayed at 3000.

As for the wheel I think it's okay since it reads speed accurately on both gauges. Only thing that makes sense to me is a communications error from the throttle to the engine (when PP is engaged) or PP is having a communications error with the throttle, ECU or computer, which ever allows PP to control the engine, since it will work fine with PP off. It's like PP is intermittently instructing to speed up or slow down


Have you actually looked at the paddle wheel and verified none of the paddles are broken or missing? Start with the easy least expensive stuff. Computer issue doesn't sound like the culprit. If it's a signal issue, it could actually be the triducer that sends the signal, which you can test for with a multimeter. Wires are all color coded, so you should be able to identify which is which going into that 32 pin connector when you verify the color of the wires at the sending unit/triducer.

[Zim]

Here's a diagram that shows the wires coming off the paddle wheel triducer

http://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/PaddleWheelTest.jpg

That's how you test it. Confirm that's good first.

[sailnaked6842]

Thanks for the diagram, I'll check it out but always assumed it was good to go since the speed was always accurate and never varying wildly

[sailnaked6842]

So, finally had an opportunity to check the paddle wheel last night but ran into a road block...where is the plug that exits the triducer? There was some zip ties under the deck near the triducer and no 4 wire plug I could find under the dash with the wire colors it called for. Also only looks like 1 wire exiting the triducer, but it could be bundled. Tried to open it but it's all epoxied in as well so getting the colors/tracer was nearly impossible without cutting the wire exiting.

[Zim]

So, finally had an opportunity to check the paddle wheel last night but ran into a road block...where is the plug that exits the triducer? There was some zip ties under the deck near the triducer and no 4 wire plug I could find under the dash with the wire colors it called for. Also only looks like 1 wire exiting the triducer, but it could be bundled. Tried to open it but it's all epoxied in as well so getting the colors/tracer was nearly impossible without cutting the wire exiting.

On my boat (20v) if you pull up the rear seat that covers the V-drive, the triducer should be offset to the port side right around that area. The wire coming off of it is bundled. Follow that and you may have to pull the wire out from under the flooring a little to find the connector. There should be a connector there down by the v-drive area though. It won't be up behind the dash, it will be maybe 2 feet or so off the triducer.

Also, I was recently having PP problems (as of last weekend), where my PP would indicate that my RPM's were much different than the analog gauge, and would never engage. Called PP, and they told me to unplug the paddle wheel connector at the brain box of PP (you don't have this since the software is integrated i believe). The rep said that a bad triducer can send high frequency noise that messes with the way PP works. It could just be that your paddle wheel assembly is bad as well, causing this noise, and causing the same type of issue I was having. If you can find that plug, unplug it and go try running in RPM mode with your boat, and see if you have any engagement or surging issues. These triducers definitely go bad though, and if it is bad, take a look at this (I'm buying one of these also).

It replaces the paddlewheel with a GPS unit. Instead of your computer receiving a speed signal from the paddle wheel, this replicates it using a GPS signal rather than that innacurate paddle wheel. Direct plug and play replacement. May be worth looking into if you test and find the paddle wheel signal isn't consistent.
http://nauticlaugic.com/nl4-sr%20packages.html

[tg0824SSVGG]

Thanks for that Zim! I had asked PP about going GPS - but they said I would have to buy a whole new unit, since the brains are in the software.

Buying this is MUCH cheaper than a new triducer. I would try this next time. You still need the triducer for water temp.

Do we know this works with the medallion software (and not the normal PP separate unit)?

[Zim]

Thanks for that Zim! I had asked PP about going GPS - but they said I would have to buy a whole new unit, since the brains are in the software.

Buying this is MUCH cheaper than a new triducer. I would try this next time. You still need the triducer for water temp.

Do we know this works with the medallion software (and not the normal PP separate unit)?

Yes, it's been confirmed it works on other sites. They have two separate versions... up to 2006, and 2007+ (when medallion software was integrated). Works regardless of which version you have. You still keep the triducer for the water temp portion. My boat doesn't have that on the gauge so its not important to me. There's a separate plug on the nauti-logic unit that plugs in to keep the water temp function. Works just like a paddle wheel, just running off GPS.

[sailnaked6842]

Alright, unfortunately work has been taking over my life for the last few weeks so I haven't been able to take a look at it so haven't had time to look at the transducer again.

As for the Nautic Logic, this industry has been waiting a long time for a product like this. It's going on the upgrade list...even quicker if this transducer is bad. Is the only way to check for the high frequency signal to disconnect the paddlewheel and run in RPM mode or do you know if there's a way to check with a multimeter?

[Zim]

Alright, unfortunately work has been taking over my life for the last few weeks so I haven't been able to take a look at it so haven't had time to look at the transducer again.

As for the Nautic Logic, this industry has been waiting a long time for a product like this. It's going on the upgrade list...even quicker if this transducer is bad. Is the only way to check for the high frequency signal to disconnect the paddlewheel and run in RPM mode or do you know if there's a way to check with a multimeter?

With the instructions that I posted earlier, you should be able to get an idea if the paddle wheel is bad based on the voltage signal it's sending with the multimeter... You might try calling PP and asking them if there's another way to test it, or what other indications might be. You can still just unplug the paddle wheel connector that I was talking about that should be by your v-drive, and it would do the same thing as disconnecting the paddle wheel at the brain box. The only difference for you is you're also going to lose your water temp signal, but no biggie for testing purposes.

For what it's worth, I unplugged my paddle wheel and everything worked perfectly all last weekend in RPM mode, so I know mine is bad. Nauti Logic will be added soon. It's worth a shot.

[Zim]

Any updates OP?

[pridekit]

I purchased the nautic-logic device a month ago. Super quick install, unfortunately it didn't solve my problem (no speed on gauge or PP). I went about troubleshooting things the wrong way, as in not at all. I just went straight for the replacement. I have been in contact off and on with nautic-logic trying to determine what the problem could be, I couldn't be happier with their support. I have to double check that their device is getting power (which is one gripe I have with them, there's no power indicator on the "black box" portion, just in the GPS antenna that could be bad).

I'm hoping to get their device working this weekend (if it's a problem with the wiring in my boat as we expect). I chose to replace my triducer with a standard transducer (with water temp), I wanted this so it would work with my lowrance chartplotter/depth finder. The nautic-logic device plugged right inline with the wiring harness, and allegedly does not have to be connected to the old triducer to work.

The only other issue I had with the product was the cable length could be another foot longer for the 21v, I couldn't mount it exactly where I wanted.

[pridekit]

Just an update. I was able to get the nautic-logic device powered up after finding a corroded wire in my triducer cable. Sadly, there are more electrical issues in my boats wiring (no signal to the PP/Speedo)

[sailnaked6842]

Sorry about the wait, Google saved the password to this site on the work computer so I can only update M-F 8 to 5 until it's reset....But recently ordered the NauticLogic unit and I am currently installing it. The benefits of having it were just to great. But as far as getting it going there's actually a lot to installing it on the 24. So far it has required removing the floorboard to access the paddlewheel connector, then another hour or 2 attempting to fish wires from different locations to get the box towards the front of the boat. I didn't test the paddlewheel because the last time it went out there was a small problem that the speedo registered an odd speed for a second, so most likely it was dead. Should be finished with this tonight though and I'll have a little write up about how to install it since it requires a lot of trial and error. I'd say it's about a 6 beer install if you run the box up to the captain area.

Pride, yikes! How did you install it if you don't mind me asking, since you say it went in pretty easy. Also good luck with the electrical, hopefully it works out to be something simple.

[pridekit]

I pulled the 2 floor panels up (mine are fairly easy to pull up with a small amount of force), then took out the "kick" panel under the dash. This exposed all but about 3 feet of the run. The wiring harness runs over the gas tank diagonally until it reaches the 3 foot cavity. I pushed a fish stick into the cavity, looked in the opening that was exposed after the kick panel was removed (this opening has the wiring harness coming out of it), and pulled the fish stick up. I taped the nautic-logic plugs to the end of the stick that was under the dash, and pulled it through the cavity. Pulling through the cavity was the hardest part, just be gentle so you don't catch any wires (It took 5-10 minutes because I got hung up on a looped wire, I little twist and jiggle of the stick helped move it along). Once I had the wire on the other side of the cavity, it was just a matter of pulling it down to the triducer area and laying it down next to the wiring harness going along the top of the gas tank. Find your triducer, and follow the black wire coming out, it will go to an 8 pin gray plug that connects to a gray wire. Unplug the triducer and plugin the nautic-logic in line (one plug for the nautic-logic will fit the triducer, the other plug will fit the gray wire going to the dash). That's it for the basic install.

I took a little longer making the install look neat with tie-wraps, mounting, etc. I think my total time for installing was 2 hours.

I wish I was closer to my boat, I would take some pictures for you. Add some pictures here and I can try to help you.

As for my electrical issues:

I found that the ground in the supra triducer harness had literally corroded away at the triducer end. I could see nub of a bare wire and nothing it connected too. Under the dash I found the bare wire was the ground (this is the ground that the nautic-logic device uses). I was no longer using the triducer and had actually removed it from my boat (replaced it with a transducer that works with my Lowrance chartplotter/depth finder). I took the ground for the depth finder portion (the black wire in the supra harness), and moved the pin to where the bare wire was (pin 7 to pin 1 I believe), this resolved my grounding and ultimately my power issue. I still need to look at the signal wire issue, which is likely a broken wire or plugged into the wrong plug under the dash (I'm still baffled as to why there is a set of gauge plugs for a second engine under my dash).

I sent an email last night to nautic-logic and received a response before I woke up this morning. If you have any questions or problems at all, contact nautic-logic via email or phone. They have been incredibly helpful through this process.

[sailnaked6842]

Wow, I must be slow haha I did a similar thing except only removed one floor board, zip tied the wires along the way back, wire strapped the wire out of the way of the center ballast and ran it under the dash behind the kick panel. All said and done it probably took 5 hours but a lot of it was figuring out where/how to run the wires...with a little bit of debating how much removing something was going to suck. Granted I should have thought a little more about it since I started at the plug and worked back to the dash so I'd run some wire, then get hung up, take stuff out, stand around wondering if that was the best way to do it, so on and so forth. But finally got it back on. Worst part was hands down the kick panel because it's got a subwoofer the previous owner installed that could not get any larger. It was a mess.

As for those electrical issues? Wow, that's rough, the electronics are great when they work right...but when something like this happens it can take forever. Good luck, keep us informed

[pridekit]

I don't have a sub in that panel, fortunately (I've taken it out a fair bit more than I would like to think about). I was already looking into an issue with my fuel sensor/gauge (ended up being my poor memory when I was fixing some loose wires in the tach, I unplugged all of the gauges and got the depth and fuel backwards, make sure you mark them!) so I already had the panels pulled up :)

I definitely will, I'm hoping to have it figured out before labor day. I'm very tempted to spend a weekend (or several) mapping (and checking) all of the wires in the boat so I can create a wiring diagram.

[pridekit]

Just a quick update, I think I got my wiring sorted out. Other than the grounding issue in the Supra harness, I found that my speedometer was not hooked into the correct plug on the harness. To make a long story short, I checked all of the plugs from the triducer harness. There is a 3 wire plug with a green wire, this is the speed/paddle wheel signal that needs to go to the speedo, a 2 wire with black and blue which is depth (mine didn't actually have a plug, but the wiring "job" didn't look factory on that), and a 2 wire plug with white and brown that I believe supplies power to the perfect pass (not 100% on this any more).

On the speedo there should be a plug coming out that has a green wire on it, the 3 wire plug from the triducer harness goes here. I forget now, but there was another 3 wire plug that went into the main wiring harness from the looks of it and that plugged in further down the line. eventually there was a 4 wire plug that connected to the perfect pass. For the most part, I just had to match the colors up. I will really get to test this device out this weekend :) Also, if I have a chance I will get some pictures of the wiring harness mess.

[sailnaked6842]

I'm assuming Medallion doesn't manufacture the gauges for your year? When I was first doing the diagnoses I called up Medallion and got all the wiring diagrams. Is that the second set of wires in the wrong harness, pride? Haha But, if I remember right your gauges were analog? Which, if that's the case, I think the Perfect Pass power wire will be purple since that's typically the marine standard color for power. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you, that's a lot of wiring, but it's good to hear it's coming together. I'm surprised the connections aren't poke-yoked to prevent someone from sticking the wrong connectors together

[pridekit]

They are analog Beede gauges, which I fairly familiar with from my old boat (I replaced my 87 Invader analog gauges with new Faria analog gauges). The power going to all of the gauges is purple, and you are right, the perfect pass power was purple. I just remember their being a brown and white wire going to the perfect pass, can't remember what it's for though. I'll snap a couple of pics if I can this evening when I throw the battery charger on.

The wiring under the dash is a cluster**** to say the least. Especially when you can't get wiring diagrams to help explain anything (not even for the accessory switches).

[Zim]

They are analog Beede gauges, which I fairly familiar with from my old boat (I replaced my 87 Invader analog gauges with new Faria analog gauges). The power going to all of the gauges is purple, and you are right, the perfect pass power was purple. I just remember their being a brown and white wire going to the perfect pass, can't remember what it's for though. I'll snap a couple of pics if I can this evening when I throw the battery charger on.

The wiring under the dash is a cluster**** to say the least. Especially when you can't get wiring diagrams to help explain anything (not even for the accessory switches).


I THINK this is a diagram for our speedometers if you have the Beede gauges with posts on them. Does this look familiar?

http://www.beede.com/Techdocs/546773.pdf


This one may be for 2007+. Can't confirm that though. http://www.beede.com/Techdocs/547481.pdf

[pridekit]

That's the right one for 2006 (http://www.beede.com/Techdocs/546773.pdf), that's actually what kind of helped me trace the wiring. I didn't have a chance to take a picture last night, but I will definitely get some pictures soon. Their diagram uses different colors from the supra harness.

Winter project is to map all of these wires, hopefully with the appropriate voltage/what they are for. I have a feeling that will involve a lot of beers :P

[pridekit]

Well the good news is that the Nautic-Logic device worked great, the bad news is that I lost my alternator belt and overheated this weekend :(

[sailnaked6842]

What?! No way, how hot did you get? Belt break or just fall off? This sounds like a hard year with electrical components

[pridekit]

The gauge was pegged, probably for a few minutes. Not sure exactly how long though. The belt broke, I over tightened the alternator belt a few weeks back when I replaced the alt.

It's been tough, but definitely learned a lot about this boat :P


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sailnaked6842]

Ouch, will it start at least?

[pridekit]

Yeah, it sounds fine when it runs but it's putting out white smoke when it warms up. I'm also consuming oil relatively fast from the looks of it. 2 cylinders have 0 compression, and all the plugs have a black powder on them. Going to try to get to the head off on the bad side this weekend.


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[sailnaked6842]

So just a heads up I was able to get the boat on the water this past weekend and it appears that the Nautic Logic system has not fixed the problem with PP. Might be the computer issue I had originally thought, but the GPS system integrates seamlessly into the system.

[pridekit]

So PP seems to be reporting the right speed, just doesn't engage? Have you tried using rpm mode? There's a dbw PP for sale on eBay that I've been eyeing, but I think I have bigger fish to fry at the moment :P


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[sailnaked6842]

Haha, sounded like those fish were already fried? Couldn't resist, sorry.... But...that is correct, it reads the correct speed on the analog and digital speedo as well as reading the correct speed when PP is engaged, it just simply will not take over, which is continuing to lead to a problem at the computer...

[pridekit]

Take a look at this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262028729551?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Just unplug the mastercraft harness and it should be plug and play with yours.

[sailnaked6842]

Unfortunately my DBW system is integrated into the computer so it doesn't have the module (actually, only 90% positive this is the case as I write this that there is no master module) but forgot to mention the very strange part where it will not even go with the PP engaged. With the p/w system you'd try and take off and it would rev up and then back down, then rev up and back down, which if you stuck at it long enough would get you up to speed. With the GPS system no matter how far forward you push the throttle it'll just idle you around...so maybe this is becoming a case of one step back and two steps forward.

Also tried the RPM mode and it kind of holds it? Hard to describe...but if you adjust the rpm's up or down it just stays at the original value so I doubt it's actually working.

[pridekit]

Yeah, that is making me think the software is bugging out. Check around for that master module, mine is under the dash on the port side. It's possible that it is all integrated. I was looking at the pin-out on the MEFI 5 ECM (I want to add a check engine light and possibly overheat alarm), and it has pins for cruise control. I haven't looked to deeply into how it works though.

[sailnaked6842]

Yeah, I found the MDC http://www.marinesurplusinc.com/skiers-choice-supra-boats-medallion-minimmdc-boat-gauge-module/ holy shit did I luck out on this if it's actually plug and go rather than plug and hook up to a laptop to download software updates. Also it doesn't have the pins for cruise control, just a large 36 pin connector with a giant bundle of wires.

As for an overheat alarm take a look at the Rapid Response Overheat Alarm. I won't spoil it for you but I'll tell you it's a pretty sweet overheat alarm and fairly priced.

[pridekit]

I'll check out the rapid response. Not sure if this is of any help, but here is the manual for the 2007/08 moombas and perfect pass DBW system :/

http://perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass%20-%20Copy/images/troubleshooting/TroubleMoomba2007-2008.pdf

[pridekit]

Any luck with the MDC box?

[sailnaked6842]

Actually haven't purchased it yet...it's getting pretty cold in Michigan so kinda forgot about that in favor of doing A LOT gel coat repairs. Bought the boat from a shoddy dealer 8 hours away and they tried to patch up a lot of towing nicks and scratches which has been very sanding intensive. Didn't see how many there were til it got the once over at home, ya know?. But I'll quit procrastinating and purchase one to see what happens.