84 supra rider Rudder troubles

[systems_mh]

My brother and I have found our selves working on this boat for the past few weeks my question is how hard is it to replace the wood and fiberglass where the rudder port is and is it worth it?

[systems_mh]

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[jasun]

looks like you might have hit something hard at one point. I Cant tell from the pic but it looks like your cracks under the boat are more then just gel coat stress cracks. The hull has the 5 holes in it: The big one for the rudder and the 4 for the bolts. The wood on the top side is just a backer and mounting point for the top of the rudder. Replacing it will not do anything for the bottom of the boat. If those cracks on the bottom are infact in the fiberglass, then you are going to need some Hull repair.

[systems_mh]

We were thinking having a 3/16 steel plate made to sandwich between the hull and the rudder port to sturdy it up so we don't rip it off for now

[Jetlink]

We were thinking having a 3/16 steel plate made to sandwich between the hull and the rudder port to sturdy it up so we don't rip it off for now

You can either fix it right, or fix it twice. Like Jasun said, those cracks in the underside of the hull need to be addressed first before you go creating fixes to other problems.

[systems_mh]

You can either fix it right, or fix it twice. Like Jasun said, those cracks in the underside of the hull need to be addressed first before you go creating fixes to other problems.

We are just trying to make it till winter then we are planing on fixing it right or as right as we can

[cadunkle]

No way I would run a boat like that without proper repair, if that's what you're asking. I'd imagine the fix should be doable in a weekend so all is not lost. In my knowing nothing about glass work I'd remove the rudder, cut out and remove the backing and evaluate what you have. Grind the cracks out over a larger area and lay new glass inside and out. Maybe fill with thickened resin outside if it's not too bad. Then gel over with a gel repair kit, shouldn't take a huge amount and doesn't have to look pretty or match perfect, just create a barrier to protect the glass.

I would be considering using a composite backing material such as Coosa or Starboard instead of plywood. It's pricey but maybe you can get a half sheet or something. Even with a full sheet you could use the rest for backing material on the transom or other areas when the time comes. One sheet of composite and DIY is way cheaper than paying a shop to fix it.

I wouldn't use a metal backing as I'd be concerned about creating additional stress cracks around the plate. I have heard of glassed in aluminum or stainless but I believe that amy be on the transom of some boats for lifting rings, and it is metal on top of wood. I would not use steel that is likely to rust. Either way, rudder is not an easy access repair so I would not be hacking it, hoping it doesn't sink, and doing it again later. Do it once and do it to last.