Removing platform brackets - tips?

[cadunkle]

'89 Saltare with the removable platform brackets. Center bracket is leaking and slightly loose/cracked sealant after removing the platform so I got some 4200 and attempting to remove, clean, and reseal all three brackets. I got teh two screws in teh center bracket to move a little in either direction, and can loosen the lower screw in the port bracket. The other three won't budge. I'm doing heat and penetrant cycles trying to work them all loose but already broke one screwdriver and am starting to chew up the screw heads. Not going crazy with heat as I'm a little nervous with the tank right there and don't want to heat the glass/gel/wood too much.

Any advice for getting these off? Tips on resealing? 4200 all between the bracket and trasom... Is that sufficient or should I be putting that or something else on the scrwe/hole/threads/tapered part? Probably need some new screws when this is done, anyone know size or source? Doubt local hardware store will have large stainless with a countersink heat like these. Thinking a hex or torx head would be a better choice than flat head.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/cadunkle/Supra%20Saltare/20150725_135902.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/cadunkle/Supra%20Saltare/20150725_135921.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/cadunkle/Supra%20Saltare/20150725_135829.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/cadunkle/Supra%20Saltare/20150725_135627.jpg

Anything else I should do while I have the rear storage out and opened up?

[cadunkle]

Got the outer brackets out by using a bit more heat. Port still held but was questionable. Starboard was on there pretty good. Center of course was loose with no effective seal.

The center broke the stainless threaded block off the transom. Looks like it had some sort of adhesive on the back and two screws barely biting into the wood of the transom. Don't have very good access unless I pull the tank and enlarge the hole in the floor. If I did that I could use 5200 or epoxy on it and slightly longer screws above and below the bolt instead of to the sides to get into fresh wood. Debating just holding the block with a wrench and tightening it down with a little sealant between the block and transom. Alternatively I could make a backing plate out of flat steel that covers both bolts so it wouldn't rotate and just weld a nut on the back. Any other options? Thoughts?

Bolts are 3/8"-16 2.5" long with flat heads and countersunk. Will try to find local if not I'll have to order online. I may coat inside the holes with epoxy for added protection. Outer holes seem dry, center are a bit wet since boat has been in the water for 3 weeks with a leak through them. I'm looking forward to a dry bilge.

[cadunkle]

No luck finding the bolts at any local stores that were open today. Ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X2V7V5G Hope they're correct.

Need to replace the wood the piano hinge for the rear locker bolts to as well as clean up the transom and repair the lower center threaded backing plate so that should occupy me for a bit.

[cadunkle]

Replaced the rear hatch wood at piano hinge with a 1x2. Slightly smaller than the original which measured 1"x1.75" but I think it'll fit fine.

Any tips on sealing the platform brackets and pitots would be appreciated. I'll probably do that tomorrow night.

[flipz96]

I would trace and center punch the the brackets and pitots in place, predrill to length slightly shorter (maybe 1/16") than the screw, drill using a little larger drill bit to try make enough room for the countersunk screw (to prevent gel coat from cracking), mask off with painters tape slightly larger than traced edge (maybe 1/4" to 1/2"), use 4200, create fillet, remove excess, and then remove tape. Because of the position of application, this stuff will drip. Make sure you tape off to the bottom of transom.

[wotan2525]

This is why you don't use 5200. Previous owners will hate you for removable parts. The only real advantage to 5200 is that it resists salt water much more than 4200. I doubt that matters for our boats and the 4200 is designed to come off if it ever needs to.

I drilled out to one size larger, used a liberal amount of 4200 on the bolts and brackets and used some large SS fender washers on the inside of my transom with nylock nuts. I did have to cut holes below the gas tank for access. Fingers crossed it should never leak again.

[flipz96]

I wrote that on the fly.. The drill depth was intended for the pitot screws. The brackets need either a threaded backing plate or fender washers and nylock nuts.

[cadunkle]

Thanks for the tips. Got the outer two brackets on and the starboard pitot, which won't be used since I have Perfect Pass in place of that gauge. Plenty of 4200 so I expect these should be sealed up. Gonna do the center shortly once it dries from cleaning up the inside. I have a feeling I'll be tearing the transom apart this winter or next. When I tightened the port side bracket, cranking down pretty tight, some water dribbled out the holes for the speedo hose. Those screw holes were totally unsealed, just screws installed dry so water could weep in over the years. Stringers are solid at motor mounts, lags bite plenty good, but maybe I'll get a sheet of Coosa and do the transom and at least have that solid and out of the way.