1989 Supra TS6M Pro Comp. Rebuild

[codemonkey82]

For the next two weeks I am on vacation and have decided to dedicated the time to rebuilding my comp. I've got a few questions, lot's of pictures and a few gotcha's I found a long the way that I'll be posting...

[codemonkey82]

The cap was split on Sunday and ready to head to head out to central Texas where I will be working on the rebuilt.161281612916130

[codemonkey82]

I had some trouble finding where the decking line was in the front of the boat. The gap between the walls and the deck gets larger the further forward you go. I used a dremel saw set to a depth of just under 1/4 inch. This allowed me to find the line and cut through the top layer of fiber glass without damaging the hull.16135161361613716138

[codemonkey82]

A big Thank You! to all the guys on this site and your knowledge/experience. Originally I was only going to do a partial stringer replacement but based on the comments earlier in the project I decided to go ahead and do a complete stringer rebuild while I had the cap off. I am very glad that I did! I would highly recommend anyone looking to replace the stringers on a comp. do a complete stringer replacement. I found that Supra decided they needed a drain hole under the plastic drivers side foot well; of course the best way to do that was to drill a hole at the bottom of the well, through the stringer and into the bilge area. To top this off it look like they did not do anything to try and seal around the hole that was cut. This looks like the source of the rot through the entire front right side. 1613916140161411614216143

[codemonkey82]

More pictures of rot in the front...161441614516146

[michael hunter]

Its a lot of work . Why did you start this in prime boating time. Was it not useable with the old stringers for the rest of the season. A couple places to get supplies US Composites for resin,glue and glass matting . Rot doctor for CPES [clear penetrating epoxy sealer].

[codemonkey82]

Okay guys, I need some input...

Do I need to strengthen the transom where the through bolts are for the swim platform? I am attaching a picture of what currently exists. I do not see any signs of stress fractures in the fiberglass or gel-coat...16159

[codemonkey82]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

[codemonkey82]

Okay, I've been working almost non-stop for the past few days and have quite a few new pictures of the tear down.1616016161161621616216163

[codemonkey82]

Just a few more pictures from today. I am about to start grinding/sanding the last of the fiberglass which I have decided is the worst part of this entire process!16164161651616616167

[codemonkey82]

Its a lot of work . Why did you start this in prime boating time. Was it not useable with the old stringers for the rest of the season. A couple places to get supplies US Composites for resin,glue and glass matting . Rot doctor for CPES [clear penetrating epoxy sealer].

Unfortunately Michael the stringers were rotten to the point the engine mount lags were ripping out of the main stringers and the floor board was giving in. The boat was also given to me by a family member who had already removed one of the stringers. I have two weeks off of work and decided that now was the best time to get a good start on this project.

[codemonkey82]

Let the fiberglass grinding/sanding begin.16168161691617016171

[cadunkle]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

As someone currently resealing platform brackets, I would reseal everything below the water line if I was doing a stringer job and it was all easily accessible. I'm using 4200 on my platform brackets in case they need to come off at some point if they leak again. I used 5200 for my perfect pass paddlewheel as I figure that shouldn't ever need to come off.

[flipz96]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

I would change out the lower transom boards while you are at it. It shouldn't take long to get them out. Mine didn't seem that bad, covered up. Luckily I dug it out because water was definitely soaking my transom boards. I would reseal everything with at least 4200.

[codemonkey82]

Thank you cadunkle

flipz, what is the easiest way to dig out the lower transom boards?

[codemonkey82]

When I put the swim platform bolts back in along with any other 'thru-hull/thru-transom' bolts do I just put 5200 or 4200 on the threads and around the washer and bolt heads?

[flipz96]

Thank you cadunkle

flipz, what is the easiest way to dig out the lower transom boards?

I used a diamond cutoff tool to cut it out and a crow bar to get behind it. Make sure to use a board behind the bar to avoid damaging the glass when prying.

[codemonkey82]

Okay guys, sorry for all the questions this is my first rebuild and I want to make sure I get it right. I pulled the thru-transom bolts (swim platform, ski-hook, tow bolts) and it looks like the steel (maybe aluminum) plates were sealed with a white silicon (the silicon was beginning to peel loose) and the bolts were also coated with silicon and it looks like the silicon was disintegrating. I am planning on using 5200 to secure the plates and possibly even fiber glassing around the edges. My question is what should I use to coat the bolts? It seems like silicon will just begin to pull loose or disintegrate after a certain period of time. 16175

[codemonkey82]

1. Looking at the transom boards it seems that one board runs the full length of the transom and then additional boards are applied behind the areas where any thru-transom bolts exist (swim platform, ski-hook, tow bolts). Am I looking at this correctly? 16178161791617716178

2. I am looking at the thru-transom exhaust ports and I see what looks like wood. From what I can tell the wood is not rotten and is in good shape but was only coated with what looks like silicon. I was thinking about just applying resin before I replace the exhaust ports and then gel-coating around them once they are screwed in place.16176

flipz, do you have any pictures from when you removed the transom boards?

[wotan2525]

I also need to know if I should remove all thru-hull and thru-transom bolts and reseal with 5200 or is it a 'if it ain't leaking don't touch it' kind of a thing? The goal of this rebuild is to never have to tear this far into this boat again.

I would. Those backing blocks look like they've been done by a previous owner and look to be untreated wood? You'll want to use plastic or aluminum plates so that you don't need to worry about them again. I'd use nylick nuts and 4200 (5200 is PERMANENT!)

[flipz96]

I just used a diamond cutting tool to cut around and a crow bar to pry it out.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/E1BC8EF3-0DCA-4FB2-BB2A-A22E848F7E91_zpshfafs1ag.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/E1BC8EF3-0DCA-4FB2-BB2A-A22E848F7E91_zpshfafs1ag.jpg.html)

The coring around the exhaust ports were solid so I left them alone.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A3200CE3-B183-4AD5-BD06-7FD6ABB4E138_zpscvkwbqoz.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A3200CE3-B183-4AD5-BD06-7FD6ABB4E138_zpscvkwbqoz.jpg.html)

I used coosa board at coring material. Its closed cell foam laced with glass fibers. I believe mine was 1-1/2" thick. If I can go back, I would go thinner because my tank is really tight. If you do end up using wood, I would suggest that you drill holes in it and resin coat it really soak it. I would also embed it in csm and "peanut butter" to make sure you have good contact to help distribute any load.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww223/flipz1996/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/C71324F6-9FF2-4414-B25F-FE7257A063BE_zpsvay5ihdd.jpg (http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/C71324F6-9FF2-4414-B25F-FE7257A063BE_zpsvay5ihdd.jpg.html)

[codemonkey82]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures and input flipz.

[codemonkey82]

Okay guys need a little more input. I have been working hard this spring to get this boat ready to go. I've glassed in the support boards on the transom. What you see in the pictures is one layer of 8 oz cloth. How many layers should I used? Is one layer enough? I have plenty of cloth to do as many layers as needed.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/d9797b587767418687f6b6ae878bf6b0.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/e4c671cef90b11a1890f85ad8b51bc3e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/e26bdb349b42ab2becb1e3c51d634c0e.jpg

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[gnarlydude]

Looking good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jwwalk]

codemonkey82, can you tell me how the rear blower look (maybe you still have the cap off)? I need to purchase new vents for my boat and there are a few styles. One is completely flat with no flange on the back to insert into a pipe or hose and the other has a flange to insert into a hose.

[codemonkey82]

codemonkey82, can you tell me how the rear blower look (maybe you still have the cap off)? I need to purchase new vents for my boat and there are a few styles. One is completely flat with no flange on the back to insert into a pipe or hose and the other has a flange to insert into a hose.
I have pictures of that. I'll upload a few when I get home this evening.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[codemonkey82]

I apologize for the delay in getting back with you on this. I had problems locating my old pictures of the original exhaust/blower design. I am including a link to images from flipz rebuild. He has a great picture of what you are asking for. My setup was very similar. I will definitely be redesigning this. I also had a blower in the engine bay which I am including a picture of as well. The exhaust hose was the black "dryer (like) hose" you see in the pictures. It ran all over the place. I have four black (flat) vents on the back of the cap that the ehaxust hoses ran to. I'll get a picture of those this evening.

http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A3200CE3-B183-4AD5-BD06-7FD6ABB4E138_zpscvkwbqoz.jpg.html


Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[codemonkey82]

I apologize for the delay in getting back with you on this. I had problems locating my old pictures of the original exhaust/blower design. I am including a link to images from flipz rebuild. He has a great picture of what you are asking for. My setup was very similar. I will definitely be redesigning this. I also had a blower in the engine bay which I am including a picture of as well. The exhaust hose was the black "dryer (like) hose" you see in the pictures. It ran all over the place. I have four black (flat) vents on the back of the cap that the ehaxust hoses ran to. I'll get a picture of those this evening.

http://s722.photobucket.com/user/flipz1996/media/88%20Supra%20Mariah%20Stringer%20and%20Floor%20Res tore/A3200CE3-B183-4AD5-BD06-7FD6ABB4E138_zpscvkwbqoz.jpg.html


Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160523/6918ec4c22f46eef80e4a8af1b49121d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160523/d0d0deeaf257555cb7f42f42a971c561.jpg

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[codemonkey82]

Anyone know where I can find the original driver seat floor pan (plastic) and the plastic 'edge piece' that covers the screws and rivers where the cap and hull meet?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk